spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Probably best to fit a new modified one. Just text or email me and can sort something out.
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Sorry, no. I wasn't being a smart arse BTW, thought you may be interested in the machine!
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Not a problem, either PM me or contact me on [email protected] and we can get the ball rolling .
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That muffler has been modded before it did that. Was it one of mine?
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I think the coil may be a wild goose chase as the symptoms you describe sound more carb related to me.
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Got a fully working one in good order!
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That looks like the uprated part to me. It does fail if you like dropping the saw down on the strop hard but the part is relatively cheap and fitting, fiddly but 1-2 hours. Around £70 to do.
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Answering these questions just shortens the fun of recommending anything between a McCulloch 335 to a MS880! Never really liked the MS362 much, 560 XP is a bit nicer.
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The most common issue will be with the carb but it is possible that compression is dropping off with heat after use so measure the compression when it has lost power and expect 140+ and if this is OK them most likely a carb issue but don't rule out coil, HT lead and plug as previously mentioned.
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Can we confirm that it has a new OEM kit on it or some other Chinese poop and it is also worth making sure the piston was fitted the correct way round!
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Either both carbs are faulty or you have HT issues. The crank seals may be leaking but these tend to give idle issues and don't tend to leak that much. The HT lead can breakdown where it goes under the pump, seen that before. Only seen one coil go, tend to be pretty reliable. You can test the lead with a spark tester. Jumping the spark over the testers bigger gap shows any insulation breakdown in the HT lead. Worth changing the plug and checking the tank breather as they can get partially blocked. Carbs can give issues and these C1q carbs need a few specific tests to ensure they work well and not just a new kit fitted.
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Most likely that the metering arm needs a tweak, try lifting it around 1/2 mm. Worth pulling the H&L screw and blasting done WD40 or carb cleaner down there and wind them out around 1 & 1/4 turns, should be one turn but if it is lacking fuel....
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You can split the engine part from the gearbox side and the clutch will then be accessible. I think you access the bolts from under the starter cover and was fairly obvious when I did one some time ago. Sounds like the clutch has seized up.
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Damn, that would be one big otter to have a liver that large.
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Oh damn, I was just joking, did she deserve it???
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Get the 254 sorted and get a good early model 372 then get it ported& serviced. You won't regret it
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Should we think about calling the police? Have you done away with the other half and now sharing it on social media? This is a bit bizarre Anyone got any fava beans?
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For a working saw you need spark (with the right timing), Fuel (fuel/air at the right amount) and compression. Is the plug wet once you have pulled the saw over with full choke 10-15 times? Have you checked the compression or at least, taken the exhaust off and looked at the front of the piston and inspected for scoring? You can try holding the throttle fully open with the right hand and pull over hard with the left....not in the rule book but can help small saws struggle in to life if a bit wet with fuel!
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Just pop the clutch off and the cover that covers the oil pump - held on with a screw to the top front and clipped to the other casing parts and then just check the two large mount bolts top and bottom. It is the top one that acts as the kill switch earth.
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I would go easy on widening the hole as you could just cock up the mechanism altogether. The only time I have had issues like this is when the thread paint has been softened by solvent. I haven't swapped out caps like this and it is usually the fuel tank plastic that makes the screw caps tighter.
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I usually try to buy better quality if the item is going to be used hard, often and needs to be reliable. If the saw will sit on the shelf most of the time then buy cheap and possibly cheerful. If you do go for a cheap option, just bear in mind that you may end up buying a better saw in a year or two - it is just the way it is and you learn to go for the better option as time goes on and funds are more available.
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With the volume of fuel that is being pulled through, it sounds like a stuck metering needle or the height has been incorrectly set. If you don't have a pressure checker/pop off tester, attach a piece of fuel hose to where the fuel pipe is usually connected and blow down it. It should hold pressure but if it doesn't, the needle isn't sealing correctly and as soon and you pull the saw over, fuel will be forced straight through the carb and in to the engine. Make sure the metering arm fork is under the little pommel on the needle not above it and make sure the spring is located correctly. You can also take all the carb and elbow off the saw, prise the fuel line out of the back plate, push it on to the carb and then take the fuel cap of and put it back on and see if fuel pisses out of the carb. My betting is that it will.
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I had a 560XP in and had done the trips to the dealers etc etc, poor running, no power, bogging etc. Simple fault - the pump flaps on the pump diaphragm had perforated around the holes that they should have sealed. the Autotune is just one part of the equation and old school diagnostics shouldn't be ignored. Swapped diaphragm and it was as good as gold!
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Are you sure the metering valve is OK? Try pressure testing the fuel inlet and see if it holds pressure.
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I don't believe you will get away with just fitting the part as you will need to programme the autotune with your serial number, coil type etc and will most likely find it will not run. The machine type, serial and running info is all stored on that single part! The software does the click valve test and should tell you if the valves are faulty as probably the fuel settings on the read-out would. Have you checked the spark yet?
