Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

spudulike

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    14,824
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Yes but it houses a silver sintered metal breather! If you take it out and look at the other end from the connector union, you will see this.....trust me:001_tongue:
  2. In answer to both of you, it should be a push in interference fit but personally degrease the hole and use a bit of Loctite around the breather to stop it coming out again. Avoid getting the glue on the sintered metal part!
  3. Not something I usually do but every now and then someone wants something like this and manufacture to order.
  4. Big, heavy, vibes but the torque is always impressive on these old machines. Probably best for use now and then rather than all the time!
  5. There are three tank connections. The first is nearest the rear handle and is the main fuel line, the second is the breather and the one furthest from the rear handle is the union for the primer bulb with the other short pipe going to the carb. The most likely cause of a fuel leak is around a shrunken fuel pipe, dislodged tank breather or the return pipe from the primer has come off. Does the fuel leak happen when you refuel and the tank is pretty full?
  6. Excellent, thanks for letting me know, think I can hear them from here:thumbup:
  7. Thanks James, didn't know your user name......glad you liked the saw, probably much lighter as well with all that crud missing:001_rolleyes: Like the 357 - an old favourite:thumbup:
  8. It is to enhance the performance of a chainsaw typically to cut faster and have more torque in the cut. It started in the USA Oregon where loggers wanted to use a lighter saw to do the work of a bigger saw. Think of a 460 doing the work of a 660 - much less fatigue on your body! The 550XP.....get it run it and out of warranty then knock on my door. There is a fair bit to do via a muffler mod, exhaust and transfer work. It will give it more go!
  9. Makes life easier when the parts are a reasonable value...unlike the inlet manifold...£30 for a piece of rubber:001_rolleyes:
  10. spudulike

    Chainsaws.

    They will just feel inadequate:001_tt2: It did happen and the tutor rocked up and had two saws ported.....that's two tutors BTW:thumbup:
  11. It is most likely that the bar has been used with a blunt chin and now one rail is taller than the other. Put it in a bench vice, place a steel rule across the rails and see what sort of shape it is in. I use my bench grinder to level them - just adjust the rest for correct angle and grind both sides. Having done this, you need circa 5mm of rail depth to accommodate the full length of the drive link. If you don't have this then it is scrap. If you do, the next thing is to make sure the rails hold the chain without too much roll from side to side. If there is a lot of roll, you can sometimes peen the rails back in to shape by literally bashing them together carefully from both sides. You have to be careful not to get any pinch points but it can be done! Or you can buy a new bar!
  12. The dremel 90 elbow wont fit down the bore of a chainsaw unless it is a 3120:blushing: You need to go air chuck for that. I get by with a variety of diamond burrs and a conventional grinder - the power unit just blew up the other day, brushes fooked and think one of the thyristors has gone as I can't get full speed now:thumbdown: Your issue is that you can cut and cock up damn easy! Perhaps you are reading too much in to it! For £80 and a little cleaning up the "artefacts" you can get your project to a good useable condition! Just thinking! Stick a dual port on it for a little more wallop.
  13. spudulike

    Chainsaws.

    You need to define a strategy........basically you need a 50cc, 60cc, 70cc, 95cc, 120cc saw..........now you need to get a courier to deliver them without the other half knowing so possibly to a mate she doesn't know! The next issue is to make them look at home, sort of like they have been there forever and practice surprise and indignation when the other half says "Where the hell did they come from" or "Are they New" or even "WTF have you done". Then you need the defence in case it gets nasty......Well....look at the shoes/handbags/clothes you have and then you need a sweetener just in case it really kicks off - "I am thinking about Spain this year", "I fancy a cruise", "What about a new car".............that sort of thing, it helps diffuse the aggression! In reality you need a 50/60cc saw and then a 70cc hard hitter then invest in a felling saw if you do that sort of work, perhaps a 95cc one. Husqvarna 560XP, 372XP and 395XP.........Stihl MS362 (Don't like them much), MS461/MS460, MS660/MS661 should do it!
  14. I can see what you mean. I have only had one issue with one Meteor kit having a small lump of casting left in the transfer but ground it out. I have ported a few Meteor kits and the plating is damn hard, as hard or perhaps harder than Mahle. The Chinese plating is like cheese in comparison. I have never seen port shaping like that before - not good! I guess you could use a timing wheel and bring the cylinder in to OEM timing and open the ports if there are any constrictions etc. It would be interesting to time a Meteor against an OEM! I would still buy a Meteor against the other AM kit just because the plating is good, small imperfections can be removed and hope there are no major differences in port flow and timing. At £80, it gets the project moving on!
  15. It will be a ported wheelchair running two Stihl 090s by then:thumbup:
  16. And that is the big question - how to fly when the oil dries up:confused1:
  17. That's because in 2040, there will be cock all oil left in the ground and what is there will be blooming expensive to extract!
  18. Try the Meteor one for around £80.00, it will do the job and are made well - very hard plating!
  19. That looks bad, not detonation with a splash of seize in it is it? Not seen one go on the edge like that before!
  20. <p>Sorry, I did have an 028 but knocked it out on ebay a couple of years back. Getting pretty scarce now. Good luck Steve</p>

  21. Part 1141 400 1302, got a good condition saw that the coil has failed on. I know I can get aftermarket ones but they can be pretty bad. Is anyone breaking a MS261 and got a good coil - just PM me with a delivered price if you have. The saw is for repair for a customer and not being repaired for resale! Cheers
  22. I take it you are lying on your front tonight happy in the knowledge that you now know where the Christmas Fairy doesn't live:001_tongue:
  23. Looks pretty good to me and easily convertible to 372 spec:thumbup:

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

Articles

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.