spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I did wonder what the feck they were - just used the small end to measure the squish......or distinct lack of it with the base gasket missing - just calculating the machining for next weekend!
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I hate that sawdust that gathers on the top of your socks and works its way in to stick in your feet.......so does the Mrs:blushing::thumbdown:
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Just give a price for the job and no real need to break out a cost for picking up the plants, just add a cost to cover it. If the job is on an hourly rate, add the cost on to the price of the plants - either is fair IMO!
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Usually if the hole gets too out of shape to fit a helicoil then fitting a thicker walled insert is a good option. I have used Keysert, Ezlok and time sert - the key sert has a way of locking the insert in by driving in four hardened pins that are part of the insert - verystrong. I put all inserts in with Locktite 270 - once it is in, it aint coming out again:thumbup:
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It looks like the top handle is from the later saw and that hole in to top of the fuel tank is where the breather should plug in on older machines. The lack of the breather will explain the fuel but not the lack of power. The lack of power could be anything but typcally I would suspect lack of fuel/carb issues or perhaps lack of compression. The fuel escaping is a safety issue as it could ignite so get it sorted and worth checking the gauze internal filter in the carb is OK. Does the saw idle and rev out to max revs OK?
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If the hole is a bit of a mess then to fit a carbide steel insert would be the way forward. The difficulty is always drilling the centre but a bit of easing of the exhaust may do it. Look at Key sert and Time sert as possibilities.
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I was dropping it down to 2/3rds speed with no signs of any issues, the sharpener was a 20 special so not too bothered if it blows but it helps a lot to control the cut, I am pretty light on cuts anyway, making sure the motor stays on speed and nt bogging!
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Well the voltage control arrived, no instructions so worked out what was what - it was like this one 4000W 220V SCR Voltage Regulator Motor Speed Controller Dimming Thermostat EC | eBay Fitted to my Silverline grinder, does it work.......damn well I say, it now sharpens the chain and keeps the heat down that well that the crud on the cutter doesn't even burn and when you use a red marker on the cutter to check where you start from, when ground, it retains the colour so I can safely say that the grinder running at a slower speed generates negligible heat. No heat means no hardening so a worthwhile mod and for only £5.00:thumbup:
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Wondered how long it would be Wes:lol:
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Don't know but it would have made him nervous and would be a cracking vid:lol:
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You may find the online dealer would supply a new exhaust free of charge if they viewed your images - always worth a try but see your point of view on fixing a fault yourself if relatively easy. Would have been different if that part had clumped up one of the port edges in the cylinder!
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As I said, I think this will be a little bit of play between the needle bearing, crank and drum. I always grase on service - just did a Dolmar that had the same and it dissapeared but that was a real old machine!
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Should have launched it at him with a trebuchet and put the vid up on Youtube as evidence for Paypal. For those that can't be bothered to work it out, a trebuchet is a french inspired war machine that is like a king sized catapault made of wood that was used to siege castles and the like. In the day, rocks, dead diseased bodies and rotting horses/cattle were all fair game as amunition:thumbup: I quite fancied making one in the back garden - not sure the wife would appreciate it though - explain that to friends round for a BBQ:001_huh:
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Yes, the gasket fits between the exhaust and heat shield.
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Still do that, if the saw runs fast then check the fuel level:thumbup:
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That muffler is a real mess, carefully check the edges of the ports and transfers for metal bruising but hopefully you have got away with it!
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Just for me darling, Husqvarna orange I think:thumbup:
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I thought you liked a 13" on a 50cc saw Matty, 13-15" would be my choice, just depends on the next saw size you are using. If it was a 660 wearing a 2' bar then 15 - 16"...............and so on!
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Where did you get that one from Andy:sneaky2:
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The service manual is usually the last thing I look at, usually when I come across something I have never seen before like a part that looks like it should come off but simply will not!
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Well, I can honestly say the wife is now fully trained........Guy knocks on the door and hands the wife a leaflet for tree services and says he has seen my small pile of wood and did we want some more. Straight in there "I don't think I want to purchase any:blushing:"....answer....."No No, I just want to get rid of it and save the tipping bill as I have another job"....."Ah - What wood is it?"....."Ash":thumbup: "That will be very nice then and did I tell you my husband services chainsaws, he is well respected on Arbtalk and works with some of the local businesses saws":lol: Even I was impressed, not sure too many wives would know Ash is the king of burning wood and have the cheek to turn the sales pitch around:lol: All good, I was happy, nice pile of wood and just right for seasoning for the burner!
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The issue with Chinese manufactured products is us, the consumer. We always want "Cheap" and because we want "Cheap" we often get "Crap" &......"Cheap". With most manufactured products, there is a price that fits a product that will last and has been designed and manufactured to high specifications. So...a £600 chainsaw should last many years, work well, be safe and have spares availability. When you purchase a sub £100 chainsaw of similar size, why be surprised that the recoil rope snaps, it won't start, the case is made of cheese and it is generally Poo???? Chinese manufacturers can manufacture quality product if dictated to do so by Western companies so Blount Oregon - if they have specified that the bar must meet or exceed Canadian standards of manufacture....all is good but if they want to cut £15 off the purchase price and don't push for the highest levels of quality, we will get soft cheese like bars that fall apart - lets hope it is the former:thumbup:
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Thats a whopper, hope the rebuild goes OK, Martin is a decent fella, if you get stuck, ask for any advice. When you get the crank cases bolted back together and it is a bit tight, wallop the crank ends with a mallet and it will free it up!
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Thats easy Matt, I finished my splitter the day after you smashed up your 372 crank Even better, it works really well:thumbup:
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It is because very few people today have any sort of mechanical aptitude and to them it is just a lever or button or handle, no thought about what is happening under the covers. How many people nowerdays ride the clutch on the car rather than knocking it in to neutral and how many people push the ratchet button in on the handbrake rather than push it in and lift? Same thing, different machine! I guess they are "Knob Jockeys":lol:
