spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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These cheapo saws tend to need a bit of a retune at some stage in their lives, you may get away with just increasing the idle speed (big screw on its own) or tweaking the L screw - the one nearest the engine of the two small side by side ones. You will probably find the screws have splined heads and will need a special tool to adjust them - that's life:thumbdown: the screws will only need adjusting if the saw isn't picking up well or not revving out OK.
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Mmmm, you can look a cool dude with the saw I did for you though:lol:
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I have seen a 3/8 chain and bar used on a 0.325" sprocket before now:001_rolleyes: Running out of ideas, the clutch may just be a red herring and perhaps the engine is just a bit slack on power - what sort of compression has it got? I have had 190psi before now on freshly rebuilt MS260s!
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I know you can get cheaper but meant this as a heads up if anyone is looking for a posh pair of shades for a summer holiday or for "best" down the pub:001_rolleyes: They really are good value - the pair I just purchase are £240 in Sunglass Hut, mine were just over £80 on a 15% discount code:thumbup: Not for everyone I know but good value IMO My first pair of Ray Bans were Wayfarers from the early 80s inspired by Miami Vice on the TV, think I paid around £70 and they are still worth around £50 as they are in decent condition - that's the benefit of decent glass lenses in non sporting sunglasses:thumbup:
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Very true - what happens if you rev it full tilt and wang the chain brake on? I if the clutch is a bit dodgy, you would expect the chain to stop and the engine to still pull higher revs than would be expected. Normally the saw revs are stifled as all power is lost - if yours still revs out, you have massive clutch slip - don't do it for any length of time as it will start producing a lot of heat. IMO, grease and oil never really causes any discernible amount of clutch slipping if the parts are in good condition.
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The flywheel key is in fact a woodruff key, the latter being the engineering term for the former and usually refers to the way gears are located on shafts:thumbup: Some machines have small steel ones that insert in to the crankshaft (like Stihl), others have moulded keys actually on the flywheel - I have seen both shear in the past. If you are very careful/lucky, you can realign the flywheel with the moulded key type on to the crank stub again - I have used a smear of JB weld and an inordinate amount of torque but it worked. Getting the timing 100% is key.....or just fit a new flywheel!
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Not sure what others are seeing but it looks fine to me - this is an image of an OEM unit: - Looks as it should IMO, it may be worth putting a vid up on the site as to what it is doing as this sounds a bit weird!
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Yes Barrie but there is "knackered! and "REALLY KNACKERED":sneaky2: Just done a blower and it is totally FUBARed:thumbdown:
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The L screw will be typically set at one turn - if the engine idles well, it may be OK but can be checked by winding it in until bedded and turning out one turn. Don't use excessive force when doing it up though!
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Sometimes if the carb has been left standing and dry, the gauze can look clean but actually be blocked by a transparrent residue. Worth pulling it out to check it against a bright light!
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Seeing as summer is here and I have a liking for quality sunglasses but don't like the price, I started looking for sites online to see what was available and found this Spanish site -http://www.visual-click.com/en They offer some pretty impressive discounts on the big name brands and also good service. Having purchased a pair of Persols, the buggers sent me a 15% discount code for the same brand :sneaky2:so got myself another pair:blushing: Their prices are around £80 - 100 for glasses that you will pay another £60 - 100 in the high street:thumbup: Worth checking them out if you re in the market - the wife has just got a pair
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My money was on an FS400:lol: reset the H screw as I described, hopefully it will get it back!
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You can use a quality pair of side cutters on the screw thread if the cross head has failed - there is no guarantee the head won't come off though! The cutters should be vertical to the carb and the cutter ends embedded in to the head on either side if that makes sense!
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The back fire leads me to believe it may be the flywheel key has let loose or possibly the coil is shifting the ignition timing. A back fire will occur when the ignition is very retarded or in laymans terms - when the piston is on the way down and not just before top dead centre. Excess fuel in the exhaust can also produce a bang or two. I would pull the flywheel and inspect the key for starters. If the engine has compression and isn't knocking badly, it sounds like it has life left in it. Also check the exhaust hasn'tgot unburnt fuel in it. Interesting one - be careful running it before checking the flywheel - ignition happening out of time can cause piston melt down!
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The mesh strainer sounds very likely, check the fuel line isn't holed and before you write the ignition model off, try regapping it with slightly less gap - sometimes if the gap is slightly too large, they can spark when cold but go when warm. Worth checking the rest of the carb over as well.
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Your description sounds a little vague, it could be that the needle valve has been glued in - now that is a strange one, never heard of that before!! A deep ultrasonic clean may well do it, depends on the power of the cleaner and if it is heated.
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Try turning the H screw (furthest away form the Engine) all the way in and then out 1 - 1 & 1/4 turns what the feck is B400 anyway:confused1:
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Get carb kits from Hugo at Rowena Motors - damn good value and helpful as well:thumbup: Usual delivery is 24hrs as well!
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The best non OEM piston will be the Meteor one, I have fitted many and with no issues. The real cheap ones are.....well.....really cheap so is it worth risking bad circlips or brittle rings??? Meteor ones are circa £25-30, a bad piston could take the top end out and result in a real expensive repair and more importantly, downtime!! The carbs - I have only ever had to replace one carb. Faults can often be fixed by the more experienced tech but some will fit new just as it is easier and quicker for them to do so. I can spend an hour on one to resolve a running issue as I just give a fixed price repair - my time my choice! The main thing to do is to verify the parts do need changing and the cost of them makes for a viable repair! Some may just fit them as "it may be the issue" rather than KNOWING it is the issue!
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You were lucky to split the muffler cases, most will not split!
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Thats a welch plug, it covers the low speed jets, if it leaks you will get an uneven idle and it should be a tight fit in the hole. if it leaks really badly, the saw won't start. Put a little superglue around it. trying not to get it on the jets and then work in a little more around the plug. any leakage is bad news and is a common issue on all types of carbs with these oval plugs!
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These ones are about the easiest ones to do, put on the safety specs, place the bent end in the plastic moulding and feed it in holding it in place with both thumbs, it really isn't difficult:001_rolleyes:
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get rid of any aluminium by cleaning it with solvent and abrasive paper followed by acid or alkali to get rid of it and then use a very light hone if needed. The piston will be an issue due to its domed top - unusual with modern saws. you will need to match the dome height, crown to pin centre and the height of the piston - all are critical to making compression and timing. The diameter will obviously also need to match!
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The bore is chrome plated aluminium, there is no way that can be rebored. Put a pic up, is it really that bad. Most of the time, these can be saved if they are not too bad, The ones that I have had most trouble with are the real high revving Huskys, the 550XP and 346XP have a tendency to score the cylinder as well as transfer aluminium. If the bore is fixable, the next job is to try to get a similar piston and then modify it to fit!
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I am sure Wes will be about soon to give an opinion but thought he rubs a mix similar to mine:confused1:
