spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I was using agency workers many years ago and phoned the agency to ask for workers that had lace up shoes, baffled, the girl from the agency asked why? I said that the ones they were sending were that stupid they had to wear slip ons as there was no way they could do up shoe laces......wasn't far from the truth either
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I reckon Matty is spot on, easy diagnosis - start the saw, take the chain brake off, put it on the floor, hold the engine down firmly and pull the top handle around a bit so it flexes on the AV mounts. If the revs change then the manifold is the most likely culprit unless the throttle linkage has got hooked up somehow or something else is loose on the carb etc.
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The 572XP is the replacement for the older 372 XT. The general consensus is that the older 372XP with the decomp on the side of the cylinder was the best model between the XP and XT models. Be interesting to run a ported 372XP against the new 572XP - just got to find someone with both
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Aw damn, wrong way round again, it was bad enough trying to screw the sparkplug in porcelain first
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The real early ones had threaded holes either side of the exhaust port rather than the square retaining bolts. Not sure what the OP means about the rest though??
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That doesn't look nice. My day was starting to work on a number of saws, finding that they needed spares, going as far as I could then on with the next one - three on the trot.....hate it when I can't finish the job!
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I am guessing you are talking about the X Torq models? My choice would be the 365XPT, run it out of warranty and then just take the baffles in the transfer cover plates to convert it to a 372XPT. If you are talking the original model then the 372 takes some beating and yup, a 365 special can be converted by changing the top end - have done a number now.
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Well, tried it out for 30 mins today and it rips through wood very nicely, idle is smooth, good pickup and revs out fine. Now boxed and ready to go back.
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It now wears a new muffler and sprocket, just got to tach it and run it through some timber to make sure all is OK but it all appears good to me
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Yup, that's the one, the noise really pissed one of my neighbours off....shame
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Despite the bloody ring not staying still, you get the idea...................
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Thank the Lord for that, group hug again, Eureka as some guy once said as he got out of a bath All ended well, cut that wood, fill the burner.
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That piston looks fine. If you get to the point where you can pull it over, do yourself a favour and heat the plug with a plumbers lamp as it helps a flooded or oiled engine fire once the fuel is pulled through. The oil and fuel residue may swamp the spark plug when you first try to start it!
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Old saws should be owned by people that know how to fix them. My £50 McCulloch from 1960s took 4 days to fix up and get running - they are a labour of love and that is that. Keep an eye on ebay, especially in the US and see if one comes up but they are pretty rare now and most parts will be obsolete. Strangely, I got a NOS sprocket for the old McCulloch and a recoil spring off ebay
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Good film "Layer Cake" and well worth watching, didn't quite work out the way DC had planned!
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Nice to see someone planning ahead, the younger you do it, the more time it has to grow and support your old age!
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The labour comes to circa £100 and on discussion with Josh, have decided to fit a new sprocket and muffler as both were pretty gone. Both parts will take a bit more time to fit and the saw to test but will leave the price at that to keep it realistic. I tend to find most customers are more interested in getting decent and effective service rather than screwing down the cost to nothing.
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The 181SE is an old school 80cc Husqvarna with no decomp - they are a bit tasty when pulling over!
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That is all the FLUID in the machine, it needs drying out so take the muffler off, take the plug out and pull the little bugger over in all positions - upright, on its sides, vertical etc and pull it over hard. Put the plug back and pull it over softly and see if it will spin. Next we can start on how to get a flooded oily saw started!
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If the saw will spin over freely with no plug in then there are no mechanical issues so checking clutches, flywheels etc is pointless if the issue only happens when the plug is in and doesn't when the plug is out. The only thing the plug is doing is sealing the cylinder combustion chamber. Either the plug is too long and is acting as a piston stop or there is fluid in the engine or thick oil in the bore making far too much compression.
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The muffler looks similar to the old L65 or 298XP and probably many others of that time. The best options are to take a similar one and mod it, repair the one you have or to make a bespoke one. None of these is particularly easy so good luck!
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It was actually 30 seconds and was making a cup of tea and reading the newspaper whilst doing it
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Nope as it will be connected to the carb. Quite like the idea of the piston cupping the oil/shyte though. I guess it may puddle there and then fall to the bottom of the case once righted and then it would blast up the transfers when pulled over and voila - hydro lock in the top end! That is why I said turn it over slowly first to see if it would turn rather than giving it a full pull. The laying it on its side or standing it on its front so it runs out may work! Funny that a 10 minute workshop job takes a week on here
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Looks very nice but without some serious porting, has pretty much the same performance as a standard saw! Stubby - show him yours
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Try taking the plug out, taking off the recoil (Starter) cover and turn the flywheel round slowly with your fingers and see if there are any tight spots. There will be some attraction between the magnets and the coil at top dead centre so expect that but it will be smooth. If this is OK, Turn the saw upside down with the plug out and turn the engine over via fingers and flywheel and see if any liquid comes out of the sparkplug hole. If it is still free, put the plug in but very loosely and turn it over the right way up using the same method and slowly. If it is OK then do the plug up and turn it over again. You should be able to turn the saw over very slowly even with the plug in and even a slight hydro lock will give if the rotation is slow enough. See where this gets you.
