spudulike

Mmm, done it once before but it isn't in the rule book:blushing: It is a little off piste:lol: Will need the replacement piston before I start grinding!

What is wrong with the original cylinder? I have salvaged around 90-95% of seized cylinders and then just replaced the piston with a Meteor one. The OEM ones are without doubt the best option if it can be salvaged.

No worries, did two for Stevie Blair and one had a glass fibre caged needle bearing with all the rollers missinng and that much slop it had eaten the end of the oiler arm. The other had a metal bearing that was actually in good condition but the drum was shagged and had ..........eaten the end of the oiler arm:001_rolleyes: The steel caged bearings are tougher IMO!

Thats interesting, on my IPL it only listed the assembly.......there you go Matty or have you buggered the thing taking it out!!!!:lol:

Hope it works out for you and all is good with the saw. It sort of looks clean but does look to have had more than two goes!

So what happened to the original crank? Only one stuffer had failed, can you get hold of another - just checked and know you need to order the whole unit from Husqvarna:thumbdown: You could take out both stuffers and see how it runs!! What are you doing about the cylinder - hope it isn't that one I returned you are using:001_rolleyes:

Try the metal caged needle roller bearing - as mentioned recently on this thread. It should help a fair bit:thumbup:

150psi is fine, it is what I would expect and if it hasn't been used much, would expect it to go up a little with use - perhaps 10-15psi. If you take the muffler off, can you see machining marks on the piston skirt? Does the crown of the piston have much carbon on it? Try taking the plug out and shine a bright LED torch down the hole and take a look at the exhaust side of the cylinder and look for any vertical aluminium transfer or scoring on the area directly above the exhaust port and also look for diagonal honing marks on this area. It is possible that the saw has failed and had a new piston of some sort "thrown in" and sold on. A 395 on a short bar should be unstoppable, these saws are full of torque and just slapping on a twin port muffler isn't the way out. I always make sure the piston and cylider are in fine condition before doing any porting - telling someone their piston is shagged isn't always appreciated but getting saw back that goes like stink and will last five years plus for the extra £30 for a decent Meteor Italian piston is a small price to pay! One other thing to try is to get the saw warm and do the compression check again, if it is under 140psi, I would be getting a little concerned. It may be worth looking at the bolts around the carb and cylinder and see if there are any signs that the saw has been apart! If you want a second opinion............................PM me!

I hope not the plug looks a bit black which is better than white. Give it a good blast and check again. A mid tan colour is about right.

The compression is a bit of an issue, you will only get a reading by drop starting the saw as it is a big engine with lots of compression and generally saws that big are not easy to spin over fast enough to get a good reading unless drop started or using the decomp that stops a correct reading. Having said that, expect 150-170 on a good running engine. The dual port muffler will make a good difference however on an old saw such as your 056, it will have had a pretty free flowing muffler anyway so a muffler mod may not give as big a difference on a more restricted modern machine.

Got to say it was Barrie (Gardenkit) who said it first, I was just agreeing.......robustly:lol: Glad we were right:thumbup:

Now that doesn't surprise me Matty:001_rolleyes:

Personally I would buy a tach and then just tune the MS660s down to 12,500rpm, 1,000rpm under the maximum rpm for the saw and plenty of safety buffer. The mix is one element as is the type of oil, air leaks and also how the machine is set up. If the saw is tached with a new piston, maximum revs will change as it beds down and also the length of the bar will change the flat out speed of the saw. If the saw was tached at say 13,000rpm on a 3' bar, if someone slaps on a 20" one, it will add to the chances of it failing! It isn't JUST about fuel mix!

But a bent con rod will make the engine hard to turn over/tight at different parts of the stroke - in the vid, there is a very solid mechanical knock at two very distinct places when the flywheel is rotated one way and the other. I would bet £100 on this one being one of the flywheel alloy shroud bolts coming out and clouting the higher parts of the backside of the flywheel!

OK, understand but never felt the need to on these saws, always good starters when set up right IMO!

I thought the 353, 346, 357, 359 all shared the same choke design, no halfway setting:confused1:

I think they did the metal one, how about checking:thumbup:

The metering arm is the smal steel arm that is found under the diaphragm which is under the four screw cover on the carb. On your saw, you can actually get to it without removing the carb. Be careful how you remove the diaphragm, a sharp scalpel around the edge should shift it. The metering arm should be level with the alloy suround the diaphragm sits on. If there is no fuel in this chamber, it is likely that the diaphragm isn't opening the needle valve that sits on the other end so bending it up around 0.5mm may help you get the saw going. Pushing on this metering arm should allow the fuel to flow, especially if you pop off the filler cap and push it soon after replacing it as the tank will have some pressure in it! You PM me by clicking on my username and then "send a personal message" only bother if the advice here is not helping you and you need someone to look at the saw and resolve the issues. It will be either that or the local repair man/agent.

I have seen one filtted and thnk some of the Chinese manufacturers do them. Try a specialist online bearig reseller - probbly your best bet!

Gardenkit is spot on, this isa classic symptom of one of the bolts come loose. You will need to pop off the flywheel to tighten the bolt but it will cure the issue I am sure!

How bad is it? Is the bore actually scored, is it aluminium trsnsfer and is the scoring so fine, it doesn't matter? I have salvaged hundreds of saws with transfer on them, get us a photo to look at so a judgment can be made. The loose exhaust may have leaned the saw down or caused debris to enter the exhaust port and damage the bore.

If fuel isn't being pulled through (plug remains dry after pulls on choke) the issue will most likely be a split fuel line or an issue with the metering arm beig low or the diaphragm going hard and stiff:blushing: Cleaning the carb can be done by removing the H&L screws and using carb cleaner down the holes or using a decent Ultrasonic cleaner and specialist cleaning agents. The issue is probably not dirt in the carb but may be the gauze filter as mentioned earlier.

Ah, thought that was the CM model - baffling:confused1:

Is that the standard carb model? I have done a couple and it gives the saw a fair bit more go! The "CM" is the Mtronic one isn't it??? The ones I have done are the normal adjust carb!

Looks like Arbtalk is all about Sartorial excellence nowerdays rather than modded chainsaws:lol: