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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Try pulling the choke out and pushing it back in, open the throttle slowly and listen for a small click. If it doesn't fo this, your fast idle latch isn't working. If this is OK, it is possible the carb needs clean, adjustment or a new carb kit. Often the diaphragms go hard and stop the glow of fuel in to the metering section of the carb. The gauze filter under the single screw alloy cover on the carb can get filled with fine sawdust which will need clearing. Try not to use the decompression valve on starting as well. If you get stuck, PM me.
  2. It was an example and not a direct reference to your saw in particular!
  3. If you can get hold of the metal caged needle bearings, they are significantly stronger than the fibre ones!
  4. good sales advice, educate a customer what he is getting and make him an expert so if he goes to your competition, they will get asked some akward questions and your customer will then make a choice:thumbup:
  5. Personally I would say the 21" bar is about as good as you are likely to get. A rough rule of thumb is to take 1/3rd of the engine capacity and convert that to bar length so a 60cc saw equates to 20" - works in most cases:thumbup: A 24" - 30" would kill its usabillity IMO!
  6. In England we have an affliction called "cheap"! The first thing the general public ask on ANYTHING you are selling is "How much mate". This is done to understand they can actually afford the "Item" you you are selling. Having ascertained the product is affordable, they find out what the item is about and do they actually need it In the case of a pile of wood, if they are in the know, they may start to ask questions about wood type or moisture content.Some may just walk or possibly ask for best price or reduction for cash etc. I have had a string of questions thrown at me about products I have been selling only to be finished with a "Thank You" and the "Customer" walking away - thats life, the average bloke on the street is a cock and if you get one that is fair, reliable and decent, you are doing well:thumbup: Sometimes people just like trying to be clever and getting one over you - just move on to someone that actually has the funds and actual interest in purchasing!
  7. Whats the budget? factor in some PPE and buy a working semi or Pro saw if possible!
  8. Good luck Wes, looks a nice job:thumbup:
  9. I quite like peperami, choritzo to:thumbup:
  10. The grease shouldn't cause the slipping, are the clutch shoes OK? Try cleaninng the drum off and try it again.
  11. No saw should spin or creep the chain on idle, it is a sign that either the clutch springs are shot, the clutch system is dirty or there is binding between the crankshaft and clutch. In this case, it may just be that the new parts are bedding down as they are new but they should be OK within a fewminutes of use. SOmetimes heavy grease can cause drag that is enough to do this or a very loose chain but if not correct - back to the dealer. The only thing I would do is to rev it and slap the brake on a few times and see if that clears it. On a normal idle, does applying the brake stop the engine, if not, let the saw idle for a few minutes with the brake on. Both this and the above should sort the issue out unless there are more indepth issues involved.
  12. The decomp basically lowers compression for easier starting but to get a saw to fire, you need at least 130psi compression. On a new saw, the piston and ring won't have bedded in to the shape of each other so a brand new engine will have less compression than a used one with a few hours use. So in short, a brand new engine may be a bit sensitive to not starting on decomp when brand new. It will be a different story when a few months are over and compression is up 20psi! Some saws are worse than others 365 Huskys are a bit prone to this!
  13. I have doubts that this little saw will pull a 1.3mm chain as it will need extra power to cut the wider kerf. I once fitted a 1.5mm full chisel on a 136 Husky and it wasn't good to use, very boggy and think yours will do the same! Stick with the 1.1mm standard gauge IMO
  14. To avoid a lean seize but unlikely as Stihl have fitted a limiter on this saw and limit caps on the carb making adjustment a pig - th elimiter cuts in real early and makes the saw sound really rich and flubby.
