spudulike
-
Posts
14,813 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
They are the ones at the bottom of the volcano in my world:thumbup:
-
Forgot to mention, the workbench and tools got a good clean up yesterday, the compressor blows crap just about everywhere when cleaning saws so got rid of a few months worth of crud that had been blasted all over the place. Barrie wouldn't be impressed as I still use the volcano method of tool selection but it works for me:001_tongue:
-
Put it like this, they have Queen Anne legs, a Serpentine front, inlaid wood and nice patination! Oh - also cost a fortune secondhand unless very lucky and bear little resemblance to modern saws:sneaky2:
-
I am pretty sure that the saw will also have variable ignition advance and not a built in set curve like standard coils. These saws have two sets of magnets on the flywheel which is different from normal saws - to re-map, you would need to reprogram the electronics with what to do in different scenarios and that is if you knew which programming language these things work on and if the logic was understood- it isn't JUST about maximum revs with these things. I know Wyk had some issues with his MS241bogging down but had great top end power. Easy to adjust with a normal carb but with the autotune...no idea:confused1: We banged around some ideas, not sure if they helped or not.
-
Same way it works out how much fuel/air to give it when the saw picks up, hits wood, boggs down a bit etc. The autotune just takes in what is going on with the saw and makes adjustments to make the most power for the situation the saw is in. The only issue I have is that you have NO control over what the autotune is doing and if the saw does something it shouldn't - idle too low/high/ bogging ..... you have no way of adjusting it. Porting and seeing if the autotune will work and make the porting work perform is a matter of suck it and see which is why I haven't done one to date as it could be an expensive mistake with a customer saw. A muffler mod works and the autotune accommodates it but we shall see what happens to Eddies and Mattys saws one done - a £300 top end wouuld be an expensive mistake if the saw didn't take to the mods but would say it is unlikely!
-
Fixing up non running saws and getting them ready for sale is how I started, half the battle is not to be told what the parts do but to work out what they do and how all the parts fit together and why. Makes sense to buy a low cost scrapper - 346/357 Stihl 024,026 these saws have loads of parts avilable aftermarket and OEM plus many are interchangeable so getting hold of them is always pretty simple. Personally I would stick with a Pro saw as the finished item will be worth the work. I feel like I may have a "new friend" when this project gets on the road:001_rolleyes: It is very satisfying turning knackered scrap back in to a tool for work:thumbup:
-
You can't "remap" the autotune, all you can do is let the autotune do its business and hope that it can cope with the porting within its operating paramaters!
-
Seen this fault on more than one 357XP now, the owner has taken the handle off at some stage and then put the longer bolts in the lower part of the handle. The trouble with this is that they contact the underside of th oil tank slowly boring their way in and also cause some very interesting vibration when the saw is not in the cut. Note the bare metal wear opposite the location bolt - the bolt fitted is the correct length one in the image!
-
Whenever I sell on ebay, each saw gets a video of ot running, no arguments then! I also describe it as it is with any defects noted and pictured! Seems this guy was less than honouralble and there are many out there, I put it in the shed and it was running but now it won't start is a common one, what they fail to mention is it seized big style before going in the shed! I usully factor in enough money for a new piston and more if buying anything on the bay, I don't take too much at face value!
-
Check the wiring loomb where it goes over the top AV just between the cylinder and airfilter housing recoil side. It has the tendency to chafe through the wiring and earth the kill wire. Usually worth disconecting the kill wire off the coil and try this. The good news is that Stihl used this coil on loads of saws so they are VERY plentiful!
-
Get well soon, hope you get up and running fast:thumbup:
-
That cup looks pretty worn to me - see if there is a ridge where the pawls connect with the cup - it loooks significantly worn to me! Check the pawls pop out when the cord is pulled - they can be a bit sticky!
-
If the original is 150mm and you are trying to fit a 120mm one, there is no way it will fit, it will simply not extend that far! If the spring was 150mm +........you could cut it to size!
-
I have got longer springs and cut them down before. As long as the diameter is about right and the wire gauge is similar, it works. This is if the original part is unavailable!
-
I think you are looking for a Husqvarna 365/372 or a Stihl MS460/441 or similar, all will handle 2' timber if that is the diameter you are looknig at. It the diameter is smaller - 1' - 1.5', a Husqvarna 560XP would be a good choice. Some on here will recommend other manufacturers such as Dolmar and Makita but have little experience of them. Get some training and PPE or someone who knows their trade to take you through how to use a chainsaw safely.
-
They send the Paypal Mothership round to vapourise him with its death beam:thumbup:
-
If it is an ebay purchase, make a formal complaint that the goods are not as described and therefore want your money back and state that the owner knew the saw was shot as he agreed to pay for an aftermarket cylinder and piston. Ebay is strong on protecting the buyer! Bugger, just read the post again - guess it was an out of ebay deal?
-
Like I said, that 346XP was perfect, full vac and pressure test, carb tached and.......you sold it for THIS:001_rolleyes:
-
No worries and always a pleasure, good to see the level of experience on this site has improved somewhat due to our input:thumbup:
-
Done a number of 357XP rebuilds recently and each one has had a deformed impulse line connector on the inlet manifold. This damage is caused by it not being located on to the cylinder properly. Personally I usually fit the rubber manifold and then fit the plastic parts afterwards - it normally avoids this sort of damage! All of the machines were leaking air from this issue:thumbdown:
-
No rest for the wicked, been working on a Stihl 020AVT - yup, one of those antique ones:001_rolleyes: Got the saw stripped down, the internals looked like one of those muddy patches on a football field but a good blasting with the compressor and copious amounts of spray sorted it. I am converting it to run on Motomix so new fuel lines and carb kit, the recoil was not recoiling and it is now:thumbup: The flywheel pawl pins are missing big pieces off the top and this would cause catastrophic failure in a short period of time. The pins are not available so will fabricate something that will work - probably thread the holes and use thread locked bolts!
-
Well they got a nice job and well running saw:thumbup:
-
Bogging can be a lean idle screw - try turning the L screw out 1/4 turn and try again. If that doesn't work, it may well be the accelerator pump, takes some skill to replace it as it is a bit tricky. It may be the gauze filter in the carb blocked with wood chip. If you want to post it, I can service it but havent got an MS200 to try it on but have a high percentage success rate on these saws/carbs - as you say, probably better to get a local tech to fix it!
-
Does the saw have a steady idle, rev out, pickup ok, if it does these things then the carb is probably OK. A carb rebuild should include a new carb kit, new accelerator pump and a good clean. A carb that needs a rebuild will either have a poor uneven or non existent idle, bogging, poor pickup or not rev out.
-
The ported 346XP isn't that noisy TBH, just sounds a little more angry than standard
