spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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This is a very old thread but you will find that most chainsaws have an oiling pinion/worm that rotates freely on the crank shaft and this is driven by the clutch engaging on the clutch drum this spinning the pinion that operates the oil pump and only when the chain is spinning unlike vintage saws that often oiled all the time. Not sure how else a saw would oil only when the chain is spinning but it is a pretty much universally adopted concept.
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Sounds like the throttle mechanism is sticking open a bit. Easy to see, pop the top cover off, look at the mechanism on the right side of the carb (closest to the clutch side), open and close the throttle, open the throttle and close it very slowly and see if it closes fully immediately. You can start the machine and do the same then close the actual carb mechanism with your finger and if it works fine if you push it shut, check/lubricate the cable and mechanism plus clean the airbox area. It is possible it has an air leak in the seals or around the cylinder front transfer ports but the autotune masks these pretty well. Plugging it in to the factory software can show if this is the case but check the throttle first, especially if someone has stripped it recently.
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Been told this is ash and cedar……
spudulike replied to Rustington's topic in Tree Identification pictures
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That is a very good call, fluid is near impossible to compress unlike gas (not fuel if you are American). I could tell you why this is but people do glaze over most of the time😉 The cause will be a leaking needle valve in the carb.
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What is your budget? Have you tried your local charity shops? Is this a serious question🙄
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Where are you located?
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Sorry, well out of the game now☹️
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My mistake, I always get that wrong.....blade, not bar, blade, blade, blade..........
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Thanks, much appreciated.
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What a cock, surprised he isn't grasping the bar!!
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No idea but I am rising above the general BS life throws at me👍 Not sure what has happened to this forum anymore.
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Well, is he pro Trump and Farage🤔
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550XP or 560/562XP Not too difficult, both will do the job but the 550XP will be lighter to use for longer times, the 560/562 will do the job a bit faster but weigh a bit more. The 560 has the smaller Husqvarna bar mount, the 562 has the larger bar mount.
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I can't see a 40:1 mix causing the damage we have got. Probably more likely to have helped keep it going.
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So, we are orange...Stihl & Husqvarna are both orange but there are some others that are orange and not so good. Budget.....do you want new or old, if you purchase a knackered second hand one, can you fix it up? If not, you are needing new and a budget would sort out where you end up. Pine trees....8", 12", 15"...3'? I ask as you will really notice the difference between using a 50cc saw and 70cc saw after the first hour or so. If most of your stuff is 1' and under, a 50cc saw will do the job just fine.
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I have never seen damage caused by carbon. I have seen partially blocked exhaust ports, even had a saw not making it over TDC caused by a lump of carbon on the squish band but not seen damage that would cause this sort of issue. My thinking is it will either be a big air leak caused by component failure or a mix of slight air leak, saw a bit lean, possibly dirt or leak in some part of the fuel system. This is my experience with these sort of issues.
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Yup, a bit of a mess. One thing to add to my original thinking that seizure may have been caused by the impulse coming off is that the fuel lines on older 372s can wear through and leak air in to the fuel line causing running issues. What I am saying is.....make sure the fuel system is checked over and a vac/pressure check is done after repairing the damage and tach tune the rebuilt saw to ensure good running. Fortunately the 372 cylinder is pretty robust so can often be salvaged.
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So little info, so much kit: - Battery Mains Petrol Size wood Typical location of use...will determine power type Budget Operators experience
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As he said but if you know a bit, I pull the plug out, get the piston at TDC, rock the flywheel to and fro and if the tappets don't move, you have the compression stroke which is the one you need. Personally, I adjust the tappets by feel and you can get them pretty good this way. One of the symptoms that the tappet gap is too big is that the engine gets very hard to pull over. This is because the large tappet clearance stops the automatic decomp system from operating correctly.
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Now there's a picture that will take days to get rid off!! I do the rats round here, a decent air rifle and they don't like it up them.
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You can look down the plug hole on some saws but forget the piston crown, drop the piston to BTDC and look at the cylinder bore above the exhaust port. I used this method as a very quick check and it is effective especially if you have a small head LED inspection torch.
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Second what they said. The overheating suggests running lean leading to seizure. You should be able to tell lack of compression from pulling on the starter handle but removing the muffler should give you the full picture. Most likely the impulse line has come off. I did a US ported one some time ago where this happened, the saw had destroyed its crank and shows that porting does protect the cylinder but the overrevving caused other damage.
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Blimey!
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The more open muffler and greater flow reduces heat faster and lowers the chance of seizing due to excessive heat so the ported saw runs cooler. The bark box is a prime example of poor modification IMO (I have had the unfortunate experience to have heard a few), I always bounced the exhaust port shock wave off a muffler surface before exiting the muffler, that way you still get decent flow but also don't increase the noise excessively. I preferred what I called "a rorty exhaust note" to "ear bleedingly loud", the ported saws I did were generally used in domestic and commercial work and any modification should be sympathetic to this use unless the customer states "forestry only" where decent ear muffs were needed.
