spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Nice job Martin
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Well I think you have been told a load of , Some of the fasstest ever racing small bore two strokes got up to around this level and to do so would have matched expansion pipes and porting - if this doesn't happen, the expansion won't have the correct effect.These racing bikes would have a very short stroke to get this sort of RPM and a bog standard chainsaw engine doing it..........under load:confused1: I would imagine these fellas took their standard engine, gave the data to a pipe specialist, matched the pipe as best they could and bingo - more power but to get to 21,000 rpm, you would need to start with a blank piece of paper and not a design for a saw that normally revs to 12500rpm or so. I will ask the guy who built it in April 15 when I am at the NEC again!
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Where did the 21,000 rpm come from? seems damn high to me as even race tuned 125cc GP bikes don't get that high and these saws are not tuned to the pipes? From what I know, the saws never had the adjustable H screw carbs and when I spoke to the guy that assembled it, he hadn't done any engine mods to the saws!
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It sounds like fuel starvation, wind out the L screw 2-3 turns and try it again, if it won't fire, try it on a single pull on choke and then back on fast idle again. Make sure the thing hasn't got fuel in the bottom of the crankcase by removing he plug and pulling it over upside down like I said before. If it still won't go, hold the throttle fully open with your right hand and pull it over with your left - no choke!
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I did Stubbys 390XP and MattyFs 395XP at the same time and ran both of them together, the 395XP was faster but both have much that can be done. The vid is on Youtube [ame] [/ame][ame] [/ame] I am sure they will say what they reckon on them:thumbup:
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He had tha saw imported from one of the porters Stateside, they seem pretty common there!
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Now that would kick a little:lol:
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Nice, Wes is like a pig in piggy poo:lol:
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Generally the bottom ends are the last thing to blow - most real old saws I have seen have intact bottom ends with nice tight bearings and it is the top ends that suffer. I haven't seen any bottom end detonation on any of the saws I have ported and usually tune them to around 500rpm below max revs so it is probably just an unlucky fault. Significantly advancing the ignition could cause issues with the ends - having heard a saw with the ignition too advanced - it sounds a little bit like a bomb ready to blow! Was the ignition timing changed??
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Yup, quite agree, the coil alligns with the flywheel at around 15 -20 deg, same as a 026 but it may be firing at 15 deg instead of 30 deg so retarded by 15 deg. There is no decomp on it and it isn't ripping the starter handle out of my hands like I would expect running 170psi on a pop up unbedded piston! Just needs a bit more tlc! Good luck with the new baby!
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Well, I have tried out my ported 066 "Red eye" and .........what a dissapointment, very boggy in the cut and about as much go as an unported 60cc saw. I am thinking the ignition advance isn't right as this is the area where I had to set the flywheel manually and not with the conventional key. The next stage is to fire the saw up and use a timing light on it to see exactly what the ignition timing is - 27.5 - 32.5 deg at 8,000 is what it should be. Watch this space!
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Just pulled a clean 395XP apart, it has been lightly seized so the bore has been cleaned up, piston on order and will investigate the reason for failure on rebuild. Also started on a MS200T that has a poor pickup, compression is a healthy 180psi and suspect carb issues but am giving it a full strip, service and porting/muffler mod. Will be good once done:thumbup:
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395 chain going slack then tightening up again!?
spudulike replied to Matthew Storrs's topic in Chainsaws
Could also be the oil tank breather, gloop in the bottom of the oil tank, a plugged oil pump or blocked pickup strainer - check the easy ones before tackling the more difficult ones! -
Changing the rim isn't a magic way of getting faster cut speed. It will make a big saw on a small bar cut faster but may well make a saw on its usual bar size very boggy in the cut and cause over fuelling issues on tuned/auto tune saws by not allowing the saw to get in to it's powerband.
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395 chain going slack then tightening up again!?
spudulike replied to Matthew Storrs's topic in Chainsaws
I would make sure your oiler is slinging out enough oil as chains usually do this when they get dry and hot or when lack of oil has stretched the chain unevenly. Check your clutch sprocket bearing and the bar end nose sprocket for play and thats about it! Slight edit - check your sprocket/rim for wear as well -
In simple terms, a running engine needs Compression, spark and fuel. Life is never that simple but this has been a mantra I have used for many years. When you changed the piston, did you clean ALL the transfer off the bore - have you got 145+ psi compression now? Does the spark plug spark when you pull the saw over with the plug out and earthed on the cylinder - AWAY from the plug hole - the flames can be quite spectacular:001_rolleyes: When you pulled over the saw on full choke, did the spark plug get wet? Check the piston out as the other fella said. You could try pulling off the carb and trying a bit of carb cleaner down the manifold to see if it fires! It is possible the saw has flooded so pull the plug out, turn the saw upside down and pull the saw over a few times to clear the puddled fuel. If the fuel is getting through to the plug, try heating the plug up with a plumbers lamp and then pull the saw over with no choke and open the throttle fully - see if it fires.
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They are an alloy of magnesium - an alloy is just a mix of metals to give a metal of required characteristics!
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Well done, getting on, would also fit new crank seals if you haven't already - the clutch side is the most common to fail but do both!
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Ah......Martin, wondered how long it would be:001_rolleyes:
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Cheers Dan......what a great offer:sneaky2:
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Yes - don't go, you will break your saws and have nobody to fix em:001_rolleyes: Goodluck if and when you do go:thumbup:
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I have seen adaptor plugs that do have a grease nipple set in to a plug that simply screws in to the original hole. You just take one out, grease and then swap back - they were on ebay. Grease wise - the destroyer of gearboxes is LACK of grease and any gtease is better than none but Lithium HT grease - the type you pack in to wheel bearings will be fine.
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Mmmm, I would personally try the negative earth version and just spin up the saw on the recoil with the plug on the cylinder to make sure it is working. I base that on the assumption that the magnet going over the coil will create a positive potential or voltage and therefore the ground will be negative but normally this would refer to wether a vehicles negative or positive battery terminal is connected to the car/bike body which you obviously have't got on a saw as there is no magneto, alternator or dynamo on it. I would imagine the comment is for motorcycles and scooters! You may even find both ways work but go for the negative and test as above. Go careful as the plug can give you a damn good jolt if you pull and it isn't earthed out
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Oh yes, forgot about that, very useful it was to. We had a good holiday and the weather was kind:thumbup:
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Ouch.......perhaps if we hone the bore and file the piston:001_rolleyes: no chance!
