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As above does your cordwood (2.5 mtr length +) supplier , bill you per load to you, by the "tonnage or the cu mtr " ,( cu mtr formula allowing so much for air/ so much for actual wood per load) . I ask the question as the last two loads I have had delivered are by the , tonnage, rather than the old formula of so many cu mtrs minus x amount of air per artic load of cordwood for eventual processing.

I did not look at log nibblers (????). I did look at a few other makes,but after talking to some owners , I decided to go for the "Black", distributor not far away from me. From I was told it is the screw thread pitch which is the critical bit. I think 7,5t machine would be safer than 3.5 machine especially IF swinging 3mtr long 450mm dia material around. Cone splitter has almost made my vertical splitter redundant.For any more info PM me .

Cone splitter :- " Black Splitter S2 630 " list price was £4,350 but you can negotiate a discounted price. Supplied by Exac-One Ltd Upton on Severn. Cone splitter was not the cheapest but be warned that the "screw thread angle is critical for good splitting"and not the same on all splitters. I use the cone spliter on a 5 or 6 ton 360 which I hire. The cone splitter has revolutionised the splitting process by being able to split the 2.5 /3mtr lengths of cord wood,and restack it. All I have to do now is to cut the seasoned long lengths in to two and lift them on the processor intake belt and away you go. I have to say I bought the cone splitter with money from other income and not money made from firewood, but at 67 I like to make life as easy possible,wise guys will say if that is the case why bother doing firewood, and I will say that is my business. Hope the above helps.

Many thanks for your replies . I have to say that I cant recommend our"Black Cone Splitter" highly enough and that if we have our seasons cordwood delivered and split in March we can not do any more to achieve our aims, per thread title.

Many thanks for your honesty ,a rare trait these days !!!

Do any of you ,during an average u,k summer , manage to naturally dry winter cut cordwood (beech ,ash,etc excluding oak) , 2.5 to 3mtrs long down to around 20%moisture (WITH OUT CUTTING IT IN TO SHORTER LENGTHS) between say March and the beginning of November (8months). If you do please can you tell me how you manage to do it,if you are coping initially with cord wood up to max 450 mm diameter. What equipment are you using to split the 2.5 to 3mtr long cordwood down to allow it to dry out. I ask the above as burning 20% moisture logs and below is ok

I see that Thurlow Estate no longer supply firewood,any idea when and why the gave up the firewood business ?? I live in Gloucestershire,but I was looking at Thurlow Estate farming website and then looked at the firewood section,only to see they no longer did firewood!!!

Many thanks for your replies,I might be wrong but I was thinking that forest under foot conditions will be much harder on boots ,than Arborists would encounter if they are mainly working in suburban conditions, with a lot of concrete and tarmac under foot once they climb down from the trees.

I did not really know where to put this thread so please excuse me if it is in the wrong place,I do firewood. I need to buy some really hardwearing boots for working on steep wet banks doing forestry work that I have just taken on. I am sure it has been asked many times before but please can any of you that are making your living doing forestry work recomend an excellent make of boot to go for that will "LAST "in the harsh environment of the forest. I do not mind paying for "quality",BUT I hate being ripped off by paying for brand name rather than quality i.e I do not want to buy Husvarna /Stihl branded boots when they are made buy another company. Many thanks.

Unfortunately not an option,due to being high up a densely wooded steep hillside.

I have tied a long rope to a tree at the top of the steep bank and found that a great improvement. Is there a device that I could thread the rope through ,which I could lock the the rope so that it supports me while using two hands to use the chain saw on the extemely steep bank,while cutting the nearly 3ft diameter trunk in to winchable lengths. I can not take any risks as unfortunately I work on my own. I carry a mobile with me at all times,and I also have distress beacon with me,which if triggered sends out a distress call to the emergency services with ones position.

I am in the process of sawing up a large windblown Beech(for firewood) on a very steep bank, that is so steep I can't stand up. Any suggestions what footwear to use.Would climbing spikes be any help?

Thanks for your replies,I think the main problem is that the tyre size on the Isuzu is wider than on the old Nissan. I found with tractors in the past that narrower tyres will grip better on slippery surfaces than wider tyres. The Quadtrac I drove for a bit would even spin on greasy grass bank!!!!

Fair comment,especially when we have had a very long dry spell and then a lot of rain on a very dry surface, which becomes slippery (no grip) compared to a muddy surface (some grip).

If you are forestry contractor , which type/make of tyres do you use on your pickup truck ,especially for steep muddy/greasy woodland track surfaces. The "Nexen Rodian AT 2" tyres on my Isuzu pickup seem to slide rather than grip on greasy mud surfaces, very dangerous .