spudulike

Unfortunately, I am an old fart like you Andy so YES, I can remember Risky Business.....and Top Gun:thumbup:

Seen smaller on boy racers Pugs:lol: Did your wife mind you taking the cast iron drainpipe off the side of the house:lol: We will probably hear it across the country:lol:

That inspires you with confidence:001_rolleyes: I will take it off their hands for a fiver:sneaky2:

Any rubber parts such as inlet manifold, impulse line (your machine has it built in to the manifold), crank seals, decomp valve, cylinder loose, carb loose and any mating gasket surface in the crankcase. Air leaks are genefally rare in newer machines, parts generally last 5-10 years before they start leaking unless someone has stuck a screwdriver through a manifold or there is a fault with the saws manufacturing.

That is a classic sign of an air leak but get it back to the dealer if under warranty.

Forget this load of men giving each other man hugs:001_rolleyes: I love ya Subby:lol: The HT lead can fracture and is worth putting a multimeter on the lowest ohms setting and measure the resistance between the HT cap where the plug connects and the kill wire, if it registers no reading then replace the HT lead. In my experience, HT can leap a decent size gap and even a poor connnection doesn't stop the HT working.

The only way of being sure is to fit a new flywheel. Try using a single sheet of newspaper to gap the coil and also give the saw a Heeeffftttyyyyyy pull on the recoil and look for the spark in a semi dafkened room - sometimes it isn't that obvious it is working. If you have disconnected the kill wire and the above doesn't work then the flywheel may be faulty. You could try the coil on a 066/044/046 etc

This all sounds like fighting talk, there is only one way to go.....handbags at dawn....No...No....wrong forum Timed cuts, same bit of wood, same saw, same bar different filters. Lets quantify the improvement, better do three big cookies on each set up and see what is what. My take on it is that if the filter allows more air through and if the engine can take more air, it will make an improvement. The air is drawn by the vacuum in the crankcase formed by the piston rising. The limiting factors are the shape of the inlet port, the size of the port, the inlet duration, the choke of the carb, restrictions in manifold sizes and finally.....the air filter. The engine can draw a FINITE amount of air due to the vacuum formed in the crankcase - I guess this is what Sawtroll was saying. Removing an air filter does make a difference - I have never cut like this but it does raise the revs significantly so it should have some sort of effect but until it is tested, we don't know by how much! This should be similar to fitting a larger carb to a machine.

That rise in revs before it dies sounds ike lack of fuel like a saw does when it runs out of fuel or too muh air from an air leak. The usual thing to do is strip and clean he carb plus check the fuel line, filter and tank breather. If all this is OK then pressure/vac test would be next on the cards. You need to sort this before any tuning work is completed on the saw.

Think it is time for two timed cuts now to see if it is worth it:thumbup1: Still £20........

I have helicoiled as adw mentioned, just need to swap the course plastic bolts for M5x0.8mm ones which are the typical threaded ones found on most saws. Sometimes you can fit longer bolts and get a nut on the other side of the plastic moulding but it makes subsequent removal a bit of a pain!

And it is king of noise to:thumbup:

As I was, the MS390 is sort of OK but not a 390XP thats for sure!

:lol:

Have you taken off the exhaust and looked at the piston to make sure there is no scoring present?

Slight mod to the Stihl 020AV, the owner wanted a connector to hook a strop on to as the original saw had none, the area he was suggesting was the fuel tank......drilling that wouldn't be good. The handle gave a good thick casting that has been drilled, tapped and then used stud lock and a nut on the internal side - should be good and strong:thumbup:

You lot have OCD:001_rolleyes:

Seem to remember the 372XP had a high rise kit on it:thumbup: That is a beast of a saw:thumbup1:

Model Profile: 75

looks like a Jonsered75 to me

Agree, 70cc saws are nicer on a 20" unless they have been enhanced:thumbup:

The simple way to tell what the air filter and the air injection system does is to tach a saw with the top cover on. tach it with the top cover off and then once more with the air filter off. See where the saw runs at the highest WOT revs and you have an answer. I have done this on an MS200T once and it pulled another 1krpm showing that the air filter does reduce airflow and significantly so. Having a larger airfilter will increase performance and will do more so when it has seen a few hours work when the smaller one would be fully clogged with chip and the larger one much less so. Porting and MMs are all about improving the flow of an engine, the airfilter is another part of the equation. Stubbys saw already has improved flow so reckon the airfilter mod should enhnce it some more!

The 372Xtorq and 365 Xtorq are the same saw but the 365 has slight restrictions in the transfer covers, buy the 365 and convert it when the warranty runs out. It is relatively simple:thumbup: Both are decen saws IMO!

This may help, I was comparing it to an antique piece of furniture if it went over some peoples heads:001_tt2:

In the early days I picked up a 254XP and the owner said it had good compression, got it home without checking, picked it up with the recoil pull and it fell to earth that fast I though the plug was out. Found out it only had 3/4 of the piston ring and the end of the piston skirt was missing! I pointed out to the seller that he had said he put it in the shed and then it wouldn't start and he wasn't very interested:sneaky2: A bad case of Caveat Emptor!