spudulike

TBH, I really don't know anymore and I have about as much a clue on this subject as on Quantum Mechanics.

You can't call it a "Black Art", it is now an Art of Colour unless it has changed again.

I do hate loose ends, It is a bit like watching 7 episodes of an Agatha Christie series and missing the last episode where all is revealed. Most unsatisfactory.

You're welcome.

I think the stamp says Brades Co Solid Steel. It is a "Kent" style head, the handle has a little worm in it and it looks like the handle could do with removing and a new wedge fitted. The top of the axe edge looks to have been dinged a bit then sharpened as it has lost its shape a bit and the back of the axe has been battered in its past but....nice little project to get it back in to shape. You could hang it the other way round as the eye is probably the same dimension through its complete length but check.

You either have a damaged clutch boss or the clutch is simply unwinding on the spool down and then wearing through the side cover because it isn't meshed correctly. Some say this is impossible but have viewed it first hand Can you do a clearer image of the clutch boss/centre - I had similar years ago and one very small part of this assembly was broken. Getting over the clutch spinning off - do it up well with a decent tool, you could add a little thread lock but go easy and/or rev the knackers off it with a bar and chain on it and slam on the chain break on a few times or cut a big lump of wood but don't rev the engine and let it spool down immediately after reassembling otherwise it will just happen again.

This may make them empty their bowels: - Alarm Mine WWW.HENRYKRANK.COM The Alarm Mine acts as a warning signal against unwanted intruders. 1 x Alarm Mine unit. 1 x Trip Wire 3 metres (10 feet). 2 x Wood Screws. 1 x Safety Pin with release. 1 x Instruction...

That looks like a large cordyline, we had one just like it and it flowered in a very similar way to that - it was around 20 years old and...they do get that big. The leaves are damn tough/fibrous and used to jam the mower and would think they may cause havoc to a chipper unless someone else knows different. As Stubby said, I also heard that palm sap can attack aluminium casings.

You could try putting up the issues on here and see where that leads but TBH, selling them one at a time after a good clean up will probably get you a reasonable amount on eBay but make sure they are sold as "Spare or Repair" otherwise you will get a load of trouble from the purchasers. Don't sell them as a job lot, it is a good way to get the least money possible. Getting the best money means selling each saw, boxing each one and sending them out to the UK....personally I wouldn't insure and the courier cost should be £8-12 - if it is any more than that, someone is ripping you off.

I usually open up the hole that you can't get to and also do a single "louvre" muffler mod. You basically cut a slot in to the part most people drill a hole in to do the muffler mod.....and burn a hole in the exhaust cover ...the flat part just below the bit you can't remove. Use a diamond disc cutter on a dremel/rotary tool and then open the slot to a louvre with a flat screwdriver so it points downwards. The mods I do follow on from the original design intent in having the exhaust heading downwards out of the machine rather than sideways burning the cover and your leg as in the drill method. Both mods work but one is "Engineered", the other is just simple and not particularly good.

Just fit a new part (No7), they are only a few quid. The pre mentioned methods are OK for a fix for a week until the part arrives. Switch Shaft for Stihl MS 261, MS 261 C Chainsaw - 1141 182 0920 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Switch Shaft Genuine Stihl Part OEM No. 1141 182 0920 Suitble for the Following Application's: MS 261, MS 261 C

Right, the two pairings on this saw are : - 1) Flywheel 1124 400 1210 (Polymer flywheel) and Coil 1124 400 1301 2) Flywheel 1124 400 1201 (Solid Metal Flywheel) Coil 1124 400 1302 It would seem like you have No 2 as above so you should have the 1302 coil and from you saying that it has two mounting screws, it would sound like it is the correct coil. Worth checking the part codes though. Firstly, learn what an Ohm is and how basic resistance works. The beeper on the average multimeter is measuring what electricians call continuity...that is pretty much zero to around 50 ohms. What you are measuring is the spur connection in your HT cap to the coil laminates or even the kill wire and that will be through the HT wire and then through a load of very thin copper wire windings so expect a reading of 1000 Ohms or more. This reading will need to be measured on the correct setting on your multimeter and if you get a reading, it means your spur and HT lead are correctly joined to the coil. I once had a MS461 with no spark and did this measurement and got an open circuit reading so took the HT lead off the coil and it was badly corroded. I cleaned this up and bingo, I got a spark and a running machine saving the owner £££. It happens. In your case, if the flywheel is good and the coil is good, you should get a spark especially if you have disconnected the kill circuit so the only components are the flywheel and the coil (gapped correctly) ....there is still the question of when the spark happens (ignition timing) but if the flywheel key is OK and the flywheel keyway is OK, it should be bob on.

