spudulike

Shock horror:001_rolleyes: I have worked on a couple of the convential carb models and had very stupidly thought the MS362-C was standard carb and MS362 C-M or MS362 C-MQ were the Mtronic ones:001_rolleyes: If it is under warranty then get it back to the seller - these autotune carbs are a PITA in my opinion, great when they work but awful when playing up - you just can't get a logical angle or feel on them. Normal carbs can be bad enough but these.......and the software is damn expensive - not even sure the Stihl version is available to us mere mortals:sneaky2:

Personally, I would simply readjust the carb and then try again, if it still plays up, the carb has an accelerator pump and would replace it and then readjust. I would b surprised if the arb still played up after that. If the first tune didn't work, I would also replace the carb diaphragms gaskets and needle valve just to make sure. Carb adjustment - get the saw on an even idle if possible - if it won't idle then adjust the idle screw until it does. If it still won't idle, put the screws back on factory setting and try again. You may have limiters on the adjusters, personally I hate them as it stops you having full control of adjustment and the REAL FEEL of what the engine is doing. Anyway - the L screw (nearest the engine) should be wound in slowly and a peak in revs will be reached just before the engine starts to die, wind the screw back out, past the peak and out around 1/4 turn until the engine note changes to a slightly uneven poppy idle. Adjust the idle so it is fast enough to be even but not spin the chain. Try that - if it is no better and you are confident on rebuilding the carb - give Rowena Motors a shout and they will do the carb kit I mentioned - be aware that the accelerator pump mod needs the throttle valve and shaft removing and this can be a tricky job for both the novice and experienced alike. The accelerattor pump going symptoms are generally an uneven idle, often being fine and then picking up to a fast idle and then pop, the engine dies. Also bogging sometimeswhen revving off the idle - a damn anoying issue normally!

I see "doing what comes naturally" and "food chain" being banded about but you have to remember MAN introduced the cat in to the british countryside. I have no issue with the sparrowhawk that frequents our garden taking birds, dont like seeing it but THAT is nature. A few years ago man put Mink in to our waterways and it decimated out indiginous species - Water Vole, Otter etc ..........sounds a bit familiar???

I think the main issue here is that most dogs will be kept within the confines of their owners property and in the main, do not go round killing our wildlife unless bred to do so and show their owners some respect and loyalty. Cats on the other hand, they walk in to other peoples gardens, crap on their pea shingle/freshly dug veggie patch, kill the birds/mice etc in the garden and in our case, totally ignore the rats that nest under our shed so I have to shoot them...the rats that is! We have a rich variety of birds in the back garden down to us feeding them and to see many of the fledglings taken out by cats owned by others which isn't particularly nice. We had a fledgling blackbird once that had been disowned by its parents, we fed it all day to the point that it followed us in to the house but had to push it out for the night - next morning....the wife caught a cat ripping it apart! Not sure I like cats too much for this reason - If cats were kept in their owners gardens, it wouldn't be so much of an issue, but they aren't!

Scrench X2:thumbup:

Never had an MS200 in with a 16" bar fitted, typically 14" or a few on 12" if the owner wants a bit of zip and only cuts smaller limbs.

The most common reasons for seized saws are: - 1) Incorrect carb H screw setting 2) Old fuel where the petrol has destroyed the two stroke oil in the mix 3) Air leak - typically crank seals, split inlet manifold or impulse line 4) Split fuel line 5) Blocked fuel tank breather The description "I noticed the piston top appears to be broken around the top " needs clarifying as a seize causes little damage to the piston crown but does cause bad scoring predominantly on the exhaust port side. Not too much will destroy a piston crown, heavy detonation, a dropped decomp valve, ingress of a nut/screw into the carb, snagged ring on the downward power stroke are a few and numptey maintenance with misguided use of piston stops should be included!

I will see if the courier can really lose the saw this time:001_rolleyes:

Nice buy, good price, worth at least double that!

