spudulike

"Crab Kits" whats that, a drop net, length of string and a mackerell head:lol: Yes, Rowena Motors are second to none, the MS200 FULL kit is around £12 inc VAT and delivery, best of all it is original Zama and not a Chinese copy:thumbup: Hugo also did me a big favour when he couldn't supply an acelerator pump kit for a Stihl due to it being OEM only, matched it from my dimensions and a photo to another carb and sent the kit - fitted fine:thumbup:

I think it may scare him:blushing:

OK, 24" chain is 84 drive links, thats 42 cutters and 42 depth gauges/rakers assuming you are not using half or full skip chain. 5 mins gives you 300 seconds so around 7 seconds per cutter and raker set or perhaps 6 seconds to take in to the account rotating the chain to each cutter. I would guess 1 sec per stroke - thats 4 on the cutter and 2 on the raker on a mullered chain??? I am not talking about a chain that needs tickling up but one that has lost its hook, been battered by stone or nail or its cutters are totally uneven!! I would like to see you do one like that in 5 minutes new file or not! A chain that is just losing its edge may be possible but not the sort of sharpening I was suggesting!

Jonsered or Echo is it then Andy:lol:

It is reasonably common for the inexperienced to fit the diaphragm next to the carb body and the spacer gasket between the diaphragm and the cover - this is incorrect and the gasket spacer should be between the diaphragm and the carb body. It is also possible the H&L needle adjusters are incorrect - try 1 & 1/4 on each as a starting point. Other than that, make sure the little gauze filter under the large screw cover is free of woodchip, the fuel filter in the tank is OK and the fuel pipe isn't holed/split and the tank breather is clear. If the fuel cap is loosened a little, does it rev out OK - this indicates a blocked tank breather.

Engines and bearings rust damn quickly if they get wet, as others have said, pull the plug, get rid of the water, get some WD40 down the plug hole, try to get it around the crank bearings. Make sure it is dry and then refule and try to get it started within a day or two and run it up for an hour or so with lots of lube and if possible, keep running it regularly every week or two. You may find it will rust and seize if left over the winter period, probably worth keeping it in the warm for a while after it is running again.

Had a 357XP in, on starting it, revs picked up and then died completely plus it was difficult to start. I also noticed that the clutch drum continued to spin wildly when the engine died which wasn't normal. The carb checked out OK, the clutch drum was a bit wobbly but the oiler pinion was obviously the wrong one as it had a bigger recessed area to accept the clutch - in this case, the drum splines would not mesh at all on the pinion. The owner had fitted a new bearing and suspect a new incorrect 3/8th oiler pinion gear! From my pictures, you can see an inner flange ("a lip" to non engineers:001_rolleyes:) on both pinions, this stops the pinion going in too far and contacting the crank seal. In this case I reckon the original pinion gear had worn this lip away, had slid along the crankshaft and severely worn the seal away - you can see it is polished in the photo below with most of the surface rubber worn away. I got the saw after the new in correct pinion had been fitted! This seal damage would have caused a bad air leak and perfect for the symptoms I had, it had also caused a slight seize (as in the photo) and although it was making 150psi, consulted the owner and decided to fit a new quality meteor piston. I lightly honed the bore to aid the bedding down of the piston, new seal (you can see the pullers I used), new clutch drum, rim and oiler pinion gear. The pressure/vacuum test was perfect and the saw fired up and idles perfectly now. Sometimes the pullers are a bit fiddly but this time they were 100% spot on.

This one is always a marmite/religion type argument - someone told me they could sharpen a 24" chain mullered on a nail in 5 minutes once using files. I would have really liked to see that:001_rolleyes: I use a bench grinder if the chain needs to be trued up due to the cutters being unequal length or being damaged by hitting something it shouldn't. If doing it by file, it takes forever and is the most boring job possible. I use a few techniques with a grinder, if the sparks stop, the disk is glazed and this can be broken with a diamond file. someone earlier said the opposite - I don't get that because our tool makers when I was in manufacturing always did the same, de-glaze if there were no sparks. I also pulse the wheel up and down slowly so it allows the cutter to cool and not glow red:001_rolleyes: This usually works well - I can't get the different disks on mine as it is a cheapy! Files are great for touching up or for fine tuning but on a severely damaged chain needing large amounts taken off, a bench grinder is invaluable!

