spudulike

I had an MS880 in with a very similar fault. The spare tank was that pricey I made a metal support plate and bonded/screwed it to the bottom of the saw, sprayed it grey and then put the handle back on. It looked pretty good and solid!

As fast as I clear up the saws, more keep flowing in. Just got a 372XPT in for porting and someone else dropping in a Stihl 020AVT on Boxing Day:sneaky2: - it never bloody well stops:lol: Think I should have gone abroad for Christmas:thumbup:

Pop off the E clip (circlip) that holds the sprocket and retaining washer on, remove these components, grease the bearing with heavy HT grease or similar, push the sprocket back on making sure the oiler arm lines up with the small cut out in the outer rim of the drum, and replace the washer and e clip. Make sure the e clip is located correctly and off you go. It is worth pushing lightly on the opposite sides of the clutch in turn to gauge how worn the bearing is. If the play is excessive, replace the bearing and if still there, replace the drum. The grease tends to get chucked out PDQ, not much you can do about it! On 261s with excessive play on the drum, check the oiler arm hasn't been broken or worn away - it should mesh with the clutch drum notch. If it is damaged, order a new one and is available with or without the nylon pinion.

In two stroke terms, the power band is set by the top of the exhaust port but that is just one small part of the story. When you port tune a two stroke, you are trying to maximise flow through the engine and increase the fuel/air charge in the engine. You also increasse the compression and doing all this is to increasse power which isn't necessarily to increase the flat out speed of the engine under no load but to increase the speed of the engine when under load. It is a bit like revving your car at standstill or heading for a steep hill and flooring it. Revving at standstill is pretty meaningless - more important is the speed under load, the other is the torque or abillity to keep cutting when more force is exerted on the saw. It is true that a ported saw will hold higher no load revs due to larger amount of fuel/air being pulled through but the speed of the saw under load under duress is of greater interest and use.

generally under the stainless protector plate around the bar studs and oil pump! make sure it allows air in!

If the oiler is plugged, the air may have failed to remove the plug, it can be pretty hard and difficult to remove. If you use a liquid aerosol, you can see there is flow on it. If you can attach a pipe on it, blowing through it is possible. There will be something wrong with it, it is just finding it. Have you checked the tank breather? That can reduce flow significantly. Check the breather and look at the pump again.

Try Oregon Microlite Pro with 95VPX chain. It is a narrow kerf system with a 1.3mm chain on 0.325 pitch. The marketing says it is 15% faster in the cut and the truth is.................it is 15% faster in the cut:thumbup: I use this on my ported 357XP, you basically are cutting with a narrower bar and chain which saps less power than a wider system with full chisel. I have timed it and thats how I know!

15.5mm O/D - just whatever suitable stock I have to hand! Shutting for Christmas - will keep going until I am finished:thumbup:

I haven't read the rest of this post but here is my list: - 1) Flush the tank out with fuel to clear any gloopy shyte 2) take the oil pump off and get some WD40 etcin to one side of the pump so it blows out of the other side - if this doesn't happen, rotate the oil pump gear until it does. 3) Repeat above but blow the WD40 in from the other side of the pump - very fine woodchip can build up and plug pumps - a very common fault. 4) take the oil cap off and blast some WD40 down the oil pickup pipe that goes in to the tank. 5) blast some WD40 down the hole in the oil channel where the bar gets its oil from - make sure the hole isn't plugged. 6) CAREFULLY inspect the oiler pinion gear, make sure there isn't a flat worn on ANY of its gear, rotate it round following the thread making sure it is intact and perfect all the way round - I had one that had a break in the thread and had moulded in to a complete ring so it wouldn't drive the oiler gear. 7) Make sure whatever drives the oiler pinion gear is meshed correctly with the gear, if it is the clutch drum, pull it as far out as you can and ensure there is good contact between the two. If you do the above, it is highly unlikely you wont have found the fault:thumbup:

The MS360 is pretty much ported, there is a significant bit of port widening that can be done, the muffler lends itself to having a larger outlet fitted and the base gasket can be left out and still retain enough squish. Compression cold has gone up from 150psi to 165psi. I also tweaked the ignition by 5 degrees. I have tried it and it can be leant on hard without stalling it so it has plenty of torque. I still have to tach it and give it a longer run up but it seems pretty good now.

I liked my 345, didn't cost a lot but went well and cut a decent amount of firewood with it. Repalced with a 346XP now- like the 345 on steroids!

Not sure if it is a 345 if it has a bulb primer as the one I had didn;t have one - you should hope it is a 346NE:thumbup: If you are near Exeter, give Barrie (Gardenkit) a try, he is a decent honest tech with a good understanding of saws:thumbup:

I have a slight case of disability tonight after a huge plate of fish and chips but think I will be back to normal after a good dump in the morning:lol:

I believe that was me who came up with that theory first when my ported 346XP four stroked at well under one turn out on the H screw. I then found other machines doing the same and logic says, more flow in the carb choke means more venturi effect and greater pull on the fuel in the metering section. Not sure I have ever seen anyone else mention it but the theory is basic physics and Eddies experiment backs it up in a simple practical experiment. I don't tend to write down rubbish, just fact from what I find:thumbup:

Sometimes I wish:001_rolleyes: Glad she isn't on Arbtalk:blushing:

While you are at it, check the fuel filter in the fuel tank is OK and also check the little tube at th bottom of the manifold where the carb attaches is connected both ends - this is the impulse line. If it still wont start or even pop after 10 pulls o full choke, pull the spark plug and make sure it is wet. If you havent already, pull off the muffler and make sure the piston looks smooth looking and not scored! Where are you? perhaps one of the techs on here is local.

You need to remove the air filter, the throttle linkage and kill wires, remove the location bolts and remove the carb. Take off the carb top cover by removing the large single screw and it is a small round wire filter. Make sure there is no fine wood chip in there!

It is bad enough bring blamed for my own mistakes let alone yours Wes:sneaky2:

Oh dear:sneaky2: Think that will be a job for Christmas afternoon after a bottle or two of vino - will be in the mood for it:001_rolleyes: Yes, send it over and I will see what I can do. That cylinder will be mighty tricky so no blame if it turns to brown warm stuff:blushing:

Already beat you to that Bob:thumbup: had many a machine in that has expired twice due to just slapping on a new top end and thinking all will be OK!

Hope it doesn't include the family over Christmas - not sure they would be so easy to reinstall - may get some peace and quiet though:lol:

The OP said it was locked solid, seizure can cause this as can the end of the air filter screw falling in to the combustion chamber, the coil contacting the flywheel or the big end going. The fact it ran again leads to seizure or the end of the air filter housing screw but we shall see!

It may be the clutch needle bearing, the crank bearing, possibly the coil is touching the flywheel lightly. The clutch bearing is the most likely, does putting the chain brake on stop the noise!

I think the KM85 is two stroke - I guess the OP may spend all Christmas searching for the valves:blushing: Back to the issue - try pulling off the top cover and muffler to make sure the piston is in good shape! If there are any deep vertical scores in the piston, it has been seized - you can also use a compression gauge if you have one - anything over 145psi is OK. If this is OK, check the gauze filter like Barrie said, often worth pulling out the H and L screws and getting some carb cleaner down them plus check the metering arm height is correct - usually it should be level with the carb body when a flat edge is put across it! If that doesn't do it, check the coil to flywheel gap with a business card - the coils can be a bit iffy! Other than that, the lack of starting may be a