spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The smoking sounds like it is running rich so check the carb needle valve is sealing off OK. The fuel bubbling sounds like the impulse pressure in the carb is working its way back through the carb in to the fuel line and in to the tank! Why not just fit a new carb kit - get it from Rowena Motors and it won't cost a fortune! Worth checking the tank vent is clear whilst at it - the end is mounted behind a plate behind the clutch.
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I know someone that had a property converted to a canabis farm by his tenant, smashed the place to bits, messed up the wiring and when the police busted them, made it a crime scene so he lost his rent and couldn't repair the damage for weeks!
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Pretty good advice here, Shares are a long game - if you are 20-30 and looking towards early retirement then equity ISAs should be high on the list of investments, tax free and it is possible to double your money over five years but no guarantees. My basic advice is to start as early as possible, keep reinvesting even if the markets are not great (the shares will be cheaper:thumbup:) and you will gain over the years. A balanced mix of funds is good and keep an eye on them - easier than property and can be just as profitable! Compound interest is the game and is all about making gains and reinvesting so the gains add to the original stake and then gain some more!
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Well, the 394XP took a back seat as it has a very work clutch and a big airleak due to a cracked manifold so cracked on with the 560XP. Cleaned and chamfered the machined skirt and opened up the area by the transfers. Put the cylinder on and took the squish measurement, it was lower than it should be so did it again with the gasket in place and Burrell has done a good job, bang on 0.6mm so very happy with that. Thought I had better check Matts assembly of the flywheel and good thing I did, it was pretty loose and the air injection duct bolt was most of the way out - it would have made a nice mess if it had come loose so good job I went in there - also sorted a couple of bent pawls! This machine was a wrecker but all back together now and all seems OK now. The good news is.......IT RUNS.........AND IDLES:thumbup: Bit of a relief, I just need to run it flat out so the autotune beds in and then it will be ready for testing!
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Who needs to justify buying saws, I have a Stihl 009, 346XP, 357XP, 181SE and also a 066 and just cut my own firewood for a small stove! I usually use saws I have in for service to cut my wood so.........who needs justification - reckon the whole lot only cost me £400 but were wrecks when I got them and are now worth substantially more! How about buying an older large saw - I have a 280CD available - 80cc:sneaky2:
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It was probably aimed at people who like downloading an app or pressing a button to make everything in their world be perfect. In this game, someone has to break a machine down, make adjusments and measure improvement. You have to measure degrees and have files small enough to make a small reduction in size and a way of tightening the central nut so the advance stays in place! Some lead and some follow - I have seen many follow what I do but few acually come up with new innovation. There are a few modifications I haven't mentioned that can be done and I do but others seem not to know:sneaky2: Brad has spent much of his time devloping improvements - why pass on all the techniques he has fought to develop! I like the sarcasm:thumbup:
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I did the advance on ignition timing and measured the increase in speed at 7% which isn't that much compared to the muffler mod. The ignition mod is all about removing the flywheel and then either filing the moulded key on the flywheel or the steel key inserted on the crank and checking the advance with a degree wheel. It isn't really a mod for the uninitiated but can be done - Mattys 395XP runs a 5deg advance on it as does my 357XP! The advance can make starting a saw a painful experience if you don't start it with conviction.
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Mmmm, havent checked the squish with the standard gasket yet, next job up is a seized 394XP, yours is next! Cheers Martin for the time, hopefully all will be good but nice job done!
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I have done them with the engine running before-any swarf just gets blown out immediately:thumbup:
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I have a 560XP, do you feel like modifying it for me as it looks like you know what you are doing:sneaky2::001_tt2: Looks like you are having some fun in that wood of yours:thumbup:
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372XPs are generally pretty bullet proof and last a long time, I just hope the front casing didn't get a wallop fracturing the alloy and that it is a manufacturing fault. The felling spikes usually protect the front of the saw from damage.
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It is all in the username:001_rolleyes:
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What happens if you put the L screw on factory settings, do the revs race ? It sounds like a massive air leak to me. Has the saw been pressure checked, has the impulse line been connected?
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Not in my book Barrie, I use google and would enter the closest large town or county area, the type of "equipent" - "Lawnmower" or "garden equipment" and then - "repair", "service" or "maintenance". If that doesn't get any suitable hits, you open up the area or the search terms from "lawnmower" to "ground maintenance"/"landscaping"/"powered equipment" or perhaps the mower manufacture and "agent". I usually avoid the YELL type listings but there again, I am usually searching for parts. Have you thought about eBay/local papers/leaflet drops? Just stick a big sign up on the roadside and block all the other lanes round your way like the time I popped in:lol:
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Book a return visit and make sure they look after you:thumbup: The times I have said to myself.....I can just reach that or....just a little tighter.......it will only take five minutes....yeah, the hospitals are full enough as they are and the food aint great:thumbdown: Do they want the saw serviced:sneaky2:
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Last year I got her one of those rechargeable hand held Dysons, great bit of kit.....she seemed pretty happy with it especially after the pie maker for Christmas! I know......I am one of life's romantics:sneaky2:
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How many mince pies did you have over Christmas:sneaky2: Glad we didn't lose you:thumbdown:
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Sounds like a fuel restriction. I would seriously check the fuel line as if this has gone, you may damage the saw if run. The fuel filter could be blocked but less likely. Other than that - check the carb over - could be sawdust in the carb gauze filter. The tank breather may be blocked so worth a clean!
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I thought the new carb had resolved your issues:confused1: Guess not:thumbdown:
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Not sure if the L jet Eddie speaks of are the 2-3 holes in the base of the carb that let the fuel in to the bore of the carb or the jet in the metering section but how about opening up the small semi circle in the throttle valve so you get a greater blast through of air - it may give a result that then other actions can be done to make it work better. In manufacturing I sometimes made big adjustments to machines to see what result it would have so it could then be reset to the datum and a smaller adjustment then made. In this instance, if making this semi circle larger makes it worse then rotate the valve through 180deg and make it smaller! Sometimes they already have a smaller cut out on the other side!
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Yes, circa 7-10psi
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The metering lever needs to be level with the carb body or 0.3mm below. You had better check the needle valve is sealing 100%. The wear would probably happen on the soft carb body rather than tbe adjustment needle screws.
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Never had that happen:blushing: the missing hairs on my arm were a skin conditon.......until they grew back:lol:
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between the clutch drum and the crankshaft - you need to remove the clutch and clutch drum to get to it!
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Good point, we were thinking it was the non autotune unit
