spudulike
-
Posts
15,066 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
What a cock, surprised he isn't grasping the bar!!
-
No idea but I am rising above the general BS life throws at me👍 Not sure what has happened to this forum anymore.
-
Well, is he pro Trump and Farage🤔
-
550XP or 560/562XP Not too difficult, both will do the job but the 550XP will be lighter to use for longer times, the 560/562 will do the job a bit faster but weigh a bit more. The 560 has the smaller Husqvarna bar mount, the 562 has the larger bar mount.
-
I can't see a 40:1 mix causing the damage we have got. Probably more likely to have helped keep it going.
-
So, we are orange...Stihl & Husqvarna are both orange but there are some others that are orange and not so good. Budget.....do you want new or old, if you purchase a knackered second hand one, can you fix it up? If not, you are needing new and a budget would sort out where you end up. Pine trees....8", 12", 15"...3'? I ask as you will really notice the difference between using a 50cc saw and 70cc saw after the first hour or so. If most of your stuff is 1' and under, a 50cc saw will do the job just fine.
-
I have never seen damage caused by carbon. I have seen partially blocked exhaust ports, even had a saw not making it over TDC caused by a lump of carbon on the squish band but not seen damage that would cause this sort of issue. My thinking is it will either be a big air leak caused by component failure or a mix of slight air leak, saw a bit lean, possibly dirt or leak in some part of the fuel system. This is my experience with these sort of issues.
-
Yup, a bit of a mess. One thing to add to my original thinking that seizure may have been caused by the impulse coming off is that the fuel lines on older 372s can wear through and leak air in to the fuel line causing running issues. What I am saying is.....make sure the fuel system is checked over and a vac/pressure check is done after repairing the damage and tach tune the rebuilt saw to ensure good running. Fortunately the 372 cylinder is pretty robust so can often be salvaged.
-
So little info, so much kit: - Battery Mains Petrol Size wood Typical location of use...will determine power type Budget Operators experience
-
As he said but if you know a bit, I pull the plug out, get the piston at TDC, rock the flywheel to and fro and if the tappets don't move, you have the compression stroke which is the one you need. Personally, I adjust the tappets by feel and you can get them pretty good this way. One of the symptoms that the tappet gap is too big is that the engine gets very hard to pull over. This is because the large tappet clearance stops the automatic decomp system from operating correctly.
-
Now there's a picture that will take days to get rid off!! I do the rats round here, a decent air rifle and they don't like it up them.
-
You can look down the plug hole on some saws but forget the piston crown, drop the piston to BTDC and look at the cylinder bore above the exhaust port. I used this method as a very quick check and it is effective especially if you have a small head LED inspection torch.
-
Second what they said. The overheating suggests running lean leading to seizure. You should be able to tell lack of compression from pulling on the starter handle but removing the muffler should give you the full picture. Most likely the impulse line has come off. I did a US ported one some time ago where this happened, the saw had destroyed its crank and shows that porting does protect the cylinder but the overrevving caused other damage.
-
Blimey!
-
The more open muffler and greater flow reduces heat faster and lowers the chance of seizing due to excessive heat so the ported saw runs cooler. The bark box is a prime example of poor modification IMO (I have had the unfortunate experience to have heard a few), I always bounced the exhaust port shock wave off a muffler surface before exiting the muffler, that way you still get decent flow but also don't increase the noise excessively. I preferred what I called "a rorty exhaust note" to "ear bleedingly loud", the ported saws I did were generally used in domestic and commercial work and any modification should be sympathetic to this use unless the customer states "forestry only" where decent ear muffs were needed.
-
How vital is the exhaust gasket on my 357xp?
spudulike replied to Joe Newton's topic in Maintenance help
You will probably get away with it for a bit as long as there is no major leakage. Any big leaks will cause the saw to run lean and that may well cause issues with seizure being the worst. Choice is yours!! -
I have done a few and a "cut and shut" on the exhaust, clearing out the internal baffle assembly livens the saw up in a big way. The ones I did were also ported at the same time and the result was very noticeable.
-
That is what I meant, a "clip", section, page, extract of the manual assumes limit caps.
-
That there is the remains of a large shrub, not a tree. Just dig around it and pop it out with a wrecking bar and a lump of wood as a fulcrum. Your neighbour sounds like a prize plonker who needs to get out once in a while.
-
Are these the ones: - GTS2000LTE Chipper Blades Set of 2 - Blacktools WWW.BLACKTOOLS.CO.UK Set of 2 blades to fit a black tools GTS2000LTE.
-
Probably the best suggestion and will probably be better than the Chinese ones. I got some from [email protected] (JDnD Industrial Services) but it looks like they may not be trading now. I haven't used the blades yet but did test them with a diamond file and they were pretty hard matching their claims on being made from tool steel rather than mild steel or similar. Much cheaper than the originals as well. There must be other small engineering companies able to make these blades, it is a pretty basic piece of engineering to them.
-
The clip assumes the limit caps are in place!
-
Neighbours, let them crack on at their expense.
-
Thanks for the update.
