spudulike

I thought you liked a 13" on a 50cc saw Matty, 13-15" would be my choice, just depends on the next saw size you are using. If it was a 660 wearing a 2' bar then 15 - 16"...............and so on!

Where did you get that one from Andy:sneaky2:

The service manual is usually the last thing I look at, usually when I come across something I have never seen before like a part that looks like it should come off but simply will not!

Well, I can honestly say the wife is now fully trained........Guy knocks on the door and hands the wife a leaflet for tree services and says he has seen my small pile of wood and did we want some more. Straight in there "I don't think I want to purchase any:blushing:"....answer....."No No, I just want to get rid of it and save the tipping bill as I have another job"....."Ah - What wood is it?"....."Ash":thumbup: "That will be very nice then and did I tell you my husband services chainsaws, he is well respected on Arbtalk and works with some of the local businesses saws":lol: Even I was impressed, not sure too many wives would know Ash is the king of burning wood and have the cheek to turn the sales pitch around:lol: All good, I was happy, nice pile of wood and just right for seasoning for the burner!

The issue with Chinese manufactured products is us, the consumer. We always want "Cheap" and because we want "Cheap" we often get "Crap" &......"Cheap". With most manufactured products, there is a price that fits a product that will last and has been designed and manufactured to high specifications. So...a £600 chainsaw should last many years, work well, be safe and have spares availability. When you purchase a sub £100 chainsaw of similar size, why be surprised that the recoil rope snaps, it won't start, the case is made of cheese and it is generally Poo???? Chinese manufacturers can manufacture quality product if dictated to do so by Western companies so Blount Oregon - if they have specified that the bar must meet or exceed Canadian standards of manufacture....all is good but if they want to cut £15 off the purchase price and don't push for the highest levels of quality, we will get soft cheese like bars that fall apart - lets hope it is the former:thumbup:

Thats a whopper, hope the rebuild goes OK, Martin is a decent fella, if you get stuck, ask for any advice. When you get the crank cases bolted back together and it is a bit tight, wallop the crank ends with a mallet and it will free it up!

Thats easy Matt, I finished my splitter the day after you smashed up your 372 crank Even better, it works really well:thumbup:

It is because very few people today have any sort of mechanical aptitude and to them it is just a lever or button or handle, no thought about what is happening under the covers. How many people nowerdays ride the clutch on the car rather than knocking it in to neutral and how many people push the ratchet button in on the handbrake rather than push it in and lift? Same thing, different machine! I guess they are "Knob Jockeys":lol:

Pulling the flywheel is the easy bit, just lock the piston with a stop, spin off the flywheel nut off anti clockwise. Screw in the puller in to the flywheel with the bolt screwed out a bit and when fully in, screw in the bolt and do it up until the flywheel pops off.

And that is the critical WOT test during a service and perhaps once in a while as a safety test. I test the brake as that is what any good tech would do and even more important on the ported kit. I guess the H&S guys want it done daily but is probably overkill! Holding the revs below typical "in the wood" speed will keep it out of the power-band so will give you a softer test than flat out and bang!

I don't see what the issue is, if the saw is at idle then the brake merely holds the clutch drum in place - bit like putting your car brakes on at standstill:confused1: Sure, the snap action will cause some slight wear but better to do that than take a slip, grab the throttle and bingo, hospital food:thumbdown: I am like Peaff - home firewood but do pull wood out of ditches and the like so if I am positioning myself on uneven ground before I take a cut, the chain brake is on - I am usually by myself so even more important to stay safe!

In manufacturing if a machine is missing its safety guard, an employee is well within their rights to refuse to use it. A forklift driver is also well within their rights to use equipment that their training deems dangerous. Not sure how this one stands but would suspect the decision lays with the experienced climber having the final decision and if there were no politics going on, would expect a court would side with the climbers final decision!

If you can make it out of Dorset, you are always welcome Jon:thumbup: May even get the wife to make you a cuppa:lol:

Because they are fiddly little feckers at the best of times and most struggle with any sort of maintenance:001_rolleyes:

First of all you need to understand your market. How many Arbs will actually go out and buy a top handled saw and how many will buy YOUR one. You need to look at the cost of the saw, how much people are currently paying and which part of the market you aim to hit - probably top end Pro!That is your "Target Price"! However good your saw is, people do have some sort of loyalty to manufacturers that have been around for years! You are competing with the two big chainsaw/Garden equipment companies and also the likes of Dolmar/Makite/Echo and all those cheap Chinese saws. Safety certification, CE marking, materials certification (has to come from countries, suppliers and materials mined in an ethical manner) etc will be a major problem - these test houses charge £££ to test a bit of kit and if it fails....you can do it all over again for £££££ The other companies have a range of kit they offer out, some will make greater margin and will support the company to produce other products needed by the customers but are less economically viable. Then there is the question of spares and agents - most guys will need to be able to get spares easily, how will this be done? Marketing - how are you going to get the message out to others! A nice idea technically but commercially a very difficult one. I wouldn't sink a few hundred thousand in to it of my own ££££, that's for sure!

My speed/power control arrived from China, typically no instructions and nothing coming from the eBay seller but have looked online and others have how to wire it up so will experiment with it next time a chain needs doing. It should cut down on the cutters building up heat and hardening the chain!

I have heard that Stihls are that good that you can run them on neat fuel....

Just checked the IPL, there are three types of exhaust, one has a spark arrestor that unscrews from the exhaust outlet so if your blower has a hexagonal nut around the exhaust outlet - undo it and take the screen out as it may well be blocked and be blowing out around the muffler bolts!

I don't know then, usually oil coming out from the exhaust is too much oil or too rich mix. The exhaust isn't carboned up is it, not sure much else would cause it!

If you are getting oil coming out of the exhaust, it sounds like there is too much in the fuel/oil mix. Two strokes should burn off any oil in the mix used and next to nothing should remain as a fluid to drip out of the exhaust. A blower would be used flat out so even less chance of it building up fuel/oil mix. Is the carb adjusted correctly - too rich and it may do this but also wouldn't rev out well and would smoke!

I would normally take the recoil off and turn the engine in the correct way until it jams and note where the piston stops - is it close or on the top of the cylinder? Now try taking it backward and see where it sticks, is it in the same position - you could mark the piston through the exhaust port and see if it happens at the same position. If this does stop in exactly the same position then it looks like there is something embedded in the top of the piston or in the cylinder - if the piston is well off TDC then it is jamming elsewhere! Interesting fault!

Sounds like something has gone in to the cylinder and is now stopping it turning over, the most likely thing is a bit of debris stuck on the outer part of the piston and stuck in the squishband area. It is possible to tap the piston against the obstruction LIGHTLY, lower the pistonand look at the crown through the spark plug hole and exhaust port for the witness mark. The other possible issue is that you have used overly long bolts in the exhaust and they have pushed in to the cylinder deforming it - this would be REALLY bad:thumbdown: The obstruction may just be carbon of bits of gasket etc - I have seen carbon stop a saw pulling over cleanly. Best thing to do is find the issue and clear it - make sure it is JUST sticking at TDC top dead centre and try turning the saw back the other way and see where it sticks when turned backwards!

It is a standard test that should be done at service, I always do this to make sure the band isn't snapped and the mechanism shuts the saw down immediately. You also do other checks on the mechanism and band during service - The device should be regularly tested, perhaps from lower speed than flat out when in use but your training will tell you what is acceptable!

I need to reassemble it with the gasket in place, measure the squish and then decide what material to remove from the cylinder base and piston outer crown. I am pretty sure the aftermarket piston will be the same dims as the OEM part give or take half a thou but fitting and checking it will sort that out. Just a case of reassembling the saw and measuring again after the work is done - Martin has a fine end result..................second time round.........sorry Martin:001_rolleyes:

Sealall is about the best stuff I have found to be petrol resistant. Many epoxies are supposed to be but in reality are not!