spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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You lot have OCD:001_rolleyes:
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Seem to remember the 372XP had a high rise kit on it:thumbup: That is a beast of a saw:thumbup1:
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Model Profile: 75
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looks like a Jonsered75 to me
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Agree, 70cc saws are nicer on a 20" unless they have been enhanced:thumbup:
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The simple way to tell what the air filter and the air injection system does is to tach a saw with the top cover on. tach it with the top cover off and then once more with the air filter off. See where the saw runs at the highest WOT revs and you have an answer. I have done this on an MS200T once and it pulled another 1krpm showing that the air filter does reduce airflow and significantly so. Having a larger airfilter will increase performance and will do more so when it has seen a few hours work when the smaller one would be fully clogged with chip and the larger one much less so. Porting and MMs are all about improving the flow of an engine, the airfilter is another part of the equation. Stubbys saw already has improved flow so reckon the airfilter mod should enhnce it some more!
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The 372Xtorq and 365 Xtorq are the same saw but the 365 has slight restrictions in the transfer covers, buy the 365 and convert it when the warranty runs out. It is relatively simple:thumbup: Both are decen saws IMO!
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This may help, I was comparing it to an antique piece of furniture if it went over some peoples heads:001_tt2:
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In the early days I picked up a 254XP and the owner said it had good compression, got it home without checking, picked it up with the recoil pull and it fell to earth that fast I though the plug was out. Found out it only had 3/4 of the piston ring and the end of the piston skirt was missing! I pointed out to the seller that he had said he put it in the shed and then it wouldn't start and he wasn't very interested:sneaky2: A bad case of Caveat Emptor!
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They are the ones at the bottom of the volcano in my world:thumbup:
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Forgot to mention, the workbench and tools got a good clean up yesterday, the compressor blows crap just about everywhere when cleaning saws so got rid of a few months worth of crud that had been blasted all over the place. Barrie wouldn't be impressed as I still use the volcano method of tool selection but it works for me:001_tongue:
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Put it like this, they have Queen Anne legs, a Serpentine front, inlaid wood and nice patination! Oh - also cost a fortune secondhand unless very lucky and bear little resemblance to modern saws:sneaky2:
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I am pretty sure that the saw will also have variable ignition advance and not a built in set curve like standard coils. These saws have two sets of magnets on the flywheel which is different from normal saws - to re-map, you would need to reprogram the electronics with what to do in different scenarios and that is if you knew which programming language these things work on and if the logic was understood- it isn't JUST about maximum revs with these things. I know Wyk had some issues with his MS241bogging down but had great top end power. Easy to adjust with a normal carb but with the autotune...no idea:confused1: We banged around some ideas, not sure if they helped or not.
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Same way it works out how much fuel/air to give it when the saw picks up, hits wood, boggs down a bit etc. The autotune just takes in what is going on with the saw and makes adjustments to make the most power for the situation the saw is in. The only issue I have is that you have NO control over what the autotune is doing and if the saw does something it shouldn't - idle too low/high/ bogging ..... you have no way of adjusting it. Porting and seeing if the autotune will work and make the porting work perform is a matter of suck it and see which is why I haven't done one to date as it could be an expensive mistake with a customer saw. A muffler mod works and the autotune accommodates it but we shall see what happens to Eddies and Mattys saws one done - a £300 top end wouuld be an expensive mistake if the saw didn't take to the mods but would say it is unlikely!
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Fixing up non running saws and getting them ready for sale is how I started, half the battle is not to be told what the parts do but to work out what they do and how all the parts fit together and why. Makes sense to buy a low cost scrapper - 346/357 Stihl 024,026 these saws have loads of parts avilable aftermarket and OEM plus many are interchangeable so getting hold of them is always pretty simple. Personally I would stick with a Pro saw as the finished item will be worth the work. I feel like I may have a "new friend" when this project gets on the road:001_rolleyes: It is very satisfying turning knackered scrap back in to a tool for work:thumbup:
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You can't "remap" the autotune, all you can do is let the autotune do its business and hope that it can cope with the porting within its operating paramaters!
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Seen this fault on more than one 357XP now, the owner has taken the handle off at some stage and then put the longer bolts in the lower part of the handle. The trouble with this is that they contact the underside of th oil tank slowly boring their way in and also cause some very interesting vibration when the saw is not in the cut. Note the bare metal wear opposite the location bolt - the bolt fitted is the correct length one in the image!
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Whenever I sell on ebay, each saw gets a video of ot running, no arguments then! I also describe it as it is with any defects noted and pictured! Seems this guy was less than honouralble and there are many out there, I put it in the shed and it was running but now it won't start is a common one, what they fail to mention is it seized big style before going in the shed! I usully factor in enough money for a new piston and more if buying anything on the bay, I don't take too much at face value!
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Check the wiring loomb where it goes over the top AV just between the cylinder and airfilter housing recoil side. It has the tendency to chafe through the wiring and earth the kill wire. Usually worth disconecting the kill wire off the coil and try this. The good news is that Stihl used this coil on loads of saws so they are VERY plentiful!
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Get well soon, hope you get up and running fast:thumbup:
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That cup looks pretty worn to me - see if there is a ridge where the pawls connect with the cup - it loooks significantly worn to me! Check the pawls pop out when the cord is pulled - they can be a bit sticky!
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If the original is 150mm and you are trying to fit a 120mm one, there is no way it will fit, it will simply not extend that far! If the spring was 150mm +........you could cut it to size!
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I have got longer springs and cut them down before. As long as the diameter is about right and the wire gauge is similar, it works. This is if the original part is unavailable!
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I think you are looking for a Husqvarna 365/372 or a Stihl MS460/441 or similar, all will handle 2' timber if that is the diameter you are looknig at. It the diameter is smaller - 1' - 1.5', a Husqvarna 560XP would be a good choice. Some on here will recommend other manufacturers such as Dolmar and Makita but have little experience of them. Get some training and PPE or someone who knows their trade to take you through how to use a chainsaw safely.
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They send the Paypal Mothership round to vapourise him with its death beam:thumbup:
