spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Now that would be interesting - Also - thanks to Rob D for the bar and chain, the only 3/8 small Husky mount I had and is one he provided for testing absolutely ages ago - cheers bud, got round to it in the end:thumbup:
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Give that man a banana:001_tt2:
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Yes, i ran it 3/4 down the side of that 5' lump of Pauls beech and even that didn't kill it. Should be OK but it has been through a bit - remember, I did write off the cylinder at one stage so it isn't too bad considering! Let me know how it goes, will send it out tomorrow all being well so with you Tuesday/Wed and no sticking the delivery man in the dinner pot like last time:sneaky2:
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And the 560XP....... [ame] [/ame]
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And I am sure it will....... First vid -
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Oils have progressed since the 1980s, 50:1 on any high quality oil, most others 40:1 unless you like the smell of two stroke and like clouds of white smoke:sneaky2:
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The vids are being uploaded - slowly due to our slow broadband but the times are interesting - The 560 was on 3/8 and my 357 on 0.325 narrow kerf. Cutting 12" unseasoned Ash! 560XP - 5-96 secs 5.20 secs 5.10 secs 357XP 5.30 secs 4.80 secs 4.60 secs Sorry Matty, looks like the 357XP wins but it is a little hot in its tune! Will post the vids up when uploaded!
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Tried my ported 181SE out on a lump of 2' beech wearing a 24" bar and wow, it really goes and pulls like a train, loads of torque. Got a 268XP on the bench for service and porting, very similar if not identical durations to the 181SE, low blowdown figure of 16.5 degs, inlet was 140deg so tht can be opened up and the exhaust at 151deg which must be this low to produce compression and torque. Lots to do here and should be able to make some significant changes to it. The vids of the 560XP are done and need to be uploaded. The compression is low though and believe it's previous destruction has left some slight damage to the bore but on the good side, it runs, has plently of power and didn't explode on use so ready to go back to Matt!
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We have been here before, the saw makes more noise, drinks more fuel and you may get more wear on the components but with all the porting I have done, I have yet to see a problem arising from full porting. A saws bottom end rarely fails, it is more likely seizure will occur and if a saw is set up correctly and used with the correct mix then it is unlikely to seize. The dual port muffler was fitted to the 066 Magnum in the states until it was stopped due to EPA regulations. It produces a little more power through increasing flow and is highly unlikely to give any engine issues if the saw is tached once the muffler is fitted.
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You just need the Jonsered part numbeer and then google that part number and see if it comes up under any Huskt IPLS but do check it is the EXACT part number. Other than that, take the carb type original manufacture and type then look for one of those as previously suggested. I had one of these Jonsereds, lots of compression and revved like mad!
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If you are trying to run it with no base gasket, you can't on this saw. It must have a base gasket to give it correct squish or the outer piston crown turned down to make a pop up if you are tuning it! The rest sounds like a learning curve!
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Mmmm, I think I may then, that or the lumberjack song:sneaky2:
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Ooooohhhhhhhh, tharts not niece:001_rolleyes:
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Those 262s sound really nice, one of my favourites!
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I know EXACTLY how that feels. Do yourself a big favour and get some eye protection if you haven't already - I find myself wearing safety specs most of the time now!
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I hate bad spelling and punctuation.......yes I know but I am old school.....sorry, just old perhaps and it just grates but try not to be too sarcastic when I see it:blushing: Appologies to the fella that mentioned it earlier:001_tt2:
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So what happens if you put the H screw on 2 or three turns out? You most likely have an issue with the high speed part of the carb. Did the diaphragm spacer go between the diaphragm and the carb body - it must be that way round. It is possibly a blocked H speed check valve so take the H speed screw out of the carb and get some solvent and WD40 down it and try again.
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I was going to lay a nice sound track over the vid - I thought "My Favourite Things" by Julie Andrews:sneaky2:
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I was never keen on stoned hones but was on the point of using one and had a MS660 in that someone had used one three years earlier - good compression and a bore in good condition and it sort of swayed my judgement. I tried it out hard an a buggered 026 cylinder and it gave it a decent finish without wearing through the plating at all. I agree that they are not great when you have big transfer windowed piston lowers or open transfers but for most, you just want to break the glaze above the exhaust port so the piston rings will wear in much quicker. I have had very good results using this method and afterwards, the bore is lightly honed as the plating is that hard, the hone just gives it a light abrasion and nothing more. It works for me and has given good reliable long lasting results so something is right! Each man to his own and remember - we are using this tool for 5-10 seconds and not spinning it up on high speed for 5 minutes!
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And how are we going to quantify that Eddie, you have no dyno, I have no dyno, I can compare to my ported 357XP but thats about it as everything else I have has a different engine size and it won't show you if it is faster. The saw has a 3/8 7T on it and I have one B&C that will work with it, not sure if that even compares with what you are running. This saws cylinder had a fair bit of damage and an aftermarket piston that isn't run in yet......it all makes a difference as you know! Not sure what else Matt is running up in Kielder Forest......probably a 6R4 knowing him! So.......how are you going to judge how they compare with each other??? Impatient aren't you:001_rolleyes:
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I was using silicon carbide paper!
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The old MS180s had a strange idle adjuster, it isn't a mechanical stop on the throttle valve but a screw that adjusts the amount of fuel flow against a throttle valve that is held open in a set position. That being said, try adjusting up to 1/2 turn one way and the other and look for the idle to be stable and not spin the chain. Also check nothing is binding the clutch drum to the crank - make sure it spins freely as twine and crap can get around the clutch and cause drag on it against the crank causing stalling. Did the saw struggle to idle with the chainbrake on before the idle went?
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Agreed on that, you may get away with just wet and dry plus a litle oil if the transfer isn't too much - just depends on how much you have. I have had an 880 with around 0.3mm thick aluminium slab adhered to the cylinder wall - the cyinder looked almost perfect when done:thumbup: I did use acid though and for around two hours!
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Sorry, you are wrong as in the early days I did a cylinder and tried to get rid of a score with a little too much rubbing and the piston then showed signs exhaust was blowing by the ring! Any semi deep scores are best left and not smooted off - we are talking scores IN TO the cylinder and NOT raised areas of aluminium transfer! Emery paper is damn abrasive and will even rub away Nikasil plating - you don't need to take much off to cause an issue. Not arguing with you for fun but saying what I have found having done many cylinders fom MS200s up to 395XPs/MS880s!
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Yeah, a chain is always good, a sharp chain makes the cut faster I believe.......technical stuff:sneaky2:
