spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Mmm - I ported my strimmer, hedge cutter, blower and every saw I have:blushing: Guess I can't help myself:lol:
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I don't quite follow your statement but in my experience, if the flow of the engine is increased through porting/mufler mod, the flow through the carb is increased and generally, this will pull through more fuel with the carb settings left on standard settings. The carb will generally need leaning up slightly on a ported engine to obtain the correct mix and the extra engine flow will increase the power and allow the blower to run faster/higher revs - well that is what occured on mine when I played with it!
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I drilled the exhaust making the tube coming from it pretty thin. I also lowered the squish and ported my BG85, it pulls around 9500rpm rather than the standard machines circa 7500rpm.......TBH, I was bored one day:001_rolleyes:
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The Devil will find work for idle hands to do:thumbup:
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Rev it hard for short periods, it is the build up if excessive heat that should be avoided. You basically want the piston and ring to wear in on the freshly honed bore whilst it is new and rough. Running it in slow will glaze the bore and stop this happening. Flat out in the cut for short periods.
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Thanks for letting us know, you got away very lightly - had an 084 in once that had actually banged the front half of the cylinder out of the casting when this had happened. It is lucky it didn't seize - just shows you to be vigilant if the saws top revs seem high or the idle changes for no reason! A good ending!
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For the novice, this is a difficult job. The last one I did was a 660, the bar side case came off fine, the other side was a bitch with the crank taking the bearing out if the casing with it. I used pullers on the bearing and it still wouldn't move and ended up using heat which did it but trashed the bearing. Others have been a breeze - thats life. You could give it a go but either little engineering skills, it may be easier to strip it and get the job done elsewhere!
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Generally dealers will write a saw off with bottom end issues out of cost. Splitting the cases and doing this sort if work is about as in depth as it gets. The main issue is driving off the case and bearing cleanly from the crankshaft. The ball races have a tendency to stick on the crankshaft - last one I did actually pushed the bearing clean out if the cases and was near impossible to get off the crankshaft. Generally having a big G clamp,a big bench vice and a crank splitter makes life easier but these type of jobs are generally never text book!
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The older Huskys are pretty bulletproof, I would replace the crank seals and take a judgement on the crank bearings. Make sure ALL the crank bolts are out and cross your fingers on the crank coming out of the bearings so it splits. I made a splitter and it works a treat - bolts on to the bar mount bolts - in your case, dont ever use a hammer, always a mallet on the crank or casings and remember the casings are very thin alloy.
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Back tomorrow, just filling in time before more beer food and vino.........it is a hard life:thumbup:
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A very tough rule is one turn out from fully in on both screws but there are some exceptions. If the saw has limit caps on the carb, the setting is different and with Stihls, generally on the side of the air box. These settings are the starting point and whilst the H screw is generally pretty much on factory, I have found L screws to need + or - 1/4 turn on factory settings. The H screw is the critical one and is always the screw furthest from the engine, lean it out too much and the saw will over-rev and will possibly seize.
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Your fuel reminds me of the plastic bottles you see by the side of the motorway when drivers have got stuck in the traffic a long time
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The crank seal will not be the fault, it is the gasket that seals the two halves of the crankcase together that is most likely bad. If the oil tank breather is blocked, it is possible the vacuum in the oil tank could pull the gasket in around where it seals with the crankcase. Think you need to split the cases, this can be anything from difficult to damn near impossible even if you have a splitter.
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The tightening of the chain is probably a plugged oil pump, the burning of oil may be the oil tank leaking in to the crank case. It would be interesting to flush the oil tank so it us clean then to fire up the saw and see if it still smokes. If it doesn't, introduce oil in to the tank and see if it then smokes. If the crankcase gasket has failed, it is a fairly big job to split the cases and replace.
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In manufacturing, more handling = more cost, pretty basic stuff and when I was in manufacturing we minimized any sort of extra handling at any stage of manufacture.
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Not fitted one but the advantages would be that the ignition timing will be more accurate and no maintenance. I have known contact breakers to get dirt between their contacts and stop the spark. My 009 has this ignition and seems fine.
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That is the metering one as it meters the fuel by opening the needle valve. The spacer gasket goes between the carb body and the diaphragm
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Think you may be referring to the MS200 as the MS201 came out only a few years back, possibly around 2011 from memory:confused1:
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There are two diaphragms, the METERING one which is the one you are talking about and the PUMPING one that sits on the carb body as I described correctly:001_rolleyes:
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Anything is possible, you would need to modify linkages etc, one of the big problems would be the transfer tubes and their connection and the other is how the autotune adjusts ignition timing and idle speed, it would be quite a project finding a coil to fit and get the timing set correctly. A big project I would say having just converted my 066 red eye to another coil!
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"Prerogative " good word Wes, glad to see the English language isn't completely lost in the US:lol:
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And there ends the first lesson on autotune carbs, great when they run but not to great when they don't
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No worries, always a pleasure:thumbup:
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The damage looks like a small cavity in the casting and is of no consequence.
