spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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OK, understand but never felt the need to on these saws, always good starters when set up right IMO!
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I thought the 353, 346, 357, 359 all shared the same choke design, no halfway setting:confused1:
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I think they did the metal one, how about checking:thumbup:
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The metering arm is the smal steel arm that is found under the diaphragm which is under the four screw cover on the carb. On your saw, you can actually get to it without removing the carb. Be careful how you remove the diaphragm, a sharp scalpel around the edge should shift it. The metering arm should be level with the alloy suround the diaphragm sits on. If there is no fuel in this chamber, it is likely that the diaphragm isn't opening the needle valve that sits on the other end so bending it up around 0.5mm may help you get the saw going. Pushing on this metering arm should allow the fuel to flow, especially if you pop off the filler cap and push it soon after replacing it as the tank will have some pressure in it! You PM me by clicking on my username and then "send a personal message" only bother if the advice here is not helping you and you need someone to look at the saw and resolve the issues. It will be either that or the local repair man/agent.
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I have seen one filtted and thnk some of the Chinese manufacturers do them. Try a specialist online bearig reseller - probbly your best bet!
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Has my Stihl BG86 Seized? (Please watch attached video :))
spudulike replied to Darkslider's topic in Maintenance help
Gardenkit is spot on, this isa classic symptom of one of the bolts come loose. You will need to pop off the flywheel to tighten the bolt but it will cure the issue I am sure! -
How bad is it? Is the bore actually scored, is it aluminium trsnsfer and is the scoring so fine, it doesn't matter? I have salvaged hundreds of saws with transfer on them, get us a photo to look at so a judgment can be made. The loose exhaust may have leaned the saw down or caused debris to enter the exhaust port and damage the bore.
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If fuel isn't being pulled through (plug remains dry after pulls on choke) the issue will most likely be a split fuel line or an issue with the metering arm beig low or the diaphragm going hard and stiff:blushing: Cleaning the carb can be done by removing the H&L screws and using carb cleaner down the holes or using a decent Ultrasonic cleaner and specialist cleaning agents. The issue is probably not dirt in the carb but may be the gauze filter as mentioned earlier.
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Ah, thought that was the CM model - baffling:confused1:
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Is that the standard carb model? I have done a couple and it gives the saw a fair bit more go! The "CM" is the Mtronic one isn't it??? The ones I have done are the normal adjust carb!
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Looks like Arbtalk is all about Sartorial excellence nowerdays rather than modded chainsaws:lol:
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Try pulling the choke out and pushing it back in, open the throttle slowly and listen for a small click. If it doesn't fo this, your fast idle latch isn't working. If this is OK, it is possible the carb needs clean, adjustment or a new carb kit. Often the diaphragms go hard and stop the glow of fuel in to the metering section of the carb. The gauze filter under the single screw alloy cover on the carb can get filled with fine sawdust which will need clearing. Try not to use the decompression valve on starting as well. If you get stuck, PM me.
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It was an example and not a direct reference to your saw in particular!
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If you can get hold of the metal caged needle bearings, they are significantly stronger than the fibre ones!
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good sales advice, educate a customer what he is getting and make him an expert so if he goes to your competition, they will get asked some akward questions and your customer will then make a choice:thumbup:
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Personally I would say the 21" bar is about as good as you are likely to get. A rough rule of thumb is to take 1/3rd of the engine capacity and convert that to bar length so a 60cc saw equates to 20" - works in most cases:thumbup: A 24" - 30" would kill its usabillity IMO!
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In England we have an affliction called "cheap"! The first thing the general public ask on ANYTHING you are selling is "How much mate". This is done to understand they can actually afford the "Item" you you are selling. Having ascertained the product is affordable, they find out what the item is about and do they actually need it In the case of a pile of wood, if they are in the know, they may start to ask questions about wood type or moisture content.Some may just walk or possibly ask for best price or reduction for cash etc. I have had a string of questions thrown at me about products I have been selling only to be finished with a "Thank You" and the "Customer" walking away - thats life, the average bloke on the street is a cock and if you get one that is fair, reliable and decent, you are doing well:thumbup: Sometimes people just like trying to be clever and getting one over you - just move on to someone that actually has the funds and actual interest in purchasing!
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Whats the budget? factor in some PPE and buy a working semi or Pro saw if possible!
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Good luck Wes, looks a nice job:thumbup:
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I quite like peperami, choritzo to:thumbup:
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The grease shouldn't cause the slipping, are the clutch shoes OK? Try cleaninng the drum off and try it again.
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No saw should spin or creep the chain on idle, it is a sign that either the clutch springs are shot, the clutch system is dirty or there is binding between the crankshaft and clutch. In this case, it may just be that the new parts are bedding down as they are new but they should be OK within a fewminutes of use. SOmetimes heavy grease can cause drag that is enough to do this or a very loose chain but if not correct - back to the dealer. The only thing I would do is to rev it and slap the brake on a few times and see if that clears it. On a normal idle, does applying the brake stop the engine, if not, let the saw idle for a few minutes with the brake on. Both this and the above should sort the issue out unless there are more indepth issues involved.
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The decomp basically lowers compression for easier starting but to get a saw to fire, you need at least 130psi compression. On a new saw, the piston and ring won't have bedded in to the shape of each other so a brand new engine will have less compression than a used one with a few hours use. So in short, a brand new engine may be a bit sensitive to not starting on decomp when brand new. It will be a different story when a few months are over and compression is up 20psi! Some saws are worse than others 365 Huskys are a bit prone to this!
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I have doubts that this little saw will pull a 1.3mm chain as it will need extra power to cut the wider kerf. I once fitted a 1.5mm full chisel on a 136 Husky and it wasn't good to use, very boggy and think yours will do the same! Stick with the 1.1mm standard gauge IMO
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To avoid a lean seize but unlikely as Stihl have fitted a limiter on this saw and limit caps on the carb making adjustment a pig - th elimiter cuts in real early and makes the saw sound really rich and flubby.
