spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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That's pretty much it, you can always make other adjustments but a MM is the simplest most cost effective mod that will give real improvement.
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That statement would worry me a bit
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I would say that the saw probably has leaking crank shaft seals that took out the original piston and gas now fried the second. Sawtroll has it when he said a good technique would investigate the reason for failure when fitting new parts. He would also set up the machine correctly to ensure it doesn't happen again. A busted ring is a different matter and is usually a sign of Chinese parts:thumbdown:
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Been out with my 357 that I recently revisited, Blimey it goes a bit now. Really lent on it on 12" elm and it just kept pulling. Very impressed:thumbup:
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The 441 is difficult, the ring end runs down the side of the exhaust port stopping any widening! The 460 has lots of small modifications rather than one big one, the blow down is the largest one but it gives good increases. Daythetrees was the fella I did it for.
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As per Rovers thread, it looks like one pawl is bent. Just for the record, pawls are usually in their inner sprung position when the saw isn't running, They only open/retract when tha flywheel is spinning fast as they are flung out under centrifugal force! They should move freely from their stationary position to their extended position and the springs should both be in place and working smoothly. It sounds like the old starter has mullered the pawls a bit and is stopping them retracting - you may find that the bent one is contacting the new pulley on its flat surface and not just on the gear part where it is supposed to catch - you could try tapping them both down a little with a mallet or checking the measurement from the top of the pawl to the flywheel body - that is the vertical distance outwards from the body of the flywheel - I know what I mean:001_rolleyes:
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Well - did we get anywhere with this??? The most logical reason for this issue is that the bar has been worn by the engine where it does most of its cutting action takes place and the chain is now sitting at an angle in the bar and is therefore not being held by the bar correctly in the cut. Options are:- Dress the bar Replace the bar Knock the rails together if worn It depends on what you find but it may be nice to give us some feedback:001_rolleyes:
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To me, this sounds like lack of power otput or a slipping clutch - power output being the most likely. It sounds, from your description, that your saw is revving and idling OK but when you go to cut wood, the saw slows and boggs in the cut. If you have bar/chain issues, you usually get the saw revving its nuts off but very little cutting action - a bit different from bogging in the cut. My advice is to ensure your saw has compression, check the piston through the exhaust port (should be smooth with no vertical scores). If this looks good then check the fuel system. It is likely you have a partial blockage - probably the internal gauze strainer under the single screw cover. A sliping clutch would cause the revs to continue or soar as the chain slows in the cut and possible excess heat/smoke from the clutch side. A worn sprocket will cause rough chain rotation but shouldn't cause this issue. Engine wear/partial seizure/ fuel/ bad spark plug are most likely IMO!
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IMO - that is fooked:001_rolleyes: Strip it for spares:thumbup:
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No bill Matty, just the courier back.....call it a favour and will be glad to see you if you come back down here. Changing the subject, got the timing light on the 066, looks like 20-25 deg advance on what should be 27-32 deg so reckon we are around 5 deg out and that is enough to make the saw pretty boggy. Got a new aftermarket coil on order, hope it has the built in advance and will then check and set the ignition once fitted!
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The muffler is mega restricted, there is a plate right in front of the port with three holes in it. The exhaust will come out and hit this taking the volume down significantly but it will also reduce the flow in the same way. The outlet is similar. TBH, I haven't checked the piston skirt, port widths, transfer design etc. I am sure there are things that can be done:thumbup:
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The stuffers are thin pressed metal, the saw was split and then put together again and it looks like there is a bit of gasket in the bottom of the crankcase that may have abraded the surface of he stuffer until it wore through and caught up. I am not sure if the gasket just didn't mate properly or a thin bit broke and entered the case or what but it has caused some bad damage - it is very unusual to have stuffers break up like this. A big shame as it was a chance to see how the autotune responded to porting:thumbdown:
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It is over, the 560 has had a crank stuffer break up and the parts have dented the cylinder upper transfer and damaged the piston. The saw is a write off:thumbdown:
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Just gonna take a look at it now peaky Blinders has finished:lol:
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Early signs are that it hasn't seized but the bearings or crank are buggered - will find out later:001_rolleyes:
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What can go wrong:001_rolleyes:
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The saws are made to run pretty quiet so getting a bit of flow through the muffler will help. The muffler exhaust port side is very restricted as is the outlet side. I will see what I am able to achieve with the kit I have!
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I will need to see what the ports are like(Shape and width), whether I can get to the exhaust port as it has quite an acute exit angle to aid exhaust exit, what the limiting porting factors are, where the ring ends are, what the squish is, what the timing durations are etc etc All in a days work but would expect there are mods to do as there generally are - the beauty is that the machine is a scrapper so neither the owner or I are particularly bothered if we spend a little time and dosh on it and it buggers up - not that I expect it to:thumbup: Need to look at the muffler to see what I can do from the outside or if I need to split the can!
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Copper slip is good as it has a high temp rating and also use HT Grease - nothing magical, it just stops the clutch getting locked on to the crank thread!
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From my side, never done one!
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You don't want to know my thoughts unless you don't want to sleep at night:lol: I may get a chance this weekend, it would be interesting to know if your one was just a muffler mod and nothing else but this one will have whatever I can throw at it.....once I get to it!
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You could try Rowena Motors, they may ship to the Nordics and the full kits come in far cheaper than the Stihl re-branded ones - I can't fault their service, it is reeaaaalllllllyyyyy good:thumbup:
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I just tap the thing tight and then run it up and slap the chainbrake on - any cutting action will tighten the clutch hence the left hand thread! They do tighten up pretty fast but I grease the thread for future removal when I work on saws!
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Of those three I would reckon Oregon to be best - have you made sure your oiler output is OK and the clutch drum sprocket/rim is in good condition? Are your bar rails worn? Have you tried Stihl chain?
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I think that clutch had been off in my service - can't remember if it had a new seal or not......Wus:001_rolleyes: Glad it has all ended well - not really tried mine after a second visit to porting it and opening up the muffler a bit more - got some timber down on the lane out of the village - dead standing ash and elm.....my favourite:thumbup:
