Wonky
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Everything posted by Wonky
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your saw in the pic is a 211c, the bar is designed for another saw, that’s why the drive link count is wrong. Even thou it fits a 211, it was said before the end is open on a stihl bar designed for the 170 and 211 series saws the quick google I came up with, it’s a florabest electric chainsaw bar and chain combo and on another note the bar is a bit knackered where the chain enters the bar. I can’t be sure why it happens, but I think it was due to using a worn chain sprocket..also you would get better cutting from a chain that had a little more hook on the teeth.. So maybe a bit of reading on sharpening will help you as well. edit , I,m wondering if your chain sprocket bearing is fooked, that maybe another reason for the bar wear at the end ??
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Good morning, On the bar, there should be a few numbers and letters stamped into it. (Near the chainsaw fit ment slot) I don’t know where you got the chain and bar from, but it seems to me it’s not ment for the stihl. Even though the bar fits it maybe for a husky and the oil hole may not line up. The husky chains are least/usually a different DL count. And can be different gauge. And like @Stubby said the fitment holes are/can be slightly different place i,m wondering if you got a bit of a mismatch, that’s why we asked for pic's. It can help you get a answer quicker. its better to be sure it will work or know why it don’t seem to work. As a few peeps get some things wrong. Eg .325 bar and 3/8 (and 3/8 is different to 3/8 lopro or pico) chain and also sometimes the sprocket on the saw has been changed. theres a few reasons. We’re only here to try and help ??
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In what way does it not fit. Do you have a number stamped marked on the bar.. the stihl bars are the same 3005 mount. For both saws. as dan said pic’s help.. also chain I’d as well as number of drive links may help..
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Now that’s got me skerries up, seeing that ?. I'd prefer a larks foot and the hose keeping it in place, it would tighten up when a load is on. Where as when a load is placed on it’s only the hose keeping it in place if it works for you and your happy. Carry on...
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I'm guessing the ring on the sling is held with a larks head or foot type connection. So the hose keeps it tight ? I think it’s a good cheap sling-xring thing. ?
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@outinthewood Who did you send it to ? hotsaws101 or someone else. asking for a friend ?
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???? have you looked in the ipl , and if it’s not designed for the uk, it’s not for the uk.. I’ve heard about full wrap handles not being available in Canada/ USA even though they are joined and people have to ship them over the boarder Yes,,, porting or any other mod is very naughty it stihl"s eyes.... if you take it. In a shop they find it modded, they either won’t work on it or they fit std parts back on and charge you. carry on upsetting the stihl shops, it’s fun to read ??
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I think you will find the op is referring to one of these. I could be wrong, but....
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I will state the obvious 20yrs ago things were cheaper. And time goes by things cost more..??
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I was / did make a longer reply but shortn'd it to.... I was really saying, once you get a taste for milling a 50cc is not big enough. Happy milling ? it’s adickitive
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Sorry but you need to Get a bigger saw, your 261 has not got the cc. Unless your going to mill 10”/12” logs
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Is it.?...I'll leave this here, ?. ?? only joking, I think trying a new chain would take one variable out, having 2 doggs another. Or flip the bar over to see if anything changes
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Did the last t-laps load ? It just shows 0.00 total btw. Those other two were great ?
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I would fit the outer dog to the original cover to see if the roller catcher lines up. If it does. It tells you the holes In your other cover are wrong. either way be very careful as to which holes you enlarge/realine but I’m sure you can sort it ???
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I weren’t far out then ?
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I dunno if it would be a good/bad idea to pull the muffler and peek at the piston.. it would simply solve a mystery of oil or no oil.. or an air leak.. thus wrong fuel/air mix and lean Seizure ..
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The depth gauges, have to be lower than the std depth setting,, but not to low so it grabs and Boggs. what was it rough?..30thou ? my 660 I had to hold it back when the teeth were sharp ? edit,,you want something like bran coming out
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Where to cut this oak to minimise stress on what remains
Wonky replied to SbTVF's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
What happened to just chopping it down in the right place ? edit ...and do dot dot... ? -
Where to cut this oak to minimise stress on what remains
Wonky replied to SbTVF's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Sorry about what I said, it was just,…………my thinking? your right always good for lots of different options/opinions. mine would be,, not that I can see all the tree., only cut what you have to now so you fence don’t ruined in the meantime , and try to cut up as high as you can leave to be able to safely finish off in the winter. in the winter, tie the rest of the stem that’s leaning over the fence to the other tree that you are keeping and cut it so you can swing/pull it away from the fence and lower it. Then tidy up near the base it would be easy if you have the equipment ie a few ropes and get a high-ish purchase in the tree your using to lower it / swing it.. from but having said this I would probably change my mind if I was looking at it ?? -
Where to cut this oak to minimise stress on what remains
Wonky replied to SbTVF's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Sorry but op says they are able,,and asks where..? Only pics of base and size something is missing here I can see it ending in tears.?. ?. -
I was thinking the same £20 for me to take it away, pay for my time and a bit towards fuel. ?
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It could well be, the homeowner saved £120 by the TS guy not taking them away.. and thought someone will want it, and they could make some cash to help pay for the tree job.. however after some time of it still sitting there and the price slowly being lowered, eventually someone will take them even if it is for free.????
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They will all do it, some being more difficult than others ie jigsaw. And some will be smoother finish. I would personally go for the skil saw ( Circular saw) I’ve cut those 200lt blue drums in half with an angle grinder and a diamond stone cutting disk it left a nice smooth finish and lots of staticky charged bits a mask would be worth wearing unless the wind is in your favour, and it was slow. the stone/ metal grinder disk just clogged up. but if your really pushed you could just as easy do it with a good hand saw let us know how you do it and your experience ??
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Wha.....t no pics yet ? ???
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Pics of saw wearing new armour, or it never happend ?
