spudulike

Very true, the wife took over loading the stove up when she went self employed, I forgot to tell her to check the second baffle and it went in a similar way due to this!

Did the same with my stovax - 3mm steel plate off ebay, angle grinder, drill, bench vice and big hammer - the original part did last 10 years but a new one at £95:thumbdown: My version - £10:thumbup:

Don't write off the crank bearings - strip it down and check the bearings by holding the crank end and moving it up and down and side to side - there should be negligible play! The bearings on the IPL look like ball races and they usually have no play if they are in good fetttle - easy job to strip the unit and check!

Dodgy crank bearings tend to give a hollow dry rumbling sound, once you have heard one go, you will know the sound forever! Big ends tend to thump - if you look at the piston through the exhaust port and rotate the crank to and forth, the crank will move but the piston won't if the ends have gone!

It is unusual for the big end to go - only seen one go! These blowers have a cast shroud around the flywheel and the bolts can come loose and clout the flywheel back side - worth checking other than that, worth checking the crank bearings - guess there is quite a load on the impeller side!

Anything with an engine that is working well, does it best without much silencing:thumbup: Hope your neighbours enjoyed it! I once "retrieved" a large lump of Oak off the side of the roead opposite a pub...........holding a Wake:lol: The noise was enough to wake the dead but want the heck - sure the departed soul saw the funny side:lol:

And what do you expect, the ported 346XP is a mad wasp of a saw and nothing else sounds like it - it sounds mad and cuts like it is crazy:thumbup:

So your in love Wes, what about those Irish ladies, not turning your head:lol: Nice saw, can I be best man:001_rolleyes::lol: I am guessing it was worth the dosh:thumbup:

Had a good weekend in the end, the 395XP from my earlier post needed the carb cleaned, it just would not hold idle - kept dyingbut a good ultrasonic clean sorted it. The 026 need the same, revs kept soaring flatout but all seems OK now. Sterted on two MS200Ts, the first one was a fairly old one, sounded a little dry and creaky on the recoil, fired it up and it had that hollow/dry sound that means only one thing - bad crank/crank bearings and lo and behold - the image below shows that the hardened surface of the crank has started to break down - one of the flywheel fins was missing so may have caused it but it was the clutch side so suspect over tightened chains as route cause. On the image - look at the rough surface on one sideof the crankshaft next to the lobe! Fortunately my spares included a flywheel and crank:thumbup:

I'm too busy fixing buggered saws, what is this X Factor, some sort of porn show:-)

I am not sure two weeks holiday was a good idea, been flat out since coming back. Had an old 020 in, it has a bit of wear in the crank bearings but as these run directly on the crank, it probably wouldn't help too much so replaced the leaking seals and have given it a good going over and will be returned with the recommendation to use it as a backup saw - just too old to spend too much on. Had a 395XP in, seized so cleaned the bore and fitted a new Meteor piston - pressure and vac tested, the inlet manifold clamp bolt was stripped so replaced it and lapped in a leaking decomp valve. FS400 engine - seized, cleaned the bore and fitted a new OEM piston - rebuilt a rusty recoil and all good, Stihl 066 Magnum - suspected air leak but pressure and vac tests were OK, found fine woodchip in the carb internal strainer. Stihl 026 - won't start, pressure/vac tested OK and carb stripped, checked and cleaned - think a loosw airfilter may have stopped the choke sealing properly on start up - will see what tomorrow gives:thumbup:

Worn bar or running a 1.5mm chain on a 1.6mm bar. Sounds like the chain is slopping over in the rails do the cutters are not digging in, seen it before!

You are welcome:thumbup:

Try Garden Hire Spares or Greenstripe.net

Had ours fired up for a week or so - nice and warm:thumbup:

Thought "Pukka" made pies:confused1:

Just reported it, there are some pretty stupid people out there that will bid on such things but there again WE know what these saws should look like!

Glad it worked out OK, s big job and it looks like you have learnt a bit!

I have used the company and the ebay shop, no issues at all, very fast service. I had a major problem with a cylinder kit I got from him on the bay and he refunded my money straight away - not too many would do that so he seems like a good guy and willing to do the right thing. I will be using his products again!

Don't know how legal it is but any wood that comes down in the lanes round here, ends up thrown in the ditch and no one has complained about me chopping it up and taking it home - even the local land owner thanked me and pointed to some more I could have. The rules I use are don't trespass, if it is damn obvious whose wood it is, ask for permisssion and always clear up behind you! Oh...and if it has been stacked up neatly - it is someone elses property!!! I have had decent amonts by asking at local farms, the rest is dragged out of local ditches:thumbup: Just don't take the piss!

If you used an aftermarket cylinder, it is probably the quality of the part to blame:thumbdown:

Looks real to me........real poop:lol:

Try adjusting the coil to flywheel gap - I usually use a typical business card between the coil and magnets, loosen the coil bolts so the coil sticks to the magnet THROUGH the card and do it back up again.

Modern 125cc kart engines are limited to around 16,000rpm, the latest bike engines pre the the two stroke ban in racing were around 21,000rpm. The chainsaw engine will be pretty basic compared to the modern two stroke racing engine, modern racing or even road going two strokes will have powervalves able to pull 30bhp+ from a 125cc engine compared to 8-9bhp from a saw which hasn't got boost ports or powervalves!