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About Bustergasket

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  1. Here is a quick video of the transaw cutting blanks, they are short just under 6 inch i think, always surprises me how dead parallel the two ends are, you notice this when stacking on a pallet and get the height but still have stability, you cannot see the log clamp arm but it clamps the log back so the cut is square, have seen others that clamp the top, enjoy and keep on chopping http://
  2. This is the Rescue, we made it through the first year, he is a real grumpy boy who wants minimal interaction with humans, he has been mistreated so very wary, i just leave him alone and every now and then he will come and give me the odd nip or light mauling, he thinks it highly amusing if he gets a reaction
  3. Valid point, i guess i have a requirement to sharpen my own and as a spin off i could do others, i guess really i should buy what i think i need and if it picks up others then it’s a bonus, i mainly use .404 and 3/8, use about 100 ft of each per year, currently just spin them up use them for about 1500-2000 cuts then hang them on a nail in the barn, sometimes that’s only a days use, very conscious that iam getting a bit of extra time and so should look at sharpeners question is what to go for ? if iam talking about 50 chains of my own a year can i justify an automatic machine and would you want one given a choice ?
  4. Looking at kit to grind chains, would need to cover the full range upto .404, a full auto is circa 3k which is difficult to justify, seen the logosol which looks good, but don’t know what they are really like, also seen the stihl usg looks good but manual operation, thinking there could be a market for sharpening chains for others, but appreciate it could be limited, what’s everybody tend to use, any input appreciated, cheers, and keep on chopping [emoji106]
  5. Well had another load in today and so asked and was told straight away elm, it’s not made easier trying to id just from pictures but i really appreciate the input, Mick Dempsey was spot on [emoji471]🥇
  6. It looks like a heavyweight hardwood, tight grained, i think Mick could be right, the bark looks like some pictures i have seen of elm, if it is elm then i won’t be feeding it through the processor, i need some new doors in the old house [emoji23]
  7. Here’s some more pics and also what i think the leaf maybe, i say that as ian not sure 100 percent that the leaf was associated with the stem but it was in very close proximity
  8. It was bought in with one of the loads of timber, it has a grain similar to a cherry or other fruit, but the bark is different [emoji848] there is a bit of mould similar to the way Alder goes ?
  9. I have this in the stack, any input as regards species greatly appreciated
  10. That’s the Badger, don’t mind if it needs a bit of work, failing that i may have to look at making one, they did one which had an automatic mini hammer to close up the rails prior to regrinding the channel, been wanting one for years, just don’t see them, more popular in the states where timber size dictates large and more expensive bars [emoji106]
  11. I have been looking for a while, if anyone knows of one for sale i would be interested, based in the u.k. but would ship from overseas, long shot but figured worth a try- cheers
  12. Would agree looks like alder, tends to be straight and tall, my experience is it can be prone to going mouldy quick, but burns well and dries fast, assuming it is Alder [emoji106]
  13. I know someone who wrecked a stenner 52 sawmill cutting rings, he nearly killed him self in the process, i saw the ring that was retrieved from a nearby field and it looked like the blade had cut in about 1/3 then the ring rotated, essentially giving more to the blade it the spun and was ejected, mate said it went 30 ft in the air, appreciate new bandsaw blades are not as coarse on the blade, but i would guess it important to get them well anchored down, i have used a large BGU 3 phase 12 inch diameter cut 9kw tilting saw to do what you are proposing and the drop into splitta, it’s possible you could use woodcutta but you would have to set each ring, i would suspect that if you had a woodcutta you would just buy in the timber, it’s very fast, automatic and i would suspect the labour saving and higher output would make the numbers stack up, provided you have a requirement for large volumes, the splitta will take anything that fits, this is what i was feeding through yesterday if you had a 2 ft length then woodcutta will deal with easy it would just be the single rings that needed a few inch off would take a bit of time, i sell the a grade woodcutta cut from cord at the normal price, if someone is more sensitive to price offer them the more varied arb stuff, just fed through the splitta, arb stuff is hard, cord is much easier, spent most of yesterday collecting an oak stem which has about 7 cube, reality is if i stayed and processed cord i would have done 30 cube [emoji106]
  14. Iam looking to buy a Splitta 400 hydraulic, if anyone knows of any or has one then pm me, iam based midlands, many thanks


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