spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I know you guys love your chainsaws but giving one a blow job.....thats weird.........did you swallow:blushing:........petrol does taste horible and not good belching afterwards:thumbdown:
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The backfiring is the spark plug firing on the downward stroke with ignition timing well thrown out by a damaged flywheel key. It is a classic sign and on a new saw - it is back to the dealer. A new one should really be fitted although you can get round it with a timing wheel and a bit of luck.........but not on a new saw!
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You must check to see of your carb still has the limiter caps still fitted. Just shine a torch down the holes and look for either plastic red screw caps or black metal slotted head. If metal, screw the screws all the way on lightly and then unscrew one turn out. The H screw is critical, make sure it is a good and accurate one turn out. If you have limiters, there are settings but just aim for the middle position between the fully in and fully out position. This full turn is typically 3/4 of a turn, if it is much more then the limiters may have been damaged so again go very careful on the H screw. Too far in and it will seize Common fuel issues on a 460 are fine wood chip on the internal gauze filter under the large dingle screw cover on the carb or fine sawdust under the diaphragm cover on the other side. The 460 is a good saw and do not worry about the banter on here:001_rolleyes:
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Yup, decent stove and free wood, that's the answer, haven't paid for wood for ten years. I have got a few chainsaws now though:sneaky2:
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Good luck Chris, give the others a real hard time. Hope the 660 is working well:thumbup:
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Take them back to the dealer, they should be still under warranty and unlikely to be that crudded up under the cover!
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Not sure if the bearings you are replacing are the crank ones but generally they last a damn long time and would only replace them if there is play in the crankshaft - typically this will be the clutch side but if the flywheel is damaged, it can knock the flywheel one out and quickly. Seals - worth doing as they often cause seizes but personally would do a pressure check afterwrds if you are able to do so. Top end, depends on budget, Hyway parts are OK and you will get the saw running but would expect a longer life out of the Meteor kit. 60psi- I don't believe any saw will start with compression that low. Is that just one pull as you need to keep pulling until it won't rise any further - typically 100psi for a non running seize, 120psi for a real poor runner with a mild seize and 145-150 psi on a good running 365, they were never big on compression.
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Meteor do manufacture a 372XP cylinder and piston, fitted one on a Jonnie some time ago for "treemonkey" and it was good.
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You often can see no splaying - it is more obvious from the roll of the chain from side to side. In extreme cases, the chain will wear all the cutters on one side only and you can be stood there with the saw going full pelt with absolutely no cutting taking place. Move the bar a tad and it then rips through - a weird effect!
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You can hammer the rails back in to shape - you need a solid bench vice and a mid size hammer and give the hammer a decent wallop and let it bounce on the bar after the hit, do this at close intervals along both sides of the bar on the rails and keep checking with the chain and avoid over closing the rail as it will pinch. If it does this, seperate the rails with a large screwdriver - a little harsh but it will work if you are carefull and patient. The splay is just bending, overheating or wear! The above may not last a long time but may be worth a punt. Good point on the depth of the rails - generally must be 5mm + or the standard depth of the drive link plus a clearance!
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It is possible that the rails are splayed and the chain is kicking over a little allowing only the cuters on one side to cut. Try moving the chain from side to side in the bar and see how much it wobbles from side to side. Other usual suspects are the rails uneven - best put the bar in a bench vice and lay a straight edge across it at different positions and check it is at right angles to the bar.
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Stihls are relatively easy to do, just get the piston stopped with either rope (making sure it doesn't go down the exhaust port or transfers) or the nylon double ended Stihl stop, place the socket on the clutch and place the saw on the floor, foot in the rear handle, hand on the top handle, use a decent length socket wrench and pop, off it will come. Done loads and never a real issue - had to grind flat the rolled edges of an impact socket once as the nut was a bit shagged but it popped off just fine! It really is no biggie IMO:001_rolleyes:
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Get a cast iron bath, get a load of US transducers and JB weld them to the underneath.....can ya tell where this is going yet...........get one big feck off output card and there you go, a Redneck US cleaner - think I may patent it for use with grease monkeys like us! One a serious note, I read of a sub mariner who stuck his feet in an industrial US cleaner and his bones shattered when he stood up - sounds horrific:thumbdown: Don't know how true it was!
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Same here, in the early years, I used Ryobi bio oil and it gummed up my bars when left on the shelf - spawn of beelzebub IMO I have 5l of solvent from my screen printing days that disolves this stuff and pine resin.....plus some plastics:blushing: Hope it never runs out!
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The most common causes are a plugged bar, blocked oil channel, plugged oil pump, blocked tank breather or blocked oil pickup in the tank. Check the bar oiler hole, flush the oil tank out with fuel and try new oil with a 3:1 mix oil to fuel to flush it out. If this doesn't work it will be a case of removing the clutch and covers, removin the oiler and then checking the pump isn't blocked with a plug of fine sawdust - wiggling it out with wire and blasting a bit of WD40 or carb cleaner down each hole will clear it. You may have a stripped oiler pinion gear so check this but it is not common on these saws. Good luck
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You evev seen that film "Twins",I am 6'2"that makes you the short fat one:lol:
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Forget welding it, there is a lot of magnesium in the casing alloy and personally, I don't think it will work. My suggestion is to take off the chain catcher and the dog spikes, modify the lower part of the dogs by welding in a further plate so it mounts to the chain catcher mount - you could even make a chain catcher in to the assembly but it would be of steel rather than aluminium which may cause damage to a chain when coming off. DON'T leave the chain catcher off if you do this for obvious reasons!
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Mmmm, I dont think so!
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We're still here,wading through other people's problems as usual:001_rolleyes: Nice to see you back, hope all is well with you?
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Probably just needs a bit if carb adjustment or possibly a good carb clean and new carb kit!
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Hope the other guy ws suitably peed off:lol:
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When I heard the news of him being arrested I thought.........no, not another celeb being a kiddie fiddler and felt quite relieved it was hiring a hitman and drugs - strange old world but thats.....ROCK AND ROLL:thumbup:
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Putting Aspen in a second hand saw can I just fill it up and go?
spudulike replied to hamilton32's topic in Chainsaws
On saws that have been exposed to pump fuel, you generally get a hardening of fuel lines causing eventual leaking of fuel. This is more down to the damage the pump fuel has done than the Aspen. I usually change carb parts and fuel lines when converting saws as I preffer to ensure issues are stopped before they are.........issues:thumbup: -
The other thing to leak black oily gunge will be the exhaust if it is running a bit rich or perhaps the upper shaft if it has been greased heavily but if it is coming from behind the flywheel, it sounds like bearings/seal. A bad crank bearing generally makes a rumbling hollow sound and can rattle on a slow idle - pushing the flywheel up and down and side to side should reveal a bit of play if it is shot!
