Craig.

If just out of the exemption radius, driving time still shouldn't be a problem, but the duty time could be a problem, as well as weekly rest periods, you`ll need a full 45hr rest every other week, most people would have the rest over a weekend, so could only work every other Saturday, and taking a reduced rest period, or a late start Monday.

I`ve not seen any posts off him for a while, just assumed he`s been busy, hope he's OK.

No sign of the book yet Steve.

Only if it is a new vehicle, used would OK.

As others have said you could apply for a lower speed limit, with a (temporary) traffic regulation order, from the local highways streetworks department, it takes a longer time than booking your road space to work, as it needs advertising in papers, and local notices. There is nothing stopping you using, slow signs, or rectangle yellow backed signs with black speed symbols, not legally enforceable, just advisable.

I`ve not got the prices to hand, but the other week I had prices on both an Ifor Williams and nugent tipper, like for like spec and the Ifor was cheaper.

I used to use nokka falcon? crane 3 point link mounted, that had a float type detent position on the joy sticks, on both the slew and main boom, so you could leave the crane positioned over the trailer when moving, just didn't clamp the grab tight. I`ve often thought of a dumper based forwarder, but in my mind it involved lengthening the chassis and prop on the bunk half, and a roof mount type set up on the other half, with reversible driving position.

I`ve got one, used it with success a few times, also failed as well, usually ended up using heat to soften the old grease, to get the new in. I got it from a company called or something similar to northern tools, whether they are part of the company you listed I don't know, but it was in this country, they used to send a catalogue through post, I don't think they are trading any more. Think it was about £13 when I got it.

Off topic, but a hgv class 3 gave a cat C, a hgv 2 gave a C+E with code 102 (I think) drawbar trailer only, hgv 1 gave a C+E

The pto is an independent unit. It is also braked which can be a pain when coupling a shaft up, unless you can turn the implement, also don't just through the lever forward to stop unless the is an overrun clutch on the machine as it will stop the shaft dead, feather it forward as the machine has run down to bring it to a stop.

I`ve had 2 over about the last 20 years, first a 862, 90hp, then a 572 70hp with loader, and a friend of mine has had 3 and still has one on a land drive forwarding trailer. Parts wise Browns of Liversedge, the importers I believe will supply mail order next day. They are a very basic tractor, with most things worked by rods and leavers. Starting wise, they start on 24volt, but when running revert to 12volt, lights blower motor etc, I had no problem with them starting winter or summer as long as both batteries are ok, if one battery is poor, the relay that swops the battery connections from series to parallel wont operate correctly. Brakes, they are a dry disk set up, just about adequate for the tractor and small load/trailer if adjusted correctly, with a large trailer they will need a lot of leg pressure, trailer brakes are air, make a huge difference. Air brakes was ok for me, as my trailers are air braked for unimog. some dealers retrofitted hydraulic brakes I believe. Cant say I ever had a problem with the keyway scraggs said about on the rear stub axle, although it made it easy to alter the track width. The earlier one I had a 1986 I think it was, had a direct link from the steering wheel to box, the later one a 1996, had a more conventional hydraulic orbital valve under the dash and was better on the road the older 90hp. Biggest problem I had was a head gasket, Browns supplied a new gasket with a modification. Servicing was easy as all filters bar fuel filter are washable and reusable, fuel filter has a larger pre filter blowl with cleanable screen in so main filters last well, and most other repairs are simple as most items are external. Some of the operational functions are a bit quirky, gears non synchromesh, doesn't lead well for multiple drivers jumping on. Good on fuel. If you want to know more give me a shout on pm The front axle problem on the one your considering, are you/your friend sure its in the diff? I have heard of one with the bevel gears going to the portal axle part, failing. The is a overload dog clutch in the propshaft, that could of gone or slipping and making a noise.

I think you can only get reverse drive in the larger mb tracs, if you look at the side of the cab they have 3 pains of glass, over the 2 of the smaller ones.

That would be 1 function. The remote in Bob`s link is a 4 function, main boom up/down, 2nd boom up/down, slew left/right, and extender in/out. You can get more functions for rotators and grabs etc, but more £££`s

Edit, Sorry is was not a council depot, but West Yorkshire trading standards, or West Yorkshire Joint Services Nepshaw Ln S, Gildersome, Morley LS27 7JQ

Don`t know if your sorted yet, and whether its too far for you, a council depot at morley had a free to use axle weigher out side. It was a few years ago when I used it so a few phone calls may be in order.

I seem to remember `difflock` (think that's his user name, has a david brown and crane trailer as his avatar), had looked into them, and posted about them. Might be worth a pm if he doesn't see you post.

I`ve used US Automotive in the past for dodge ram parts, and they where quite helpful.

Around here (north wales) some trees, but mostly ash, have lost most of the leaves already.

Surprisingly not much more, for a crane the size your looking at. The place that does mine price according to the tonne/meter size of the crane, trying to think how much it said on his price chart for smaller size cranes...think it was about £100-115.

Don't tell you loler man that! part of the test is stability in all working positions.

I done the ground work for a car park in a playing field for the community council a few years back, who wanted this mesh. I cant remember this exact spec but it was some thing like, excavate the area, lay edgings, 150mm hard core compacted, 80mm clean stone for drainage. Then the firm who supplied the mesh came to finish the installation, laying terram, screeding sand across the area, laying the mesh tiles, and topping off with screened top soil and seeding. The lads who where laying the tiles, said the edgings where quite important to hold the mesh in place, as they layed them tight side to side, between them. I would hazard a guess not so important in a domestic situation, using it yourself. The grass grew, very slowly in my opinion, and seemed to yellow a bit in summer, maybe too free draining? I don't pass there often, but it still seems to be there and not muddy and rutted in winter.

how much payload would the defender have as a chassis cab? I think you would need a crane around the 8tm mark to comfortably lift 1 ton at 6m reach. A crane of that size would be just under a ton dry weight, +60 odd litres of hydraulic oil, then the subframe to mount it on. The other point to consider the stability when it comes to loler testing having quite a light base vehicle.

http://www.iveco.com/uk/collections/technical_sheets/Documents/New_Daily/Chassis_cab/N.Daily%2035C15,17,21%20Chassis.Cab.pdf The Iveco info for a chassis cab shows a kerb weight depending on wheel base of between 1895kg - 1935kg.

When I was looking at getting a tipper a while back. Nugent would of been my choice. Seemed to be made more like the older (better?) Ifor Williams. I didn't got one in the end, just a change of circumstances, defiantly will consider them for next trailer.

I you decide to go down a stick welding route (MMA or SMAW), and buying equipment, from my experience from having a relatively poor mains power supply here, is to buy an inverter welder rather than a tradition type welder, oil or air cooled. When we both an air cooler and oil cooled set using it after dusk, it would cause the lights to dip and flicker in the house, with the current inverter type you could weld with no problems at the same amperage.