spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The most common causes are a plugged bar, blocked oil channel, plugged oil pump, blocked tank breather or blocked oil pickup in the tank. Check the bar oiler hole, flush the oil tank out with fuel and try new oil with a 3:1 mix oil to fuel to flush it out. If this doesn't work it will be a case of removing the clutch and covers, removin the oiler and then checking the pump isn't blocked with a plug of fine sawdust - wiggling it out with wire and blasting a bit of WD40 or carb cleaner down each hole will clear it. You may have a stripped oiler pinion gear so check this but it is not common on these saws. Good luck
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You evev seen that film "Twins",I am 6'2"that makes you the short fat one:lol:
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Forget welding it, there is a lot of magnesium in the casing alloy and personally, I don't think it will work. My suggestion is to take off the chain catcher and the dog spikes, modify the lower part of the dogs by welding in a further plate so it mounts to the chain catcher mount - you could even make a chain catcher in to the assembly but it would be of steel rather than aluminium which may cause damage to a chain when coming off. DON'T leave the chain catcher off if you do this for obvious reasons!
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Mmmm, I dont think so!
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We're still here,wading through other people's problems as usual:001_rolleyes: Nice to see you back, hope all is well with you?
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Probably just needs a bit if carb adjustment or possibly a good carb clean and new carb kit!
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Hope the other guy ws suitably peed off:lol:
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When I heard the news of him being arrested I thought.........no, not another celeb being a kiddie fiddler and felt quite relieved it was hiring a hitman and drugs - strange old world but thats.....ROCK AND ROLL:thumbup:
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Putting Aspen in a second hand saw can I just fill it up and go?
spudulike replied to hamilton32's topic in Chainsaws
On saws that have been exposed to pump fuel, you generally get a hardening of fuel lines causing eventual leaking of fuel. This is more down to the damage the pump fuel has done than the Aspen. I usually change carb parts and fuel lines when converting saws as I preffer to ensure issues are stopped before they are.........issues:thumbup: -
The other thing to leak black oily gunge will be the exhaust if it is running a bit rich or perhaps the upper shaft if it has been greased heavily but if it is coming from behind the flywheel, it sounds like bearings/seal. A bad crank bearing generally makes a rumbling hollow sound and can rattle on a slow idle - pushing the flywheel up and down and side to side should reveal a bit of play if it is shot!
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Da na Na na Na na Na.....ANGUS........ANGUS:thumbup:
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Glad you are happy with it, it is always good to know. Thanks
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I have a magnifying glass in my workshop, bad light makes my eyesight much worse - the joys of getting old..........shame my behaviour isn't more adult:lol:
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Funny enough, that is pretty much what I do and it has made a few think, especially as employers - not too clever handing a modded saw to an employee to do your work. I prefer to be 100% honest in what I do! ADW - no issue, it has come up before and there are pros and cons to the arguments. This only started when I got a bit bored in the workshop and grew a bit and then guys asked me to do their saws. I am thinking I need to draw up a contract that states clearly what the implications are and point out possible dangers. In reality, a ported saw allows larger cutting with a lighter powerhead so less fatigue on the body and less risk of fatigue related problems but that is one part of the story. Thanks for the suggestions!
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OK, so we know what the worst case scenario is......what is the solution, guys want their saws modded, I am happy to do this but don't fancy a law suit. This type of work is big in the US and that is litigation country. What do I do......stop................carry on and take the risk................get the owner to sign away any liabillity??? What is both ethical and fair - what would you do????
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A pressure check will tell you if it is shot. Other than that, block the inlet and exhaust port, put a plug in and pump air in the impulse line (hopefully it is a separate pipe) and put soapy water around the seal to see if it bubbles. If the impulse is integral to the inlet manifold, you will need to block it and adapt a spark plug. You could fill the crankcase with fuel and see if it leaks out!
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It is possible the bearing/seal has failed on the flywheel side and the oil is in fact petrol/oil mix coming out of the crankcase.
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A difficult one as I have never been in this position but the modification I do isn't illegal and breaks no laws. Can or will it injure - the chain speed is unlikely to come out of the maximum free-standing speed of something like a 242XP, the power of say a 346XP will be nowhere near that of a MS660, the torque of a 346XP will be nowhere near a MS660 so it isn't as if I am making something operate out of normal conditions. I guess I could or should get a document to state it is a modified saw and as such may not meet the original CE markings or safety requirements of the original saw but it gets to that crunchy area where you think...bollocks, it isn't worth it anymore! One to ponder on I guess!
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A picture may save a thousand words, anyone hot any good pics? I personally know what's what - this is for people that don't
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I guess the same can be asked of chipped cars or any equipment that is modified. I usually make sure that the saw is to be used by the owner of the saw and not by employees as their safety and duty of care is up to their employer. In short, I modify a saw, it is up to the owner to use it safely. All modified saws get their chainbrake and chain catcher checked over and it surprises me the number that come in with the chain catcher missing! if I damaged myself with one of my modified saws, I would put it down as an accident but am as sure as I can be that the accident would have probably occurred with or without the modification.
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Good ethics - nice to see this in the world of A holes we live in:001_rolleyes:
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Will PM you!
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You can probably get a gasket kit off ebay or Garden Hire Spares/GreenStripe are good, You can drop the base gasket and use a high temp liquid gasket to seal the joint - it will give extra oomph but make sure you clear the carbon from the squish band if you do this!
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Muffler mod, open and re-shape the inlet and exhaust ports, reshape the upper transfers, open and flow the lowers a little, muffler mod and lower the squish - it will put a smile on your face and go like a scalded cat:thumbup: I also make sure the engine is airtight and make sure the piston and bore are in good shape whilst I am at it plus the fuel system gets a going over - bit like an indepth service with some heavy modification!
