spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The saw is my own, it is an old "red eye" model that had a blown coil. The coil had to be replaced with a later model which threw the ignition timing out so had to sort this out at great time with timing lights, timing wheel and keyway modification but I think I got it right. The saw has been ported and has a pop up for greater compression....but no decomp so is kicking a bit! Just needs some felling spikes on it and some time from my mate Burrell for big wood and a comparison saw and bar. There will be a vid and hope it survives and goes well. It sounds good on a muffler mod but have a racing expansion pipe off a Kawasaki to mod and attempt to fit - the CC, stroke and peak revs were similar to this saw so should make a bit more power - just playing TBH, interested in what can be done and didn't cost a fortune. The biggest change was the piston and the blowdown figure - 18.5* if Wes is online:001_rolleyes:
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Many aftermarket rev/tacho meters work on induction as it is the simplest way to measure rpm on an engine, just got to make sure the gauge is set up for single cylinder engines. Some need a wire wrapped round the HT lead which can be a PTA if done on many saws, the better ones do both wire wrap or simply place it near the HT lead. Things to look out for are 0.5 second refresh for a fast accurate readout and 20krpm maximum reading - the refresh is important
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Where are you, I have tach tuned saws for peope on this site as favours and others may do similar if local. Better than causing injury. Listen to good advice from the experienced!
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If the manifold is split, it will be noticeable once you have it off and the part is bit expensive at over 20 quid. I can do the carb but it will have to be in 2-3 weeks time.....sorry!
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It looks very good, can't remember who did it. The 066 is fully back together ported and muffler mod plus the ignition tweaks, sounds a little wild, bit like a motocrosser but we need to do a good bit of cutting cookies on some big wood and compare it with your MS660 to see what I have created:biggrin: Now for that expansion chamber:lol:
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No need for appologies, I procrastinated and it theived my time:blushing: Glad all is good:thumbup:
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I find it quite warming that Stihlben is giving this kit away free of charge, here's to him and his kindly offers - shame more aren't like him:thumbup:
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If you are going to rev the saw up to 13Krpm and stick your machanical tach on the end of a small crankshaft end spinning at the same speed you are braver man than me. For starters, these old saws bounce all over the place when revved, secondly, I only rev the saw flat out for a second or two at a time - you will be doing it a lot longer, thirdly, it may be accurate on slow shafts but I would be surprised if it is THAT accurate at these rpms on a non fixed position engine/shaft. If you must - buy a cheap one off ebay that picks up the induction off the HT lead,. The ones we have mentioned on here are the correct and safe ones to use with the machine fully assembled and safe - your method defies my safety standards and WILL NOT tach the saw correctly as it should have the typical bar to be used fitted - the drag of the chain should be factored in when taching a saw. Your choice but I wouldn't do what you are attempting to do.
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If it IS a carb issue, it will be the accelerator pump, leaking Welch plug or high speed check valve. The first two faults give poor idle, the last one, poor high speed revs. Don't rule out a split inlet manifold. Holding the machine and stressing the handle from side to side will cause the revs to change significantly.
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I use a TT20K Tiny Tach, US built and is invaluable for Chainsaw technicians. If you have had the clutch off a machine and use the saw without a chain and bar on it, the clutch can spin off and if you are unlucky, could hit you or just spring apart. I have had one or two go, one quite spectacularly and took me two hours to find the parts I generally torque them where possible or run the machine flat out and slap the chain brake on a few times to tighten them as some don't have hex heads in the centre.
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Thanks Chris, all sounds good and glad you are happy. Bit of a shock having to get it sorted early but was happy with the port durations and blowdown:thumbup:
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If it was running when you put it away and it isn't after storage, it is almost definitely the carb is gummed up and just needs a strip down, clean and rebuild and both the H&L screws set to 1 turn. Worth checking the fuel line is OK and the fuel filter is clean. The most likely fault is the internal gauze filter in the carb has dried up crud in it - found under the single screw cover.
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I tried cobalt drills by Bosch for the first time a while ago and they actually cut like you would wish them to. I use Bosch HSS for general work and the cobalt drills on tougher jobs. Drills are like files, hacksaw blades etc - you KNOW when you have a quality product and cheap stuff just doesn't cut it!!
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Forgot I signed that one, got a bit carried away:blushing:
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Sounds like blow by - the exhaust gases being forced passed the ring enough to form a brown black haze beneath the ring - reasonably common and not an issue if the piston is OK. The reason for changing the piston would be wear, piston slap, low compression or scoring. If the compression is still OK then leave it and enjoy. The 365 has never been a high comp machine so expect around 145psi on the gauge!.
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Nothing here, I just happened to have a failed saw that wasn't worth the cost of rebuilding from bloke "A" and bloke "B" with a decent top end and the rest of the saw with buggered chain brake mounts only two days old.......was interested in his dissasembled saw, a deal was done between the introduced parties and bingo - put a worker together from the parts. I don't know of any going and it looks like a waiting game TBH as it was in Mr "B"s case!
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It is always the "why the hell did I do that" situations that get us in to these issues. One thing to learn is that when faced with such issues, you listen to that litle voice saying "you shouldn't be doing that" and not ignoring it thinking, I can do it, it may just work...... Get better soon bud, sounds like lady luck was with you despite the claret:thumbup:
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Try it with two MS200s, sounds like a boy racers burn up in the 1980s, these four mixs sound like Sopwith Camels running up!
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I tend to store mine dry, the chain oil is generally OK left in but can go gloopy if two types have been used so flush with fuel if the oiler fails to work well when used again. Pump fuel will harden the fuel lines over a period of time if there is a lack of fuel on the rubber.
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I had one in and turned it from a non runner in to a runner in front of the owner by adjusting the tappets and .........it failed within a week. Don't be fooled, stick 20 hrs use on it and see what it does then!
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Not being contradictory but I would say the L screw will probably need turning out a tad and the idle increasing. Just my experience!
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We have been here before, I am sure of it:001_rolleyes:
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Mg, is that like.......the chemical symbol for Magnesium by any chance:lol: In answer to your question......Yup:thumbup: I do a little chemistry as well - not the illegal type I hasten to add!!!
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Panasonic and Fuji here:thumbup:
