spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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395 chain going slack then tightening up again!?
spudulike replied to Matthew Storrs's topic in Chainsaws
I would make sure your oiler is slinging out enough oil as chains usually do this when they get dry and hot or when lack of oil has stretched the chain unevenly. Check your clutch sprocket bearing and the bar end nose sprocket for play and thats about it! Slight edit - check your sprocket/rim for wear as well -
In simple terms, a running engine needs Compression, spark and fuel. Life is never that simple but this has been a mantra I have used for many years. When you changed the piston, did you clean ALL the transfer off the bore - have you got 145+ psi compression now? Does the spark plug spark when you pull the saw over with the plug out and earthed on the cylinder - AWAY from the plug hole - the flames can be quite spectacular:001_rolleyes: When you pulled over the saw on full choke, did the spark plug get wet? Check the piston out as the other fella said. You could try pulling off the carb and trying a bit of carb cleaner down the manifold to see if it fires! It is possible the saw has flooded so pull the plug out, turn the saw upside down and pull the saw over a few times to clear the puddled fuel. If the fuel is getting through to the plug, try heating the plug up with a plumbers lamp and then pull the saw over with no choke and open the throttle fully - see if it fires.
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They are an alloy of magnesium - an alloy is just a mix of metals to give a metal of required characteristics!
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Well done, getting on, would also fit new crank seals if you haven't already - the clutch side is the most common to fail but do both!
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Ah......Martin, wondered how long it would be:001_rolleyes:
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Cheers Dan......what a great offer:sneaky2:
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Yes - don't go, you will break your saws and have nobody to fix em:001_rolleyes: Goodluck if and when you do go:thumbup:
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I have seen adaptor plugs that do have a grease nipple set in to a plug that simply screws in to the original hole. You just take one out, grease and then swap back - they were on ebay. Grease wise - the destroyer of gearboxes is LACK of grease and any gtease is better than none but Lithium HT grease - the type you pack in to wheel bearings will be fine.
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Mmmm, I would personally try the negative earth version and just spin up the saw on the recoil with the plug on the cylinder to make sure it is working. I base that on the assumption that the magnet going over the coil will create a positive potential or voltage and therefore the ground will be negative but normally this would refer to wether a vehicles negative or positive battery terminal is connected to the car/bike body which you obviously have't got on a saw as there is no magneto, alternator or dynamo on it. I would imagine the comment is for motorcycles and scooters! You may even find both ways work but go for the negative and test as above. Go careful as the plug can give you a damn good jolt if you pull and it isn't earthed out
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Oh yes, forgot about that, very useful it was to. We had a good holiday and the weather was kind:thumbup:
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Ouch.......perhaps if we hone the bore and file the piston:001_rolleyes: no chance!
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The muffler is the easiest part to mod and if it all goes wrong - it doesn't cost too much to return it to standard. It would be an interesting project but it may mean me having to purchase one to see what is possible:001_rolleyes:
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This is a very stange question, maybe the strangest one ever. The saw has no battery so doesn't really have a positive or negative earth as such. the earth we talk about is taking the coil kill wire down to the body of the saw to stop the spark and that is about all. Why do you need to know????
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No, it is a third party engineering firm that were tasked with putting it together. The UK Husqvarna Sales Manager was trying to get some adjustable H screw carbs for the saws that they provided for the project. They are the same team that do the Robot War demonstrations at Gadget Show Live - that is where we met......nice bit of kit, some good work has gone in to it but those saws need a bit of fettling to get the power up!
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Had some very interesting news today, it seems I am PMing a member on this site all the time asking for his help on how to fix saws. I have only ever had help from Barrie (Gardenkit) on a few tricky spares and also Burrell (Martin) who kindly has done some machining for me to my specification and it was neither of them:001_rolleyes: I have discussions on porting with WYK (Wes) but that is very much a sharing of interests rather than help - sort of US meets UK:thumbup: Wasn't him either! I guess I should laugh at it as it has shown up someone elses insecurity but am none to happy TBH!
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Perhaps it is time to get a real saw and move on - I have a small wood burner but have a Stihl 066, 009 and Husqvarnas 346XP, 357XP & 181SE....probably more than the average Pro Overkill but fun:thumbup:
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One thing is for sure - a blower is the fastest way of getting a Chimnea, BBQ or fire pit going in record time:thumbup:
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That Gadget show dragster isn't ported, it has expansion pipes only, Our company exhibit there and I had a long chat with the fella that put it together. He was trying to get hold of adjustable H screw carbs for it last time I spoke to him!
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If the sprocket or rim is say 0.325" then the bar MUST be a 0.325 one, you also need to match the chain gauge to the bar as well - 1.6mm is common on most bigger Stihls so in short, the sprocket/rim, bar and chain have to be matched in pitch & gauge plus drive link count for the chain. Try this for the MS261 Clutch Assembly for Stihl MS261 | L&S Engineers
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That seems the best way of removing it without stripping it down, You will need to rotate the crank so the piston drops below the exhaust port and the rope can be pulled out with tweezers. Once removed, check that all the rope is out and spin the saw to make sure there is no restriction.
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Correct:thumbup1: oil technology has improved meaning a 50:1 mix is fine in this old banger of a saw.
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Pretty much what I would do, the Stihl double ended plastic stop can be used as can this rope method but don't use the metal screw in stop or by jamming anything in any of the ports. The nut will come off anti clockwise, the method above should work, if not then a set of pullers will be needed or sometimes a screwdriver can be tapped in behind the flywheel and a sharp crack on the crank end shoulf shift it. Note the flywheel key and make sure it aligns when the flywheel is replaced.
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Around 10-15 tanks, I have seen saws of a year or two old still have hone marks on the bore but it is the first few tanks where the bore is pretty rough that more heat will be generated and you want the piston ring to wear in to the same shape as the bore. If you go flat out for very long cuts the saw may be fine but in general it is better to do lighter work at FULL throttle and let it idle for a while or switch it off to cool so the heat is dissipated. Basically, the bore and ring are a bit rough when new, the bore will smooth with a few hours running and if the ring isn't worn to shape during this period, it will take much longer when the bore is smooth hence running the saw flat out and for short periods. Running a saw on half throttle isn't good either, they need either idle or flat out to be used as this is how they are set up to run.
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From what I can see, the 261 will take a rim or spur sprocket of either 3/8 or 0.325. On a saw of this size a 0.325 would be a reasonable choice. The 291 appears to only have a spur sprocket available and the 0.325 has the part number 1141 640 2001 so to make your 291 run on the same bar and chain as the 261, you will need to purchase a new 0.325 sprocket. This is the 7T option, there is also a 8T option - the parts list is here - http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/2848953/ms271-parts-list-pdf-june-3-2011-11-09-am-704k?da=y
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My BG85 coil wasn't limited so was able to get a bit more out of it. I didn't want it to be stupidly loud as I use it around my property - usually to mess up the wifes hair, gives me a laugh:blushing: Video - really.....it isn't that interesting:lol:
