spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Reckon the 241 is probably the best of the bunch and will be a bit more punchier than the MS181etc, 346XPs are fab but scarce for good ones now. I guess a fair bit hinges on how much firewood you cut and how much you will miss the punch of the 028 but think it is worth spending a bit more and not regretting it after a few hours cutting. The easy starts and these "Simple" chain adjusters are a but weekend warrior IMO, they exacerbate the possibility of failure IMO and the chain adjusters can be a sod to rebuild if they come apart!
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A better bet is to fill the bore with paper towel through the exhaust port, push the towl away through the plug hole and then tap with grease on the tap. Pull the towel out slowly, wind the piston up over the transfers and use an air line to blast the crap out of the exhaust port using the shape of the combustion chamber. done a few like it if I can but you have to be precise and have a knowledge of the ports.
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I think Steve probably has it. Sometimes the phone just can't decide whether to get the internet via the mobile signal or Wi Fi so doesn't work. Try upping your Wi Fi signal with Devolo or TP link extenders - that should help or get a better router that pushes out a stronger signal - mine works a good 40 yards away!
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Not to fit one of these saws. All the previous Stihls needle bearings last forever....I think it is their way of selling lots of sprocket kits
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I think I would be foraging around for firewood at those prices......did the guy in the campsite wear a tricorn hat, brandish muskets and ride a horse called "Black Bess".
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Mmm, nice bit of helicoil left sticking out of that hole. Guess the "other guy" was far cheaper, promised the world and produced......the stuff the soil pipe takes away! You pays your money and ...............!!!
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No, the bearing is just shorter than the inner bore of the clutch drum by around 1.5mm - it can't help can it! Why have I never changed a clutch bearing on an MS200.....unless some twat has taken it out and then given me the saw to service
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Sounds like the carb needs a full and proper rebuild - I am not just talking a few new rubber bits either! If the impulse had come off then the idle would be very fast and not good. The breather - if it has the dual fuel/breather fuel pipe, can be removed and a piece of pipe put on it and either pressure checked or just suck on it as the bishop said to the actress....but we digress Some depends on if the saws idle went loopy and someone has messed with the carb to accommodate it or if the saw just started bogging. Worth checking the throttle and switch control shaft as if they are damaged, there will be little or no fast idle.
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I have a theory that the bearing should be 1.5mm longer - just my thoughts
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Piston ring in upside down?
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It isn't using the choke to kill the engine that does the damage but the fact the bolts come loose and when the kill switch stops working, guys just carry on using it but use the choke as a kill switch!
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It hasn't sucked in the mesh from the air filter or that black sponge thing in the air filter?
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I fix lots of saws and generally have to drain them to ship and I have noticed fine black particles in some saws tanks - a bit like carbon powder. Not linked to Aspen but still strange stuff and not got a bearing on what it is. Possibly rubber particles from the fuel hose abrading on the filter and fuel tank. I also use a funnel with a very fine mesh in it - it purges the fuel tank of fine shyte when draining it! Doesn't help with the Aspen query though!
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Looks like aluminium particles but strange they are all over the crown and not just around the squish area that is where it usually happens. There is little in the inlet area that would cause it, the muffler is steel and would stop the piston dead so would suspect the piston breaking down or someone using extra long bolts has punched a hole in the crankcase and that is alloy crankcase fragments.
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What usually happens is they come in for porting and I check these two mounts as part of the service.....unlike that Adam fella you know - that is his saw in the pic.......unfortunately well beyond the long bolt and nut trick!
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How about taking off that wibbly wobbly cover behind the clutch, tighten the upper and lower engine mount bolts so they don't come loose and the whole engine flaps to and fro on one engine mount at the rear of the saw and wearing away the front ones to the point you have to remove the engine and replace half the lower crankcase which is a bastard of a job as the engine is tiny! You did ask - OK to use the choke until it can be investigated but isn't a wise long term solution as you well know
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And me, much easier and quicker IMO!
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The weak points are the engine mounts but made worse as the owners use the choke lever to stop the saw. The bolts come loose, the kill switch not working is the first sign of an issue but most arb guys are clever and use the choke lever to stop the saw until the clutch is flapping in the breeze and the lower crank case needs rebuilding Done a few interesting mods to sort this issue on various levels of wear!
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Nope, just the statement from the bank abbreviating the customer title - just the way it rolls, makes me laugh....and the customers. Got a carb on the way, the saw had gone to a few others before it came to me in frustration and had a recent new carb. Seemed not too bad but was a bit flubby in the cut and fortunately, I validate as much as I can before purchasing expensive parts.
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Run it flat out and hard but for short periods (heat is a killer) and DO NOT sit it on idle for long periods. The saws bore, rings and piston have rough surfaces and you have a short window where they can bed together to create a decent fit and this is best done early in its life and is done by running it flat out but avoid long big cuts where excessive heat will build up.
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Just been doing the business bank statement - they always abbreviate the customers names and had Shire Tree Services ending up as "Shi T S" and then had Manor Farm Tree Services ending up as "Man Far T S" Made me chuckle
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This was an interesting one, a 576XP that was sort of lacking power though not badly, would stall every now and then, didn't rev out as well as it should and it sort of warbled or four stroked in themed range. It may have been the autotune but thought more coil and then checked the main bearings and noticed some strangeness around the flywheel so pulled it and found the coil that produces the power for the autotune unit had sheared a bolt, the other one had come loose and the laminations had splayed and caused a bit of wear on the alloy casings. The simplest solution - get rid of the autotune system and fit a standard carb!
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I find quite a few MS150s flywheel nuts are pretty loose. You can't crank them really tight as Stihl have turrets on many of their flywheels to make the flywheel lighter but they do burst relatively easy so if that flywheel makes a "PING" that sounds like hitting the flywheel lightly with a screwdriver then be worried - easy to do and new flywheel time!!
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Yup, anyone who has seen Alien will have experienced how one of those springs goes when they pop out and fly across your workshop. On a serious note - wear safety specs for obvious reasons! I am sure the next question will be about getting the spring back in
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A pretty solid saw all round...even bullet proof. Worth checking fuel line and impulse line but apart from the typical rim etc, generally they are solid with no real weak points. Always worth checking the carb gauze filter but that is pretty normal for all saws.
