Craig.
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Everything posted by Craig.
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An other option on the forwarder F40 | Falcon Forwarder product detail A bit heavier than the others to move at just under 4 ton though.
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As others have said that looks a top job trailer, must of been gutted to find that gone. You could try posting the same type thread on the unimog club uk forum, I think they are on facebook as well if your on there.
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Don't know if there is an off the shelf one available , but if you have a truck tarpaulin maker close by, they should be able to make a fitted sheet for you.
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Tipper trailer charging and work lights on trailers
Craig. replied to william127's topic in Arb-Trucks
You could use a 12s socket/plug like on a caravan, that could give you power for charging or power sockets, and use the spare fridge control pins/ wires for work lamps or beacons. A simple way for beacons is use some low power consumption lamps wired into side lights with a switch, or a din pole mount, just means you would have to get out to turn them on, or mount the beacon. Caravan 12S Wiring Diagram Or change for 13 pin sockets, which would have a 12v pin could be used for charging / power supply, and fridge control pins which could be used. 13 Pin & the UK | Right Connections You would need to have the charging ideally done through a split charge system, also fused, so if the battery when flat, your not trying to power the tipper through a small wire. -
The best way to check the health of your battery is a drop check or high discharge test, most mechanics or garages should have the tester, a hydrometer to check the state of charge in each cell. The drop test will show any weak cells, while the battery still shows a usable voltage.
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When you put the screw back in to extract the taper once you get a bit of tension on it, some times you need to give a light tap to the outer part of the pulley, be careful not to hit the extreme outer edge where the belts go, as that can easily crack and bits break off.
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Is it like this type? [ame] [/ame]
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Are the grub screws allen bolt type? and are there other holes with no screws in? It sounds like the pulley is a taper lock type, remove the screws and then screw back into one of the other holes and this should loosen the inner and outer of the pulley and then slide it off the shaft.
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In your opening post on this thread you said you wanted a short wheel base, The `50 in the model number indicates a long wheel base. You might of changed you needs since then, but I though I would just say in case you when looking for some thing you don't want.
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My old fransgard doesn't have a butt plate, just a leg on each side so I can go back to the pick up hitch on the tractor, running the cable under the winch and in between the legs.
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We where on a job last year, there was a Iveco van with cherry picker on, that came up with similar symptoms you've said, cranking over but not firing and a warning light on. The lads with the van had this problem before, and just took the keys out and walked away far enough for the chip in the key not to be read by the van left it for a couple of minutes, came back and it started OK. I know it wont help you fix it, but might get it running again?
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Did the older land rovers have a slight recess in the bonnet the shape of the wheel to keep its height down, to help visibility. Would the wheel be quite high up on a td5, do they have a bit of a bulge in the bonnet?
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Yes all low sulphur now, just some may contain bio fuel, as dyed road fuel, and some may not.
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The original article I read said about local demand to the refinery's for red diesel dictated whether they made red or just added the dye to road fuel. I read it as both types of red are low sulphur, but the dyed road fuel will have some bio fuel content, where as the other red has no legal requirement to include bio fuel content. I must admit I`ve not asked my supplier what grade they supply, the article says dyed road fuel makes about 25% of total red fuel produced. Agree with you about the lubrication of the low sulphur fuel, and I add a small amount of mineral 2 stroke oil, while refuelling, and had positive results of doing so. Got a mf135 which did not tick over smoothly until I started adding lube, with the lobe tick over is smooth, if I have forgot to add some, the poor tick over will eventually reappear.
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I read about the two grades of red diesel in classic tractor magazine, I think. A quick search I found this http://www.smmt.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/Changes-Spec-NR-Gas-Oil-261110.pdf seems to say similar things to the magazine article about 2 types of red diesel.
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I remember reading about two grades of red diesel, depending on the demand at the time, in high demand the refinery would make `red` diesel, a slightly lower grade of fuel allowed under some british/un/eu standard, and in low demand time, road white diesel, just has red dye added (plus anything else needed to make `red`?).
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I`ve not heard that one my self, but I know you can not get alloy ad-blue tanks due to corrosion, sorry for the derail! Taking shape Ian, does the exhaust your swopping from one side of cab to the other have a larger bore pipe on the bottom of the stack than the pipe going into it by a fair bit, in the original unimog style? if its a normal fit it makes a lot of difference, in terms of noise and vibration in the cab (for the worse).
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I was told that Ifor Williams in Corwen/Deeside couldn't under cut their dealers, so only sell at the rrp or a set% off, where as a local dealer could sell at a loss if they wanted, Don't know how true that is, but I know people who go to Staffordshire to buy their trailers when Corwen only being a couple of villages away, is the most local to them, as they get a lot better deal.
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There was some one in the employment section before Christmas asking for pts climbers Liverpool/ Chester area. Don't know how to link threads but if you put chester in the search it will come up within the first half page.
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Sounds like a blockage some where, try easy stuff first, remove exhaust and try to see if it improves, and try removing bottom of air filter bowl or air pipe to manifold to see for improvement,
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Can`t comment on the stihl front, but you wont go far wrong with a 346 husquarna
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The first thing that jumps out to me about that machine is, it looks like the boom has been repaired. I'd be looking at the quality of the repair very carefully, and more importantly what caused it in the first place.
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My 372 was originally supplied on a 15" bar and chain set up, from memory it was a option from the catalogue in the choice of 3 bar sizes recommended for it.
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Driver CPC, I would guess they meant.
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Engine 1800rpm to give 540rpm on shaft, engine 3.33 turns to 1 turn of shaft, (1800 divide by 540) 350 x 3.33 = 1165.5 1165.5 rpm = smidge under 1200rpm:thumbup:
