spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The more open muffler and greater flow reduces heat faster and lowers the chance of seizing due to excessive heat so the ported saw runs cooler. The bark box is a prime example of poor modification IMO (I have had the unfortunate experience to have heard a few), I always bounced the exhaust port shock wave off a muffler surface before exiting the muffler, that way you still get decent flow but also don't increase the noise excessively. I preferred what I called "a rorty exhaust note" to "ear bleedingly loud", the ported saws I did were generally used in domestic and commercial work and any modification should be sympathetic to this use unless the customer states "forestry only" where decent ear muffs were needed.
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How vital is the exhaust gasket on my 357xp?
spudulike replied to Joe Newton's topic in Maintenance help
You will probably get away with it for a bit as long as there is no major leakage. Any big leaks will cause the saw to run lean and that may well cause issues with seizure being the worst. Choice is yours!! -
I have done a few and a "cut and shut" on the exhaust, clearing out the internal baffle assembly livens the saw up in a big way. The ones I did were also ported at the same time and the result was very noticeable.
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That is what I meant, a "clip", section, page, extract of the manual assumes limit caps.
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That there is the remains of a large shrub, not a tree. Just dig around it and pop it out with a wrecking bar and a lump of wood as a fulcrum. Your neighbour sounds like a prize plonker who needs to get out once in a while.
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Are these the ones: - GTS2000LTE Chipper Blades Set of 2 - Blacktools WWW.BLACKTOOLS.CO.UK Set of 2 blades to fit a black tools GTS2000LTE.
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Probably the best suggestion and will probably be better than the Chinese ones. I got some from [email protected] (JDnD Industrial Services) but it looks like they may not be trading now. I haven't used the blades yet but did test them with a diamond file and they were pretty hard matching their claims on being made from tool steel rather than mild steel or similar. Much cheaper than the originals as well. There must be other small engineering companies able to make these blades, it is a pretty basic piece of engineering to them.
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The clip assumes the limit caps are in place!
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Neighbours, let them crack on at their expense.
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Thanks for the update.
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Noooooo, just look at the gap between the rear of the cylinder and the airbox with the top cover off. If the impulse has come off, you can use forceps to get it back on. The rubber may be a bit hard or even split. May be a good idea to replace it, go OEM as they are not expensive and better quality.
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No problem, glad it is running after my input. Have you looked at where the impulse line joins the bottom of the cylinder base. I once had three 260s in with their impulse lines disconnected, all in the same week. Your bottom end sounds lean. If the L screw is set to 1 - 1.5 turns out and it is doing this, expect an air leak and the impulse is the most likely candidate. Some of the old carbs are a bit iffy on the 026, if you do test it and this draws a blank, I used to get secondhand OEM MS260 carbs off eBay and use those....and charge the typical ebay cost of £25 to the customer....before some troll has a go, you know how it is!
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Stihl Ms240 Ms260 Petrol Chainsaw Tested Ignition Coil & Flywheel 1121 024 026 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK <p>Stihl ms240 Petrol Chainsaw </p><p>Tested ignition coil and flywheel </p><p>One fin missing on flywheel </p><p>Genuine used part</p><p>Please see pictures </p><p>All questions...
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Those aftermarket coils can be pretty crap at best. I think form memory, a lot of Stihls use the same coil and just fit other HT leads to suit different machines so perhaps a MS200T one would fit as the HT cable can be removed and swapped. On the flywheel key, I would expect the magnets would align with the coil at around 10 degrees in advance to TDC. It is unusual for this to not be the case but have seen some strange exceptions up to 180 degrees out! The difficulty will be if the key has just slipped a few degrees out as it will be more difficult to find. Again from memory, I think the 026 flywheel is removed by the screw in puller which makes pulling off the flywheel a breeze. The 026 kill wires can rub around the top AV mount giving some annoying HT issues. I usually try a second user OEM coil from the bay rather than the Chinese poop. More reliable.
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what is the most favoured top handle saw and climbing gear
spudulike replied to manchester tree services's topic in Chainsaws
Stihl 020T - 1996 - 2002 It was that good the MS200T was introduced which was petty much the same saw with some fancy transfer work and a new carb: - 2002 - 2012 and here we are some 13 years later.........still using the saws deliberating the best top handled saw......er...the fact that they are still very sought after speaks volumes. -
Does the choke mechanism close the choke fully? Does the "Fast idle/ half choke position kick the throttle open as it should? Other than that, it is possible the saw is running a bit lean but difficult to tell without seeing it. I would have thought that the saw wouldn't run well if the H&L screws were well out of adjustment. Are you just missing the saw "pop" when on choke and then flooding it.
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If you do it yourself, use a soft nylon bristle brush with no discernable central boss...see below. Use flexible rods and always turn clockwise so the rods don't come undone. The Victorian chimney will have a few bends in it as the upstairs bedroom fireplaces impact on the straightness but it should be OK if done right. This type of thing: -
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Nice and quiet in Suffolk, glad you have a plan and sounds like you are on the up, employment and all.
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The normal settings on the H&L screw on the carb is 1 turn out on each but 1&1/4 turns out is a decent place to start and then turn the H screw in until the saw picks up well and revs well but doesn't scream at the top revs. Glad you are making progress.
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There will normally be a removeable baffle plate in the top of the stove so open the door and see if there is a plate either bolted, screwed or just registered in to the stove. This plate should be removed and then the flue swept. I usually work out the rough height of the chimney and then translate that in to the number of rods needed. If there is an additional damper in the flue above the chimney, that needs to be removed and is usually a case of holding the damper plate and rotating the handle so it can be withdrawn through the plate and flue. I have had three stoves and one plate was bolted, the other two were Stovax and they were registered on the rear wall of the stove and two lugs on both sidewalls.
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Those 361s get quite lively when you gut the muffler!
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FIne, it is an oil and not a solvent.
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That is horrible and that big groove above the exhaust port isn't helping compression.
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Stove statistics are they correct?
spudulike replied to BillQ's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
I would turn the heat pump off for any periods of 2 days and upwards as long as it isn't in the winters worst weather. The amount of electricity a HP will use over two days is more than an initial ramp up after being turned of however we do have a wood burner. Heat pumps don't like flow temps of under 25 degrees, our night time temp is 26 degrees and it has remained reliable. Our HP is pretty old but a rough COP is 3-3.5 based on average UK gas figures and our power consumption - we cant see how much the heating uses so have estimated our yearly use based on average UK use plus our previous house usage.
