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Matthew Storrs

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  1. Would it take much to weld some sort of brackets/legs so the knocker can lie upside down with hammer on top so it's easier to hitch up if you want it facing towards the cab? The problem I've found with mounting it towards the cab is it makes it hard to fence up against walls or hedges with all the bulk of the knocker in the way. Interesting project though- will look forwards to some pics of it in use. Like all these things there are probably things you'll change as you use it. My very first knocker was one me and my dad put together, it did alot of work actually and was exciting to build as before that it was all by hand!
  2. Yeah you've probably got the right idea keeping the weight down if using under the tilt hitch and on steep ground too. Although with steep ground there are always ways round it. Knocking up hill if poss, if pointing down hill and it's steep I often won't use it over the side of the tracks, preferring to drive blade downhill towards each stake and use blade to anchor the machine- can work on some ridiculously steep ground that way. I'm not that keen on the machine being offset myself as quite a twist on the boom but to be fair I have been using the protech like this for many years now with out any effect on the boom. I would try and keep the hitch in as close as possible to the mast to avoid unnecessary side leverage . Some of the vectors I have seen have the mast about 2ft offset which is ridiculous.
  3. Your not going to match a Bryce for smack. But like all these things-right tool for the right job.ive done all sorts of awkward jobs with mine where a tractor or even tracked machine would struggle. A 2.8t will handle a 200kg hammer (350kg overall) if you know how to handle it on slopes. An 8 ton will take 300-400kg hammer (600kg overall ok) so starts to get nearer a Bryce but it it's more the convenience of working steep ground, reaching over ditches or in-between trees that makes the digger ones good
  4. These are my two. One is a protech which has the chained post cap doobin was referring to. As said a must really, males it so much easier to stabilise on a small machine, makes the hammer more efficient and I find a lot quicker than using a leg. I use mine on my own using a plumb line hanging on the post so thay I can see it's going in straight in both planes, and can easily adjust as it goes in rather than waiting for another man to communicate to me. It has to be offset really to avoid arm smacking the dipper, means I can bring it in close to the machine which is handy in a tight spot, has 180kg hammer and is fine on 2.8t digger. I reckon the next one I'll have the 210 kg hammer as confident it will handle that easily too. The second one I had adapted to go on the smaller 1.8tmachine. The pulley design is better to lift the weights can mountit direct in lineas no arm to bang on the dipper. That has a 130kg hammer and is just ok at far reach
  5. I got mine from Nigel @ attachment solutions ltd in Colchester. Was good to deal with👍
  6. If you were constantly picking timber up at one end then yes, but then why would you do that!? Tbh they can take a bit of side loading without much issue I've had a 350kg postknocker hanging side on/offset for years with out any issues despite thinking there would be Machine is always going to handle it much better with a centralised load. I'd agree with doobin. I have the same intermecato grab as his and I've given it some shit handling rocks which are far too big for it really. 2 years on its got almost neglible wear on it and not bent either. Its much stronger than it looks. I have the normal top hat mounting with parallel pins. I don't find it a problem for my line of work but if removing verticle timber and poles i get the point about angled hitch.
  7. I've been using my Kinshofer this week. Hell of a grab. Doubt there's much to match it in terms of build quality. Heavy beast at 400kg but the case seems to handle it pretty well even when a good bundle of timber or brash in it. It's great for stacking timber and brash etc. For general work and variety though I'd take a thumb and bucket anyday. I've been pulling 2ft dia willow stumps out with the grab because I can't be arsed to take the grab off, also been using it to remove sections of bank to gain access etc. But for the modest outlay of a thumb it could have done all that kind of work easily enough and is always on the machine when needed
  8. I'm guessing that Eurocomach 4th pump is an additional option. Just looking at the spec sheet for the 2.7t model and it says still only giving out 50 lpm on the auxiliaries...
  9. Personally think if your into handling tasks you want to be looking at one of the few that still do proper counterweights, having spent last week on a zero tail Hitachi and now back on my own Takeuchi the difference is night and day. So that leaves Kubota kx030, Yanmar SV26, Bobcat E27, doubt any of them would be a bad choice tbh. The Takeuchi TB230 is a genuine 3 ton machine so a bit weighty really for towing.
  10. I have a shogun 2007 which I think is quite different in appearance to 2006 but same engine. It tows bloody well but that's where it ends for me. Dpf issues. Limp mode issues. Uncomfortable noisy ride. I'm getting shot of it and going back to my faithfull old landrovers which I should never have betrayed in the first place.! If you can find a tidy disco 2 get it. Chassis can be swapped parts are cheap as are the vehicles themselves compared to defender, comfy and no DPF!!
  11. Do you not find it rather nose heavy with it going on blade at the back?
  12. Should be. My 2.8ton fits on easy enough with probably 3 inches either side. Zero tail ones tend to be a bit wider so will be tighter but still doable
  13. Yeah I'm surprised to hear that too. I was looking at someone's new Nugent plant the other day- looked a heavily built trailer IMo- almost overkill. Certainly nothing pathetic about it. Still think the GH1054 is the one ifor got just right tho when balancing weight/cost/strength etc
  14. Depends entirely on the ground. On easy loamy soils a 100kg hammer will put in a 6-7" strainer- just. With that size hammer it's best used in conjunction with an auger on the digger- auger out all the strainer posts with a small pilot auger first. 100kg will be fine for stakes and the like though. To be on top of strainers in rooty or hard ground then really you need to be looking at a 200kg weight as a minimum- but again an auger will help.
  15. Should be handy. I assume you can steer the articulation for a bit of side shift movement? The protech has a fair bit of clout when set up with the chains. Quite a bit drop with each hit My Wrag I had on the tractor had bigger weight but felt the protech on the digger put them in better


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