spudulike

The owners seem pretty happy, I think all the drawbacks have been discussed at length in this thread and others. One of the real live reasons for having this work done is the abillity to grab a 60cc saw and have it cut at close to the speed or faster than a 90cc one on a similar bar length. This will stress the body much less and cause less fatigue and cut the risk of accidents. Your comment about CCs kicks in when a 3' bar is strapped on rather than a 18" one - for real big stuff there is no real alternative than big CCs! I did ths work for my own interest and then others showed interest in what I was up to and once a few pros had savoured the work.......it got a bit more popular. I never force guys to have their saws modded, I actually spell out the drawbacks and potential issues and get them to think about these mods in a sensible grown up manner rather than the laddish Whoooaaarrrrrrr sort of way. After that, it is their choice as adults! I personally run a few ported saws and they do give an enhanced pleasurable experience in use but that is my own view that others share. Each man to his own, some love it, others show no interest!

I have done work for guys from Aberdeen to Cornwall, Isle of Man to Isle of Sky and even sent out saws to Sweden and France - strange old world, a courier is around £10:thumbup: I get my pistons from Ebay, Tesgol, Dack Forestry, Danicrop (Greece), Max Moto - they are all decent traders! STIHL MS 200 T - 40 MM "METEOR" PISTON KIT | eBay

Fuel consumption goes up - you get nothing for free Longevity - seen no detrimetal signs to date, some have had three years on my ported saws and they were far from new when I did them. Some have been used hard from what I can tell. No big end or crank bearing failures to date - generally the bottom end is a lot stronger than the piston/cylinder Noise levels are increased - thats the nature of the beast - same as race bikes Emissions - no way of measuring but would think that they increase but won't polute as much as a 737 off to Spain! Vibration - no reason to increase Chain speed - I usually tach to 500rpm lower than SPECIFIED max, sometimes close to max if the engine is still fourstroking heavily. Chainspeed will not be outside of design spec. Chain speed will be significantly higher in the cut though - that is the gain you get. Operators PPE - I build engines - if it was a racing bike, I would not get involved with the type of leathers or helmet the rider uses. All I do is give a saw owner a faster machine and test the chainbrake for correct operation and fit a new chain catcher if missing. The owner should have enough respect/training/common sense to take the correct actions in regards to their own safety. Hope this feeds the fascination:thumbup:

Thats one nice job, very impressed with that:thumbup:

The OEM part is ALWAYS the best if no significant scoring is present. The transfer should be etched away with acid/alkalie, the oxide got rid off with emery paper, the bore lightly honed to break the glaze and a METEOR or OEM piston fitted - the former is pretty much as good as OEM in my opinion. Piston - £25 -30 don't be tempted bu noname white boxes! The transfer I mention is melted aluminium from the piston bonded to the cylinder. I personally pressure check and tach the carb to ensure no issues are present on my rebuilds!

Don't run it, strip it, clean any aluminum transfer off the bore, fit a new piston and you will have a good saw. Run it like it is and you will have poor compression, lack of power when warm and poor starting. If you are sure the saw seized, it is likely it isn't bad and the ring isn't seized in to the piston hence it now running. If you continue to run it, it may damage the bore - I reckon the cylinder will be salvagable as it is!

This weekends project is porting a MS360, I have had the timing wheel on it: - Exhaust duration - 162 deg Inlet duration - 150deg Transfer Duration - 125deg Blowdown - 18.5 deg The blowdown is surprisigly low but have noticed that the transfers are at different heights so need matching. The squish is over 1mm so the base gasket needs dropping out. I will widen and re-shape the inlet and exhaust ports plus drill out the muffler outlet and braze in a much bigger outlet pipe. Inlet duration seems fairly long so won't extend that. Dropping the base gasket will make it a few degrees longer! The exhaust port seems pretty low - as low as an 088 I did a fortnight ago - may raise it a little to make up for the lowering of the squish. It should go a fair bit better once done:thumbup:

Had a Husqvarna 350 in, very dodgy idle and bogging. At first I suspected the carb but a check showed this unlikely so pressure/vac tested it and it was leaking like a sieve, that bad I couldn't get it to hold any sort of pressure. I suspected the seals or the upper clam that forms the platform the cylinnder sits on. These says are unlike the majority of other clam type saws in so much as theupper part of the crankcase isn't part of the cylinder but is a seperate casting. I turned the saw upside down and checked the tightness of the clamp screws and they were loose:thumbdown: Fortunately the piston and cylinder were OK but had to pull the piston off the rod, remove the upper clamp casting, clean, reseal and tourqe down the screws again. Rebuilt the engine, pressure and vacuum checked, all good and it now idles and revs out fine. Nice not to use any spares bar a bit of high temp sealent:thumbup: The saw was a sentimental one - had a few of those where they are not really worth fixing but...................always good to get the job done for a reasonable price!

Group hug:thumbup:

Looks good to me but I have had a few and am a bit squiffy:blushing: Hang on, found the glasses - looks like a turd:sneaky2:

Seen them do 50yds in a fraction of a second and then you get the ones that just sit there spinning like bonkers. Worst one was a Poulan whose clutch exploded across my garden - took me an hour to find all the bits:lol: glad it didn't hit me:thumbdown: Seems the Husky 3 series like coming loose, even with a bar and chain fitted! Better get one of those "Danger of Death" stickers on the workshop door.

To noodle, you cut along the grain with the log laying on its side. You will never get noodles cutting down a log like you have with it standing on its end. As Eddie said, it is like milling!

Well done Barrie, nice one - seasons greetings to you!

Just done 4 tickets, Steve - you know who I am:thumbup: Come on guys, shake those wallets:lol:

Most Stihl screws are T27, some smaller ones are T25 but those are T27!

Chainsaw maintenance isn't for the limp wristed:001_tt2: Put it back on tightly and make sure the bar and chain is on when you fire it up, clutches have the tendancy of spinning off - don't ask how I know:blushing:

Personally, I wouldn't trust it but if it is cheap, it may be worth a punt. By cheap I mean £120 or under!

It's one way of wiping out the competition:sneaky2:

You what Bob, I can't hear what you are saying - the lights did flicker a few minutes ago:lol: Once got a belt of a sufflok Colt, Man that hurt, almost disjointed my arm:thumbdown: Have had a few belts off saws but with the cap connected - fortuately not as painful!

Stick your tongue up the plug cap and spin over the engine, if it throws you across the workshop, all is OK:lol: I just put them on the engine, plug up the cap, earth the plug on the cylinder and pull it over. It should spark. I usually measure the continuity between the plug cap and the kill contact just to make sure the HT lead and spur connection are OK but it doesn't ensure the electronics and the rest of the coil are OK.

From the design of the engine it looks like the coil and flywheel magnets align after TDC so the spark must be timed at around 300 degrees after this point. The aftermarket coil triggers immediately so is sparking on the downward stroke hence the backfire. I have a secondhand 4140 1303A on order and this coil is used and now superceeded by 4140 1308 on models after 2001. My unit conveniently has a big scratch through the date but looks to be 2006. The aftermarket coil has 1308 on it but reckon it isnt as it hasn't got this strange delaged spark that the OEM part must have - fortunately only cost £12 but still annoying!

Yes. older ones have carb issues that can drive you MMmmmmmaaaaaddddddd:sneaky2: See you soon Alec- hope the 066 is better:thumbup:

The MS280 are a bit rare, the rest are extremely popular and that is a good thing for parts supply. The 346XP is a cracking saw, lots of revs, the 357XP is a bit heavier but similar to the 346 but will handle bigger wood. The MS260 shares many parts with the 024/236/MS240......I find them a bit slow compared to the Huskies but they are reliable workhorses and generally robust.

It may stil fit, the Oregon MS200 drum is a little deeper than the standard part and still works fine! I woudn't buy one but worth playing around if the parts are available to you.