spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Strange, the ferrous stuff that thin are bearing cages, small end cage, circlips and muffler/ baffles. Not sure what else it can be...any helicoils on the top end? I did once get a 346 in that had destroyed three top ends and found the big end cage was the offender. The owner had missed it completely.
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Try pulling the seals on the crank bearings first, they may tell a story although the flywheel side may not give you much of a view....not done many 61s...ADW would probably have a bit more experience on these. Looking at the bearing through the open part of of the crank lobes may also help but can't really see the metal being anything else than the main bearing cage. I had similar on MattyFs 560xp many years ago, one of the stuffers had disintegrated causing similar damage. I managed to grind the port damage out, a good friend machined a pop up and took the base of the cylinder down and it worked on for a few years before detonating.
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I have never found the need to pull welch plugs and my advice is not to as they are damn difficult to seal up correctly and permanently. I have had just a very few carbs that have gone bad and have not responded to a clean, carb kit, check valve, reseal of welch plugs or new accelerator pump. The 020t carb was one that would go temperamental with unstable idle and not respond to any normal fixes. It depends what the carb is off and what the issue is as to what action I took. Some have non serviceable accelerator pumps...the 357 springs to mind.
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Straight up the transfer port in to the combustion chamber👎
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Just open up the coil to flywheel gap, the ignition timing will be retarded ( if you can call it that nowadays) and the saw will be easier to start. Don't go too far as the spark will stop.
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Looks like the main bearing cage has failed to me. The big end hasn't overheated and that blackening on the lobes looks to me to be too much oil or overly rich running.
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Let us know how it goes, refurbishing the carb is always a good idea but don't ignore looking at the condition of the piston as it may have slightly seized causing your issues.
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Have you adjusted the carb settings yet, most carbs are set to 1 turn out on the H&L screws but try 1.5 turns and see if that helps. A carb kit may help but it may just be a blocked fuel filter, holed fuel line, blocked gauze strainer or just gunk in the carb. The 114 is an old saw, is the piston OK? Taking off the muffler and viewing the piston through the exhaust port will help. What is the compression like? 150psi + is best. Lots of things can cock up the idle but if the compression and piston looks OK, most issues are fuel system based.
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It is all OEM. You can get a decent bit out of these 350 saws, they are light, have decent AV and can come alive with a bit of work. The comment about 346s screaming but no grunt...been out with mine today and it goes like a train on N20. I don't agree on the 357...OK, mine isn't very standard, is almost impossible to pull over with the decomp being used and it flies but each to his own, personally, most 3 series Husqvarnas are pretty special.
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I have used them for around 12 years and can't fault them....perhaps we both should be on commission 👍
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Is that the fella or the saw🤔
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Care needed but you can helicoil them without stripping the engine but care with where the piston is, grease and stuffing the cylinder is all part of it as is using the compressor airline with the exhaust port only slightly open is all important.
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I have a Stovax Stockton 8 and noticed that the fire wouldn't shut down if you shut all the dampers and put it down to the stove meeting the latest regs. Not being able to gain full control of the stove bugged me so I set about working out where the air was getting in and traced it to the top damper so I made a plate to reduce the air entering the front of the top damper and got the stove working as I wanted it. I can now shut down the stove and subdued the burn as you should be able to do. -
I always punched the thing out with a sharp awl. Line it up on one end and give the awl a tap with a hammer, it should pop out.
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That leaking fuel is either the carb needle valve leaking ( most likely) or a severely worn piston skirt on the inlet side causing blowby.
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£1200....I think I will start up the business again and come out of retirement.
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I thought someone said that couldn't happen....tell that to someone that has seen clutch drums disappear down their drive at great velocity.
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Did you de-stress the crank bearings after screwing the crankcases together? Unlikely to stop the engine running completely but usually missed by many. The rest of it, could be anything and depends on your experience in rebuilding engines and fuel systems.
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Highly unlikely unless it was near full power back in the day and now has some trick delrin parts and a decent higher rated mainspring. What is it...Meteor, Mercury or Airsporter?
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Would that be the YPVS👍
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I usually find dynamite is very effective.
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Saps power, not great!
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The last load of logs I got were in payment for servicing a couple of saws and yes, I did send 20% of the logs to HMRC.....yet to get a response🤔
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I was told that birds like sparrowhawks eat the preys brain first as it is full of natural goodness so instant energy boost for them if a bigger enemy swings by.
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Magnolia getting too large, no I.D. Keep or cut down?
spudulike replied to Little Splodge's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
That magnolia looks like one I had at my previous house. The thing just puts on loads of growth each year and needs thinning out often to keep it at a manageable size. It isn't sniffy at when or how much in my experience.
