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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. The MS460 is like the MS660 and is pretty much bullet proof. I have never seen pinion issues with this saw so it is most likely that the oil pump is plugged with fine saw dust. The oil will flow from your RED bit so any blockage will be on this part of the oil pump. If you get an aerosol with one of those small pipe appendages like WD40 has, stick it in the hole that connects with your GREEN hole and blast it down there. If nothing comes out of the other hole, it is most likely plugged with shyte and it needs cleaning out. You can either strip it or try blasting it with a compressor etc. Other than that, make sure you haven't worn the end off your oiler arm see below pic....this is relatively common on saws that are 10-20 years old and can be difficult to see. Check that the end of the arm is locating in the slot in the sprocket. If it isn't. the end has completely worn off. This was very common on low hours MS261s a few years ago but I have seen issues on well used 460s - not a design issue but just an issue found on saws that have lasted a bit too well.
  2. Not sure on the HL135 but on the earlier version, the drive would fail on extension if the last bearing attached to the extension pole had either failed (middle fallen apart) or the pop rivet holding it on to the extension pole had failed. Worth popping it apart and looking at it but go careful, these things are not that easy to work on.
  3. I just use a detail sander and a drill with a wire brush to remove rust. I tried a bit of brick cleaner but this works well for me.
  4. The ball pein, no idea but have since seen a few that have come up on eBay. I reckon it was just a blacksmith that needed an axe and had a spare hammer so made one. I liked it as it was different - good for small bits of kindling, the larger kindling got me in to resurrecting axes!
  5. Nice job, always good to bring these old tools back to life. So much more rewarding than getting some old bit of that that wont last. The history is what I find interesting, not that you see much of it but every axe tells a story. Stihl do decent Ash axe handles that don't cost a fortune if anyone is interested in this work. Doing my Brades 1.5lb head at the moment, have stripped the handle of the paint and logo and am shaping the end to receive the head over the weekend.
  6. Nice job.....but I think those gloves have seen better days!! Those 630s are decent machines, well built and solid construction. Should last you a fair while.
  7. Just started a new thread on Antique Axes etc....fill your boots!!
  8. I was asked to show some pics of what I am currently messing about with in the workshop on another thread so rather than de-railing it, I have started another thread to honour the great Industry that was Great Britain and the axes and gardening tools that came from our foundry's typically Sheffield and Cannock. Feel free to post up your projects, horror stories, loves and hates etc. So, here are the beasties...I own a Fiskars X27 for splitting, these are all smaller hatchet type axes From the left, a ball pein hammer converted in to an axe - the rubber strapping is to get a good grip on what is a hammer handle - I picked this up from East Ruston Gardens. The next is a small kindling axe/knife stamped "Made in Sheffield", The next is a Kent design hatchet 15" handle which will be original as it was my Grandfathers so probably 100 years + Stamped Riley and Sons. Next is one I have just aquired, an Eagle Edge Tool Company axe, around 1 3/4lb, the handle has a serious twist but feels fine in use. The next is a Gilpin Kent Style with a head of around 2.5LB and handle of 18". The two on the right have had the handles removed and re-wedged, I fitted a small metal cross wedge on the Eagle one as one was fitted already and wanted a clean job. Close ups below: - This last one is work in progress, a Brades head stamped 1918....possibly from WW1. I have an Ash Stihl handle on its way so I will strip, stain and fit it when it arrives.
  9. So the Stihl AT software isn't quite as good as the OBD2 port on your car then I took a look at the IPL again and the generator was for the heated handles - I thought it strange as the Stihl AT machines I have worked on have used two magnets on the flywheel to generate the AT power. Lets hope it is the coil, I hate it when you have to resort to swapping out parts like you have had to, I much prefer a charred fooked up part that is definitely causing the issue.
  10. Another thought....I once had a 372 XPT that had been round 3 dealers with a farting mid range which was a bit on an off. Anyway....the long and short was that the generator behind the flywheel had come loose. I haven't had a MS462 in so am working blind but the IPLs look like it has a generator fitted. Worth checking out the tightness and wiring.
  11. Have you checked the AT wiring is OK and also given it a stretch when checking? The MS201CM has a habit of fracturing or wearing the wiring under the top handle front AV mount and that can give similar bad running. I haven't used the Stihl AT software but is the machine setting the high and low fuel settings correctly? Not sure if you can see this info but sometimes the tests on Husqvarnas CST test with no faults found but the fuel settings can often be interesting.
  12. A good result...I think....... logic takes over with things like this and stupidity of others can often be the route cause. Hope it works out.
  13. I am getting a kick out of refurbing some old vintage English axes to make my own kindling for my own use. The history of the English tool manufacturing is interesting as most of it ended up as Spear and Jackson. It all started with my grandfathers Riley and Sons axe that is probably 100 years +. S & J Family Tree.pdf
  14. The 254 is another fine machine. The first one I ported was scary as to how the pick up changed...again light and powerful....great saws.
  15. Possibly a bit of gunk in the gauze strainer, the pump diaphragm may be holed on the sealing flaps or the air filter may be dirty...don't be fooled by it "Looking" clean, the orange ones especially as the open areas block easily and look clean but they are not.
  16. spudulike

    Lawn

    Mantis tillers are great for small allotments and gardens but wild flowers generally don't need nice soil and lots of things other plants demand. Lightly dig and rake is probably enough. Scatter the seeds once the earth warms up after the frosts have finished, March/April will get it going. You could get some of them going in small compost filled pots. I am doing a similar bed in my garden and many of the plants I listed will flower from spring to autumn. Cosmos, Salvia, hotlips, marigolds, nasturtiums are all very bee friendly and have amazing flowering periods. It is great to see bees on a flower in November - that was the salvias last year. Any flower that has an open middle is good for the bees. A mini buddleia would be good if you want a shrub.
  17. spudulike

    Lawn

    Options: - !) Till it over, replant with grass seed and will be good in three months. 2) As above and use some wild flower mix - one cut in Autumn 3) Till and plant Nasturtiums, Cosmos, Foxglove, Delphiniums, Canterbury bells, Marigolds, Salvias, lavender and watch the bees love you for your cottage garden....oh, don't forget the crocus and daffs for early colour. 4) Plant half of it as a veggie garden...runner beans, courgettes and onions are easy and worthwhile. 5) Block pave it and be destined to end up in hell!!!!
  18. I have a 346XP, same as Stubbys and it always brings a smile to the face. Light, good AV, revs like a wasp on steroids and picks up like nothing else and is soooooo good to use. I reckon the 3 series Huskys were some of the best saws out there and some of the best to take modification that takes them to the next level.
  19. eBay US.... Jonsered Throttle Lever. Part 501 77 33-01. Acquired from a closed dealership. WWW.EBAY.COM Jonsered Throttle Lever. Part 501 77 33-01.
  20. Available in the US.... jonsered 625, 630, 670 chainsaw throttle safety lever 501 77 33-01 new oem (h-000) CHAINSAWR.COM Throttle safety lever Part # 501-773301 / 501773301 new old stock part from closed out dealer Fits Jonsereds 625, 630, 670
  21. The part you need is 501 77 33-01 I believe it is still available, I am sure ADW will confirm one way or another - I know it says "out of stock" but L&S will probably be able to get it in from Husqvarna: - Lock Lever for Husqvarna Machines - OEM No. 501 77 33 01 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Lock Lever for Husqvarna Machines Genuine Husqvarna Spare Part OEM Number - 501 77 33 01
  22. If the saw needs all of those parts, take it from me, if this is a project to make money, it ain't gonna happen with a 181 unless you picked it up for free. eBay is your best chance of parts but take my advice and stick to higher value pro saws. Break it for parts or sell it as a non runner.
  23. Keep it going, at least the pics now don't turn your stomach. A damn good reminder as to what can happen after leaving your home for an average days work. Looking a lot better and am sure you still have a long way to go but keep positive and well done for posting about your accident.
  24. The very odd one if dropped off and generally for firewood....a morning a month is a busy one nowadays.

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