spudulike

I am in North Hertfordshire in the Baldock/Letchworth area, sending it in via courier is fine - one thing to make you aware is that if the saw is given to employees then please understand that their welfare and safety are your responsibility and if there is an accident.........you may find yourself with issues if the saw has been modified. Most of the work I do is for guys personal saws and most find picking up a 60cc saw that cuts as fast as a 90cc saw on a similar bar has much less negative effect on the body. The choice is always the owners and I do what is requested and always raise this as a point to consider. Check the saw over - modifying a saw should be done on a healthy saw and isn't a way of enhancing a saw with running issues!

There is a slight lip, I created a slight recess with a large drill for it to sit in but there is still a noticeable lip - not an issue TBH and would warranty this repair to last as long as the saw does! One little tip to avoid cross threading - put your plugs in using a small 2" length of large fuel line pushed on to the end electrode. It allows you to get to all those hard to get to plug holes - the MS200, MS660 and the like and just spins if the plug isn't sited correctly!

Is it "lacklustre" due to it needing a good service or it just isn't that exciting to use? I have a bit of an issue with tuning these saws as the ring end on one of the piston rings runs very close to the exhaust port and this will snag if you widen the port and this is one of the main methods of tuning a saw. It is also a Strato saw so there is little to change on the inlet port width as well! You can always make lots of small changes and end up with significant improvement but without doubt on this saw, the simplest method to get gains would be a muffler mod - that is as long as the saw is running as it should and compression is up to scratch!

Thanks, should last the life of the cylinder easily:thumbup:

Normal turn around is a week, two max! You have to understand this is our mate Matty, I get a cylinder, muffler and piston, he then wants a pop up and sends the bottom end so the job changes from a port and return to a port, lathe work, rebuild and return. Then I receive a new piston ring and circlip and have no confidence all the saw is in that box! We all love Matty and he is a good bloke but his saws always leave a little....sorry, A LOT to be desired. The chain brake handle is off the machine and God alone knows if the parts are all there. I have been fitting this work in around all the other jobs I have coming in hence the time it has been taking and it is a bit of a Shyte or bust job so have no idea where it will end up. Unfortunately I put these sort of jobs in second place to normal servicing on machines that are needed immediately, Burrell (Martin) has been kind enough to spend his time on it as well and it will then take time to find all the parts and reassemble/test! My own 066 has been 1.5 years waiting - still not got the ignition timing spot on to date! 20 degrees adds up to 3HP down on top end!

I have now checked the squish with the base gasket missing and the saw turns over but the piston kisses the squish band so the squish is almost the same as the base gasket thickness - around 0.5mm as standard. This test is prior to cutting the pop up metal and gives a standard squish measurement In short, this means the depth of metal taken from the outer peripherals of the piston must match the amount taken from the base of the cylinder. 0.75mm or 0.030" sounds about right and Burrell will hopefully do this for me next weekend!

Had an MS200 in for porting and a full service. It was a customers eBay purchase and pretty reflective of that sort of deal. The sprocket was shagged, front top AV worn, Clutch springs bad, kill wire damaged etc. I checked the compression and could hear air escaping and a lowly 80psi. I stripped the saw and was more than surprised when I saw the piston was in good shape. I put my thumb over the plug hole and turned it over and it had nice compression so put the plug back in and noticed it was kicked over.....cross threaded:thumbdown:A lot of air was escaping around the plug - so much for the saw having the stated "carb issue" - the carb was in fact a relatively new addition and 100% So....I reamed the hole out - getting it 100% square is imperitive. The hole was tapped (note the spirit level)- I ground the insert down to the correct length - these are copper plated stainless so damn solid. I then inserted it with a bit of locktite 270. This repair will be a damn site more solid that the original and will be almost impossible to cross thread. There is zero chance of this insert ever coming out again as the tap is a special one giving a final interference fit and the locktite compound has a very high heat rating and is for permanent fixtures....one cylinder saved:thumbup: The saw is running again and sounds sweet - most would have written it off but it should give some good service now and be faster than ever....compression 190psi+

That sounds like it is getting enough fuel to idle and rev out but not enough in the cut. I would check compression - expect 150psi + on a gunson gauge and check the fuel system out, it may be a simple carb issue and if compression is good, it almost definitely is!

I did wonder what the feck they were - just used the small end to measure the squish......or distinct lack of it with the base gasket missing - just calculating the machining for next weekend!

I hate that sawdust that gathers on the top of your socks and works its way in to stick in your feet.......so does the Mrs:blushing::thumbdown:

Just give a price for the job and no real need to break out a cost for picking up the plants, just add a cost to cover it. If the job is on an hourly rate, add the cost on to the price of the plants - either is fair IMO!

Usually if the hole gets too out of shape to fit a helicoil then fitting a thicker walled insert is a good option. I have used Keysert, Ezlok and time sert - the key sert has a way of locking the insert in by driving in four hardened pins that are part of the insert - verystrong. I put all inserts in with Locktite 270 - once it is in, it aint coming out again:thumbup:

It looks like the top handle is from the later saw and that hole in to top of the fuel tank is where the breather should plug in on older machines. The lack of the breather will explain the fuel but not the lack of power. The lack of power could be anything but typcally I would suspect lack of fuel/carb issues or perhaps lack of compression. The fuel escaping is a safety issue as it could ignite so get it sorted and worth checking the gauze internal filter in the carb is OK. Does the saw idle and rev out to max revs OK?

If the hole is a bit of a mess then to fit a carbide steel insert would be the way forward. The difficulty is always drilling the centre but a bit of easing of the exhaust may do it. Look at Key sert and Time sert as possibilities.

I was dropping it down to 2/3rds speed with no signs of any issues, the sharpener was a 20 special so not too bothered if it blows but it helps a lot to control the cut, I am pretty light on cuts anyway, making sure the motor stays on speed and nt bogging!

Well the voltage control arrived, no instructions so worked out what was what - it was like this one 4000W 220V SCR Voltage Regulator Motor Speed Controller Dimming Thermostat EC | eBay Fitted to my Silverline grinder, does it work.......damn well I say, it now sharpens the chain and keeps the heat down that well that the crud on the cutter doesn't even burn and when you use a red marker on the cutter to check where you start from, when ground, it retains the colour so I can safely say that the grinder running at a slower speed generates negligible heat. No heat means no hardening so a worthwhile mod and for only £5.00:thumbup:

Wondered how long it would be Wes:lol:

Don't know but it would have made him nervous and would be a cracking vid:lol:

You may find the online dealer would supply a new exhaust free of charge if they viewed your images - always worth a try but see your point of view on fixing a fault yourself if relatively easy. Would have been different if that part had clumped up one of the port edges in the cylinder!

As I said, I think this will be a little bit of play between the needle bearing, crank and drum. I always grase on service - just did a Dolmar that had the same and it dissapeared but that was a real old machine!

Should have launched it at him with a trebuchet and put the vid up on Youtube as evidence for Paypal. For those that can't be bothered to work it out, a trebuchet is a french inspired war machine that is like a king sized catapault made of wood that was used to siege castles and the like. In the day, rocks, dead diseased bodies and rotting horses/cattle were all fair game as amunition:thumbup: I quite fancied making one in the back garden - not sure the wife would appreciate it though - explain that to friends round for a BBQ:001_huh:

Yes, the gasket fits between the exhaust and heat shield.

Still do that, if the saw runs fast then check the fuel level:thumbup:

That muffler is a real mess, carefully check the edges of the ports and transfers for metal bruising but hopefully you have got away with it!

Just for me darling, Husqvarna orange I think:thumbup: