spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Nope, just the statement from the bank abbreviating the customer title - just the way it rolls, makes me laugh....and the customers. Got a carb on the way, the saw had gone to a few others before it came to me in frustration and had a recent new carb. Seemed not too bad but was a bit flubby in the cut and fortunately, I validate as much as I can before purchasing expensive parts.
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Run it flat out and hard but for short periods (heat is a killer) and DO NOT sit it on idle for long periods. The saws bore, rings and piston have rough surfaces and you have a short window where they can bed together to create a decent fit and this is best done early in its life and is done by running it flat out but avoid long big cuts where excessive heat will build up.
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Just been doing the business bank statement - they always abbreviate the customers names and had Shire Tree Services ending up as "Shi T S" and then had Manor Farm Tree Services ending up as "Man Far T S" Made me chuckle
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This was an interesting one, a 576XP that was sort of lacking power though not badly, would stall every now and then, didn't rev out as well as it should and it sort of warbled or four stroked in themed range. It may have been the autotune but thought more coil and then checked the main bearings and noticed some strangeness around the flywheel so pulled it and found the coil that produces the power for the autotune unit had sheared a bolt, the other one had come loose and the laminations had splayed and caused a bit of wear on the alloy casings. The simplest solution - get rid of the autotune system and fit a standard carb!
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I find quite a few MS150s flywheel nuts are pretty loose. You can't crank them really tight as Stihl have turrets on many of their flywheels to make the flywheel lighter but they do burst relatively easy so if that flywheel makes a "PING" that sounds like hitting the flywheel lightly with a screwdriver then be worried - easy to do and new flywheel time!!
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Yup, anyone who has seen Alien will have experienced how one of those springs goes when they pop out and fly across your workshop. On a serious note - wear safety specs for obvious reasons! I am sure the next question will be about getting the spring back in
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A pretty solid saw all round...even bullet proof. Worth checking fuel line and impulse line but apart from the typical rim etc, generally they are solid with no real weak points. Always worth checking the carb gauze filter but that is pretty normal for all saws.
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Strip it down, inspect each part, replace the damaged/worn parts and all should work.....surely???
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What sort of carb? The saw should run with both H&L screws one turn out unless there are other issues although the gauze filter would be a prime cause of the bogging you had. Are the adjustment screws close together or either end of the carb?
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Usually poor piston to bore clearance and greater squish. Usually just a poor piston to bore fit lowers it significantly. The compression is unaffected by the transfers and the only port to effect it is the height of the exhaust port as compression is made as the piston clears the top of the exhaust port and heads up to TDC.
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Apt for this day......
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I remember Madame Cholet and Uncle Bulgaria, not sure I remember Cock Womble??? As for Chris Packham, I quite like the bloke for being passionate and battling his demon Asperger's. Rather share a pint with him than one of these polished celebs up their own posterior!
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Poor compression......... scores in the bore, scores on the rings, scores on the piston, worn piston skirts, worn bore, worn rings, holed or cracked piston crown, saw has nipped piston, broken ring, poor cylinder/piston manufacture, too much squish clearance, saw not run in well, carbon build up causing stuck ring.....I am sure there may be more!
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I have enough crap saws rolling in without numpty Facebook and Twitter ijuts sending their crap in as well and I also have no interest in what my friends are eating drinking or fooking - I invite them round for a drink and curry - it may catch on!
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Good saw the 395XP, nice to work on
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Pretty decent saw, they have their issues but are about as good as they get. Lots can be done with them and makes them absolutely bonkers. Good AV and nice handling saw.
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Reckon you got your moneys worth out of that repair and porting, nice to see it hasn't shortened its life. I think we have seen the last of the saws that will easily last 5-10 years.
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Nice to see the 395 is still working well, that must have been 4 years ago now!
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Damn, you said you wouldn't tell! I did get strange looks wearing a business suit and carrying chainsaws though
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Does it involve meeting up in a layby at dusk
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I wasn't having a pop so apologies if it looked that way. I once wasted many hours on a 039 carb spraying it and getting nowhere but it can help especially on the clutch side seal if it is leaking.
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And that is....bearing lock D'oh Use Loctite 270 - that will stick em in for life but de-grease first for maximum grip!
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Stick a 13" on it and fill ya boots
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As others have said, taking kit apart and putting it back together is a good start. The thing you have to do is question every part for its fit, form and function, analyse everything as without that, you have just got a meccano set! I have no formal training but the overwhelming NEED and WANT to fix kit and learn more and more has done me well and fixing my own bikes, cars, machines in previous employment and a broad knowledge of everything computers/mechanics/diy etc has helped
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It isn't what the machine is rated at, it is what the oil manufacturer recommends so if you have a vintage machine, the oils of the day were 25:1 but if you use modern synthetic Stihl in it you would mix it at 50:1 Some no brand oils may state 40:1 but most decent modern oils are 50:1.
