billpierce

pretty sure its a standard size. cant check. locktited mine in. hate hate hate these helmets. had a client rustle some out of his bits and bobs box when i lost one for the millionth tie on a job, so at a push a machine parts shop should be able to sort you out.

I'd say ideally you'd run through daw bench at get 1x1s ( or maybe 1x2s if lazy). I think the 4 '' contact on the wood would be detrimental to drying

I keep on tweaking and keep on thinking I have sorted it. Then seems to behave slightly differently again after 5 mins

Good to know they have sorted that issue. Did you take a look at the primer bulb? And difference to note?

chip in the eye is a constant issue for me. especially when carving. i try to wear those fly like mesh googles whenever i can, but you know, dust still gets in, https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjsuvji1cDhAhUYC2MBHfAICeAQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.safe-eyes.co.nz%2F%3Fattachment_id%3D104&psig=AOvVaw1e3iby17u6DK5yLtq4c-TK&ust=1554818856907219

If anyone is really really really bored you can watch this vid comparing standard 3/8p and 1/4 0.043 chain on my little makita. As you can see, not alot in it Edit: having used it on mixed diameter stuff it is very noticeable faster on sub 3" stuff and smoother. Also seems to let the battery run cooler and longer

Bet 4 keep you busy!

I'll get round to that one of these days. Thanks for the tip. Quite an annoying trait the constant weeping of oil

Chain oil is almost certainly leaking from the two pipes that "seal" onto the pump. Most of the ones I have had have done this. Replaced the pipes and pump still leaks. It has clearly seized in the past. I'd vac/pressure check it. Then Pull the pot, likely will clean up and be usable. pop a meteor piston on it could have seized from poor fuel, but suspect air leak from the behaviour you describe, which will need addressing. Enjoy!

I've always used 50:1 of good quality stroke oil (Jaso fd) never had a milling saw seize. They are perhaps tuned slightly rich I.e not right up to absolute max rpm out of the cut. A pal with a 3120 runs 40:1 in his. Also not had any bother. You will probably get a whole range of answers, I would er slightly on the side of caution as whatever saw your going to use will be run flat out for a extended period of time. But if your saws are issue free, tuned properly and you use a good 2 stroke oil you'll be reet

What ticket did you do? Was it an aerial bat survey one? Started to think about this recently

Literally change the primer or just that the models with the black primer have been upgraded in some other way?

I cant remember what it is in ft/lbs but mine had a sticker on saying what torque the bolts should be done up to. Its surprisingly low. Rough, I'm sure you mill has had a fair battering, I've broken quite a few if the wee bits that sit between the u bolt and the box section. On your replacement I would definitely suggest tightening them more evenly if you dont already do this, be interesting to see if this makes them last a bit longer. You should probably take up tig welding also

Seems your sorted now. My memory of sequoia is that it is very significantly heavier than youd think when green, and significantly lighter than you'd think when dry. An off cut once had that was about 4ft diameter by 5 or 6ft length hichnid guessed to weight about a ton ( legal load) absolutely flattened the springs on my pick up to the extent that even I removed it and went to get a ifor to bring it home.

Probably you are right. Seller does sell some other makita stuff though. We will see

Could be a scam but there are some genuine makita 5ah batteries on t Ebay for cheap if anyone is after some. 30quid for 2 . Seller says def genuine and happy to refund if not satisfied. Has good feedback so worth a punt https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163632591156

What sizes do you like again? Just milled a stem approx 18 to 22" diameter onto 2" boards.

Is what I was trying to say!

Dont tamper with it then. My guess is you'll have less bother from a saw the cat than a AT saw.

You tempted to just supplement you normal size logs with a few offcuts each time you load the fire and use them like that? Or add and arm full after lighting the fire to get it kicking th hea out asap then switch to normals?

@echo I would worry too much about the altitude thing. I realise this can have a small effect over a large altitude change. I live at over 1000ft and tune my saws at home and regularly work by the coast with no noticeable difference in performance. Your little echo may behave differently on cold days etc but if it starts idles and revs up ok and spark colour is good I expect you may be overly concerning yourself. Regarding a new AT saw, both 550 and 261 have had issues, these seem to ironed out now and there is a new mark (barry) 2 550 out now, which should be out now. Quite a few folk I know have issues with both the husky and stihl saws you mention, but alot of people love them and have had no problems.....so who knows? Are you set on buying new? If I lost all my saws and had to start again, I'd be looking very seriously at the echo/dolmar/makita offerings. Whilst decatting the dolmar/makitas/echos seems like a sensible idea, I haven't heard of alot of big issues with them when left in. Possibly you might have to clean it after a few years work. However less people run these saws so you may not hear of the issues as often. I have decatted all of the echoes, makita and dolmar saws I have. Partially because I cant help myself from fiddling with them, not because i thought they were being restricted by them. If you want to buy a new AT saw, I would go with whichever dealer seems the best service rather than which brand, as quite possibly you will have some issues. Even if this means having to spend a 10er to post it back to them in the event of a claim. I have never heard of a warranty claim being refused from not having receipts of regular dealer servicing, however perhaps a dealer on here an shed some light onto this.

Love these saws but it really bugs me that they dont just run like any other saw!

Go on then spill the beans howd you get it to idle while hanging without chain creep? You manage to get it to start without throttle?

Welcome to the club! Tuning these little echoes is an artform. I am fine on most saws but getting this one right is hard. I have recently revisited it, got much better starting ( not always having to hold the throttle) great response, no chain creep, but will only idle on a strip for 20seconds. Rob d has done a yootoobe video on how to tune them. It didnt really work with mine but may well with yours. I have you payed with the l or h screw? If not I would try returning the tick over to where it was and leaning the L screw 1/8 of a turn ( clockwise).

Yes it would reduce torque, but there are some good combinations. I have found that a stihl ms361 on a 9 pin .325 18" bar goes extremely well, with other saws I have found it can be amazing until the chain gets slightly slightly dull and then it works out a slower cut. Horses for courses