spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Most likely that the metering arm needs a tweak, try lifting it around 1/2 mm. Worth pulling the H&L screw and blasting done WD40 or carb cleaner down there and wind them out around 1 & 1/4 turns, should be one turn but if it is lacking fuel....
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You can split the engine part from the gearbox side and the clutch will then be accessible. I think you access the bolts from under the starter cover and was fairly obvious when I did one some time ago. Sounds like the clutch has seized up.
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Damn, that would be one big otter to have a liver that large.
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Oh damn, I was just joking, did she deserve it???
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Get the 254 sorted and get a good early model 372 then get it ported& serviced. You won't regret it
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Should we think about calling the police? Have you done away with the other half and now sharing it on social media? This is a bit bizarre Anyone got any fava beans?
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For a working saw you need spark (with the right timing), Fuel (fuel/air at the right amount) and compression. Is the plug wet once you have pulled the saw over with full choke 10-15 times? Have you checked the compression or at least, taken the exhaust off and looked at the front of the piston and inspected for scoring? You can try holding the throttle fully open with the right hand and pull over hard with the left....not in the rule book but can help small saws struggle in to life if a bit wet with fuel!
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Just pop the clutch off and the cover that covers the oil pump - held on with a screw to the top front and clipped to the other casing parts and then just check the two large mount bolts top and bottom. It is the top one that acts as the kill switch earth.
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I would go easy on widening the hole as you could just cock up the mechanism altogether. The only time I have had issues like this is when the thread paint has been softened by solvent. I haven't swapped out caps like this and it is usually the fuel tank plastic that makes the screw caps tighter.
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I usually try to buy better quality if the item is going to be used hard, often and needs to be reliable. If the saw will sit on the shelf most of the time then buy cheap and possibly cheerful. If you do go for a cheap option, just bear in mind that you may end up buying a better saw in a year or two - it is just the way it is and you learn to go for the better option as time goes on and funds are more available.
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With the volume of fuel that is being pulled through, it sounds like a stuck metering needle or the height has been incorrectly set. If you don't have a pressure checker/pop off tester, attach a piece of fuel hose to where the fuel pipe is usually connected and blow down it. It should hold pressure but if it doesn't, the needle isn't sealing correctly and as soon and you pull the saw over, fuel will be forced straight through the carb and in to the engine. Make sure the metering arm fork is under the little pommel on the needle not above it and make sure the spring is located correctly. You can also take all the carb and elbow off the saw, prise the fuel line out of the back plate, push it on to the carb and then take the fuel cap of and put it back on and see if fuel pisses out of the carb. My betting is that it will.
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I had a 560XP in and had done the trips to the dealers etc etc, poor running, no power, bogging etc. Simple fault - the pump flaps on the pump diaphragm had perforated around the holes that they should have sealed. the Autotune is just one part of the equation and old school diagnostics shouldn't be ignored. Swapped diaphragm and it was as good as gold!
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Are you sure the metering valve is OK? Try pressure testing the fuel inlet and see if it holds pressure.
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I don't believe you will get away with just fitting the part as you will need to programme the autotune with your serial number, coil type etc and will most likely find it will not run. The machine type, serial and running info is all stored on that single part! The software does the click valve test and should tell you if the valves are faulty as probably the fuel settings on the read-out would. Have you checked the spark yet?
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Just caught up on this, the early TCMs had a restrictive exhaust, the later ones had a much needed upgrade. If the saw has the flock type air filter then try the mesh one. A muffler mod will also help the engine breath but would leave it at that as the later saws were a fair bit better than the early ones that had a multitude of issues.
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Most fuel tanks will form a pressure and is caused by the fuel getting warm or screwing the fuel cap in. Tank breathing can be tested using the pressure/vacuum tester. The rest of it may be an air leak, worn carb (have you checked the throttle shaft tightness in the carb body?), or just old rubber carb parts. Always thought the 285CD was a gutsy saw!
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Yup, that's the one...haven't lost my marbles yet! Never personally liked the "Cu" swear word!
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There was a day when using that sort of language would get an immediate ban!
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Just split the clutch/gearbox drive part from the engine and you may find that the drum has sheared from the sprocket or the clutch has disintegrated. If you can't do it, take it to you local fella who can. Not a massive job and worth it as these machines are generally pretty good.
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Probably the clutch has corroded and stuck through lack of use! Just strip it down and get it fixed, no biggie!
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Normally it is a piece of clear pipe with one of those Stihl breather screws inserted around an inch from each end of the pipe.
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I once got a Zomax saw in with a few others I got to refurbish. From what I remember, the top cover had charred around the spark plug, the starter gear was appalling, the AVs were as soft as poop but the engine seemed to run OK. You do get what you pay for although sometimes you can get lucky and get something better than the small cost you paid should have given you.
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Straighten it and then use a couple of pop rivets to hold it in place. They often fall out like this!
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Ca' Marrone Rosso IGT Puglia Appassimento We pick discounted ones and then get the extra 25% off and at £5 per bottle is damn good. The other one we like is called "The Duke" and is a very smooth full bodied Spanish. Usually £8, often.discounted to £6 so £4.50 with the 25% but wasn't discounted this time.
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The fuel is being pulled up through the fuel filter, if the fuel filter is fully submersed in fuel, no air will get pulled up UNLESS the fuel line is holed!!
