spudulike

The issue is I will have no time to finish it when I am doing the cooking ironing & housework when she has kicked me out! Not a good idea. Did I tell you about the 066 crankcases I had sprayed up and put in the oven to bake when she came back home unexpectedly and wondered what the hell I was cooking as there was a strange aroma of paint oil and yesterdays meal:blushing: Just about survived that one!

Cheers:thumbup:

Are these prices inclusive of VAT end user prices?? doesn't seem too bad value. Just waiting for the day I get a buggered unit in so I can se if there is any way of stripping/repairing these units!

Started up on the 560XP, sorted the damage the disintegrating stuffer caused and have modified the transfer lowers and channel. From the standard image you can see the bulges where the exhaust bolt is supported and a casting flash nearer the upper transfer. I will clean and extend the uppers and also modify the lower skirt of the cylinder by the transfer where it pushes in to the crankcase but will wait for the bottom end to arrive as I don't have it yet. The support bulges have been reduced, the flashing smoothed and have smoothed and flowed all the angles in the lowers. Flow doesn't like angles as it caused turbulence and this slows flow! Next job is the exhaust port - this has a very flat lower edge so have to be careful it doesn't snag the ring so will be conservative with the port shape, may drop the lower edge and bevel it well!

Like my signature below says................

Blimey, you haven't even got off ground zero, guess it is good to have a dream:001_tt2:

I just hate working on clamshell saws and you have the added complication of having to seal the lower clam to upper clam as well on rebuilding the saw. For the average home owner without a scoobie on saw construction, the job may be a little complicated. You could put plenty of grease around the piston to catch any swarf that may get past the cloth. Perhaps use a piece of rolled up paper the shape of the bore to open when in the bore and direct the swarf out of the exhaust port. You could do the whole job with the saw upside down - perhaps that isn't as silly as it sounds and any swarf could be blown straight out the plug hole! V-tech do a nice pilot nose tap - expensive but does the job very well!

Personally on a saw with this value and construction, I would take the piston down to BTDC, stuff protective cloth over the piston, retap the plug hole, fit the insert/helicoil and then carefully remove the cloth/swarf. Use a compressor to blow it out and then fire it up. The danger is that aluminium will get down the side of the piston but hopefully not too much. I wouldn't normally do it this way but on a £100 saw..... Running lean will not cause this. A plug coming loose and being blown out or being cross threaded is most likely the culprit! Do not use a £6 ebay special to do the job, nothing beats decent quality machining taps and reamers for this job. V-coil make some good kit and would be my choice!

When are we going to see some action rather than talking? If you want a non runner then I have a 266XP that would be worth doing, also an 029, a 61, 154..I think, a 280CD (runner) a Jonnie 630.......................

Barrie - we are what the youth of today call "Old School":thumbup: Wear it as a badge of honour rather than as a quick insult!

I can't remember, all I know was it wasn't quite right but was in the end. Mattys saw will be interesting:thumbup:

The basic principle of the engine is that it must have spark, fuel and compression. Spark, take the plug out, place it in the plug cap, earth on the cylinder AWAY from the plug hole and pull the saw over fast looking at the tip for a spark - subdued lighting is best and make sure you don't touch the plug when pulling it over if it isn't earthed. Keep the spark away from the plug hole - I have seen flames a foot long come out of saws before now. After trying to start the saw, check the spark plug is wet with fuel. Pickup the saw, hold the recoil handle and let the saw drop - the compression should allow it to drop slowly - if you can measure compression - even better, it should be 150+ If still unsure - take the exhaust off and check the piston through the exhaust port and look for severe scoring. These are but the first stages of getting a saw running again!

Yes, how high is it Martin??? About right I think.....now:lol: Hows the back?

Have you tested the fuel line? TBH, I would also do a pressure check on a saw of this age as the seals and inlet/impulse can start to leak! The carb should be cleaned and the lack of high speed revs is most likely a fault in the high speed circuit, tank breather or fuel line issue. everything is fixable:thumbup:

Ibuprofen and lots of it I think, that and the time to do it!

Started on Mattys 560XP, this saw had a crank stuffer break up and small parts of the stainless surround ended up taking out the piston and creating some damage to the strato and upper transfers. He sent it in with a new piston which wouldn't slide up the bore down to the swelling of the material around these ports. Sounds terminal but I stripped the transfer covers off, took the manifold off and then worked lightly with a diamond bur and managed to flatten the damage and followed up with a light hone to flatten the area. The piston now slides in as it should and think we will get away with this. Next job is to work on the forward facing transfers as there are a few angles there that would be better smoothed, flow likes smooth curves, angles cause turbulance:thumbup: There are bulges in the mid transfer port which are extra material for the exhaust bolts - I will smooth this area and reshape the uppers. The exhaust will get widened as will the inlet. I am currently contemplating changing the strato system in to extra crank charge by modifying the intake area but will face this one once I have more info!

I was lucky to catch that split fuel pipe but guess that rev limiter on the carb may have saved it but with the work I have done, it must go - thats the limiter not the saw! Got a local guy with some big beech to cut up so may well try it out on that:thumbup:

Thanks for the clarification, I believe that the OP meant no harm and it was for the best intentions. Not a week goes by without kit getting stolen from guys on here hence the post. Stick around, you may find the site of interest and use:thumbup:

That's a right sod, sorry they got clean away with the ported 357XP, they are a bit special. Hope you get sorted soon. Did you get to keep the 254XP and MS200? I hope so!

Not had it torn down and no need to, seen almost no action and machining marks still on the piston, would say it may be original but don't know the history. It didn't come with the MOD wooden box but have seen them come up now and then. Will see how it goes now the porting is up to scratch and with the new fuel line. The standard timing was pretty conservative, the exhaust duration was pretty low as was the inlet and the blowdown was pretty low at 18 degrees, I raised the exhaust, lowered the inlet and lowered the blowdown and left the base gasket out. The muffler had the baffle drilled but looks standard from the outside - as said before, the carb rev limiter was blanked off so I can get the revs up!

They were the areas that I were thinking of when I said air leak - worth clarification though:thumbup:

Ah...... some were fitted with the very thin two rings, mine is original Mahle and comes with a single full size ring - mine is Army green and came with the MOD plates on it.

Think most of the parts are interchangeable with the 281/288 saws - they are supposed to be damn good saws - will let you know when it is running:thumbup:

Possible air leak that is made worse by moving the saw, perhaps a short on the kill wire or shyte in the carb. Worth checking the fuel line isn't split and the fuel filter is situated correctly.