Thats good, it was a bit of a you know what but got there in the end:thumbup:

1/2 - 2/3rds dealer prices if new, 1/3 - 1/2 dealer prices if good used! Ask the OP what he will pay!

And the fact I sorted his non working one:thumbup: Hope it is still OK?

Mmm, done it once before but it isn't in the rule book:blushing: It is a little off piste:lol: Will need the replacement piston before I start grinding!

What is wrong with the original cylinder? I have salvaged around 90-95% of seized cylinders and then just replaced the piston with a Meteor one. The OEM ones are without doubt the best option if it can be salvaged.

No worries, did two for Stevie Blair and one had a glass fibre caged needle bearing with all the rollers missinng and that much slop it had eaten the end of the oiler arm. The other had a metal bearing that was actually in good condition but the drum was shagged and had ..........eaten the end of the oiler arm:001_rolleyes: The steel caged bearings are tougher IMO!

Thats interesting, on my IPL it only listed the assembly.......there you go Matty or have you buggered the thing taking it out!!!!:lol:

Hope it works out for you and all is good with the saw. It sort of looks clean but does look to have had more than two goes!

So what happened to the original crank? Only one stuffer had failed, can you get hold of another - just checked and know you need to order the whole unit from Husqvarna:thumbdown: You could take out both stuffers and see how it runs!! What are you doing about the cylinder - hope it isn't that one I returned you are using:001_rolleyes:

Try the metal caged needle roller bearing - as mentioned recently on this thread. It should help a fair bit:thumbup:

150psi is fine, it is what I would expect and if it hasn't been used much, would expect it to go up a little with use - perhaps 10-15psi. If you take the muffler off, can you see machining marks on the piston skirt? Does the crown of the piston have much carbon on it? Try taking the plug out and shine a bright LED torch down the hole and take a look at the exhaust side of the cylinder and look for any vertical aluminium transfer or scoring on the area directly above the exhaust port and also look for diagonal honing marks on this area. It is possible that the saw has failed and had a new piston of some sort "thrown in" and sold on. A 395 on a short bar should be unstoppable, these saws are full of torque and just slapping on a twin port muffler isn't the way out. I always make sure the piston and cylider are in fine condition before doing any porting - telling someone their piston is shagged isn't always appreciated but getting saw back that goes like stink and will last five years plus for the extra £30 for a decent Meteor Italian piston is a small price to pay! One other thing to try is to get the saw warm and do the compression check again, if it is under 140psi, I would be getting a little concerned. It may be worth looking at the bolts around the carb and cylinder and see if there are any signs that the saw has been apart! If you want a second opinion............................PM me!

I hope not the plug looks a bit black which is better than white. Give it a good blast and check again. A mid tan colour is about right.

The compression is a bit of an issue, you will only get a reading by drop starting the saw as it is a big engine with lots of compression and generally saws that big are not easy to spin over fast enough to get a good reading unless drop started or using the decomp that stops a correct reading. Having said that, expect 150-170 on a good running engine. The dual port muffler will make a good difference however on an old saw such as your 056, it will have had a pretty free flowing muffler anyway so a muffler mod may not give as big a difference on a more restricted modern machine.

Got to say it was Barrie (Gardenkit) who said it first, I was just agreeing.......robustly:lol: Glad we were right:thumbup:

Now that doesn't surprise me Matty:001_rolleyes:

Personally I would buy a tach and then just tune the MS660s down to 12,500rpm, 1,000rpm under the maximum rpm for the saw and plenty of safety buffer. The mix is one element as is the type of oil, air leaks and also how the machine is set up. If the saw is tached with a new piston, maximum revs will change as it beds down and also the length of the bar will change the flat out speed of the saw. If the saw was tached at say 13,000rpm on a 3' bar, if someone slaps on a 20" one, it will add to the chances of it failing! It isn't JUST about fuel mix!

But a bent con rod will make the engine hard to turn over/tight at different parts of the stroke - in the vid, there is a very solid mechanical knock at two very distinct places when the flywheel is rotated one way and the other. I would bet £100 on this one being one of the flywheel alloy shroud bolts coming out and clouting the higher parts of the backside of the flywheel!