spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Razor blades were stopped some time ago...that is the double edged safety type. I used to get most of mine off the bay but can't now. -
They used to but not now. Husqvarna now own McCulloch, Jonsered, Gardena, Poulan etc etc and Husqvarna are a stand alone company.
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OK, good call, just hope you never use a 550XP or 560XP and then realise why these saws are 5 times the cost.
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But it isn't orange and thought budget wasn't an issue!
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25cc needing a decomp valve...blimey, try a 1970s McCulloch!
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Did that fella ever get a chopper for his wood, perhaps a bit of a red herring and never had any intention of getting his dabs on a saw.
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Coppicing often means revving flat out near max revs rather than at around 9,000 as normal. What sort of oil was it running and was it fresh mix.
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Just so you know, the software will tell you what the carb is set to on the high and low circuits. If it is running excessively rich on both, it means you probably have an air leak. Some techs using the software may not have worked that out....that is the polite version!!
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Ah, Plogs, how I miss him👍
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This is a very old thread but you will find that most chainsaws have an oiling pinion/worm that rotates freely on the crank shaft and this is driven by the clutch engaging on the clutch drum this spinning the pinion that operates the oil pump and only when the chain is spinning unlike vintage saws that often oiled all the time. Not sure how else a saw would oil only when the chain is spinning but it is a pretty much universally adopted concept.
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Sounds like the throttle mechanism is sticking open a bit. Easy to see, pop the top cover off, look at the mechanism on the right side of the carb (closest to the clutch side), open and close the throttle, open the throttle and close it very slowly and see if it closes fully immediately. You can start the machine and do the same then close the actual carb mechanism with your finger and if it works fine if you push it shut, check/lubricate the cable and mechanism plus clean the airbox area. It is possible it has an air leak in the seals or around the cylinder front transfer ports but the autotune masks these pretty well. Plugging it in to the factory software can show if this is the case but check the throttle first, especially if someone has stripped it recently.
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Been told this is ash and cedar……
spudulike replied to Rustington's topic in Tree Identification pictures
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That is a very good call, fluid is near impossible to compress unlike gas (not fuel if you are American). I could tell you why this is but people do glaze over most of the time😉 The cause will be a leaking needle valve in the carb.
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What is your budget? Have you tried your local charity shops? Is this a serious question🙄
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Where are you located?
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Sorry, well out of the game now☹️
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My mistake, I always get that wrong.....blade, not bar, blade, blade, blade..........
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Thanks, much appreciated.
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What a cock, surprised he isn't grasping the bar!!
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No idea but I am rising above the general BS life throws at me👍 Not sure what has happened to this forum anymore.
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Well, is he pro Trump and Farage🤔
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550XP or 560/562XP Not too difficult, both will do the job but the 550XP will be lighter to use for longer times, the 560/562 will do the job a bit faster but weigh a bit more. The 560 has the smaller Husqvarna bar mount, the 562 has the larger bar mount.
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I can't see a 40:1 mix causing the damage we have got. Probably more likely to have helped keep it going.
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So, we are orange...Stihl & Husqvarna are both orange but there are some others that are orange and not so good. Budget.....do you want new or old, if you purchase a knackered second hand one, can you fix it up? If not, you are needing new and a budget would sort out where you end up. Pine trees....8", 12", 15"...3'? I ask as you will really notice the difference between using a 50cc saw and 70cc saw after the first hour or so. If most of your stuff is 1' and under, a 50cc saw will do the job just fine.
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I have never seen damage caused by carbon. I have seen partially blocked exhaust ports, even had a saw not making it over TDC caused by a lump of carbon on the squish band but not seen damage that would cause this sort of issue. My thinking is it will either be a big air leak caused by component failure or a mix of slight air leak, saw a bit lean, possibly dirt or leak in some part of the fuel system. This is my experience with these sort of issues.
