spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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660s are pretty bullet proof. There is no history listed...has the machine been ported recently or has it been running for years and just started playing up? It could be seals gone but that takes time, a split inlet manifold or an impulse line come off? If ported recrntly, did the fella vac and pressure check the saw...I always did. Does it have one of those big bore kits on it? If so, it will be leaking from the base gasket. It is strange that it takes time to play up. Is the carb OEM?
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Neighbour's application to cut back my tpo'd tree
spudulike replied to LilyLangtree's topic in Trees and the Law
Neighbours can be complete knob ends and boundary issues will be bread and butter for solicitors however, they seem to advise stepping away nowadays. Perhaps get a land surveyor to go through the deeds and advise where the boundary should be. Bear in mind that the answer may not be what you want although Adverse Possession is always possible if you have had 12 years access to it and your neighbour has not. All this will need hostilities to cease and for the neighbour to listen....in my experience, good luck with that. -
Looks a bit beech like but am thinking Alder.
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Neighbour's application to cut back my tpo'd tree
spudulike replied to LilyLangtree's topic in Trees and the Law
Known as Adverse Possession but you would need to claim the land legally and get the deeds changed. It is made more difficult if the other landowner disputes the ownership. -
Stihl MS230 C - new carb issue - no connection for priming pipe!
spudulike replied to Millbert's topic in General chat
On the rebuild kit, you have a Walbro WT so you need a Walbro WT rebuild kit. Take the carb apart and check out the diaphragms against an image of the WT kit and they should be the same. The number generally indicates slight differences to jets and design etc and a generic WT kit should work. -
Probably down to the strato technology using less fuel so less oil that gives the 346 & 357 bearings and easier ride. Love my 346 and 357...the latter breaks your arm even with the decomp valve in...not very standard and the compression is a bit saucy👍
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The fibre vent is probably available from L&S. In my experience, the fibre ones can leak, especially if the rubber mushroom is old. The plastic breather on the insert ( the brass bit is a drift to knock in the insert union) do seal the tank well as they have an one way valve. The correct handle will need to be fitted as it has a cavity to allow for the height of the breather. The fibre insert will work with any handle.
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On the 020, the early ones came with a push in white fibre vent, the rubber mushroom sealing the tank, the fibre one acting as a filter. The assembly you show is the later breather with a one way valve which was replaced on the later MS200T models with a two way fuel pipe and tank breather hose. Yours must be an early model with the remains of a fibre filter.
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All I got was an image but recognized the model number. These electric trimmers don't too much thick grease or gummed up blades, too much load on ramp up.
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I had two 440 kits once, one Hyway and one Meteor, both had a badly formed inlet port in EXACTLY the same way hence my comment.
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My normal reaction would be tank vent, coil failure, coil gap too large and low compression. You have covered most of these bar the coil to flywheel gap. Try storing the saw in the shade after use as if the parts you have used are OEM and fitted correctly and the compression is good, the issue is most likely the heat expanding the fuel in the tank, forcing it past the carb needle valve so worth checking the diaphragm, needle valve and spring assembly.
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Sorry Andy....it is a new fangled battery thingy🙄😉 It could be an issue with the bearings in the cutter head or the blades binding a bit. Try a bit of lubrication.....for the machine, not you👍
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A decent 372xp will make 170psi cold if pulled over multiple times. A well used one will make 150+. If you drop the base gasket on one, expect around 185psi. No idea on your Meteor kit, I would have expected it to be 150+. I had a low compression reading on a 372 wearing a stone cutter 375 cylinder but that turned out to be due to the design of the combustion chamber on the larger cylinder. There isn't much that can go wrong, ring end gap, piston to bore fit, decomp valve. If the cylinder is dry then expect compression to increase dramatically once there is fuel oil mix around the ring and piston. I think the Meteor cylinders are rebranded Hyway cylinders.
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walbro WWW.ROWENACARBS.CO.UK I have used something called Google, not sure if it is mainstream yet🤔😉 Hugo is your man, very helpful.
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The chain link fence is most likely the original boundary if your house was built over the last 50 years or so. The deeds often state that a fence of this type will form the boundary. A very loose rule is that in a reasonable percentage of cases, the boundary owned by the house will be in the right facing the house but this isn't always the case but is most common. On the deeds, the "T" denotes ownership, "H" denotes a shared ownership. If the link fence matches up with the rear garden, this would also lean me to think it is the boundary. You can cut the hedge face, top and roots back on your side but if it dies or causes injury etc you may be found liable. Long and short, cut it back to a point where it will survive and grow back to form a green barrier. Neighbours can be dicks, use this period to "make hay" and get the hedge in to good order and use the link fence as a guide.
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A very old thread me old mucker, some decent guys posting many years before four guys thought Arbtalk was an online version of The Robert Preston Show!!
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The OP doesn't say how far from the house it is! Cut the top off, dig out the roots as far as possible and glyphosate the new growth. That will do it if it is repeated until completely gone.
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It is called adding patina....rust in this case👍
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That doesn't look good. I guess that is soil dust which will be pretty abrasive. You may get away with re-ringing it but I guess it needs pulling apart to see where the wear is.
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You could be burning oil from a leaking head gasket rather than bore wear, seems more likely at 200 hrs and the oil could be entering the bore from the oil ways up to the tappets and cam. The options are stripping and fitting the new gaskets or sticking in a Locin engine like the previous fella said then rebuild the thing over the winter as a nice little project.
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Check the compression or at least, pull the exhaust off and check the piston looks OK through the exhaust port. The 017 is old and a typical homeowner saw with both these things meaning the saw will have been abused and/or run on old or near fuel.
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Husky 560xp mk1. Vibration when in the cut.......?
spudulike replied to medroberts's topic in Chainsaws
Have you checked the bar rails are level and not splayed and the end sprocket is free running with no play? Is the rim drive in decent condition. Perhaps trying a new bar, chain and rim drive or at least one of another saw may give further info. Good luck getting the new seals back in, they are fiddly little feckers and bloody expensive. -
Try a bit of JB weld or any other high temperature epoxy. I did this on my Qualcast mower years ago and that is still going strong. I think I just used araldite on that. Clean both surfaces and degrease with brake cleaner.
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I had one once, got the thing going and it started to set fire to my lawn that was tinder dry and was due to the down firing exhaust pipe outlet. I believe I fitted a piston for another model saw in the thing as the original was toast. Anyway, it worked just fine.
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Kok all me old mucker...15k posts....who would have thought👍