So it doesn't have a small torx screw on the top like below? Every MS150 I have ever had in has had one.

Yeah, but the trouser legs are the perfect length against his shoes.

The engine is a bit strange in the fact the crankcase is split in to two halves but has a plastic cradle a bit like a clam shell type engine. The bearings and seals are a push fit in to the cases. It will be a good learning curve and it will be worth opening up the outlet hole under that muffler top cover. You will get a good increase especially if you go for the nylon air filter as well. A real simple mod, cheap and effective.

Pictures help but my personal experience....I planted one and diligently pruned it each year, the trunk must have been around 10" diameter and the "tree", no more than 12' when we moved home. The tree grew to at least 40' in around 4 years, the new owners cut the tree down and I had the wood for the burner. The long and short - prune hard each year and don't let it get out of control.

Pulling the bearings and working on the crank is like working on a sewing machine. everything is super small on these saws and typical bearing pullers etc are pretty useless on this tiny engine. The plus point is that the saw is relatively easy to take apart. The crankshaft should have no in and out movement as the bearings are a interference fit on the cank shaft unlike the MS200T. There should also be no up and down movement as the bearings are ball races. Don't confuse the sprocket movement as crank bearing movement.

Forking wet....and wet again....oh....and a bit more...wet again. Will it ever stop....oh.....NO

A few things to try: - 1) make sure the air filter is clean - replacing the flock paper one with the nylon one helps the saw. 2) make sure the muffler is clear of carbon. They can get pretty clagged up under the top cover held in place with the screw. Whilst the muffler is off, check the piston for scoring and the port for carbon. 3) On these saws, the flywheel runs pretty close to the plastic body and they tend to build up a fair bit of wood chip in this area and this can stop the saw idling. Just remove the recoil cover and clean with an old paint brush and compressor air line. Whilst in there - make sure the front engine mounts are OK - if the stop switch has stopped working, they are probably loose or knackered. They are located to the top and bottom of the clutch drum. See how that helps.

Isn't "Floki" and Ikea table in beech effect finish, ideal for any home

Strange...2 hrs use and this type of issue. These big saws need a lot of conviction on starting and best to get the piston close to TDC before giving it the full lunge, any sign of a limp start and it will kick like a mule....Stihl could have done a better job on the low revs ignition advance. On the coil to flywheel gap - set it to the very minimum gap and try testing for a spark then. This method can often get an intermittent coil of flywheel with poor magnets up and running again - worth a try although it may kick badly once the plug is back in. The HT cap spur to coil laminate resistance check will either show no continuity or, I think from memory, around 1.2K Ohms....don't expect it to be near zero!

Blimey, "broken wire" really I am guessing that your saw has the OEM poly flywheel? I once had a MS461 in with a similar issue and assumed the same as you...coil and it transpired that there was slight impact damage to the magnet and, this being a steel laminated type on the poly flywheel, had decided to lose most of its magnetism and as such, it didn't spark. You say you have fitted a new coil...my thinking is that it is extremely unlikely this is a bad new OEM part. The kickback you mention - I have had this on MS660s where the gap between the coil and flywheel has been too little. The reduced gap advances the ignition and my thinking is that your flywheel may have been too close to the flywheel and if it clattered it a bit, the flywheel may have failed during the period where you got kickback. Checking the continuity between the spur plug connector and the coil laminates proves the coil and HT cap are connected OK - I think you have done this. Closing the gap up between the magnet and coil can sometimes work on weak flywheel magnets - I have used typical printer paper before to set the gap just to get a decent spark - as I mentioned, this will advance the ignition and it may kick. If you remove the kill wire from the coil, you only have the coil and flywheel that can be wrong! The last thing - some saws need a bloody good tug to get a spark, the 660 is one of them and probably the 880 is the same so look for the spark in subdued light....they are often weak at low flywheel speed. My guess is the flywheel magnetism is shot...unless we are missing some info or some of your tests/assumptions are incorrect.

The gains always sound great but if you purchased in Nov 2021, you won't be feeling so chipper. Now if you purchased in Dec 2022...now may be a good time to sell.

Perhaps he wants someone to help him lift it out Do what I do...get the wife to help

It isn't a return spring for the chain brake guard is it? Does the guard flop to and forth now? The brake guard was pretty crap anyway and don't see it saving you in an emergency.