spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Let us know how it goes, refurbishing the carb is always a good idea but don't ignore looking at the condition of the piston as it may have slightly seized causing your issues.
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Have you adjusted the carb settings yet, most carbs are set to 1 turn out on the H&L screws but try 1.5 turns and see if that helps. A carb kit may help but it may just be a blocked fuel filter, holed fuel line, blocked gauze strainer or just gunk in the carb. The 114 is an old saw, is the piston OK? Taking off the muffler and viewing the piston through the exhaust port will help. What is the compression like? 150psi + is best. Lots of things can cock up the idle but if the compression and piston looks OK, most issues are fuel system based.
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It is all OEM. You can get a decent bit out of these 350 saws, they are light, have decent AV and can come alive with a bit of work. The comment about 346s screaming but no grunt...been out with mine today and it goes like a train on N20. I don't agree on the 357...OK, mine isn't very standard, is almost impossible to pull over with the decomp being used and it flies but each to his own, personally, most 3 series Husqvarnas are pretty special.
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I have used them for around 12 years and can't fault them....perhaps we both should be on commission 👍
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Is that the fella or the saw🤔
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Care needed but you can helicoil them without stripping the engine but care with where the piston is, grease and stuffing the cylinder is all part of it as is using the compressor airline with the exhaust port only slightly open is all important.
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I have a Stovax Stockton 8 and noticed that the fire wouldn't shut down if you shut all the dampers and put it down to the stove meeting the latest regs. Not being able to gain full control of the stove bugged me so I set about working out where the air was getting in and traced it to the top damper so I made a plate to reduce the air entering the front of the top damper and got the stove working as I wanted it. I can now shut down the stove and subdued the burn as you should be able to do. -
I always punched the thing out with a sharp awl. Line it up on one end and give the awl a tap with a hammer, it should pop out.
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That leaking fuel is either the carb needle valve leaking ( most likely) or a severely worn piston skirt on the inlet side causing blowby.
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£1200....I think I will start up the business again and come out of retirement.
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I thought someone said that couldn't happen....tell that to someone that has seen clutch drums disappear down their drive at great velocity.
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Did you de-stress the crank bearings after screwing the crankcases together? Unlikely to stop the engine running completely but usually missed by many. The rest of it, could be anything and depends on your experience in rebuilding engines and fuel systems.
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Highly unlikely unless it was near full power back in the day and now has some trick delrin parts and a decent higher rated mainspring. What is it...Meteor, Mercury or Airsporter?
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Would that be the YPVS👍
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I usually find dynamite is very effective.
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Saps power, not great!
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The last load of logs I got were in payment for servicing a couple of saws and yes, I did send 20% of the logs to HMRC.....yet to get a response🤔
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I was told that birds like sparrowhawks eat the preys brain first as it is full of natural goodness so instant energy boost for them if a bigger enemy swings by.
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Magnolia getting too large, no I.D. Keep or cut down?
spudulike replied to Little Splodge's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
That magnolia looks like one I had at my previous house. The thing just puts on loads of growth each year and needs thinning out often to keep it at a manageable size. It isn't sniffy at when or how much in my experience. -
Interesting way of doing business. Don't you do the work, invoice then supply documents after payment or am I a dinosaur in a modern world of shysters🤔
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660s are pretty bullet proof. There is no history listed...has the machine been ported recently or has it been running for years and just started playing up? It could be seals gone but that takes time, a split inlet manifold or an impulse line come off? If ported recrntly, did the fella vac and pressure check the saw...I always did. Does it have one of those big bore kits on it? If so, it will be leaking from the base gasket. It is strange that it takes time to play up. Is the carb OEM?
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Neighbour's application to cut back my tpo'd tree
spudulike replied to LilyLangtree's topic in Trees and the Law
Neighbours can be complete knob ends and boundary issues will be bread and butter for solicitors however, they seem to advise stepping away nowadays. Perhaps get a land surveyor to go through the deeds and advise where the boundary should be. Bear in mind that the answer may not be what you want although Adverse Possession is always possible if you have had 12 years access to it and your neighbour has not. All this will need hostilities to cease and for the neighbour to listen....in my experience, good luck with that. -
Looks a bit beech like but am thinking Alder.
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Neighbour's application to cut back my tpo'd tree
spudulike replied to LilyLangtree's topic in Trees and the Law
Known as Adverse Possession but you would need to claim the land legally and get the deeds changed. It is made more difficult if the other landowner disputes the ownership. -
Stihl MS230 C - new carb issue - no connection for priming pipe!
spudulike replied to Millbert's topic in General chat
On the rebuild kit, you have a Walbro WT so you need a Walbro WT rebuild kit. Take the carb apart and check out the diaphragms against an image of the WT kit and they should be the same. The number generally indicates slight differences to jets and design etc and a generic WT kit should work.
