Craig.
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Everything posted by Craig.
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The original article I read said about local demand to the refinery's for red diesel dictated whether they made red or just added the dye to road fuel. I read it as both types of red are low sulphur, but the dyed road fuel will have some bio fuel content, where as the other red has no legal requirement to include bio fuel content. I must admit I`ve not asked my supplier what grade they supply, the article says dyed road fuel makes about 25% of total red fuel produced. Agree with you about the lubrication of the low sulphur fuel, and I add a small amount of mineral 2 stroke oil, while refuelling, and had positive results of doing so. Got a mf135 which did not tick over smoothly until I started adding lube, with the lobe tick over is smooth, if I have forgot to add some, the poor tick over will eventually reappear.
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I read about the two grades of red diesel in classic tractor magazine, I think. A quick search I found this http://www.smmt.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/Changes-Spec-NR-Gas-Oil-261110.pdf seems to say similar things to the magazine article about 2 types of red diesel.
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I remember reading about two grades of red diesel, depending on the demand at the time, in high demand the refinery would make `red` diesel, a slightly lower grade of fuel allowed under some british/un/eu standard, and in low demand time, road white diesel, just has red dye added (plus anything else needed to make `red`?).
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I`ve not heard that one my self, but I know you can not get alloy ad-blue tanks due to corrosion, sorry for the derail! Taking shape Ian, does the exhaust your swopping from one side of cab to the other have a larger bore pipe on the bottom of the stack than the pipe going into it by a fair bit, in the original unimog style? if its a normal fit it makes a lot of difference, in terms of noise and vibration in the cab (for the worse).
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I was told that Ifor Williams in Corwen/Deeside couldn't under cut their dealers, so only sell at the rrp or a set% off, where as a local dealer could sell at a loss if they wanted, Don't know how true that is, but I know people who go to Staffordshire to buy their trailers when Corwen only being a couple of villages away, is the most local to them, as they get a lot better deal.
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There was some one in the employment section before Christmas asking for pts climbers Liverpool/ Chester area. Don't know how to link threads but if you put chester in the search it will come up within the first half page.
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Sounds like a blockage some where, try easy stuff first, remove exhaust and try to see if it improves, and try removing bottom of air filter bowl or air pipe to manifold to see for improvement,
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Can`t comment on the stihl front, but you wont go far wrong with a 346 husquarna
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The first thing that jumps out to me about that machine is, it looks like the boom has been repaired. I'd be looking at the quality of the repair very carefully, and more importantly what caused it in the first place.
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My 372 was originally supplied on a 15" bar and chain set up, from memory it was a option from the catalogue in the choice of 3 bar sizes recommended for it.
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Driver CPC, I would guess they meant.
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Engine 1800rpm to give 540rpm on shaft, engine 3.33 turns to 1 turn of shaft, (1800 divide by 540) 350 x 3.33 = 1165.5 1165.5 rpm = smidge under 1200rpm:thumbup:
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About 1200 rpm or a smidge under in low range PTO, will be about 350rpm on shaft.
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If I`m reading that right the atv is 15 years old, and done 1800 hours? 15 years = 180 months 1800hrs = 10 hours month = 2.5 hrs a week In my opinion that quite low hours, if the condition is good to reflect the hour you should be OK, you want to be looking at age related problems as much as mechanical defects, corrosion on the frame, perished hoses, pipes, bushes, seals, and such like.
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It depends if the course has been registered and approved with JAUPT to count for dcpc. I done hiab refresher course a couple of months back, asked the training provider about the cpc bit, he said the cost to have the course approved, and paying jaupt to run the course, would make it too expensive.
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Putting additives in the fuel is usually only effective if added before you have problems with waxing, they wont normally fix fuel that is already waxed. You could try lagging the filter bowl, or lines if they are in a draft off the engine fan.
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As breezeblock says I think greenmech do the cs100 as pto driven. Mount that on the trailer and use a longer pto shaft to power, or get a wide angle pto shaft to allow use on a larger range of tractor to trailer angles. Still only one power connection needed, I would think a compact tractor would struggle with hydraulic output to run a motor to run a chipper.
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I drove one, and it have a display on the dash, like a graph to show the dpf condition, has yours got the same? and does it show it as blocked? Sorry if your all ready said.
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Are you spraying it on? if so avoid getting overspray on the discs and pads, if you can get a bit of pipe on the end of the nozzle so you can direct the spray into the little holes on the chassis to do inside the chassis, and into cross members etc. If you can take the plastic liners out of the wings, it will make it easier to get to it, and get to other parts like metal brake pipes and so on. Again if spraying it on try and use a dust sheet to cover the upper body if your bothered about getting the wax over spray on, at the least put news paper on the wind screen.
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I think there is a 10 year warranty on them now.
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A lot of site`s are wanting hauliers delivering to them to be FORS http://www.fors-online.org.uk registered, one of the requirements is the warning signs for bikes, hence seeing a lot more of them, plus I guess a lot fitting them off there own back due to the increase in accidents with bikes.
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Anyone between Taunton and Corby run a 12 ton+ beavertail?
Craig. replied to john p's topic in General chat
Looking at the spinney thing on the windscreen, possibly a snow blower, or plough? -
Tarmac put down properly will be robust enough for you.
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I've got what seems to be an older version of the radio in your link, been ok, its got seals on the battery door to stop dust getting in. If your looking to keep it for a while, it might be worth getting a FM/DAB radio, because I believe the is talk of starting to turn off fm transmissions in a few years time, a bit like the digital tv switch over.
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Use both the same myself. I find the graph on the yr app handy, for a quick at a glance forcast.
