spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Yup, Rowena are the go to carb specialists. Hugo is da man and very helpful.
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No, net easy to fit and very easy to cock it up and at £12.50, easy to lose your money. Getting the old one out, pierce it with an awl at an acute angle ( protects damaging the cage) and lever it out. I clean the area, use plenty of oil, push it in as far as you can and tap it in to place with a suitable deep socket. I do use the factory guide to ease the seal around the inner race which makes it much easier. I guess I have done around 25 -35 on 550/560/562 and 346s in my time....so you can gauge the worth of my comments.
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There wasn't really too much wrong with the physical build, more the ignition timing, carburetion and exhaust design. There aren't too many issues now, the mufflers crack in the middle of the base but the rest of it seems pretty sorted now.
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That's Brad Snelling me old mucker👍
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The AT would try to keep the revs down and would succeed unless the air leak became too big for it to do this. If you get a CST read out from the AT, you will be able to look at what the carb is doing at high revs.
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Did the "good carb" have a different solenoid fitted or the same one,? If it isn't the solenoid, it is probably one of the wires broken or the sheath worn where they enter the saw from the handle.
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Yes, the first ones were absolute Shyte but the Mtronic ones are far better. The MS200 always benefits from a lot of grunt from low revs, the Mtronic MS201 doesn't have that but it does pull well once the revs are up....I know from porting both saws and doing timed cuts. It was close but the 200 still has it.
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Thanks for the update....I think. Yup, loose ends are never good but in your case.....😬 I hope you find a more reliable way to cut wood...perhaps a trained, tame woodworm👍 I would say beaver but on a Saturday night, this lot may get excited!!
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I think it may be Mendiplogs from his spelling...sorry Jon if you are reading.
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Follow the money, who and how would you pay the tax fee to. If it is the courier that is shipping the kit, chances your boy has fooked up..perhaps paid by PayPal and the authorised address was used? If the recipient of the payment is a bit suss, grey, unknown then don't pay. These days you get reams of notifications on delivery...from the seller and courier then review sites etc...what has your son got?
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"Virgin"...I guess it hasn't done any chopping yet🤔 Should be Virginia I would think.
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You must have a shipment number so that should tell you where it has come from. If the duty is paid directly to USP then I can't see how a scammer will get the funds, it is usually a dodgy link, false web site etc. If you don't pay it, the parcel will go back to the US. You could enquire who the sender is.
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Strange, the ferrous stuff that thin are bearing cages, small end cage, circlips and muffler/ baffles. Not sure what else it can be...any helicoils on the top end? I did once get a 346 in that had destroyed three top ends and found the big end cage was the offender. The owner had missed it completely.
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Try pulling the seals on the crank bearings first, they may tell a story although the flywheel side may not give you much of a view....not done many 61s...ADW would probably have a bit more experience on these. Looking at the bearing through the open part of of the crank lobes may also help but can't really see the metal being anything else than the main bearing cage. I had similar on MattyFs 560xp many years ago, one of the stuffers had disintegrated causing similar damage. I managed to grind the port damage out, a good friend machined a pop up and took the base of the cylinder down and it worked on for a few years before detonating.
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I have never found the need to pull welch plugs and my advice is not to as they are damn difficult to seal up correctly and permanently. I have had just a very few carbs that have gone bad and have not responded to a clean, carb kit, check valve, reseal of welch plugs or new accelerator pump. The 020t carb was one that would go temperamental with unstable idle and not respond to any normal fixes. It depends what the carb is off and what the issue is as to what action I took. Some have non serviceable accelerator pumps...the 357 springs to mind.
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Straight up the transfer port in to the combustion chamber👎
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Just open up the coil to flywheel gap, the ignition timing will be retarded ( if you can call it that nowadays) and the saw will be easier to start. Don't go too far as the spark will stop.
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Looks like the main bearing cage has failed to me. The big end hasn't overheated and that blackening on the lobes looks to me to be too much oil or overly rich running.
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Let us know how it goes, refurbishing the carb is always a good idea but don't ignore looking at the condition of the piston as it may have slightly seized causing your issues.
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Have you adjusted the carb settings yet, most carbs are set to 1 turn out on the H&L screws but try 1.5 turns and see if that helps. A carb kit may help but it may just be a blocked fuel filter, holed fuel line, blocked gauze strainer or just gunk in the carb. The 114 is an old saw, is the piston OK? Taking off the muffler and viewing the piston through the exhaust port will help. What is the compression like? 150psi + is best. Lots of things can cock up the idle but if the compression and piston looks OK, most issues are fuel system based.
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It is all OEM. You can get a decent bit out of these 350 saws, they are light, have decent AV and can come alive with a bit of work. The comment about 346s screaming but no grunt...been out with mine today and it goes like a train on N20. I don't agree on the 357...OK, mine isn't very standard, is almost impossible to pull over with the decomp being used and it flies but each to his own, personally, most 3 series Husqvarnas are pretty special.
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I have used them for around 12 years and can't fault them....perhaps we both should be on commission 👍
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Is that the fella or the saw🤔
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Care needed but you can helicoil them without stripping the engine but care with where the piston is, grease and stuffing the cylinder is all part of it as is using the compressor airline with the exhaust port only slightly open is all important.
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I have a Stovax Stockton 8 and noticed that the fire wouldn't shut down if you shut all the dampers and put it down to the stove meeting the latest regs. Not being able to gain full control of the stove bugged me so I set about working out where the air was getting in and traced it to the top damper so I made a plate to reduce the air entering the front of the top damper and got the stove working as I wanted it. I can now shut down the stove and subdued the burn as you should be able to do.
