spudulike

Just checked the service manual and the beading should point outwards toward the muffler - I didn't know either - most are a bit flat after a while on the saw!

Acid or alkali on the aluminium transfer to remove it, abrasive paper to remove the oxide residue and possibly a hone lightly used to finish.

Bugger:001_rolleyes:

Ah, thats £500 for you........ Not going to tell you my address now, thanks for the warning:thumbup:

Bit warm in the workshop today, reassembled the MS201 with the split manifold and the vinyl gloves filled with sweat so thought, stuff this and stripped down a bit - shorts only and did a bit more before knocking it on the head - just too damn hot! The 576XP is a little low on compression and doesn't like the decomp valve on starting, this saw has had a bit of traumer after a seize and someones bodged attempts at a repair so will probably drop the base gasket to up it a bit - compression will go up once the piston beds in a bit as well. Think the 365 and 372 can be a bit like this - well over 1mm squish so plenty to play with. Also just got in an MS210 and 230 to do Aspen conversions on, nice and clean for a change! They will have new carb kits and fuel lines, they were converted and are now bogging down so will hopefully be OK once done. Alsohave a 550XP to rebuild - another box of bits:001_rolleyes:

If it has any form of HT lead, a tach you use to tune a saw should do it! If this bit of kit is multi cylinder then the tach wil need to be set for 2 or 4 cylinder! Bear in mind I know saws and not the item of kit you have in mind!

Good deal, hope both parties wet away smiling:thumbup:

Looks like the chain burnt the wood on the way through - I get that sometimes on my ported stuff on 8 pin rims:001_rolleyes:

I guess you ae right Bob, they don't know what they missed:001_rolleyes:

Deep purple wrote Highway Star about their fire making prowess Nobody gonna take my car, I'm gonna race it to the ground Nobody gonna beat my car, it's gonna break the speed of sound Ooh it's a kindling machine it's got everything Like a drawing power big fat tires everything................

It is possible that air got in to the carb and made it run lean - I would whip the exhaust off and make sure the piston looks in good shape. TBH, if you are serious about collecting wood, do yourself a favour and buy a saw manufactured by one of the pro manufacturers. Something like a Stihl MS210/230 or Husqvarna 345/350 would work well:thumbup:

We will be round there Friday:thumbup:.............morning:lol:

The cylinder lining /plating very rarely wears out - only seen a couple that have gone and mostly due to inress of crap through the air filter. If it has seized, then as Ray suggests, fit a new piston and salvage the cylinder. It is very rare where one gets scored that bad it cant be cleaned up with the usual methods.

Stop bragging and hand over the dosh before we can find your friends Grandad:lol:

I can't believe Stihl would let third parties, Chinese or other use their moulds????? Typical issues of aftermarket kits are brittle rings, dodgy circlips and poor piston fit!

Well it shouldn't have seized then, best remove the spark plug and see if it will spin over and if that doesn't do it, remove the recoil cover, get a socket and wrench on the flywheel and see if the engine will turn - it may be something simple or possibly a busted ring! Other than a busted ring, may be a busted circlip or something jammed above the piston or in the crankcase - just go step by step!

Yup, trying to start with a 10mm hole isn't easy!

When you used it, did you put chain oil in the front tank and a petrol/two stroke premix at 50:1 ratio in the rear/handle tank? Or was it neat petrol:blushing:

And.....the budget:001_rolleyes: My Husqvarna faves - 357XP and 346XP, both will do what you want but factor in £300+ for one in nice condition, they are getting rare now but everything is manual not auto tune so easier for someone like me to service. Less money - 350/345, both good saws for homeowner/semi Pro New - 560Xp and 550XP - both autotune and probably the 560XP the better of the two. Stihl - MS260 - some like it, some hate it but very popular MS261 - again. some like it some hate it but it does have the tendency to eat clutch needle bearings. MS361 a little larger - not used one but supposed to be good! It all depends on how much folding stuff you have!

Been very busy as always, lots of kit flowing and ebbing:001_rolleyes: Just rebuilt a 242XP, the piston had signs it had seized and cleared, dropping the base gasket built up good compression but it ran like a bag of nails with lots of free porting around the inlet skirt so fitted a new one. Got it back together again and had some weird carb tuning issues - it would run rich and then BANG, straight up to 15300 rpm - the clutch side seal had leaked a little under vacuum so decided to change it and have yet to tach it but have gone as far as I need to - Oh - carb kit fitted as well! 576XP - seized and the cylinder was a bit pitted where someone had attempted to salvage the cylinder and left the chemical on:thumbdown: Cleaned and smoothed the cylinder, new aftermarket piston - just wasn't sure the cylinder was up to a new OEM one and will see how it goes - starts and runs OK and a relatively cheap repair. MS201 - the chain running on and the carb having little effect on the saws idle. Cleaned the carb and still no effect, drilled the H screw limiter so I could adjust it - no effect, checked the clutch side seal by pouring thick oil on it when running - no effect but did notice the revs changing when the saw was at different angles - found a split inlet manifold - now one on order. A 346XP (NE) - seized and filthy - brake handle buggered and parts missing:001_rolleyes: I have a scrapper so pulled the parts I needed, cleaned the cylinder which came up OK, bevelled the exhaust port and rebuilt - the clutch side seal had an epic leak under vacuum and pressure - bingo, that was the route cause of failure so have just fitted the new one, retested and is ready to tach - looking a damn sight cleaner than before:thumbup: Now got two 550XPs to build in to one working machine - a two day old one got a direct hit resulting in a broken crank case brake handle mounting lug. The owner has struck a deal with the owner of a buggered one that came in so will rebuild the parts in to a working saw....hopefully:lol:

These choices always start with budget and you also need to consider PPE if you have none. Would you consider second-hand or must it be new?

What you are doing is allowing the exhaust gasses out faster and allowing the carb to charge the combustion chamber up more efficiently. Drilling the exhaust does get the saw cutting harder - it is probably worth turning the H screw anti clockwise as far as the limiters will allow and keep an eye on the plug colour but you shouldn't have any issues. Just make sure that no metal swarf ends up in the exhaust once done - I have drilled a running saw before now to ensure the inside of the muffler stays clear of metal particles but make sure the brake is on! Start with a 5-6mm and end on a 10mm - One thing to bear in mind is if you employ workers and this is a saw you give to them to do there work, you may fall foul of the HSE if you mod it and there is an accident requiring over 2 days off work so go careful. If it is your own saw for personal use - go to it:thumbup:

How about most of the saws I have had in during the last month - boxes of bits and "I know it is old but can you fix it for a tenner"? It is when the majority of the saw is filled with woodchip and oil I reaalllyyyy love it:sneaky2: Beginning to see the saw for the shyte now:thumbup:

Splined round - http://www.4husqvarna.ro/fotky8943/fotov/_ps_4HUSQVARNA-135-IPL.pdf Hope this helps - go easy on the H screw, if you don't have the correct setting or a tach then I would set to 1& 3/4 turns out and screw in until the revs clean up but don't soar and then look at the plug colour after a few big cuts. Coffee brown is good:thumbup: The saw should "Fourstroke" a little on the top end and clear during cutting.