  15. Nope. you flooded it, saturated the plug and it stopped sparking, you left the saw, the plug dried out and it started when tried again a day later. I would say that it probably felt a bit rich and smokey for 10 seconds after starting but soon cleared:thumbup1: If a saw won't easily start, don't use the decomp until it has been bedded in, when the piston is bedded, the compression will go up and the decomp can be used. Personally, I don't tend to use the decomp unless the saw is a biggie and has really big compression. The usual way of clearing flooding is to remove the plug, switch the ignition off, turn the saw upside down and pull it over fast 5 times. This clears the build up of fuel in the lower crankcase and blows it out of the plug hole! Warm the plug on a gas stove or plumbers torch and replace it, put the saw on fast idle and pull it over with gusto. If it won't pop, try the choke as on a normal cold start but no more than 3-5 pulls on full choke. This will work 90% of the time:thumbup:
  16. As Barrie says, there is lots of room for a helicoil to fit and have even fitted a carbide threaded insert in one before where the bolt head had snapped off and drillinng it out wasn't good. Just drill out both holes and then tap and wind in the helicoil. I done correctly, it will give a strong repair. I believe the thread is M5 - 0.8mm so make sure the helicoil kit you use is the right one!
  17. I often get the "it won't idle that great and it is a pig to start" and my quick explanation of what I will service convinces most that it would be a good thing to get it fully sorted! I don't get many that are running sweetly when they come in!
  18. First bit - the chainsaw doesn't have brake pads - love the humour, am splitting my sides :lol:Filters - air, fuel, gauze carb filter and oil pick up strainer are found on saws.....I have also lost count of the number of saws I have had in that have perhaps a month left on their clutch springs and a broken one will make a non working saw. Then there are worn brake bands. Caught some older saws with leaking seals that would have caused seizes within 6 months but maintenence....each man to his own! I was 20 years in manufacturing and preventitive maintenance was carried out on all machines as running 24 hr shifts put a lot of strain on the equipment and cost a fortune if we had downtime. As far as climbers using old saws, all I can do is ask for comments from some of them as I believe some of the guys I have done them for are industry rated climbers who are at the top of their game but am not going to name drop. Perhaps it is using a saw they know and rely on as a tried and trusted option - I don't know...I just fix em:thumbup:
  19. TBH, much of what I get is the saw that has been thrown under the bench months before and then the owner is faced with spending out £500 or seeing if the old scrapper is fixeable which it often is for well under £200 inc spares! Not sure that I would call MS200s "Vintage"! Had many through my workshop and they go out as fully working tools that will give a year or twos service until needing another going over. I get a few in that are working but need a service - usually just a damn good farm out and perhaps one or two issues but not enough to stop the saw being used! So you never take your car in for service or have the oil changed or brakes checked???? All machines have parts that wear and changing them before failure extends the life of the machine and the reliabillity in use. Just my opinion and that of many of my customers. Many can't afford to swap their equipment out after 1-2 years use!
  20. From what I have seen, the parts are not interchangeable and have looked at the Oregon parts selector, the IPLs and L&S website. Flog it on ebay:thumbup:
  21. Clean them out and see if the splines will grip, if they are really gone (never seen these go like this) then drill the heads off and get some grips on the studs - the only way I can see you getting them out!
  22. Just for safety sake, turn the H screw out 1/8th to 1/4 turn anticlockwise but that is about it - it will make a real difference!
  23. I have refurbed many MS200Ts 10-12 years old, there are typical components that do fail but the saws are still able to perform and are far better than the earlier version of the MS201 - cant comment on the later ones! You asked what a service includes, my services get the saw back to full working serviceable order with new parts to avoid failure in the near - mid future - replacing clutch springs is a regular occurence as is chain catchers - it stops the saw failing in a months time for £5 worth of spares!
  24. Yup, it is the simplest way of getting the saw to perform something getting closer to the MS200. Just stick a 6mm drill through the part that comes through the side cover and follow it with a 10mm drill. It will make the saw come alive but will not fix an inherent fault if there is is a fault with the saw!
  25. It could be fine saw dust in the carb inernal gauze filter or just a bit of resin in the carb. A good ultrasonic clean should sort it. Other than this, check the plug is in good condition. Worth checking the compression or taking the exhaust off to see that the piston is OK - the muffler inlet has a flange around it making replacement much easier. I have had one with a split inlet manifold which had no power and would not rev out - another thing to check! Good luck, let us know what you find

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