spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Typical🙄
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On the oil from the muffler, are you running a 50:1 mix? Usual hot start issues can be operator error using full choke rather than just the fast idle setting, the saw being lean, blocked fuel vent, low compression, coil to flywheel gap too big, coil beginning to fail, carb needing a rebuild/ clean, dodgy plug/HT and probably many others. If you start the saw and shut it off within seconds, does it start OK or is it not starting after running it hard? Have you pulled the muffler off and looked down the exhaust port for scoring on the piston? When a saw runs, compression drops. If the piston is worn or has been lightly seized, it may have enough cold compression to start it but this will drop when the saw is hot causing starting issues.
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It will be the oil pipe that sits on the underside of the machine. If you undo the spring AV mount, you should be able to chock the handle assembly to get it out of the way to replace the pipe. This is pretty common once the machine has seen around 5 years use.
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Here you go...as others have said. You could probably make one out of a lump of foam sponge which would work but I think this is the part. Probably a good idea to stick the foam pre filter around it as well. Inline FA14393 Air Filter - Inline Filters INLINEFILTERS.CO.UK Equivalent to: SL1527, 13780-90600, 1378090600. Buy with confidence from Inline Filters. We are UK's leading Filter Specialists. Inline FA16376 Air Filter - Inline Filters INLINEFILTERS.CO.UK Equivalent to: SL1534. Buy with confidence from Inline Filters. We are UK's leading Filter Specialists.
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Try changing the fuel filter, I have had this happen and it sorted it. Other than that, if it is fading on high revs and the filter has been changed, undo the H screw 1/4 turn, try again and if needed, try another 1/4 turn. That should sort it. I am assuming your gauze strainer is OK and that your fuel hasn't got water in it as these can also have a similar effect.
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Going back to the low cost air pistol thing, the budget Chinese PCPs are good value, something like this.. Artemis 800...177 best at pistol power.
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Life doesn't get more rock and roll than this. Nice job though, should heat a bit better now.
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And who pays for all this loss from the shops I wonder....well...the customers I reckon!! The CoOp is probably an easy target because of their small town/village demographic, easy to do the off and no police nearby.
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With the limiter fitted, you won't be able to get the same feeling on the adjustment as you would with a non limited carb adjustment. Is the saw fitted with a bar and is it stalling on the strop, on the floor, being held....it all makes a difference. Have you checked the clutch springs, if they are a bit baggy or one is broken, the saw will stall on idle.
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Has the L screw still got the rev limiter fitted on it? If the L screw is turned in fully, the saw revs should rise and then die. If it doesn't do this, I would suspect an air leak.
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I found a Husky mincer once, I was tempted but it wasn't really me.....comment as appropriate 😉
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Believe me, the only way, teeze out each bit and glyphosate each bit. Nothing else works. Done it a few times, time consuming but it works.
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Stop carping on about moles, voles and holes.....lets get fishy!!
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The petrol will burn leaving fluid in the exhaust that will smell of paraffin which is pretty much what it is. I trust the petrol has 2T oil in it as well. I serviced an 066 years ago for a local fella, it came back a day later not starting and a bit of a blame game. I swapped his diesel impregnated fuel out and proceeded to fill the drive and Close I lived in with clouds of smoke until my mix came through and it ran just fine. It will do no harm to the engine....as others have already said.
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Done 3 this year, looks like that is it for now...hopefully. It is the mess they leave and the cavities they make under slabs, makes a royal mess although the mice like to use the redundant runs.
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I sympathise, I have had my own success trapping them though. The art is locating the tunnels between the mole hills, I use a screw driver and push it in to the soil around the mound to locate it. Once you know where the tunnel is, you get a wall paper scraper and cut a neat oblong out of the roof of the tunnel, find the entrance and exit then place one of these old fashioned traps in line with the tunnel and replace the plug of lawn. Just keep at least a foot away from the mole hill and then get in to the mindset of the mole travelling the tunnel so a nice clean installation and positioning of the trap is critical IMO. Ok usually get 4 traps down to raise the odds. Goodluck
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It sounds like that flat glass fibre tape that some manufacturers use to seal glass. I think you can get self adhesive types as well -
Probably caused by the cheap rubber parts I mentioned earlier
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Oil syphoning pump to drain hydraulic oil...
spudulike replied to Matthew Storrs's topic in Maintenance help
Those drill pumps often say no to oil but they are cheap and would work at least once. They are great for water butts, filling ponds and I made an excellent pond vac out of one, it gets rid of pond sludge and fish crap very effectively. -
I had one of these Chinese 372 copies in a while ago. It was a strange experience in that the saw had a familiarity about it but it just wasn't right. I will clarify, the recoil didn't feel right as the recoil spring was much thicker. The rubber parts were cheap and shiny, not like the nitryl rubber originals. The plastic parts were not as well finished. The worst part was an elusive air leak was tracked down to hairline fractures around the alloy supporting the main bearings. Sure, it sorted of went and felt like a 372 but the build quality was lacking. I haven't had any in recently but you do get what you pay for but a pro, doing a pro job, with insurance and in a dangerous profession......choice is yours.
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I reckon Nikasil plating must be well under 20 thou - around 5 thou I would reckon and personally, I usually use a three legged hone very lightly, it always worked well for me. The art is to get a bit of roughening of the bore without taking much off and not catching the ports with the legs.
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It is bad spelling but am I complaining 🤔 Grease - lubricant Geese - big birds to eat or act as security Greece - holiday destination Greese - who knows
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Well old boy, on July 20th the OP stated the machine was a MK2 so please keep up and stop drifting in to that boxed set of Downton Abbey again, I know it is difficult🙂
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You are using a ring compressor to get it in to the cylinder bore aren't you? If all else fails, remove the piston and try to insert it, with the ring fitted, in to the cylinder and see if that does it. It will get a tight fit, that is how it works. Use a bit of oil to ease it....you could measure the piston ring groove depth so you know it will work. Have you carried out many rebuilds?
