spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I could do the work but it will have to be after Sept 22nd as I have other commitments and a two week break planned. If you do get someone to do it, make sure they try to salvage that cylinder and don't bugger it up as a new one will cost circa £300 with a piston against £30 for the Meteor one and a little work with chemical and a very light hone! It isn't difficult once you have done a decent number of cylinders and know what to do:thumbup:
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Sounds like the original mail was malicious and mix from eBay and it had put something nasty on your machine. Personally, I would run Malwarebytes on it!
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I have saved them before, you will need to do as Eddie has suggested, as well as seeing if the cylinder can be cleaned, and if it can - clean it and lightly abrade the bore and fit an OEM or Meteor piston and then do a full pressure and vacuum check plus the fuel system checks. If the saw is checkedover thoroughly and the bore is checked over and sorted, the saw should live again! Worst case is a new cylinder and piston will be needed.
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Think that is a 576 unless you have got some sort of bizzare Frankensaw in mind:lol:
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The 038 is an odd choice, pretty old school saw by now but good in it's day. The Husky 372/365 or Stihl MS460 would seem obvious choices.
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The guy only wants a fuel tank breather, you could try Garden Hire Spares or Green Stripe - both have been reliable for me.
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Fingers crossed, I have salvaged seized ones before with good results!
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The symptoms are consistant with a light seize, if you can't get it running right, it will be worth pulling the exhaust off and looking at the piston through the exhaust port. Any scoring and it is bad news. Other than that, a holed fuel line, blocked fuel tank breather and blocked carb internal fuel gauze strainer all can cause these issues. Worth checking the plug as well for colour and condition.
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:lol:
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Personally I use a cheapo Silverline job with a flexible drive, gotta say it hass been a good bit of kit:thumbup:
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It is what you are going to do with it that worries me!!!
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FS400 Brush Cutter... Carb or seals.. Vaccum test.
spudulike replied to champagnecharly's topic in Maintenance help
You will not that there are two small holes in the carb gasket, these MUST allign with the small impulse hole in the carb body and the cylinder. If it doesn't, the engine will not start. If the engine won't go, check for compression, spark and make sure the spark plug gets wet after a few pulls on choke. If the carb has been apart, make sure the gaskets are the right way round and correct, make sure the stud in the middle of the diaphragm is the correct length, make sure the choke mechanism is closing fully, make sure the fast idle system for cold start is opening the throttle. Take the spark plug out and turn the engine upside down and pull it over to make sure the engine isn't flooded. Check the coil to flywheel gap is the thickness of the average business card and make sure the flywheel is alligned with the key correctly. That should do it! -
Ebay if you can find one or if OEM, Garden Hire Spares, Greenstripe or your local dealer! Make sure the cylinder comes up before ordering anything.
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Did a 242 recently and it needed an open windowed piston as the transfers were closed, It was a Golf one from GHS. The closed piston will reduce the performance considerably if it isn't the correct one. Why not just remove the cylinder - it is a pretty quick job!
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Had this in on Thursday, a little bit of diversification on my side. Wouldn't start and a strong smell of petrol......badly flooded so took the choke off and gave it a fistfull on starting and bingo, one damn loud kiddies KTM fixed. Gave the neighbours a laugh racing up the road on it - got a bit wobbly at speed though:lol: must be my 6'2" frame and 14 stone:001_rolleyes:
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Just lock the crank in place using the Stihl plastic piston stop or recoil rope and then spin the nut off, you may need a puller on the flywheel then although sometimes lifting the engine by the flywheel and a sharp crack on the crank end with a hard mallet will shift it. If you can tap a big screwdriver between the crankcase and flywheel, it will help:thumbup:
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Get an awl or grind a very sharp point on a screwdriver. drive this in to the seal and prise it out. You can sometimes get a decent woodscrew to do up in to the hole and use that and a pair of grips to pop it out. I have used both methods for speed and ease
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I missed the bit about pulling up the chain:blushing: Thought we were looking at the bottom of the bar:001_rolleyes: TBH, I pull he chain up as I do the bar nuts up so the bar is pre tensioned upwards at teh tip - chocking up the end under the bar would have a similar effect. I then check to see if the chain hangs down off the bar and retension if loose and spin it round until it is semi tight on the bar.......it works for me!
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Good point Andy, it is why I always check this out on a repair even if the owner thinks he knows the reason for failure!
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The links should be completely hidden in the bar rails and if you pull on the chain and pull it round fast, it should keep going round for a short period after releasing it and not stop dead. The chain should also be smooth when pulling it round the bar.
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My first option would be to try to save the original pot and fit a quality aftermarket piston (If available) or the OEM piston. I have salvaged some pretty ropey cylinders in my time and as long as the plating is relatively OK, the piston will bed in OK. Other than that, Meteor kits are pretty much the best aftermarket kits and will give near OEM performance, Hyway are not bad Chinese kits but expect a looser piston fit and not the same level of finish. The main issues on these non OEM kits are loose piston fit, brittle piston rings, poor circlips, poor port bevel and different port timing. They are a cheap way out but maintain, if you can salvage the cylinder then do this! Unfortunately there are not too many parts available for your machine!
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I think it must have been me you hit as I had the same call and no recollection of any such accident!
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Over the last two years, 30% growth has been quite possible on equities, prices now are fluctuating down to these damn wars and issues in Russia, Ukraine, Iraq and Israel - they all seem to have an effect. If the Bank of England change their base rate of interest, be ready for the reduction or stagnation on housing values again. I can't see them being vicious enough to throw a large number of voters in to negative equity though, especially months before the General Election. It is all swings and roundabouts - one thing works for one and one for another. The only real answer I have on all of this is to work your proverbials off when you are young and get clever with any excess cash you have - the earlier you start, the more time it has to accumulate in value! Pensions, ISAs and property - all are valid and have their own pros and cons!
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When you put the exhaust back on, make sure the gasket isn't dislodged and covering the port - also, it worries me when people need a service manual - I usually only reference them when I need a specification or something won't move:lol:
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Busy weekend, got the two MS361s back together, stripped both carbs as both had uneven idles and fitted new accelerator pumps - thanks to Hugo at Rowena Motors for a bit of technical input. Go the MS660 back together with a new crank, did a bit of porting on it and all seems good. Started a clean, strip, port and rebuild on an MS200 and a 034. The 034is in good nick and is a bit of an old banger to be ported but will be interesting one to see how it turns out!