Bless you:lol:

I remember the outbreak of Kawasaki GPZ bikes at the Pod in the 80s, those 750 Turbos were fast bikes then - see yours is a tad faster now:thumbup:

The saw is my own, it is an old "red eye" model that had a blown coil. The coil had to be replaced with a later model which threw the ignition timing out so had to sort this out at great time with timing lights, timing wheel and keyway modification but I think I got it right. The saw has been ported and has a pop up for greater compression....but no decomp so is kicking a bit! Just needs some felling spikes on it and some time from my mate Burrell for big wood and a comparison saw and bar. There will be a vid and hope it survives and goes well. It sounds good on a muffler mod but have a racing expansion pipe off a Kawasaki to mod and attempt to fit - the CC, stroke and peak revs were similar to this saw so should make a bit more power - just playing TBH, interested in what can be done and didn't cost a fortune. The biggest change was the piston and the blowdown figure - 18.5* if Wes is online:001_rolleyes:

Many aftermarket rev/tacho meters work on induction as it is the simplest way to measure rpm on an engine, just got to make sure the gauge is set up for single cylinder engines. Some need a wire wrapped round the HT lead which can be a PTA if done on many saws, the better ones do both wire wrap or simply place it near the HT lead. Things to look out for are 0.5 second refresh for a fast accurate readout and 20krpm maximum reading - the refresh is important

Where are you, I have tach tuned saws for peope on this site as favours and others may do similar if local. Better than causing injury. Listen to good advice from the experienced!

If the manifold is split, it will be noticeable once you have it off and the part is bit expensive at over 20 quid. I can do the carb but it will have to be in 2-3 weeks time.....sorry!

It looks very good, can't remember who did it. The 066 is fully back together ported and muffler mod plus the ignition tweaks, sounds a little wild, bit like a motocrosser but we need to do a good bit of cutting cookies on some big wood and compare it with your MS660 to see what I have created:biggrin: Now for that expansion chamber:lol:

No need for appologies, I procrastinated and it theived my time:blushing: Glad all is good:thumbup:

I find it quite warming that Stihlben is giving this kit away free of charge, here's to him and his kindly offers - shame more aren't like him:thumbup:

If you are going to rev the saw up to 13Krpm and stick your machanical tach on the end of a small crankshaft end spinning at the same speed you are braver man than me. For starters, these old saws bounce all over the place when revved, secondly, I only rev the saw flat out for a second or two at a time - you will be doing it a lot longer, thirdly, it may be accurate on slow shafts but I would be surprised if it is THAT accurate at these rpms on a non fixed position engine/shaft. If you must - buy a cheap one off ebay that picks up the induction off the HT lead,. The ones we have mentioned on here are the correct and safe ones to use with the machine fully assembled and safe - your method defies my safety standards and WILL NOT tach the saw correctly as it should have the typical bar to be used fitted - the drag of the chain should be factored in when taching a saw. Your choice but I wouldn't do what you are attempting to do.

If it IS a carb issue, it will be the accelerator pump, leaking Welch plug or high speed check valve. The first two faults give poor idle, the last one, poor high speed revs. Don't rule out a split inlet manifold. Holding the machine and stressing the handle from side to side will cause the revs to change significantly.

I use a TT20K Tiny Tach, US built and is invaluable for Chainsaw technicians. If you have had the clutch off a machine and use the saw without a chain and bar on it, the clutch can spin off and if you are unlucky, could hit you or just spring apart. I have had one or two go, one quite spectacularly and took me two hours to find the parts I generally torque them where possible or run the machine flat out and slap the chain brake on a few times to tighten them as some don't have hex heads in the centre.

Thanks Chris, all sounds good and glad you are happy. Bit of a shock having to get it sorted early but was happy with the port durations and blowdown:thumbup:

If it was running when you put it away and it isn't after storage, it is almost definitely the carb is gummed up and just needs a strip down, clean and rebuild and both the H&L screws set to 1 turn. Worth checking the fuel line is OK and the fuel filter is clean. The most likely fault is the internal gauze filter in the carb has dried up crud in it - found under the single screw cover.

I tried cobalt drills by Bosch for the first time a while ago and they actually cut like you would wish them to. I use Bosch HSS for general work and the cobalt drills on tougher jobs. Drills are like files, hacksaw blades etc - you KNOW when you have a quality product and cheap stuff just doesn't cut it!!

Forgot I signed that one, got a bit carried away:blushing: