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doobin

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  1. Might as well ask the landowner? That curved butt would only go for firewood anyhow! we are close if you need a contractor to fell and move the timber.
  2. As dumper says. I use a euro adaptor.m but that’s why I went for the lighter bucket grab. Using it in anger for the first time today.
  3. We're missing the 'barf' like icon
  4. For attachments you need flow- options in the higher hp range that can still shrink down width wise are limited. Giant 252D with the Kubota D722 seems the best on paper to me, but I got no further than pricing up. The multione has been a revelation to me as regards using it instead of a dumper. It’s amazing how much quicker it is to just rip or pull out the material into a windrow with the digger, then scoop with the loader. A 4-in-1 bucket is a must in my book. The nice thing about the setup you are considering is that it would all fit on trailer easily- micro digger plus micro loader.
  5. I’d be very wary of how well you are actually insured for that. Forestry is not exactly a ‘low risk’ occupation. £1200 seems more like it to me.
  6. I only have a small one😬
  7. You’ll never loose by replacing labour with a machine. I don’t use anything as small, but I liked the look of the giant 252D. The main criteria for me would be the ability to get the width down to 750mm with narrow wheels if needed- better to be able to get a smaller machine into every garden than have a larger machine you can’t use on some jobs. Wheels vs tracks- I’d try wheels. Yes you can’t lift as much, but small loaders (I have a multione) excel at repetitive lift cycles. Wheels make so much less mess compared to tracks in a garden. They seem to hold their money very well, so I say crack on and give one a go, let us know how you get on.
  8. Yup, I have those bits to go on. I had to leave it there as it was dinner time.
  9. Decided to get the kelfri grab into proper brackets whilst I was at it. Going well.
  10. This is for muck and grass cuttings, not logs. I have the Kelfri log grab.
  11. Just welded a backplate up for this skid steer bucket grab. Seems well built, all pro forge stuff looks quality. A farm down the road have the log grab. was tricky to know what size to go for, in the end I went for the skid steer 4’ rather than the euro 5’ as this is 130kgs vs more like 290kgs for the euro type. The 8.4 could handle a bigger bite for sure but then you have the extra attachment weight to contend with at all times too. 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️ I did borrow a 6’ euro type the other week, but that was so cumbersome it was a pain and I think the 5’ type would not have been much better.
  12. I get the feeling OP isn't too worried about the occupants 🤣
  13. Which is why when faced with a quote for £1000 (no VAT), £1100 (with VAT) and £1200 (with VAT), they will go with the no VAT company.
  14. You can't nip up bearings too tightly on the modern Ifors- they are sealed bearings which you torque up tight against the inner race. Also, taper bearings done up too tight will self destruct in a lot less than two years- more like two weeks. It's something to do with the braking system. Are you sure it's getting 'too' hot? Braking will generate heat. 'Too hot' is with smoke visible in the mirrors! Had that on an Indespension, when one hub out of four kept self adjusting, but that's a different self adjustment system to the Ifor so less likely on an Ifor and wouldn't affect all the wheels at once. As said, best to lift it up and check the wheels spin freely. Ifor brakes are simple to adjust- there's a nut on the back (21mm from memory) which you tighten until the wheel doesn't spin then back off half a turn so that the wheel spins- although slight rubbing at a couple of points is acceptable. You can also pull the individual brake wires with a pair of mole grips- 4-5mm freeplay is correct from memory. They are really simple to work on. Grab a big bar and pop a hub off, see what condition the brake shoes are in. Also wobble the wheels whilst jacked up- any freeplay on those bearings means they should be replaced. This is NOT the case with taper bearings and castellated nuts- these are best left on the castellation that leaves them very slightly loose, otherwise they will fail in short order.
  15. You can't really break em mate. They are a great help.

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