spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Those inlet manifolds are tricky for the uninitiated but always took great care when refitting when I did them. On ring gaps I am old school, 7 thou is nice, 20 thou is getting worn.....20 thousands of an inch = 0.5mm. More critical on single ring machines. You should get 175 - 190 psi with the gasket deleted.....on a cold engine. It is a nice little mod and as Dan said, a relatively easy productive mod - you don't always need to get the timing wheel out to make BIG gains.
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Yup, did a similar conversion on an old Dolmar with a Stihl "Tablet" and it all worked very well. Alchemy I believe!
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Squish...0.5mm is what you aim for and the base gasket delete should be OK without any extra work. I use Carplan Gastite instant gasket as it has a decent temperature ceiling but any decent liquid gasket will do the job. Not sure I would bother with the ring if the end gap isn't too large. On tuning the carb, I usually take the revs down and then lean the carb up until it just starts making the tach bounce off the limiter and leave it at that. It is unlikely you will ever cut anywhere near where the rev limiter cuts in so no issues in doing this and gives a bit of safety margin. When you increase the flow of the engine, it naturally pulls in more fuel as the flow through the carb increases so I have found the carb actually needs leaning down a bit .....I guess you will do a muffler mod as well.
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That sort of damage is usually caused by the oil pump gear being tight and the pinion worm drive then strips as it can't turn the gear correctly so.......why is the oil pump gear not turning correctly? Dirt, cheap/thick oil, oil pump not installed correctly.....
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You can test them with a multimeter when closed, they should go from infinite resistance down to almost nothing when closed.
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Allegedly.....you may thank me if they didn't👍
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Compression OK?
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Probably the clutch bearing has worn badly and not been replaced. Repair - you could try a thorough degrease and apply an epoxy putty like Milliput or JB weld. Is the hole through to the tank or just inconsequential?
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Get them to change the fuel to the "Correct fuel" while you are present and then make your mind up. With machines like this, I usually strip the carb, check the gauze strainer, check and generally raise the needle metering arm like ADW said, make sure all the diaphragms are OK, change the fuel filter and sometimes remove the H&L screws and get a bit of carb cleaner down them. I would normally open the H&L screws another 1/2 turn on how they were set and then try it. Most saws will give in by then and work fine with just a final adjustment to get the revs right. Using Aspen may sometimes require a slight richening of the L screw but the "wrong fuel"....it isn't like you are loading it with coal is it.
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The point on the seals is that I once did the seals on a 460 or 660..a long time ago, I failed to push home the seal so it was level with the surrounding alloy casing and it was enough to fractionally bend the oil pump when screwed down and it was enough to make the oil pump gear very difficult to turn. Your plate being bent up is more likely but if you have tried everything else......
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On the two plates, No31 is by far the most common and if held on by a single screw, it is the one you should use. With the oiler, on any setting, it should always fling oil from the tip off the bar when pointed at a clean piece of wood and revved. Were the replacement parts OEM? Have the crank seals been replaced? sometimes people don't push them in far enough and sometimes they can lock the pump up as it bends the pump when clamped. Is the bar oil hole clear of debris? I have seen seasoned pros wonder why the oiler isn't working and this little hole is blocked. It sounds like the oil isn't flowing in to the bar but is flowing behind the mount plate, just check the surfaces of the bar mount are clean and flat, hopefully the new plate will sort it as it is a pretty simple mechanism and shouldn't give any serious issues.
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Good, thanks for letting us know, glad it is sorted now.
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If the fitted cylinder is OEM and not too bad, I would always try to salvage it and fit a decent quality aftermarket piston if one is available. Take note of Stubbys advice, no point fitting new parts until a vac/pressure check is done and the fuel system is checked out and adjusted correctly after fitting the new parts so the saw isn't over revving.
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The roller I was talking about is the chain roller, not the mower roller.🙄
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Typical seizes are using old fuel oil mix where the oils lubrication has been degraded, lack of or no two stroke oil in the fuel, air leak or running lean. Running lean can also include split fuel lines, blocked fuel filters, blocked gauze strainers etc The piston crown damage is interesting. It is possible that someone has damaged it using a poor choice of piston stop or it has caved due to the heat. The damage looks like a bad case of pre ignition but that could only happen if the coil had developed a weird fault or the flywheel managed to shear it's key and stop a few degrees in advance. Never seen one that bad before.
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I had one of those once, the clutch centre had a clutch shoe retainer lug broken...exactly the same had occurred.
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The chain side plates often have a number stamped on them and this can identify the chain type. If you can identify the chain, purchase a meter length and a link so you can make your own, usually by grinding the rivet off and then driving it out with a punch. The link can then be fitted with the closed end facing the rotation direction. Just done a Rover mower which was a 35 ANSI chain...cost around £12 for the link and enough chain for two chains. If you can't identify the chain type then it comes down to roller size, roller pitch (measurement between roller centres) and the width of the chain. Unfortunately, many chains are close in sizing.
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I usually push them in as level as possible then tap them in with a suitable size socket as long as it can locate on the edge of the seal otherwise use a reasonable drift and hammer to tap it in. Just do it evenly and match the depth to how the original one was fitted - usually flush with the casing.
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You have to know me to know what my words mean. A tad expensive = WTF, do I bend over so you can take me up the posterior, I will have to put the wife on the street corner to pay for that...you have to be having a forking laugh!!!
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I do remember some of the yanks modding carbs but the 3120 is relatively rare so never really took much notice of the mod. I have heard of people fitting tights or socks over air filters when milling as the dust will cause wear on the inlet side of the cylinder, doing so will make the saw run a little richer but guess that will be a positive. The foam filter should help you.
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The bearings die from lack of grease rather than not using the Stihl grease. Ensure all the grease points are located and filled regularly - weekly if using it every day. Those gears are a tad expensive!!!! Lithium grease is fine.
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TBH, Forget all the timing figures but do ensure the saw holds pressure/vacuum and the fuel system is overhauled to ensure the saw doesn't go pop again. You would probably find a bit of a muffler mod and lowering the squish to 0.5mm will up the power but the carb has no adjustment on the H setting making mods a bit more difficult to get the best performance.
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That seal is FUBAR, L&S are normally pretty good and will phone if the order is going to be delayed.
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I would normally say it sounds like a bit of shyte in the carb gauze strainer but will assume that this was replaced in the carb overhaul. If your saw has stood empty and unused for a long period, it is most likely the fuel line has hardened and isn't reaching the fuel when on its side. You could fill the tank fully and see if it still happens or just replace the fuel line and filter as matter of course and it will probably fix your issue. It is possible the fuel line has a small split/crack in it but the above is probably the best option.
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I think he meant the help line.....tough week....big G&T and ....relaxxxxxxxxx
