spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Well, it has been pissing it down all day, I have had in mind to go back to my 346XP and 357XP to lok at some of the earliest portig I did and check out if it could be improved. From the pile of aluminium powder left on the bench at the end of the day - it was obvious my technique has changed a fair bit. The ports shape has squared up, the blending in of the internal port to external port has improved and I leveled up the transfers on the 357 as the piston crown was showing decent blowdown on one side only. Will see how they go in time.
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They have come up before and the general concensus is that they were OK for the dosh. They are useful for chains that have been mullered as they take the damage out much faster than a file can.
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Torx bolts are much less likely to strip out than Allen ones. Allen are great in nice clean conditions but once they are a bit corroded and covered in crap, they are likely to round - just got to look at the shape of both recess shapes to tell you that. The most common reason to strip out both these types of bolt are when crap builds up in the head and isn't cleared out before the allen key or torx bit is inserted. Cleaning it out thoroughly and tapping the bit fullyin to place will help not stripping it. I havent had a chipper apart but perhaps some threadlock (the type that allows dissassembly) on the thread and a little grease around the counter sunk head and shoulder should help future removal - just an engineers thought as it will stop the rust and the lock will hold he thread! You could try stainless steel bolts??
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I looked in to it and it seemed like too much effort for the gain and difficult to get the correct angles without grinding the teeth on a bench grinder or using specialist files. Of course all this changes if you are in to timbersport and every 1/10th second is all important!
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Been porting a MS460 this weekend, standard figures off the degree wheel are: - Exhaust Duration - 160* Inlet duration - 142* Blowdown - 23.5* Now the figure that stands out is the blowdown so set out to maintain the exhaust duration, increase the inlet duration to 150* and reduce the blowdown figure to around 18* The final figues were 160* exhaust, 150* inlet and 18.5* blowdown, the muffler was opened up as was the internal baffle plates, the ports were widened and the base gasket was reduced to 0.12mm. The saw now picks up pretty fast and sounds pretty good.
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Just ported one, not used it yet but it does spool up pretty fast now:thumbup: They are a strange saw - they seem to have loads of compression and the transfers are different heights one side to the other, same as the 064 I did - soon sorted that out!
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Yup, that IS Stubbys saw on a 24" bar and on a whopping lump of beech and it is MattyF using it not my good self:thumbup:
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Sounds very much the same as a report I had in on a saw for repair, this one wasn't repaired on warranty but pointed to the fuel mix. I have no idea why they pull the seals, they did it on this saw and smacks of "we will pull the seals so we don't have to do a leak down test" to me - I had to spend out on over £20 worth of seals to get it serviceable again:thumbdown:
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Done 390XPs before, like a big version of the 346xp, a fair bit to do. Stubby has one of the ones I did and features in the vid below with MattyF doing the work:thumbup: [ame] [/ame]
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Thats good news Josh, glad it worked out. The 346XP looks sweet:thumbup:
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IPOSTPARCELS at circa £10 (Uninsured) is a good service and they carry saws OK. Drop me a line if you can't find anyone local to do the job but it will be in a few weeks time!
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I could do the work but it will have to be after Sept 22nd as I have other commitments and a two week break planned. If you do get someone to do it, make sure they try to salvage that cylinder and don't bugger it up as a new one will cost circa £300 with a piston against £30 for the Meteor one and a little work with chemical and a very light hone! It isn't difficult once you have done a decent number of cylinders and know what to do:thumbup:
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Sounds like the original mail was malicious and mix from eBay and it had put something nasty on your machine. Personally, I would run Malwarebytes on it!
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I have saved them before, you will need to do as Eddie has suggested, as well as seeing if the cylinder can be cleaned, and if it can - clean it and lightly abrade the bore and fit an OEM or Meteor piston and then do a full pressure and vacuum check plus the fuel system checks. If the saw is checkedover thoroughly and the bore is checked over and sorted, the saw should live again! Worst case is a new cylinder and piston will be needed.
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Think that is a 576 unless you have got some sort of bizzare Frankensaw in mind:lol:
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The 038 is an odd choice, pretty old school saw by now but good in it's day. The Husky 372/365 or Stihl MS460 would seem obvious choices.
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The guy only wants a fuel tank breather, you could try Garden Hire Spares or Green Stripe - both have been reliable for me.
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Fingers crossed, I have salvaged seized ones before with good results!
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The symptoms are consistant with a light seize, if you can't get it running right, it will be worth pulling the exhaust off and looking at the piston through the exhaust port. Any scoring and it is bad news. Other than that, a holed fuel line, blocked fuel tank breather and blocked carb internal fuel gauze strainer all can cause these issues. Worth checking the plug as well for colour and condition.
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:lol:
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Personally I use a cheapo Silverline job with a flexible drive, gotta say it hass been a good bit of kit:thumbup:
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It is what you are going to do with it that worries me!!!
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FS400 Brush Cutter... Carb or seals.. Vaccum test.
spudulike replied to champagnecharly's topic in Maintenance help
You will not that there are two small holes in the carb gasket, these MUST allign with the small impulse hole in the carb body and the cylinder. If it doesn't, the engine will not start. If the engine won't go, check for compression, spark and make sure the spark plug gets wet after a few pulls on choke. If the carb has been apart, make sure the gaskets are the right way round and correct, make sure the stud in the middle of the diaphragm is the correct length, make sure the choke mechanism is closing fully, make sure the fast idle system for cold start is opening the throttle. Take the spark plug out and turn the engine upside down and pull it over to make sure the engine isn't flooded. Check the coil to flywheel gap is the thickness of the average business card and make sure the flywheel is alligned with the key correctly. That should do it! -
Ebay if you can find one or if OEM, Garden Hire Spares, Greenstripe or your local dealer! Make sure the cylinder comes up before ordering anything.
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Did a 242 recently and it needed an open windowed piston as the transfers were closed, It was a Golf one from GHS. The closed piston will reduce the performance considerably if it isn't the correct one. Why not just remove the cylinder - it is a pretty quick job!
