spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The muffler is the easiest part to mod and if it all goes wrong - it doesn't cost too much to return it to standard. It would be an interesting project but it may mean me having to purchase one to see what is possible:001_rolleyes:
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This is a very stange question, maybe the strangest one ever. The saw has no battery so doesn't really have a positive or negative earth as such. the earth we talk about is taking the coil kill wire down to the body of the saw to stop the spark and that is about all. Why do you need to know????
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No, it is a third party engineering firm that were tasked with putting it together. The UK Husqvarna Sales Manager was trying to get some adjustable H screw carbs for the saws that they provided for the project. They are the same team that do the Robot War demonstrations at Gadget Show Live - that is where we met......nice bit of kit, some good work has gone in to it but those saws need a bit of fettling to get the power up!
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Had some very interesting news today, it seems I am PMing a member on this site all the time asking for his help on how to fix saws. I have only ever had help from Barrie (Gardenkit) on a few tricky spares and also Burrell (Martin) who kindly has done some machining for me to my specification and it was neither of them:001_rolleyes: I have discussions on porting with WYK (Wes) but that is very much a sharing of interests rather than help - sort of US meets UK:thumbup: Wasn't him either! I guess I should laugh at it as it has shown up someone elses insecurity but am none to happy TBH!
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Perhaps it is time to get a real saw and move on - I have a small wood burner but have a Stihl 066, 009 and Husqvarnas 346XP, 357XP & 181SE....probably more than the average Pro Overkill but fun:thumbup:
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One thing is for sure - a blower is the fastest way of getting a Chimnea, BBQ or fire pit going in record time:thumbup:
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That Gadget show dragster isn't ported, it has expansion pipes only, Our company exhibit there and I had a long chat with the fella that put it together. He was trying to get hold of adjustable H screw carbs for it last time I spoke to him!
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If the sprocket or rim is say 0.325" then the bar MUST be a 0.325 one, you also need to match the chain gauge to the bar as well - 1.6mm is common on most bigger Stihls so in short, the sprocket/rim, bar and chain have to be matched in pitch & gauge plus drive link count for the chain. Try this for the MS261 Clutch Assembly for Stihl MS261 | L&S Engineers
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That seems the best way of removing it without stripping it down, You will need to rotate the crank so the piston drops below the exhaust port and the rope can be pulled out with tweezers. Once removed, check that all the rope is out and spin the saw to make sure there is no restriction.
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Correct:thumbup1: oil technology has improved meaning a 50:1 mix is fine in this old banger of a saw.
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Pretty much what I would do, the Stihl double ended plastic stop can be used as can this rope method but don't use the metal screw in stop or by jamming anything in any of the ports. The nut will come off anti clockwise, the method above should work, if not then a set of pullers will be needed or sometimes a screwdriver can be tapped in behind the flywheel and a sharp crack on the crank end shoulf shift it. Note the flywheel key and make sure it aligns when the flywheel is replaced.
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Around 10-15 tanks, I have seen saws of a year or two old still have hone marks on the bore but it is the first few tanks where the bore is pretty rough that more heat will be generated and you want the piston ring to wear in to the same shape as the bore. If you go flat out for very long cuts the saw may be fine but in general it is better to do lighter work at FULL throttle and let it idle for a while or switch it off to cool so the heat is dissipated. Basically, the bore and ring are a bit rough when new, the bore will smooth with a few hours running and if the ring isn't worn to shape during this period, it will take much longer when the bore is smooth hence running the saw flat out and for short periods. Running a saw on half throttle isn't good either, they need either idle or flat out to be used as this is how they are set up to run.
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From what I can see, the 261 will take a rim or spur sprocket of either 3/8 or 0.325. On a saw of this size a 0.325 would be a reasonable choice. The 291 appears to only have a spur sprocket available and the 0.325 has the part number 1141 640 2001 so to make your 291 run on the same bar and chain as the 261, you will need to purchase a new 0.325 sprocket. This is the 7T option, there is also a 8T option - the parts list is here - http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/2848953/ms271-parts-list-pdf-june-3-2011-11-09-am-704k?da=y
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My BG85 coil wasn't limited so was able to get a bit more out of it. I didn't want it to be stupidly loud as I use it around my property - usually to mess up the wifes hair, gives me a laugh:blushing: Video - really.....it isn't that interesting:lol:
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Mmm - I ported my strimmer, hedge cutter, blower and every saw I have:blushing: Guess I can't help myself:lol:
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I don't quite follow your statement but in my experience, if the flow of the engine is increased through porting/mufler mod, the flow through the carb is increased and generally, this will pull through more fuel with the carb settings left on standard settings. The carb will generally need leaning up slightly on a ported engine to obtain the correct mix and the extra engine flow will increase the power and allow the blower to run faster/higher revs - well that is what occured on mine when I played with it!
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I drilled the exhaust making the tube coming from it pretty thin. I also lowered the squish and ported my BG85, it pulls around 9500rpm rather than the standard machines circa 7500rpm.......TBH, I was bored one day:001_rolleyes:
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The Devil will find work for idle hands to do:thumbup:
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Rev it hard for short periods, it is the build up if excessive heat that should be avoided. You basically want the piston and ring to wear in on the freshly honed bore whilst it is new and rough. Running it in slow will glaze the bore and stop this happening. Flat out in the cut for short periods.
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Thanks for letting us know, you got away very lightly - had an 084 in once that had actually banged the front half of the cylinder out of the casting when this had happened. It is lucky it didn't seize - just shows you to be vigilant if the saws top revs seem high or the idle changes for no reason! A good ending!
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For the novice, this is a difficult job. The last one I did was a 660, the bar side case came off fine, the other side was a bitch with the crank taking the bearing out if the casing with it. I used pullers on the bearing and it still wouldn't move and ended up using heat which did it but trashed the bearing. Others have been a breeze - thats life. You could give it a go but either little engineering skills, it may be easier to strip it and get the job done elsewhere!
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Generally dealers will write a saw off with bottom end issues out of cost. Splitting the cases and doing this sort if work is about as in depth as it gets. The main issue is driving off the case and bearing cleanly from the crankshaft. The ball races have a tendency to stick on the crankshaft - last one I did actually pushed the bearing clean out if the cases and was near impossible to get off the crankshaft. Generally having a big G clamp,a big bench vice and a crank splitter makes life easier but these type of jobs are generally never text book!
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The older Huskys are pretty bulletproof, I would replace the crank seals and take a judgement on the crank bearings. Make sure ALL the crank bolts are out and cross your fingers on the crank coming out of the bearings so it splits. I made a splitter and it works a treat - bolts on to the bar mount bolts - in your case, dont ever use a hammer, always a mallet on the crank or casings and remember the casings are very thin alloy.
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Back tomorrow, just filling in time before more beer food and vino.........it is a hard life:thumbup:
