spudulike

Good job, at least it is right now. Makes me wonder about the other outfit though. Glad it all worked out.

No worries, hope it helped.

30 years is a pretty good saw life on a relatively cheap saw like this. 145psi just shows the saw has seen a bit of life. As ADW said, pop up some pics of the piston through the exhaust port so we can see the state of it. You may try fitting a new piston but up to you.

Good, thanks for letting us know that all is sorted.

If you are using the correct starting practice and lets face it, the Mtronic 261 is really pretty fool proof as you either are full choke to start on cold and just the run setting to start when hot, then it should be back to the dealer as it sounds like it has an issue. 2-3 pulls is pretty typical on this machine. You can try not using the decomp and see if it helps.

Glad you got it sorted, I think the £6.08 was worth it and gets us all on to the next issue thrown at us from the great big world out there. I hope the owner bestows many thanks on you and makes a nice big donation to the fix it organization you give time to or another worthy cause.

The Mtronic version seems to run stronger than the carb model. Your repair very much depends on if the cylinder can be reworked and the route cause found and if you can find someone to do it economically or not.

How the thing works...just in case you haven't twigged it yet....the end of the gear is cut at an angle and the adjuster has a nobble on it that allows the nobble to be positioned either slightly off the centre or much further off centre on the end of that gear. If the pump is set to "max", the nobble will be close to the outer edge of the end of that gear making it reciprocate much more than if it is closer to the centre. The pic below is of what looks to be a 346 Husqvarna type pump but it shows the above.

The lack of idle could be a number of things. When an engine warms up, typically the compression falls, this may be what is stopping the engine running correctly, especially with what you have done to it. I have done a fair number of BR600s and KM95/100/130 which are all 4 stroke and most have needed the tappets adjusted as most don't seem to do them. Generally, the engine feels much harder to pull over if they need adjusting and may sort your issues. Other heat issues - if the coil to flywheel gap is too large, when the coil gets warm, it can stop sparking so worth checking this. The carb may just need a bit of adjustment or the idle speeding up so it is less likely to stall. Lastly, the issue may just be a bit of dirt in the carb gauze strainer or a perforated pump diaphragm...I know most of this will probably be outside of your skill set but it is what it is and if your machine was in front of me...I would be checking these things before pulling the cylinder off to check the internals if the above fails.

No sign of the pics being pinched off another site which tends to be pretty common. The fact it includes a new bar and spare chain is a bit weird if it is nicked.

I once had a plastic pinion that looked perfect but when you followed the thread whilst slowly turning the pinion, the thread neatly went from a helix in to a perfect ring where the pump had got tight so the gear of the pump was never going to turn. Is the arm on the pinion relatively tight? If it is too loose, it won't work.

OK, probably the simplest solution for you. I use a small panel pin ground flat to pop that small roll pin out and then you can withdraw the adjuster and the gear once the small plastic plug is removed. The pump is probably blocked but not sure what that crunching is but guess all will be good once the new one is fitted. At least you have learnt a bit.

Just read your last post again.....have you not managed to get fluid or air through the pump? Any blockage will be on the pickup side of the pump so any fluid/pressure needs to go on the pump where it pumps oil from. As I said earlier, try rotating the pump gear whilst putting WD40 through it as in one position, the shaft flat will be in a position that will allow both holes to be pretty much open and the fluid should flow through easier.

Bearing in mind that you know there is no blockage and the pinion and arm are OK, I would say that Pleasant is correct. I used to test by attaching a bit of tube to the oil pickup or oil outlet union and blowing down it whilst turning the pump gear slowly. If the air flows through with little resistance, the pump is worn and you can also do similar with WD40. Basically, the end of the pump shaft has a flat on it and when it spins, the pump produces enough vacuum to pull the oil out of the tank. If the alloy body or shaft wear too much, the pump will stop working. I found this on a few old MS200Ts but less so on larger saws as they are used less but it is now the most likely cause if the pickup is clear of debris and the tank has been flushed out. £75..ouch, the price of spares is getting stupidly expensive.

I use a plane and then a rasping file, that takes a fair bit of wood off but is very controllable. I get the end of the handle to fit then work it down the handle, bit by bit and leave the last part tight so the head needs a real good belt to get it bedded. The rest is just fitting a well shaped wedge. I also use a god dollop of PVA wood glue over the handle and the wedge to bond it all together.

Well that's a bit bollocks isn't it. I used to get the older ones in regularly as most had no idea how they worked or how to fix them. I had 6 in at one go once and got three made up out of the parts and returned the rest as serviceable spare parts to keep the three good ones working. A big shame that companies stop making parts serviceable which inevitably means scrapping the major part and replacing the complete unit.

So, the last one is finished. The handle is a Stihl unit and came with a red end, lots of warning shyte and a big Stihl logo. On the plus side, it is ash and had a very straight and nice looking grain. The handle was stripped, cleaned, sanded, stained and the end matched with the eye of the Brades head which I believe to be manufactured toward the end of WW1 so 106 years old. The securing wedge went nicely on this one - very tight fit on the handle and a nice tightly fitting wedge, very satisfying. I was reading an article online waxing lyrically about a 1.5lb head on a 17" handle...this is a 500mm handle pared down to 18" and actually works really well, light but powerful, ideal for whacking big logs down to big kindling.

The MS460 is like the MS660 and is pretty much bullet proof. I have never seen pinion issues with this saw so it is most likely that the oil pump is plugged with fine saw dust. The oil will flow from your RED bit so any blockage will be on this part of the oil pump. If you get an aerosol with one of those small pipe appendages like WD40 has, stick it in the hole that connects with your GREEN hole and blast it down there. If nothing comes out of the other hole, it is most likely plugged with shyte and it needs cleaning out. You can either strip it or try blasting it with a compressor etc. Other than that, make sure you haven't worn the end off your oiler arm see below pic....this is relatively common on saws that are 10-20 years old and can be difficult to see. Check that the end of the arm is locating in the slot in the sprocket. If it isn't. the end has completely worn off. This was very common on low hours MS261s a few years ago but I have seen issues on well used 460s - not a design issue but just an issue found on saws that have lasted a bit too well.

Not sure on the HL135 but on the earlier version, the drive would fail on extension if the last bearing attached to the extension pole had either failed (middle fallen apart) or the pop rivet holding it on to the extension pole had failed. Worth popping it apart and looking at it but go careful, these things are not that easy to work on.

I just use a detail sander and a drill with a wire brush to remove rust. I tried a bit of brick cleaner but this works well for me.

The ball pein, no idea but have since seen a few that have come up on eBay. I reckon it was just a blacksmith that needed an axe and had a spare hammer so made one. I liked it as it was different - good for small bits of kindling, the larger kindling got me in to resurrecting axes!

Nice job, always good to bring these old tools back to life. So much more rewarding than getting some old bit of that that wont last. The history is what I find interesting, not that you see much of it but every axe tells a story. Stihl do decent Ash axe handles that don't cost a fortune if anyone is interested in this work. Doing my Brades 1.5lb head at the moment, have stripped the handle of the paint and logo and am shaping the end to receive the head over the weekend.

Nice job.....but I think those gloves have seen better days!! Those 630s are decent machines, well built and solid construction. Should last you a fair while.

Just started a new thread on Antique Axes etc....fill your boots!!

I was asked to show some pics of what I am currently messing about with in the workshop on another thread so rather than de-railing it, I have started another thread to honour the great Industry that was Great Britain and the axes and gardening tools that came from our foundry's typically Sheffield and Cannock. Feel free to post up your projects, horror stories, loves and hates etc. So, here are the beasties...I own a Fiskars X27 for splitting, these are all smaller hatchet type axes From the left, a ball pein hammer converted in to an axe - the rubber strapping is to get a good grip on what is a hammer handle - I picked this up from East Ruston Gardens. The next is a small kindling axe/knife stamped "Made in Sheffield", The next is a Kent design hatchet 15" handle which will be original as it was my Grandfathers so probably 100 years + Stamped Riley and Sons. Next is one I have just aquired, an Eagle Edge Tool Company axe, around 1 3/4lb, the handle has a serious twist but feels fine in use. The next is a Gilpin Kent Style with a head of around 2.5LB and handle of 18". The two on the right have had the handles removed and re-wedged, I fitted a small metal cross wedge on the Eagle one as one was fitted already and wanted a clean job. Close ups below: - This last one is work in progress, a Brades head stamped 1918....possibly from WW1. I have an Ash Stihl handle on its way so I will strip, stain and fit it when it arrives.