spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Been working on saws for a while now and some that come in are in a filthy condition and don't understand why some people cant buy a £100 compressor to blow out the crap that builds up on these bits of kit. I have had two saws not idling due to the flywheel rubbing on crud around the coil, I have also had saws running very rich due to the air filter being pretty much choked with crud. Working on clean saws is like a breath of fresh air and a damn site easier so......treat yourself to a small compressor - it may actually save you money in the long run!
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Manufature Year on Husqvarna Top Handle T540XP
spudulike replied to geordie628's topic in Milling Forum
Highly unlikely IMO, much more likely that the unit has a new factory short bottom end or someone has removed the serials from the saw. If you remove the serials, there will be the remains of the studs or damage to the area, scratches where the plate sits and damage if the studs have been ripped out. I have done a few short engine replacements and those serial plates don't fall off!!! Removal will leave damage to the locating area. -
Always a pleasure, glad it is going well now after that nip up seize the piston had, I did mean to send it to you but forgot to put it in the box. The Meteor ones are a damn good replacement and as good as OEM in my opinion. It should get even better once that piston has bedded in fully. Cheers
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Manufature Year on Husqvarna Top Handle T540XP
spudulike replied to geordie628's topic in Milling Forum
It is possible that the bottom end of the machine has been replaced as the earlier ones were prone to throwing chains and taking out the crankcase. The new cases will never have a serial number! The original serial is retrievable from the autotune unit! The serial plate is almost impossible to remove without damaging it. Look at the holes where the stainless rivets attach the plate. It should tell you if there has ever been locating rivets in those holes! -
A climbing saw will be able to be able to be operated with a single hand and not have a handle to the rear of the saw like pretty much all ground saws apart from vintage saws like the Stihl 009 that are a halfway house with the handle midway between the top and rear. The handle will be mounted above the saw (Top Handled) and have the typical carry handle protruding from the side of the top handle as an addition and not as a separate handle bar as on most rear handle saws. You can buy a top handle saw second-hand legally but generally need to purchase new from a dealer face to face. The top handle is deemed more dangerous as it can be operated by one hand leaving the other able to be cut and also as both your hands are much closer together in normal operation of the saw giving less control of the machine.
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I have had this on some Chinese pistons. It is a case of finding where the piston is impacting and grind the thing down to get it to fit. You can fit the piston and then wobble the piston to and forth so the crank leaves a witness mark and grind that area if safe to do so. Bear in mind that the bottom of the inlet side of the piston dictates inlet duration timing so go carefully.
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It may operate on inertia as well as by hitting your hand. Some saws will operate their chain brake by holding the rear handle and dropping the bar on to a log. See how it goes and remember it is a prime safety device for your own protection.
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Worth checking the colour of the spark plug - if it is black then the saw is running rich and may need leaning off, if it is white then it is running lean. It may be a bit of fine saw dust in the carb strainer. Most likely carb related but worth either cleaning or trying a new plug. The early 201s were dire and have lost count on the ones I have modified!
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If the crankcase is filling with fuel mix, the needle valve or spring may have failed or the metering diaphragm has gone hard and is holding the needle open. The chain oil is probably the gasket and a pressure, vac check will prove that.
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Nah, it is basically taking trimmers off the main board and fitting normal pots so you can adjust thresholds and sensitivity that are not normally adjusted out of the factory to gain 2-4" depth. Relatively simple with the right instructions and just luck I managed to get hold of one of these older machines and find the instructions....God bless the forums!
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I got a Whites IDX and ported it....well did some tweaks to give you greater depth etc, courtesy of some dude called Mr Bill....nice machine now hence the other one being available.
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Make sure the air filter is clean, it may look clean but inspect the mesh with a magnifying glass as washing with warm water can block the open areas. Make sure the choke isn't flipping on somehow - can't see how it would on a 254 but check anyway. It is possible the H screw has wound out or other people with the latest machines are pissed at your ported 254 being faster and have sabotaged it.....who ported it Other than that, perhaps a needle jet that has started leaking, dodgy diaphragm, leaking high speed check valve (very possible) or leaking welch plug. You will need to know your stuff on some of these carb issues! Perhaps a carb kit and a US clean may sort it.
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Yes, I was posting this as the OP was saying it was a MS391 and not a MS361!!!!! With the greatest of respect, I am not that stupid!!!!!
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The rim is supposed to have end float on it. The issue you have is that the thin section of the brake band has ridden over the pillar that it should sit on. Look at the photo - the drum has been rubbing on the band because it is in front of instead of on top of the alloy cover pillar!
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On these carbs, the screws are generally fitted with limiters. You may have fitted the carb and missed the impulse line and now you have an air leak. Just fitting a new handle shouldn't make any difference to the carb set up. I would remove the carb and try refitting making sure the union between carb and impulse is 100%. In the unlikely event that your carb has been delimited, H screw 2 turns out and L screw 1 turn out will get it going again. It is most likely the L screw is turned in too much if it isn't starting but as I said, fitting a new handle won't change the characteristics of the saw unless you have messed up the linkages or impulse line union.
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Get a good make metal detector but a few years old to save a few ££££. Most of them are discriminators and will tell you if there is ferrous metal 4-6" relatively easily, larger items deeper. Whites, Garrett, Minelab, CScope to name but a few. The Garrett Ace 150/250 seem pretty well received machines. Got an old Cscope from the 80s you can have for £50 delivered if you are interested! Will test its air depth on anything you ask if you like.
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Just seen the news, we met when he and his other half went to Oz on holiday and he left his 346 with me to port. Came back with some goodies and a spark plug gapper I still use daily. So sorry, seemed like a real good guy for the little I knew him.
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I have had a few issues to get these saws started when I port these saws. Once I get the carb set up correctly, they start fine. Have you had it running at all? If not, take the plug out, turn the saw upside down and pull it over fast until all the unburnt fuel is clear, heat the plug up with a gas hob or plumbers torch, put it back in the saw, set the carb up with fast idle and no choke so pull the choke out and push it back in and then pull the saw over hard preferably using no decomp and see if that does it.
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I would always stick with OEM rather than go for Chinese big bore kits. The piston to cylinder clearances are almost always better on stock OEM top ends meaning higher compression and better torque! Also the plating on OEM is sooo much harder than the Chinese ones!
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That air filter must be changed before you wear out the inlet side of the bore. The flooding is most likely a leaking metering needle in the carb and may be caused by a dodgy metering diaphragm or incorrect metering arm height. I have seen the diaphragm incorrectly fitted on these machines. If the metering arm has a "V" in the end of it....bit like a yoke and the diaphragm nipple has a groove in it, the nipple groove should slide on to and locate on the metering arm. If you don't understand this, you should take it to someone who does. The hole in the filter won't have caused this flooding. Have you more details on when this flooding occurs just to verify my analysis?
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Ah, the upgraded MS390, not so good, actually....well off the boil on the 560XP! Clam engine and not that high revving!
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Yup, good machines, bit like a scaled down MS461/MS460. Got a good reputation.
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Well that sounds ominous
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Strange, will wait with anticipation!
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Yup, nice if made in to a fritter!! Nothing in the spam folder....are others getting notifications? Spam and pickled onion sarnies are a curiously pleasant mix!
