spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It very much depends on the sort of money you paid out and whether the time going after them could be better spent generating your own leads. Some of these companies are just con artists at best.
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Just join the RSPB
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I thought Farage said if we left Europe, we could control our borders and sort out the small boat illegal immigrant issues. That worked out well then didn't it!! The bloke hooks on to public sentiment and uses it for his own purposes, personally, I wouldn't touch him with a bargepole - too smug and dangerous IMO.
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Just stick it on eBay and see if it goes....possibly someone on here may have a use but eBay gives a decent spread of customers and google picks up ebay sales pretty well.
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Just stick it on eBay and then purchase a much more suitable modern saw. These old bangers are worth some silly money to collectors and it would just break your back if you use it for an hour or two. The knife/blade is a "Bar" and the part that cuts is the "Chain". Even if you fit a smaller bar, the AV and weight will still not be good.
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perhaps a pic or a model number..."Red"....Jonsered perhaps?
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Ah, Dumper, met him once, did up an 026 with sentimental value from what I can remember...decent fella.
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Try removing the plug, turn the machine so the plug hole faces downwards and pull the starter handle a few times. Make sure the choke lever is in the stop position as the fuel I expect to come out may ignite. It sounds like you have petrol in the bottom of the engine. Clear it, leave the plug out all night, try starting it again then get back on here if it doesn't start. It may be worth taking the exhaust off to take a look at the piston through the exhaust port....any scoring is bad news.
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Don't forget to change the fuel filter as I have had similar symptoms on KM94s and this was the issue.
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Mine was a ball pein hammer and the hammer part was formed in to the axe head. It is possible the hammer end on yours has been formed from the pein part of the hammer by grinding the edges and end of the pein.
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I have a kindling axe/knife - bit like a small meat cleaver and that has a hole through the handle and the tang so it stays in but guess much works on the same basis as a file and is an interference fit on to the handle. Most of my garden trowels and small trowel forks use this method successfully.
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Fortunately, I never found myself in this position but I would take a part payment if the value of repairs including parts would push the repair bill above the market value of the saw especially if it was a new customer with no trading history. As I said, the majority of fellas and companies I worked with were decent and happy I had given value for money and returned the kit in good time and working as it should. I never had any major problem...this guy sounds a bit of a dick!
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Yup, the two are different, one is the "kickback" of the saw activating on the saw brake guard hitting your hand on the top handle, the "Inertia" brake is as in the vid, a dropping of the saw bar on to a lump of wood to activate the brake. My personal opinion is that the saws brake is most likely to activate under kick back so the guard will hit your hand and activate...etc. What brand of saw is it?
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Blimey, not that one again!!
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Just strip the kit down and give him a box of bits. He thinks he is clever so he will be able to fix it easy seeing you have identified the issues. What the hell did he expect to pay...£20 and a six pack of McEwan's export???
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The insurances I have seen in the past cover parts and not labour. No fun if the issue is a £5 seal in the gearbox that requires a full strip down.
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I used to get those in as well. In one case, I just reassembled it...no fault present!
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I was charging £50 per hour and was happy as I was pretty on the fault so fixed kit pretty efficiently and that was before the cost of living and inflation hike......porting Included. With what you have done, you should be £250+...he sounds like an ungrateful bugger...tell him to get a quote from the local dealer for the work you have done.
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You can guess the type who stole the kit but I feel sorry for all the trades who were done over and lost the tools to run their livelihoods and earn a living just to have their kit thrown in to the back of a container like that.
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Yup, seized and, unless you want to do all the work yourself and a self help/learning project then it isn't really worth repairing. The cylinder will be Nikasil and may well be salvageable...lots about this on my "whats on your bench" thread and then fit a Meteor or Hyway piston if you can get either but use the original circlips. You are probably right on the straight fuel but if the saw has had lots of use, you may have an air leak, split manifold, dodgy seals, split fuel line etc. A decent tech would run through the lot and set the saw up so it doesn't go pop again.....that sorts out the pros from the boys!!
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Yes, there is "compression" and ....."compression"...one is a perceived value, the other is between 150-200psi. Share a pic of the piston through the exhaust port...that should do it.
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Nice job, glad it worked out well.
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Those inlet manifolds are tricky for the uninitiated but always took great care when refitting when I did them. On ring gaps I am old school, 7 thou is nice, 20 thou is getting worn.....20 thousands of an inch = 0.5mm. More critical on single ring machines. You should get 175 - 190 psi with the gasket deleted.....on a cold engine. It is a nice little mod and as Dan said, a relatively easy productive mod - you don't always need to get the timing wheel out to make BIG gains.
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Yup, did a similar conversion on an old Dolmar with a Stihl "Tablet" and it all worked very well. Alchemy I believe!
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Squish...0.5mm is what you aim for and the base gasket delete should be OK without any extra work. I use Carplan Gastite instant gasket as it has a decent temperature ceiling but any decent liquid gasket will do the job. Not sure I would bother with the ring if the end gap isn't too large. On tuning the carb, I usually take the revs down and then lean the carb up until it just starts making the tach bounce off the limiter and leave it at that. It is unlikely you will ever cut anywhere near where the rev limiter cuts in so no issues in doing this and gives a bit of safety margin. When you increase the flow of the engine, it naturally pulls in more fuel as the flow through the carb increases so I have found the carb actually needs leaning down a bit .....I guess you will do a muffler mod as well.
