spudulike

Ah, that's the devils lead - the saw won't work on a Sunday with a red lead:001_rolleyes:

Limit caps stop this in a more acceptable manner but more importantly, the "e carbs" stop people like you or I fixing/repairing them or getting any data off them....unless you have shelled out on expensive software and interface cable or are a dealer! I know you can't stand in the way of progress but reliability out in the field is what these guys need and I know when I fire up an auto tune, it is damn weird not to be grabbing for the tuning screw driver to set it up - and if it won't run right......?????? I have no answers either!

Unfortunately - I think you are right:thumbdown: Time may well improve these auto-tune machines but fuel system issues are one of the most common faults and it doesn't help having sealed units where you can't clean out any resins or shyte from the internals, non adjustable carbs are also a real issue. Until these fuel systems are like the ones on your car, the reliability will always be an issue! They are very clever at maximising torque and top end power but a lower powered saw is better than a non working one. Glad your ported saw has proved to be reliable - all good:thumbup:

Hows the 372XP Chris - still going strong:001_huh: Got to say I like the 3 series Huskys the best!

A limited coil will rev to the limited rpm and then it will flash up spurious rpm on the tach and will not rev above the max revs of the coil. You can ease the revs up bit by bit on the throttle to measure where the coil is limited. 8krpm sounds very low by modern standards - a small 50cc saw should be 13krpm - 14.5krpm. Often the manufacturers stamp the max revs on the coil body - well Husky do:thumbup: and they are blue in colour

A fair price IMO, I would sell unless you are skint and it is the only running saw you have.

Just use it, if it pops, investigate fitting a new cylinder and piston. It is rare a seize causes issues with the bottom end.

It looks like there is no useful advice here:001_rolleyes: just a load of piss takers as usual:lol:

Well that isn't too shabby:thumbup: My mod usually gains 15-20psi. Go careful with that first pull as my modified saws have buggered up a large number of Schrader valves on Gunson compression gauges - best give the thing a few slow pulls to get some pressure up first! A warm/hot reading will also register a lower compression than stone cold plus a machine that hasn't run for a long while will read less as the oil and fuel will have dried off from around the ring and piston lowering the sealing around the piston.

Just got a cheap meter with four prongs, it does the job. On two year seasoned wood it goes down to 15%, on year seasoned wood 20-25% on green or damp wood it is 30-40% on kiln dried softwood building timber - down to 5%. It works, it tells me I can burn wood at under 25% and indicates if the timber is seasoned or not. You need to push the prongs in reasonably firmly but that is pretty obvious - all you are doing with these things is measuring the conductivity of the wood after all!

Yes, it is deceased, it is no more, it is a dead saw:thumbdown:

I took a look at the 560XP before I packed it up to send it back - you may remember that the stuffer had disintegrated and taken out the top end. My findings were that the exhaust port can be widened and the shape can be significantly changed to increase flow. The inlet port hasn't got a massive amount to be done although the manifold had a lip on it and could have been a better fit. I was impressed by the straight run from the carb in to the cylinder - no chance of impeding the flow there! The uppers could be taken back a little but only on the top as they are very close to the air ports for the Husky version of Strato transfers. I didn't look too much at the lowers but no doubt they could be flowed somewhat as well. The muffler was pretty choked with baffle plates - getting rid should help a lot! That's about it, didn't get the time to put the timing wheel on it or experiment with squish etc. All in all, you can see why the saw pulls like a horse - straight inlet tract, transfers to the front of the saw for maximum velocity aided by the crank and an acute exhaust exit angle to aid scavenging - very nice design in this saw!

There isn't a massive amount of traditional porting you can do on these saws but the flow can be increased with mods to the exhaust and piston plus the squish can be lowered.

Thanks, been a long time in the coming - just too busy fixin saws:001_rolleyes:

I would mod a 200T above any other topper - did one recently with a new piston that pulled 210psi warm and was fourstroking at 15krpm Just my opinion!

The 357 has quite an easy pull to it even without using the decomp - it is the extra advance on mine that catches you out when it refuses to pull over - the saw has a pop up piston which gives it a little extra although 200 psi is possible with the standard piston and no base gasket!

A hone is a rod with two or three sprung legs with small grinding blocks on each. you put it up the bore with a little oil and spin it round with a drill. they are only good on the compression stage of the bore on open transfers but work all the way down on closed transfers. You dont need too much use, just enough to break the shine/glaze on the bore - the risk is that they will go through the plating but never seen it happen! It aids the run in period with a new piston and works well IMO and from experience!

You would love mine then - it kicks back a bit - 220psi and an ignition mod - tends to hurt a bit now and then if not shown a fierce starting technique.

My good friend Martin "Burrell" droped off some prime milled Elm some two years ago so I could make a small rustic table for our garden. It has taken me forever to have time to do it but thanks to some saws not turning up for service........the job got done:thumbup: Thanks Martin, top guy:thumbup:

The piston has signs that it has had a slight seize or a little carbon damage as it has some scoring but not really bad to render the saw inoperable. The compression would show if the saw had seen better days or not. Personally, I would check that the plating on the cylinder bore is good and if so, fit a quality replacement piston - Meteor are pretty much the best after OEM. The original cylinder will always be the best option unless scored or the plating has gone - you will see the aliminium coming through the plating. I usually LIGHTLY hone the cylinder and fit a new piston, it is always worth pressure/vacuum checking the saw, especially an older one and then resetting the carb on rebuild. Be careful not to hone too heavilly but have had good results using one as it beds the new piston in double quick. Goodluck

And your info is all correct - my seals comment was just based on the age of a 181SE and that the seal on the clutch side is likely to be a bit shabby by now but could be a dirty carb, fuel line, blocked tank breather etc etc All good advice and I wasn't knocking what you said:thumbup:

No OEM dual port available but you may be able to get an aftermarket one. The kickback you talk about - is that the typical "cutting with the top quadrant of the bar" type or when you get compression on the bar in the cut and it throws you back? Were you doing some sort of bore cut - just interested - these saws do cut pretty fast and need to share any info like this for safety sake! First I have heard of this so interested in what caused it as flat out chain speed isn't appreciably changed but in the cut it will keep up a faster speed but would be similar to a 560XP!

Cutting with the end of the bar will put less strain on the engine and possibly hide the fact the engine is lacking guts. I think yours is more engine related than clutch as when you have the OPs fault, the saw revs like it should but you literally polish the wood away rather than chipping it out of the cut - I have had it a couple of times and it throws you at first! If your saw has one of those early steel wire airfilters, they can let a lot of fine dust through leading to wear on the inlet side of the cylinder. Once through the plating, the cylinder is scrap! One thing to point out is cutting with the tip of the bar can be dangerous - NEVER cut with the top end of the bar on the bar sprocket as it can lead to a bad kickback!! If you know this then ignore - if you don't, make note!

"Devious" mods eh:lol: I have brazed in an extra pipe and also opened up the original outlet before, either will work! No photos - sorry.

That's because I am on my phone and predictive text is a PITA:lol: Many things can cause this type of issue and a good tech will investigate them:thumbup: