spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I have and it has cock all effect
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I haven't waded through the thread but my issue....I am not getting emails now to tell me I have a new PM!!! I used to but not now. Is this an on going issue, an improvement or what?
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Looks like the signature only appears on the computer based site and not on the Mobile version....for future reference!
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Ah, seems to have vanished [email protected]
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Or use the email on my signature on all my posts......it is bright pink so is easy to miss!!
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Ah - you were telling me that sharpening the saws is a PITA, I read it that sharpening the saw would have stopped the engine mounts disintegrating....Doh
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Not sure I follow that, the failure is the engine mount bolts coming loose, the earth point for the kill switch is on the top mount so that stops working. Arb types are clever so use the choke to kill the saw and the next step is the engine gets VERY loose. Sharpening the saw wouldn't help......making sure the mount bolts are tight as soon as the kill switch fails is sensible!
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Have been working on a MS150 today, both front engine mounts had spectacularly failed so the engine had to come out, the top end removed, the lower clam split and then the clam side with the damaged mounts supplied. The job is a mare, everything is sooooooo small, the bearings are conventional roller so the crank is held solid by the bearing unlike most small saws. I had to fabricate a splitter plate to split the lower crankcase, the bottom end is a cross between a clam engine and a vertical split engine and none of my pullers helped that much. The pics show the damage. The mounts are almost completely worn away - the screwdriver points at them. The early warning sign is the kill switch stops working SO BEWARE!!!!
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Stihl HLE71 long reach hedge cutter, gearbox slipping
spudulike replied to John123's topic in Maintenance help
Ooopps, -
It is rare Chinese kit is worth repairing in most cases!
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TBH, no....the cranks on small machines may be OK but both AM cranks I used on a 660 failed spectacularly badly! Not tried AM flywheels!
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Stihl HLE71 long reach hedge cutter, gearbox slipping
spudulike replied to John123's topic in Maintenance help
Probably the clutch shoes are corroded and stuck on their bushes. Strip, drive the bushes out, clean lubricate and reassemble. I am not familiar with the model but am assuming it is similar to other models! -
The edge of the clutch drum has been running on the brake band to the point it is almost through. The saw is now in a dangerous state with the brake band in this condition and would seriously NOT use it until it is repaired. It looks like the brake band may not have been seated correctly but it may fail if applied so get a new part fitted under warranty or at your cost!
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I put my left forearm on the top carry handle and pull up on the chain whilst tightening the bar nuts. I noticed that you needed to do this to stop the chain becoming loose in first cut. Didn't get taught it, just did it as an obvious technique!
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Try another plug and do the test in subdued light. It is easy to miss a spark on some saws! The carb most likely needs an overhaul and tune.
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When tightening the chain, do you force the end of the bar upwards or pre tension the chain? If you don't, you can get this sort of issue!
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That's the 362!
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Ouch!
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Just caught up with this bad news, pass on my good wishes and hope all sorts itself out in the best way possible. Thanks
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The lack of pickup can be carb issues, air leak, blocked muffler, nipped piston etc but backfire is usually ignition issues and that is coil or flywheel key related!
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The backfire sounds like a faulty ignition coil or loose flywheel/damaged key! If it has a Chinese coil, swap it for an OEM one!
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I got through two Chinese cranks on a 660, one sheared in half, the other big end failed. If you run a big bar, forget it being robust!
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Double check the length of the exhaust bolts. If they are not the same, make sure you get them the right way round or you will damage the cylinder wall like the guy in that link!
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Shouldn't be too bad, new Stihl bearings, aftermarket seals, gasket set, new meteor piston etc. Just duck and five between aftermarket and OEM parts. Just call it a hobby!!
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If that is a new Stihl drum and bearing, the crankshaft is worn. You can measure the diameter of the shaft where the bearing runs and then where it doesn't. Of the difference is over around 0.2mm, you have a real issue with the crank.
