spudulike

Nope. you flooded it, saturated the plug and it stopped sparking, you left the saw, the plug dried out and it started when tried again a day later. I would say that it probably felt a bit rich and smokey for 10 seconds after starting but soon cleared:thumbup1: If a saw won't easily start, don't use the decomp until it has been bedded in, when the piston is bedded, the compression will go up and the decomp can be used. Personally, I don't tend to use the decomp unless the saw is a biggie and has really big compression. The usual way of clearing flooding is to remove the plug, switch the ignition off, turn the saw upside down and pull it over fast 5 times. This clears the build up of fuel in the lower crankcase and blows it out of the plug hole! Warm the plug on a gas stove or plumbers torch and replace it, put the saw on fast idle and pull it over with gusto. If it won't pop, try the choke as on a normal cold start but no more than 3-5 pulls on full choke. This will work 90% of the time:thumbup:

As Barrie says, there is lots of room for a helicoil to fit and have even fitted a carbide threaded insert in one before where the bolt head had snapped off and drillinng it out wasn't good. Just drill out both holes and then tap and wind in the helicoil. I done correctly, it will give a strong repair. I believe the thread is M5 - 0.8mm so make sure the helicoil kit you use is the right one!

I often get the "it won't idle that great and it is a pig to start" and my quick explanation of what I will service convinces most that it would be a good thing to get it fully sorted! I don't get many that are running sweetly when they come in!

First bit - the chainsaw doesn't have brake pads - love the humour, am splitting my sides :lol:Filters - air, fuel, gauze carb filter and oil pick up strainer are found on saws.....I have also lost count of the number of saws I have had in that have perhaps a month left on their clutch springs and a broken one will make a non working saw. Then there are worn brake bands. Caught some older saws with leaking seals that would have caused seizes within 6 months but maintenence....each man to his own! I was 20 years in manufacturing and preventitive maintenance was carried out on all machines as running 24 hr shifts put a lot of strain on the equipment and cost a fortune if we had downtime. As far as climbers using old saws, all I can do is ask for comments from some of them as I believe some of the guys I have done them for are industry rated climbers who are at the top of their game but am not going to name drop. Perhaps it is using a saw they know and rely on as a tried and trusted option - I don't know...I just fix em:thumbup:

TBH, much of what I get is the saw that has been thrown under the bench months before and then the owner is faced with spending out £500 or seeing if the old scrapper is fixeable which it often is for well under £200 inc spares! Not sure that I would call MS200s "Vintage"! Had many through my workshop and they go out as fully working tools that will give a year or twos service until needing another going over. I get a few in that are working but need a service - usually just a damn good farm out and perhaps one or two issues but not enough to stop the saw being used! So you never take your car in for service or have the oil changed or brakes checked???? All machines have parts that wear and changing them before failure extends the life of the machine and the reliabillity in use. Just my opinion and that of many of my customers. Many can't afford to swap their equipment out after 1-2 years use!

From what I have seen, the parts are not interchangeable and have looked at the Oregon parts selector, the IPLs and L&S website. Flog it on ebay:thumbup:

Clean them out and see if the splines will grip, if they are really gone (never seen these go like this) then drill the heads off and get some grips on the studs - the only way I can see you getting them out!

Just for safety sake, turn the H screw out 1/8th to 1/4 turn anticlockwise but that is about it - it will make a real difference!

I have refurbed many MS200Ts 10-12 years old, there are typical components that do fail but the saws are still able to perform and are far better than the earlier version of the MS201 - cant comment on the later ones! You asked what a service includes, my services get the saw back to full working serviceable order with new parts to avoid failure in the near - mid future - replacing clutch springs is a regular occurence as is chain catchers - it stops the saw failing in a months time for £5 worth of spares!

Yup, it is the simplest way of getting the saw to perform something getting closer to the MS200. Just stick a 6mm drill through the part that comes through the side cover and follow it with a 10mm drill. It will make the saw come alive but will not fix an inherent fault if there is is a fault with the saw!

It could be fine saw dust in the carb inernal gauze filter or just a bit of resin in the carb. A good ultrasonic clean should sort it. Other than this, check the plug is in good condition. Worth checking the compression or taking the exhaust off to see that the piston is OK - the muffler inlet has a flange around it making replacement much easier. I have had one with a split inlet manifold which had no power and would not rev out - another thing to check! Good luck, let us know what you find

I know you guys love your chainsaws but giving one a blow job.....thats weird.........did you swallow:blushing:........petrol does taste horible and not good belching afterwards:thumbdown:

The backfiring is the spark plug firing on the downward stroke with ignition timing well thrown out by a damaged flywheel key. It is a classic sign and on a new saw - it is back to the dealer. A new one should really be fitted although you can get round it with a timing wheel and a bit of luck.........but not on a new saw!

You must check to see of your carb still has the limiter caps still fitted. Just shine a torch down the holes and look for either plastic red screw caps or black metal slotted head. If metal, screw the screws all the way on lightly and then unscrew one turn out. The H screw is critical, make sure it is a good and accurate one turn out. If you have limiters, there are settings but just aim for the middle position between the fully in and fully out position. This full turn is typically 3/4 of a turn, if it is much more then the limiters may have been damaged so again go very careful on the H screw. Too far in and it will seize Common fuel issues on a 460 are fine wood chip on the internal gauze filter under the large dingle screw cover on the carb or fine sawdust under the diaphragm cover on the other side. The 460 is a good saw and do not worry about the banter on here:001_rolleyes:

Yup, decent stove and free wood, that's the answer, haven't paid for wood for ten years. I have got a few chainsaws now though:sneaky2:

Good luck Chris, give the others a real hard time. Hope the 660 is working well:thumbup:

Take them back to the dealer, they should be still under warranty and unlikely to be that crudded up under the cover!

Not sure if the bearings you are replacing are the crank ones but generally they last a damn long time and would only replace them if there is play in the crankshaft - typically this will be the clutch side but if the flywheel is damaged, it can knock the flywheel one out and quickly. Seals - worth doing as they often cause seizes but personally would do a pressure check afterwrds if you are able to do so. Top end, depends on budget, Hyway parts are OK and you will get the saw running but would expect a longer life out of the Meteor kit. 60psi- I don't believe any saw will start with compression that low. Is that just one pull as you need to keep pulling until it won't rise any further - typically 100psi for a non running seize, 120psi for a real poor runner with a mild seize and 145-150 psi on a good running 365, they were never big on compression.

Meteor do manufacture a 372XP cylinder and piston, fitted one on a Jonnie some time ago for "treemonkey" and it was good.

You often can see no splaying - it is more obvious from the roll of the chain from side to side. In extreme cases, the chain will wear all the cutters on one side only and you can be stood there with the saw going full pelt with absolutely no cutting taking place. Move the bar a tad and it then rips through - a weird effect!

You can hammer the rails back in to shape - you need a solid bench vice and a mid size hammer and give the hammer a decent wallop and let it bounce on the bar after the hit, do this at close intervals along both sides of the bar on the rails and keep checking with the chain and avoid over closing the rail as it will pinch. If it does this, seperate the rails with a large screwdriver - a little harsh but it will work if you are carefull and patient. The splay is just bending, overheating or wear! The above may not last a long time but may be worth a punt. Good point on the depth of the rails - generally must be 5mm + or the standard depth of the drive link plus a clearance!

It is possible that the rails are splayed and the chain is kicking over a little allowing only the cuters on one side to cut. Try moving the chain from side to side in the bar and see how much it wobbles from side to side. Other usual suspects are the rails uneven - best put the bar in a bench vice and lay a straight edge across it at different positions and check it is at right angles to the bar.

Stihls are relatively easy to do, just get the piston stopped with either rope (making sure it doesn't go down the exhaust port or transfers) or the nylon double ended Stihl stop, place the socket on the clutch and place the saw on the floor, foot in the rear handle, hand on the top handle, use a decent length socket wrench and pop, off it will come. Done loads and never a real issue - had to grind flat the rolled edges of an impact socket once as the nut was a bit shagged but it popped off just fine! It really is no biggie IMO:001_rolleyes:

Get a cast iron bath, get a load of US transducers and JB weld them to the underneath.....can ya tell where this is going yet...........get one big feck off output card and there you go, a Redneck US cleaner - think I may patent it for use with grease monkeys like us! One a serious note, I read of a sub mariner who stuck his feet in an industrial US cleaner and his bones shattered when he stood up - sounds horrific:thumbdown: Don't know how true it was!

Same here, in the early years, I used Ryobi bio oil and it gummed up my bars when left on the shelf - spawn of beelzebub IMO I have 5l of solvent from my screen printing days that disolves this stuff and pine resin.....plus some plastics:blushing: Hope it never runs out!