spudulike

The Gunson compression gauge is fine and gives good results, I do pull the engine over in single pulses to build compression up to 100 before pulling it over hard as I have had the Schrader valves blow when measuring some higher compression saws but is more my type of work than the gauge. I have a bastardised Gunson Low gauge for vacuum and a Sealy brake bleader pump and gauge for vacuum - total cost for these two was around £45!

Not knocking your statement on the stock market but in reality, pension providers generally invest in big companies with sound trading and dividends. Their share price will go up and down but the only time you lose is if you buy high and sell when the price drops soon after. A pension is a long term investment and over a long period of time will keep up and even outstrip many other types of investment including property. When the stock market falls dramatically, that is a good time to buy more, when the markets are high, that is a good time not to buy. With pensions, these rise and falls are taken out of the equation by regular monthly purchases! All I know is that by the time I hit pension age, the state pension system will be in free fall with too many people claiming pension and not enough paying in - that is why the government are bringing in these new pension rules! The best time to start a pension is in your early 20s, easy to say but it gives 40+ years to rise in value, starting it at 45 only gives you 20+ years to accumulate through payments and more importantly, compound interest and dividend purchases in further shares - I am no expert but value the need to look after your old age - no one else will!!

Setting carb is a bit of a black art but once you have done a number, it becomes relatively easy or at least easier:thumbup: The art on the L screw is to wind it in until the idle speed rises and starts to falter and then to wind it back out around 1/4 turn - I go on the engine note to set it as it sounds sort of poppy but 1/4 turn from the peak should do it. The H screw can cause all sorts of issue - set it to as rich as the limiters will allow and see if it sounds OK. The best way to set it is with a tach but unless you know what you are doing, rich is preferable to lean and this can cause a seize.

5% is a healthy contribution, many just do 1%, the bare minimum and the good thing is that any pension contributions are pre tax so you are making pension payments that are free of tax:thumbup: I believe all companies over a certain size will have to offer a pension to their employees -it is in reaction to the ever increasing number of pensioners and the fact the government can't afford to give them a pension!

Typical things that cause these issues are accelerator pump issues or leaking welch plug, both are fixable. It is possible the saw has overheated and partially seized, if this has happened, the compression will have dropped off but removing the muffler will give you the answer on this one. A quick retune of the carb may fix the issue but if it doesn't, check the above.

I don't know the answer to your question but one thing is for sure, the earlier you start a pension, the more impact it will have on the final amount you have to retire on! If you leave this sort of decision to your 30s, you will be having to save double what you would if you start in your early 20s - it is all about compound interest and how equities gain in value over long periods of time - just depends what sort of retirement you want in your later life!

That..........thing is worthy of some of the kit I get in, we need to get compressor leaflets and send them out with the repaired and cleaned machines:001_rolleyes:

I may have to do that Patrick, got home to find the wife has spent £300 on curtains:lol: 3 weeks on a current production Stihl part is crazy, only had that once on a FS380 piston - out of production and a very old machine which is acceptable!

A broken clutch spring is possible. It is also possible you have some twine of fibrous debris wrapped around the crank end. Pull off the clutch drum and check out the above, grease the needle bearing, make sure the clutch has a little lube sprayed on it and try again - if the clutch drum is binding on the clutch or crank, this will have the effect you have. In all the above, I am assuming your idle is runing as normal - around 2800rpm.

Like others have said, the rounded end with the location dowel pushed through should be bent more and located firmly in to the plastic moulding. If the thing shows any sign of fracturing when bending, replace it. I would imagine this would fix it:confused1:

Sometimes I feel for posters when they get hacked down, the OP has purchased a saw for a price, that saw should look after him for many years:thumbup1: The important bit is that if the saw gives a few years fault free service, he will make his money back thousands of times over so the few quid he may or may not have spent over the top will be insignificant. I know having said this, someone will say - "well, what about warranty" - well, what about it! If you had seen a warranty claim that I have seen recently being turned down then you may have a different opinion! You have to remember the VALUE of the purchase and not the COST. If you don't understand this then.......the cost is the price in £££££, the value is the ability to go and earn a living:thumbup:

Depends on which saws you are doing but you can generally use sheets of rubber between carb and manifold and can sometimes use felt tip pens pushed in to tunes on some Huskys, the 576 was one I did like this. You just need to get inventive:thumbup:

Worth taking off the cover over the chain brake mechanism and blast it with the compressor and lube it.If it still does it, mod the outlet as Andy said, done a few now and not had any complaints..........yet:blushing:

All saws lose some compression when warm just through expansion and thinning of the oil but if it ges too hot through over fast running the piston exhaust side will start to melt and seize. I you have fresh fuel, the carb is correctly adjusted and no air leaks, all should be OK!

Right you asked, you set the carb to one turn out on each screw, get it running and set the idle so it is ticking over OK, you then turn the L screw in until the idle speed incteases and starts to falter, you then turn it out past the high point and around 1/4 turn out - the engine goes from an even idle and sounds sort of popity poppy:001_rolleyes: You then rev it a bit and make sure the pickup is good. Then you make sure that at flat out, the saw doesn't over rev, this is normally done with a tach and the manufacturers data or just make sure that the saw sounds a little flubby on the top end - if you don't know how this sounds, turn the screw out 2 turns and then take it in bit by bit until the saw runs cleanly with just a hint of fourstroking (flubbing)! That is how most of us do it - you can do more with timed cuts etc but this method gets us to 95% of where we need to be!

It is probably just over fuelling, try both H&L screw on 1.5 turns out on each and try again. I think both screws should be 1 turn out. The H screw is the one to make sure you don't lean down too much!

It doesn't have to look nice, just do the job and for a £5 length of thick angle iron off the bay, it worked remarkably well:thumbup: The bad point was a drill snapped whilst I was holding the thing and went straight through the fleshy part of my thumb - not nice:thumbdown:

And the one or two happy customers:blushing:

Will check it out but the last one I did was a good fit - not sure if the 180 had different variations in its lifetime but the early 066 Stihls had 8mm ends and ally flywheels but the power of the saw made the ends break so they fitted a 10mm end on it with the ally flywheel and then modified it to the nylon flywheel which I guess made the saw lighter, made it spin up faster and protected the crank. Driving the other end of the crank out was a PITA, the bearing came out with the crank and was not going to come off the crank shaft so a bit of heat shifted it. I am not happy with the effort I had to use to remove it so have a new one on order. Hope it goes back together easier! Shame after how well the splitter worked!

The top handle main body outer moulding only minus all the internal bits and the cover and side handle is part 1129 790 1015 and is £42. I may have a spare recoil cover but will need to make it worth my while digging it out and ensuring it is serviceable (spring, pawl and rope in good knick), wrapping and posting it etc PM me if you want me to delve in to my pile of crap as the wife calls it! I am guessing some time down the road, the next post will be that all the bits are there but the saw doesn't run:001_rolleyes: I would say that it is sometimes easier and cheaper to splash the cash and get a saw completely refurbished if you expect a solid years worth of reliable running out of it! What is the cost of a day or two downtime.............

It is a later 10mm and not the earlier 8mm, I fitted one of these cranks on a MS650 I rebuilt and all fitted OK - all nylon flywheels are 10mm.

I would try starting it without the decomp valve as sometimes it is easy to flood using it and without the decomp, it will be easier.

I thought you may pop up with a comment:lol: