spudulike

The same part is listed for the 372 Xtorq - this has the same bottom end as the 372XP so you should be OK - 510 11 57-01 is the boy:thumbup: The earlier ones will have a different number and the limited coils will have a more aggressive advance curve!

Yes, they appear to be:lol: It worked for my wife and her bookkeeping service. My brother used the local paper and that worked for him to the point word of mouth took over!

Need a comparison using the same bar, standard machine if possible! Forgot to tell you Matty - your piston ring and circlips arrived for the attention of Miss Fxxxxx I know you wear your hair long but is there something you are not telling me......did that Monty Python Lumberjack song have a lasting effect:001_tt2: Just kidding:lol:

Not a bad call on the main metering diaphragm, the pump one jsut stops the saw running but does let it fire every now and then - almost killed myself in the earlydays on an old Jonnie that had this:blushing:

Oh. And welcome to the forum:thumbup:

Is the choke opening up fully when the choke is taken off? Is the metering arm at the right height? Could be wear in the H screw seat!

That doesn't look too shabby - get the dust off and give it a little tune......or two:sneaky2:

Greensripe or give FR Jones a bell!

Just done yet another MS200, pulls 190psi and feels like it should be good - not bad considering what condition it came in!

I haven't personally done a 550 to date, this 560 I have done has had a life and the top end was hanging on a wire until I worked a little magic. It has had A LOT done to it and if the auto tune handles it then I think others will follow suite. The machining gets done at the weekend and the rebuild a week later - just too busy to get it done earlier. Cost - PM me for a few costs if you are interested.

Yeah Joe, take the lid off yours and look inside, I think you will find the ports have been opened up a tad:sneaky2: I think the Christmas fairy could climb through the exhaust port:thumbup:

Couple of ideas, it is possible the starter cord knot is sticking well proud of the pulley and catching the flywheel or pawls. Make sure the not is always small with no excess sticking out....it can catch and THEN you will know it. Check the flywheel starter pawls are free moving and have a nice bit of spring to them so they return sharply. Make sure the pawls are not bent. Check the pulley is in good shape with no excessive play in the central boss and the central gear has no deformation on its edges where it catches the pawls.

Same idea, all works and helps with fiddly saws with limited access to the plug hole!

I shipped a saw to Sweden with no issues. It has to be drained and boxed well but any country can ship to another in the EU without any customs declarations or paperwork - think I used IPOSTPARCELS or DHL - also sent out to France twice!

I now have the block, handle and an array of parts that may...or may not make a saw - thats life with Matty:sneaky2: It is OK, he is a decent guy and I am only taking the piss.....a little. I will be interested to see if the saw does what it should once done:thumbup:

If you are driving down the A1m/A505 toward London....... Or I believe there are little men in big white vans that deliver stuff.......mostly Polish from experience:lol:

Check the plastic inlet manifold is the right way round, it has an impulse hole in it and must allign with the cylinder and carb properly - it isnt symetrical although it rits both ways round. Other than that, unscrew the H screw and get some carb cleaner down the hole and then try it again. It sounds like high speed fuel starvation. worth checking the fuel line and filter as well as the fuel tank breather.

I am in North Hertfordshire in the Baldock/Letchworth area, sending it in via courier is fine - one thing to make you aware is that if the saw is given to employees then please understand that their welfare and safety are your responsibility and if there is an accident.........you may find yourself with issues if the saw has been modified. Most of the work I do is for guys personal saws and most find picking up a 60cc saw that cuts as fast as a 90cc saw on a similar bar has much less negative effect on the body. The choice is always the owners and I do what is requested and always raise this as a point to consider. Check the saw over - modifying a saw should be done on a healthy saw and isn't a way of enhancing a saw with running issues!

There is a slight lip, I created a slight recess with a large drill for it to sit in but there is still a noticeable lip - not an issue TBH and would warranty this repair to last as long as the saw does! One little tip to avoid cross threading - put your plugs in using a small 2" length of large fuel line pushed on to the end electrode. It allows you to get to all those hard to get to plug holes - the MS200, MS660 and the like and just spins if the plug isn't sited correctly!

Is it "lacklustre" due to it needing a good service or it just isn't that exciting to use? I have a bit of an issue with tuning these saws as the ring end on one of the piston rings runs very close to the exhaust port and this will snag if you widen the port and this is one of the main methods of tuning a saw. It is also a Strato saw so there is little to change on the inlet port width as well! You can always make lots of small changes and end up with significant improvement but without doubt on this saw, the simplest method to get gains would be a muffler mod - that is as long as the saw is running as it should and compression is up to scratch!

Thanks, should last the life of the cylinder easily:thumbup:

Normal turn around is a week, two max! You have to understand this is our mate Matty, I get a cylinder, muffler and piston, he then wants a pop up and sends the bottom end so the job changes from a port and return to a port, lathe work, rebuild and return. Then I receive a new piston ring and circlip and have no confidence all the saw is in that box! We all love Matty and he is a good bloke but his saws always leave a little....sorry, A LOT to be desired. The chain brake handle is off the machine and God alone knows if the parts are all there. I have been fitting this work in around all the other jobs I have coming in hence the time it has been taking and it is a bit of a Shyte or bust job so have no idea where it will end up. Unfortunately I put these sort of jobs in second place to normal servicing on machines that are needed immediately, Burrell (Martin) has been kind enough to spend his time on it as well and it will then take time to find all the parts and reassemble/test! My own 066 has been 1.5 years waiting - still not got the ignition timing spot on to date! 20 degrees adds up to 3HP down on top end!

I have now checked the squish with the base gasket missing and the saw turns over but the piston kisses the squish band so the squish is almost the same as the base gasket thickness - around 0.5mm as standard. This test is prior to cutting the pop up metal and gives a standard squish measurement In short, this means the depth of metal taken from the outer peripherals of the piston must match the amount taken from the base of the cylinder. 0.75mm or 0.030" sounds about right and Burrell will hopefully do this for me next weekend!

Had an MS200 in for porting and a full service. It was a customers eBay purchase and pretty reflective of that sort of deal. The sprocket was shagged, front top AV worn, Clutch springs bad, kill wire damaged etc. I checked the compression and could hear air escaping and a lowly 80psi. I stripped the saw and was more than surprised when I saw the piston was in good shape. I put my thumb over the plug hole and turned it over and it had nice compression so put the plug back in and noticed it was kicked over.....cross threaded:thumbdown:A lot of air was escaping around the plug - so much for the saw having the stated "carb issue" - the carb was in fact a relatively new addition and 100% So....I reamed the hole out - getting it 100% square is imperitive. The hole was tapped (note the spirit level)- I ground the insert down to the correct length - these are copper plated stainless so damn solid. I then inserted it with a bit of locktite 270. This repair will be a damn site more solid that the original and will be almost impossible to cross thread. There is zero chance of this insert ever coming out again as the tap is a special one giving a final interference fit and the locktite compound has a very high heat rating and is for permanent fixtures....one cylinder saved:thumbup: The saw is running again and sounds sweet - most would have written it off but it should give some good service now and be faster than ever....compression 190psi+

That sounds like it is getting enough fuel to idle and rev out but not enough in the cut. I would check compression - expect 150psi + on a gunson gauge and check the fuel system out, it may be a simple carb issue and if compression is good, it almost definitely is!