spudulike

Looks like he has sold it but hasn't worked out how to adjust the chain tension correctly:001_rolleyes:

Been working on two more MS200s -full refurbs plus a 357XP that needed a new cylinder, fortunately had a scrapper with a good cylinder. All is now good and all are running well. Had a KM55 in with a bad coil - tried aftermarket but it is backfiring like it has been on beans for a week:blushing: Checked the flywheel key and that is fine so all I can put it down to is the coil isnt right. I have noticed that most coils line up with the flywheel magnets at around TDC or circa 25deg before TDC, This unit has this happening well after tdc so expect the aftermarket coil is triggering after TDC causing the backfiring issue. Now have an OEM coil on order and hopefully this will sort the issue!

Wisewood was asking if the sprockets for the 201 and 200 were the same - you put up the 201 part and I put up the 200 showing they were different! Are you following now:lol:

Glad the 357XP is bopping along well, I like these saws - really fly and good AV!

The carbon will be build up generally on the surface of the exhaust port and this can get red hot and fly out of an unprotected exhaust. Not too much of a problem in the UK unless in a drought on tinder dry scrubland etc

Not had too much to do with Solo saws, no reason why they shouldn't respond to a bit of porting!

It will give you a bit more power, a lot more if it is blocked. For LOTS of power, porting and a muffler mod is the only real option but have to consider H&S of employees if they are using your kit!

Not all saws have them - the later 346XPs yes, not seen one on a MS460!

The first thing to look at is your budget - I always try to throw a reasonable amount of money at long term items as nothing is worse than having to buy twice due to the first attempt being cheap and NOT cheerful. A good used 357XP will be between £250 & 350, they are good saws, the weak points are the oiler pinnion taking the crank seal out and the inttake boot leaking - generally from bad fitting on a rebuild. The EPA decomp if still fitted, should be removed, the lower hole plugged and a standard decomp fitted - just done another one:thumbup: As others have said, they can be well used so you are faced with a cheap one £70-100 and then rebuilding it or splashing out a decent sum of money. If purchasing secondhand, check the pot and piston are original - it will have a letter (A/B) on the plate next to the spark plug hole and if it is missing and the cylinder looks a bit silvery rather than grey then avoid. If you see a saw, take a small LED torch, remove the plug and look at the exhaust side of the bore with the piston out of the way, any signs of scoring/transfer - avoid. Hope this helps a little.

The most common sprocket for the MS200 is 6t 3/8th part code 1129 640 2000 Doesn't look good unless you have a big hammer:001_rolleyes:

Just take a tenners worth of wood off the pile:thumbup: Your sales technique is up to you, you know what margin you making, the sales person in me is to meet them half way as long as the logs are delivered in 24/48 hours! There are a lot of chancers out there but saying that, I always ask for cash discount but try to be polite and reasonable about it!

I think he should have asked if you were willing to come down on the price before travelling to yours - the world is full of chancers and nob ends. I will always haggle but am fair so if it is something that is obviously worth the money - why push too hard, everyone has to make a living. My ethic is that both parties should come away thinking a reasonable deal has been done and not one party is shagged to the limit of their life and the other has stolen the item. That is just bad business!

You boys are as sharp as a sharp thing this morning:001_rolleyes:

Sold the wifes on ebay, got it looking so nice, a guy said he would have it over the phone. Paid us full asking price and offered us petrol money as well - found ebay both cheap and effective! Just put yourself in the buyers position and make sure you advertise what they want to hear. Years MOT helps, road tax is a thing of the past but if it has had new parts tyres brakes service etc - just make it look good!

Most faults are fuel related, a long clean in an ultrasonic cleaner may help. Other than that, split fuel line, new carb kit, adjust the mixture screw(think there is only one). It may be your flywheel coil gap is a bit large, this can affect saws when hot. Reset using a piece on thin card, a business card is typical or something slightly thinner.

No idea on tractors but typical reasons are valve guides, valve seals, piston/bore wear, ring wear/failure, leakig gaskets or cracked head.

OOooohhhhh bugger, does the wife know:lol:

Lets face it, the average bloke on the street is a dumb-ass:lol:

The white plasic plug is the thing that stops the fuel flowing out if the tank is filled right up to the top. The saw will run without it but you may well get fuel leakage if the tank is over filled. The simplest thing to do is get some brake cleaner/carb cleaner or even WD40 over it and see if this helps. It may just have a good layer of crud over it and this has stopped the airflow. Other than that, pull it out and either clean it if OK or replace. You may be able to knock it out by pushing out the grey pipe inside the fuel tank but it can be more tricky. The classic way to fault find these sort of issues is to run the saw with the fuel tank cap slightly loose and see if this helps.The fuel tan will need to be half full and cut at an angle otherwise you will smell of Eau de Petrol:001_rolleyes: The 372 did have an updated breather, it may well fit the tank as both saws were pretty much identical.

Been working on some old Swedish steel, a 480CD, big ole saw with lots of go. It had nipped its piston so have fitted a new one, cleaned and lightly honed the bore to break the glaze, the pressure check and vacuum check were 100% so gave it a clean and set the carb. All is good so if anyone is looking for an old saw in damn good condition, look no further:thumbup:

The 335 was a bit like the earlier 201s in so much as you have to rev them hard before hitting the wood. Personally I like a saw to be able to pick up speed in the cut from mid range and the MS200 is my personal favourite, do some modifications and you can really lean on it and it will keep giving - parts are plentiful as well:thumbup:

You say you want to "cut up logs", is this commercially or just for your burner? If commercially then a new saw and the 560/550/261 would seem about right, if it is just for your own use, perhaps a decent 346/357/260 may be a better and cheaper option.

The early 024s had a fixed oiler - on all the time but the later ones had the oiler that only engages with the clutch spinning the drum. I believe there is a conversion kit for it!

So the ported saws came in handy:sneaky2: Would have been easier with the 088:thumbup: