spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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No worries, the saw of yours should work pretty well now, no need to think it hasn't had much done to it, it has:thumbup:
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Thought it was a Springsteen track or did I get it wrong:confused1:
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It is another of those accidents that happen when you use a tool with one hand that must be used with two for total control. Not done it with a saw but an angle grinder and hedge trimmer have bitten me in the past - only slightly but felt pretty dumb afterwards. The top handled saw he was using doesn't help much either!
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Older saws generally have less restriction in them so not worth modding as Eddie says, 020 is worth doing.
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There wasn't anything to laugh about on that porting work. The timing was pretty much bang on and the compression damn good
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The limiters are basically a way the manufactures stop idiots who don't have a clue adjusting their carbs and seizing their machines. The limiters can be removed completely or the tabs cut off but make sure you actually know what you are doing - the H screw is the one that does the damage if leaned up too much!
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Martin............They look sort of Pink.............is there anythig you want to share with us:lol:
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The porting I do will be for every day use and should give good power increase whilst not giving detrimental decreases in operating hours.
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Not at all:lol: I will provide the cookies though:thumbup:
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Just re-ported my 357 & 346 plus now have an 066 of questionable ability and lots of trick work done to it:lol: When you are ready........
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The first one I did literally scared me it was so different when I ran it up:blushing:
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Ray has made some valid points,sounds like a bad air leak has seized the saw. You have fixed the piston and cylinder but not the cause of failure. Get the saw checked for leak down under pressure and vacuum or it will most likely fail again.
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Yes, in sunny Croatia
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possible light seize, worth getting a glimpse of the piston through the exhaust port and if that is OK, perhaps it is air leak in the inlet manifold or impulse line! Also worth checking the gauze strainer in the carb - another common fault.
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I have seen a few carbs with the pumping diaphragm being placed next to the cover and the gasket being placed on the carb body - it gives a saw that will fire but little else! One thing worth a try is to take all the fuel out of the carb pumping and metering sections - just remove the covers to drain it. Replace the covers and fit it. Put the saw on full choke and pull it over 15 times and then strip the carb to see if there is fuel in both the pumping section AND the metering section - this will give an idea where the carb is failing. DON'T USE THE PRIMING BULB THOUGH!!! worth checking the fuel line, tank breather and fuel filter as well!
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Lets get a couple of things clear and not saying you may not know this.........the "CHECK VALVE" is the one way valve that stops air being pulled down the high speed jet in to the diaphragm metering section of the carb - they are generally brass and alow the flow of fuel in to the throat of the carb when the carb throttle valve is opened and stops the reverse flow of air when the throttle is closed - with a straight jet, the idle would be somewhat non existant. This is the check corectly outlined by Wiscobandit above. The pressure check I was talking about was the "POP OFF" test and that is checking the needle valve is working correctly by putting a pressure gauge on the fuel inlet connector and making sure the needle is holding pressure. if it isn't, the symptoms are lack of starting and possible flooding of the engine.
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346XP.....357XP........MS200T.........254XP......066 but remember I mostly fix saws, port others and only cut my firewood. The 346XP has to be the best sounding ported saw, the pickup is like no other:thumbup:
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Soccer is spacer, lumped is pumped, bloody predictive text is not very predictive
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Worth checking the orientation of the soccer between the diaphragm and carb body and also the pumping diaphragm and spacer gasket. The thin polyester pumping gasket should be next to the carb body. Also worth checking the carb holds pressure when lumped against the fuel inlet. Good luck
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Looks like the OP has vapourized in to thin air:001_rolleyes:
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The common causes are neat fuel/old fuel, lean carb settings or sir leaks
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If it is the Xtorq, get the 365 and modify the transfer covers, if it is the XP, the 372XP is best - same weight give or take but more go and power on the 372XP!
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From the photos, it looks like they are plugged with a welch type plug - not sure if conventional screws will be found under these plugs (the two golden coloured ones) but it may well be worth popping one out and seeing what lies beneath:scared1:
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It is a safety device, no bodges is a sensible way of repairing:thumbup:
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Thanks Eddy:thumbup:
