spudulike

Ray has made some valid points,sounds like a bad air leak has seized the saw. You have fixed the piston and cylinder but not the cause of failure. Get the saw checked for leak down under pressure and vacuum or it will most likely fail again.

Yes, in sunny Croatia

possible light seize, worth getting a glimpse of the piston through the exhaust port and if that is OK, perhaps it is air leak in the inlet manifold or impulse line! Also worth checking the gauze strainer in the carb - another common fault.

I have seen a few carbs with the pumping diaphragm being placed next to the cover and the gasket being placed on the carb body - it gives a saw that will fire but little else! One thing worth a try is to take all the fuel out of the carb pumping and metering sections - just remove the covers to drain it. Replace the covers and fit it. Put the saw on full choke and pull it over 15 times and then strip the carb to see if there is fuel in both the pumping section AND the metering section - this will give an idea where the carb is failing. DON'T USE THE PRIMING BULB THOUGH!!! worth checking the fuel line, tank breather and fuel filter as well!

Lets get a couple of things clear and not saying you may not know this.........the "CHECK VALVE" is the one way valve that stops air being pulled down the high speed jet in to the diaphragm metering section of the carb - they are generally brass and alow the flow of fuel in to the throat of the carb when the carb throttle valve is opened and stops the reverse flow of air when the throttle is closed - with a straight jet, the idle would be somewhat non existant. This is the check corectly outlined by Wiscobandit above. The pressure check I was talking about was the "POP OFF" test and that is checking the needle valve is working correctly by putting a pressure gauge on the fuel inlet connector and making sure the needle is holding pressure. if it isn't, the symptoms are lack of starting and possible flooding of the engine.

346XP.....357XP........MS200T.........254XP......066 but remember I mostly fix saws, port others and only cut my firewood. The 346XP has to be the best sounding ported saw, the pickup is like no other:thumbup:

Soccer is spacer, lumped is pumped, bloody predictive text is not very predictive

Worth checking the orientation of the soccer between the diaphragm and carb body and also the pumping diaphragm and spacer gasket. The thin polyester pumping gasket should be next to the carb body. Also worth checking the carb holds pressure when lumped against the fuel inlet. Good luck

Looks like the OP has vapourized in to thin air:001_rolleyes:

The common causes are neat fuel/old fuel, lean carb settings or sir leaks

If it is the Xtorq, get the 365 and modify the transfer covers, if it is the XP, the 372XP is best - same weight give or take but more go and power on the 372XP!

From the photos, it looks like they are plugged with a welch type plug - not sure if conventional screws will be found under these plugs (the two golden coloured ones) but it may well be worth popping one out and seeing what lies beneath:scared1:

It is a safety device, no bodges is a sensible way of repairing:thumbup:

Thanks Eddy:thumbup:

Shock horror:001_rolleyes: I have worked on a couple of the convential carb models and had very stupidly thought the MS362-C was standard carb and MS362 C-M or MS362 C-MQ were the Mtronic ones:001_rolleyes: If it is under warranty then get it back to the seller - these autotune carbs are a PITA in my opinion, great when they work but awful when playing up - you just can't get a logical angle or feel on them. Normal carbs can be bad enough but these.......and the software is damn expensive - not even sure the Stihl version is available to us mere mortals:sneaky2:

Personally, I would simply readjust the carb and then try again, if it still plays up, the carb has an accelerator pump and would replace it and then readjust. I would b surprised if the arb still played up after that. If the first tune didn't work, I would also replace the carb diaphragms gaskets and needle valve just to make sure. Carb adjustment - get the saw on an even idle if possible - if it won't idle then adjust the idle screw until it does. If it still won't idle, put the screws back on factory setting and try again. You may have limiters on the adjusters, personally I hate them as it stops you having full control of adjustment and the REAL FEEL of what the engine is doing. Anyway - the L screw (nearest the engine) should be wound in slowly and a peak in revs will be reached just before the engine starts to die, wind the screw back out, past the peak and out around 1/4 turn until the engine note changes to a slightly uneven poppy idle. Adjust the idle so it is fast enough to be even but not spin the chain. Try that - if it is no better and you are confident on rebuilding the carb - give Rowena Motors a shout and they will do the carb kit I mentioned - be aware that the accelerator pump mod needs the throttle valve and shaft removing and this can be a tricky job for both the novice and experienced alike. The accelerattor pump going symptoms are generally an uneven idle, often being fine and then picking up to a fast idle and then pop, the engine dies. Also bogging sometimeswhen revving off the idle - a damn anoying issue normally!

I see "doing what comes naturally" and "food chain" being banded about but you have to remember MAN introduced the cat in to the british countryside. I have no issue with the sparrowhawk that frequents our garden taking birds, dont like seeing it but THAT is nature. A few years ago man put Mink in to our waterways and it decimated out indiginous species - Water Vole, Otter etc ..........sounds a bit familiar???

I think the main issue here is that most dogs will be kept within the confines of their owners property and in the main, do not go round killing our wildlife unless bred to do so and show their owners some respect and loyalty. Cats on the other hand, they walk in to other peoples gardens, crap on their pea shingle/freshly dug veggie patch, kill the birds/mice etc in the garden and in our case, totally ignore the rats that nest under our shed so I have to shoot them...the rats that is! We have a rich variety of birds in the back garden down to us feeding them and to see many of the fledglings taken out by cats owned by others which isn't particularly nice. We had a fledgling blackbird once that had been disowned by its parents, we fed it all day to the point that it followed us in to the house but had to push it out for the night - next morning....the wife caught a cat ripping it apart! Not sure I like cats too much for this reason - If cats were kept in their owners gardens, it wouldn't be so much of an issue, but they aren't!

Scrench X2:thumbup:

Never had an MS200 in with a 16" bar fitted, typically 14" or a few on 12" if the owner wants a bit of zip and only cuts smaller limbs.

The most common reasons for seized saws are: - 1) Incorrect carb H screw setting 2) Old fuel where the petrol has destroyed the two stroke oil in the mix 3) Air leak - typically crank seals, split inlet manifold or impulse line 4) Split fuel line 5) Blocked fuel tank breather The description "I noticed the piston top appears to be broken around the top " needs clarifying as a seize causes little damage to the piston crown but does cause bad scoring predominantly on the exhaust port side. Not too much will destroy a piston crown, heavy detonation, a dropped decomp valve, ingress of a nut/screw into the carb, snagged ring on the downward power stroke are a few and numptey maintenance with misguided use of piston stops should be included!

I will see if the courier can really lose the saw this time:001_rolleyes:

Nice buy, good price, worth at least double that!

Bless you:lol:

I remember the outbreak of Kawasaki GPZ bikes at the Pod in the 80s, those 750 Turbos were fast bikes then - see yours is a tad faster now:thumbup: