spudulike

I am sure Wes will be about soon to give an opinion but thought he rubs a mix similar to mine:confused1:

I'm ok at the moment, thanks

Got two Aspen conversions coming up, a MS250 and MS210, both have been run on Aspen but are playing up a bit so will change the carb diaphragms and fuel lines, clean the carb and tank then retune - this should sort it! Barries Aspen stickers are going well:thumbup:

He must be in lurrrvvveeee with a girleeeeeeeee:thumbup:

Taking the clutch off a MS260 is pretty easy, the Stihl plastic double ended stop is good and the clutch has a hex nut on the end so spins off well - remember it is clockwise to undo!! Just thinking, you have located the chain on the rim drive correctly - if it is to one side, you could get this effect!

I understand what you are saying but using that theory, if I setup a saw on 50:1 and set max revs at say 13,000 If I were to use 25:1 mix, do you reckon the saw would scream to higher revs or sound like a strangled cat and smoke like hell??? IMO, it will be the latter - see what I am getting to, I guess you could prove it but I personally reckon a 40-45:1 mix with the saw set to the correct revs will give the engine more protection than using a 50:1 mix considering our fuel wil proably go the same way as the US with more ethanol content in time! Just my opinion:001_rolleyes:

Don't know Barrie - I think if you ran a 1:50 fuel to oil, that may never seize the engine as it would never start:lol: The point I was making was that if the saw was tuned to the correct max revs and was running say a 40:1 mix Fuel to Oil, you now have the same amount of fuel (oil & petrol) vapour going in to the engine but with a higher oil content and this must surely protect the engine against seizure as it is the oil and not the fuel that lubricates the engine. Sure, the amount of PETROL that is going in to the engine is less so it may not run quite the same power but the oil would protect the saw more. Would you say this is "Lean"........ not sure as the same amount of vapour will be passed by the carb (making allowances for the viscosity of the mix) and you usually say an engine is running lean if the fuel/oil MIX entering the engine is not enough but this won't have changed?? It would be interesting to run a saw with 50:1 and 30:1 and register the differences in output, max revs and heat generated - just my ramblings on a slow Thursday:blushing: I run 45:1 mix on all my saws for the record, even the hot ones!

So what you are saying is that with the saw going flat out, when it hits the wood, the revs stay high but the chain stops spinning. If that is so, it sounds like the clutch is worn or tight and not making good contact with the clutch drum. If the saws revs plummet and bog down when the chain hits the wood then it sounds more like fuel or compression issue!

I have heard a few say that putting more oil in the fuel "Leans" down the mix. Well.....it does as far as the fuel/oil to air mix goes. It also makes the oil content of the fuel/oil to air mix GREATER so it is less likely to seize an engine - that's my take on it and would like to hear if anyone doesn't agree:001_rolleyes:

I have been working on a 550XP this week, well two actually. One came in for repair as it was seized, the cylinder was shot and I know of a low mileage one that had been clouted by a tree, the auto tune gave me concerns on the first machine so a deal was struck between the two owners and I stripped the first one and used the crankcase for the second that had busted chain brake lugs. The first saw had been off to Husqvarna on a warranty claim and had come back saying the piston had been damaged by carbon from the exhaust port - this was a load of sphericals as the only "carbon" in the exhaust port was in fact, the aluminium scraped off the front of the piston as it fried!!! They had said the crankcase was pressure checked and had then taken out both crank seals.....WHY???? It just means I ended up having to purchase another two:001_rolleyes: I guess they didn't pressure check it and just took the seals out to cover their tracks. The machine was then returned completely in bits - even the flywheel had been removed and the clutch, oil pump etc...WHY??? I know they need to be thorough but you can test for leakage without dismantling the machine - you only do that if it leaks!!!! I wasn't happy for the original owner - I think the most likely case of failure was lack of oil in the fuel but more about that in my next post.

I think it is when the big lump at the top gets cut off and it hits the dumper below dislodging the first ladder leaving him stranded up the tree:001_rolleyes:

Not sure if this has been posted before - classic!

You are well off my beaten track. I guess one option is just to check the impulse line, inlet manifold and then fit new seals and tune the carb a bit fat on the top end, this way it would have a chance of survival but as I and others have said, a full pressure and vacuum check is really the only way to ensure the engine holds air - critical on two strokes, especially on vacuum! Doing the work isn't particularly easy though Posting such a large lump of kit won't be easy and don't know any one near you!

Model nurmber of what :confused1:The machines after around 2009 have better carbs.

I used to rock the cylinder toward the closed end of the ring and then pop the open loose end in with a small screw driver on most saws - easier on a single ringed piston. I was given some spring compressors by Burrell some time ago and have since used them with success!

Just for the record, the accelerator pump does just that - it gives the engine a little kick of fuel when accelerating from idle. If the carb has no running issues and you do this mod, it is likely to take a tad off your low end pick up but be unnoticeable on full running speed. If the carb has accelerator pump issues, they are damn similar to a leaking welch plug, then this mod will stabilize a wandering idle and turn the carb in to something like the non accelerated 020T carb if the pump is failing. The early carbs had softer pumps that wore, the later ones are much better and have not had issues with these ones! I get quite selective in which ones I mod and which I leave!

Whereabouts in the country are you? Options include dropping the whole machine off to one of the techs on here that may be able to work on it or just sending in the cylinder my way and I will clear the ally transfer, clean and lightly hone the cylinder. If it is salvageable, I will charge a reasonable rate, if it is scrap, I will charge just the return fee! You would need to make sure you check all the things that may have caused the issue in the first place on refitting though if I just clean the bore!

Small saws can be very fussy on carb adjustments, I have no experience of your saw model, a new carb may sort it out but I usually persevere to the point I must change a carb rather than just doing it up front. If the saw piston is OK and it is in generally good condition, it seems likely the issue will be with the carb. I can't say or do much more - the varying idle is a sign of a possible air leak or a leaking carb welch plug - they would be my first points to look at!

Possibly a 180S Model Profile: 180S

If your oil pump stops working, the chain and bar heat up through friction, the chain gets very tight on the bar and will be difficult to move by hand. The chain will start going golden brown with a build up of dried resin and wood chip and may end up black if it gets hot enough. The chain will sound like the tracks on a caterpillar or tank sound - all tight and squeaky:thumbdown: In some cases, the chain will start to burn the wood in the cut! These are the consequences of poor lubrication on the bar and chain. The chain spins round on the bar at around 60mph on a normal pro saw, faster if using an 8 pin rim and/or running a tuned saw! If doing this, the oiler should be run on maximum.

You generally cut a hole in the muffler to the bottom end of the part that protrudes through the clutch cover. You usually line it up with the gallery that goes through to where the exhaust port hole is but it isn't critical. Just don't drill through the outer case as I have seen before:001_rolleyes: 10mm is fine - 13mm makes more noise and a little more go. I do mod the ones I do a fair bit more than that but that is my "extra" bit of zing and for me to know and you to work out:001_rolleyes:

No worries - done a few myself like this:thumbup:

You may get lucky in purchasing a length of the spring - I guess you would need to try to match the outside diameter (OD) of the spring and also the diameter of the wire used and then cut to size - you just need decent side cutters to cut the spring and then just lift one ring in to a loop with the cutters or similar.

That one isn't too hard. Getting the actual part number 504 21 64-00...probably almost impossible:thumbdown: Purchasing a similar spring for a Husqvarna and cutting to length, a whole lot easier - you may get one that is too short but if you get one for a machine that is say 10cc bigger, hopefully the clutch will be a little larger and the spring can be cut to size and a new hook formed. If the clutch still spins up at idle, cut another loop off until it works fine - don't go too mad as it will be a bitch to fit and may take out the clutch! You may find a Husqvarna 254Xp spring or 262XP etc will fit and still be available being popular machines. I purchased a number of these springs at a bargain price some time ago and just modify and use these if I come across an older machine in need of one! Get inventive and fix it - if the spring is in reasonable condition but a little loose - try lopping off a couple of rings and try it again!

Think I may port my router:thumbup: