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As title, if you do what size Weldmesh, panels , structure (round or otherwise) do you use successfully? Can you get the logs down to 20% during an average uk summer!!!!!? How do you Load the seasoned logs in to your delivery vehicle? Like the idea using of potatoe boxes,and motor parts weldmesh crates but finances dont allow me to stretch to them. Many thanks.

Are any of you members of the Hetas , "Woodsure Ready to Burn Scheme" ,or were you a member but found it difficult to comply with the schemes requirements. Please send me a message rather than posting on here if you have had some issues with the scheme. Many thanks I ask as considering applying to be a member of the scheme, but in all honesty think some of my fire wood will not meet the schemes criteria if they come and have a "spot check" out of the blue!!!!!

I keep trying but obviously not quite got the knack of using it correctly. Think I need a few tips but I dont blame anybody for not giving away trade secrets acquired over a decade.!!!😉

I would be very interested to know how one air dries wood down to 20% bearing in mind our summers are not usually that hot!! Do you semi season it while stacked in long lengths eg 2.3 /2.4 /2.5mtrs ,and then process it into logs during the summer months and store it in a shed or crates? For the last 2 summers I have split the above lenghts with my newly acquired cone splitter during April/May ,but even some nice Ash that was split and seasoned in the hot summer of 2018 , is still reading around 25% (Extech moisture meter set at A) !!!! I find it hard to believe that any one can guarantee that every "air dried" log they sell will be 20% or lower, especially with the humidity of the air being so high during Autumn and Winter.

Do you use it successfully on a full chisel chain?

What are your thoughts on the Stihl 2in1 chain sharpener . Can they be used on FULL chisel and SEMI Chisel chains. Any info much appreciated. If the sharpener has already been discussed please direct me to the topic/thread to avoid repetition.Thank you.

TMany thanks for all your helpful replies. I will take helmet back to local dealer who I bought from and try and get it replaced. One good reason I buy chainsaws etc locally is one can just get in the truck and take it back immediately no messing about unlike buying on line,but everyone to their own in business. Thanks again PS Ear defender swivel sockets look to be the same type on all the Husvarna Helmets, and very similar on Stihl helmets,perhaps they are all made by the same company but branded accordingly.🙀

Due to running over my old Forestry Safety helmet I need to replace it. I bought a Husvarna "Classic" helmet last week but one of the ear protector swivels has already broke seems a very flimsy idea to me for forestry work, where kit gets some stick. Which safety helmet can any of you professional full time foresters recommend. Also out of interest what boots do you wear, do they last long however much one pays for them?Quality of work clothing,footwear seems poor these days relative to how much it costs. Durabilty and comfort more important to me than price to me, and I have no preference for any brand name. I didn't know where to put this thread so have put it here.

A fantastic reply,many many thanks. Great to find someone on the same wave length👍👍👍 May you have a non back breaking 2019.🙏😃

Many thanks for putting me correct as to what I really require. Can you recommend some one who may make one to use with an old Japa2100 processor,thank you.👍👍

Are the above help or hindrance?? I ask, as in the real world ,cordwood is never all straight as die as used at demos’s , and in sales promotion videos!!! I do not do a great amount of firewood with my old Japa 2100 processor, but am wishing to make life as easy as possible as 68yrs young and I am a one man operation.Just wondering if a mechanical ( hydraulic motor/s driving feed chains ) may be a great help. Cost may make it prohibitive.

I have a "Black S2 630" cone splitter which I use on a hired in 5ton 360 . I split 2.3mtr long cordwood with it up to about 2ft diameter .You can stack the split wood by just screwing the cone in a short distance ,takes a bit of getting used to but once you get the hang of it you will be ok. I like the cone splitter as it is a one man operation. Ok lengths of wood may a bit more splintery but all looks ok when been through processor. I have broken down Beech butts up to 3 to 4 ft diameter.(4ft long ) Great piece of kit and has made other 2 splitters almost redundant . BEWARE when buying a cone splitter, they may look the same BUT the angle of the thread that screw into the wood are NOT, I know "Lasco" and "Black" are very good.

I would tend to agree with you ,but I find that once the wood has gone through the processor it looks ok and the advantages of the cone splitter, outweigh the wood looking a bit messy /splintered/frayed. I admit I do get a bit more wastage if some cordwood is particularly splintered. But we are all individuals and so what may be acceptable to one is not acceptable to another.

Have you considered a cone splitter ? I have a "Black cone splitter which I use to split lengths of cordwood up to 3MTRS long up to 900mm diameter. It is a one man job, and you can stack the wood with the cone .To be honest it has really made my Uniforest23 and Binderberger 40 tonne redundant !!!! If you Google "EXAC One uk you can see the "Black Cone splitter" on their website