spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The 365 were never kings of compression - around 1-1.2mm of squish does that and can mean that the saw may not start on the decomp valve. The choke will be on when pulled out and this also engages a "fast idle" setting. When cold, the choke is pulled out until the saw fires and then is pushed in to start. When hot, pull the choke out and push it back in to start:thumbup: Always make sure the ignition switch is on to start the saw:001_rolleyes:
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Got an MS660 on the bench, came in after one of the owners lads got it stuck in the cut and appears to have removed the side cover and bang, the end of the crank has been busted off. A real bugger of a break but after discussion, we are trying an aftermarket crank and new seals. I have tried my new crank splitter and wow - top job, ten minutes later, one side is off but the other is being a real pig:001_rolleyes: Seems putting a busted drill through my thumb was worth it as it can take hours to split the cases on some saws! Think I have got Rich's Australian pics on this one - seem to be upside down:lol:
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Most saws are one turn out on each but there are some exceptions. The L screw generally won't be a risk to the saw but the H screw if wound in too far will cause a lean seize. If the carb is coming off, get some carb cleaner down the H and L screw hole plus check the fuel strainer under the cover held on by the single large screw.
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Sounds like good advice - I use two gauges, one for each and the whole kit cost well under £50 and has saved me days worth of time and my customers seized saws:thumbup:
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Most of the times, giving the L screw 1/4 turn anti clockwise and re-adjusting the idle will do it. The adjusters will be splined - no idea what diameter, I usually remove them and slot them as I am to tight to buy the screwdriver:blushing:
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FS400 Brush Cutter... Carb or seals.. Vaccum test.
spudulike replied to champagnecharly's topic in Maintenance help
I usually pressure or vacuum the engine, turn it over very slowly one to three times and if there is no appreciable drop in pressure or vacuum, declare that a success. I believe Stihl just give a percentage drop over a 20 sec period but if it is holding pressure/vacuum over a ten minute period and my method shows only a very slight almost zero drop then you are good. Your issue sounds like an issue with the high speed part of the carb - if it has an H screw, remove it, blast some carb cleaner down there and reset the H screw. -
Second that, you won't be able to buy that part as a separate part!!
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Before some other bright spark chips in.....just make sure you don't get the cord in the exhaust port or transfers, best to rotate the piston so it covers these ports before inserting the cord - if the muffler is removed, it is easy to see where the piston actually is:thumbup:
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That's how I do it, why over complicate matters:001_rolleyes:
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I always do unless it is one of the few I trust through experience - you are of course one of them:thumbup:
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Got a Stihl TS410 in - thats a stone cutter! The disk keeps spinning on idle and removal of the recoil cover showed a busted cluch spring - need to pop off the clutch and rebuild with new springs!
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Interesting one this, I have just converted a MS210 and 230 over to Aspen, the interesting one was the MS210, despite fiting a new carb kit and fuel line, it had a terrible idle - knowing that it has the Zama C1Q carb with an accelerator pump, I stripped it down and fitted a new pump. The saw runs like a champ now - reckon the petrol had been absorbed in to the sealing O ring, dried in absence of pump fuel and then contracted in the Aspen. It would be easy to blame the new fuel but the hardening of rubber is just one of those issues with changing away from pump fuel and on to Aspen - easily picked up if you know your onions:thumbup: The fuel line also pissed out fuel but had new ones on order for the conversion.
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When talking lean and rich, you are normally talking about the carb settings and the fuel to air mix,lean on the High speed H screw will overheat the engine and rich will make it smoke. Oil mix is as Wolfie says!
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These cheapo saws tend to need a bit of a retune at some stage in their lives, you may get away with just increasing the idle speed (big screw on its own) or tweaking the L screw - the one nearest the engine of the two small side by side ones. You will probably find the screws have splined heads and will need a special tool to adjust them - that's life:thumbdown: the screws will only need adjusting if the saw isn't picking up well or not revving out OK.
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Mmmm, you can look a cool dude with the saw I did for you though:lol:
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I have seen a 3/8 chain and bar used on a 0.325" sprocket before now:001_rolleyes: Running out of ideas, the clutch may just be a red herring and perhaps the engine is just a bit slack on power - what sort of compression has it got? I have had 190psi before now on freshly rebuilt MS260s!
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I know you can get cheaper but meant this as a heads up if anyone is looking for a posh pair of shades for a summer holiday or for "best" down the pub:001_rolleyes: They really are good value - the pair I just purchase are £240 in Sunglass Hut, mine were just over £80 on a 15% discount code:thumbup: Not for everyone I know but good value IMO My first pair of Ray Bans were Wayfarers from the early 80s inspired by Miami Vice on the TV, think I paid around £70 and they are still worth around £50 as they are in decent condition - that's the benefit of decent glass lenses in non sporting sunglasses:thumbup:
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Very true - what happens if you rev it full tilt and wang the chain brake on? I if the clutch is a bit dodgy, you would expect the chain to stop and the engine to still pull higher revs than would be expected. Normally the saw revs are stifled as all power is lost - if yours still revs out, you have massive clutch slip - don't do it for any length of time as it will start producing a lot of heat. IMO, grease and oil never really causes any discernible amount of clutch slipping if the parts are in good condition.
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The flywheel key is in fact a woodruff key, the latter being the engineering term for the former and usually refers to the way gears are located on shafts:thumbup: Some machines have small steel ones that insert in to the crankshaft (like Stihl), others have moulded keys actually on the flywheel - I have seen both shear in the past. If you are very careful/lucky, you can realign the flywheel with the moulded key type on to the crank stub again - I have used a smear of JB weld and an inordinate amount of torque but it worked. Getting the timing 100% is key.....or just fit a new flywheel!
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Not sure what others are seeing but it looks fine to me - this is an image of an OEM unit: - Looks as it should IMO, it may be worth putting a vid up on the site as to what it is doing as this sounds a bit weird!
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Yes Barrie but there is "knackered! and "REALLY KNACKERED":sneaky2: Just done a blower and it is totally FUBARed:thumbdown:
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The L screw will be typically set at one turn - if the engine idles well, it may be OK but can be checked by winding it in until bedded and turning out one turn. Don't use excessive force when doing it up though!
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Sometimes if the carb has been left standing and dry, the gauze can look clean but actually be blocked by a transparrent residue. Worth pulling it out to check it against a bright light!
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Seeing as summer is here and I have a liking for quality sunglasses but don't like the price, I started looking for sites online to see what was available and found this Spanish site -http://www.visual-click.com/en They offer some pretty impressive discounts on the big name brands and also good service. Having purchased a pair of Persols, the buggers sent me a 15% discount code for the same brand :sneaky2:so got myself another pair:blushing: Their prices are around £80 - 100 for glasses that you will pay another £60 - 100 in the high street:thumbup: Worth checking them out if you re in the market - the wife has just got a pair
