spudulike

No problem, glad it worked out, always good when it saves time and expense. Just pass on a helping hand to others when you can as a "thank you". Thanks for letting us know.

Pull the plug, turn it upside down and pull it over hard to clear the fuel in the bottom of the crankcase. Ensure the ignition is off!!! I would suspect that you are getting the piston locking due to fuel entering the engine top end. If there is no fuel in the engine, the compression will be down to fuel in the cylinder drying leaving old oil in it making for excessive compression. This can be cleared by taking the plug out and using WD40 in the cylinder, pulling it over a few times then clearing it by pulling the engine over hard when upside down. It will be one of the two!!

I have had similar in giving a diagnosis to a saw issue over the phone. They piss off in to the distance and have left me with parts on the shelf before now after promising to send it in...bloody frustrating!!

Yes but I get called by you arb types at all sort of times even bank holidays, late at night and Sundays so it isn't just your general public types!!!

Thanks, glad I am not losing it. I did have a 550 like this once. The bit of the cover that houses the latch was just not close enough to the guard not meshing well and couldn't work out if the cover had somehow bent which seemed unlikely. I sorted the issue by removing a little metal from the top of the covers mount area thus moving the top part of the cover closer to mesh with the guard latch which it did and operated correctly after I did this. A strange one but what I did, however unorthodox, worked.

I thought the 560 chain brake wasn't the quadrant type as found on the 346, 357 and many of the 3 series saws. The ones I have seen have had a stainless latch on the chain brake guard that slides in to the brake cover...a completely different mechanism!

And where do you work My old company was always 3-6 months behind on their new releases...not uncommon!!

I have a Stovax Riva. It is lined with firebricks so can't see the steel walls. We replaced the secondary baffle as it rusted after a pile of soot rested on it we didn't find and it overheated a tad - circa 10 years use. I made a replacement and it has rusted but has lasted for a fair few years. The primary baffle went through after some 15 years and fitted a new stainless one which looks and works well. These items do rust, logs will contain a little water and when you burn logs, that and a bit of water will corrode steel parts, same as your car exhaust rots through. I guess a lot depends on the thickness of those fire parts that are rusting. If they are say 3mm+thick, I wouldn't worry but if they are much thinner then more concern should be shown and would expect fire bricks to line the firebox if the walls are thin gauge. There are a few fitters on this site who should be able to help further than us mere end users

All done and back with the customer. Annoyingly, the previous owner had put a screwdriver through the inlet manifold and that is an expensive part with aftermarket parts being pretty crap so a new OEM part fitted and a new crankshaft seal as the original was leaking. All should be good now but always sort out any annoying issues in a reasonable way if the first pass didn't sort them and show up again with a bit of running.

Looks like light surface rust. Steel and Iron does that, just the surface oxidizing. Don't worry about it, it will do that but not an issue.

No, Front Side Bus....computing term and of major importance to overclockers!!

As above but the wider kerf being cut with the 1.5 chain will sap more power from the 450 than the 1.3 so expect the performance to be slower. A full chisel will take more power than a semi. If you have the B&C, try the 450 on the 346 cutting gear and see what it is like. All the B&Cs should be 0.325" pitch.

You could try a standard "Treasure Hunters" metal detector. There are older ones on eBay for around £30 and they will go down to a good depth if it is a decent brand like C Scope, Garret etc 6" - 8" detecting depth is quite possible on a nail, especially after it has been in wood a long time as the nail rusts, putting salts in to the area around the nail making a better target.

Yes, thanks for the info. Bit baffled as to why a carb should stop working when the engine got hot but as long as it is sorted, all is good.

I can't see any reason why bare metal isn't OK on the inside of the crankcase. As long as there is no loose paint then it should be OK in my opinion.

If it still plays up, check the tappets and also the gauze strainer, just done two more of these. One seemed to have low compression and the tappets were a bit tight. Backing them off restored the compression. The gauze strainers were also a bit grotty - remember to flush the tank out if you find chip in the strainer. Hope it is sorted though!

Bugger all I would say

It would be expensive..... Flywheel With Magnetic ring on the back) Generator Wiring loom Top handle Rear handle Pads Switch It is dooable, just damn expensive!

They are very collectible. I recently sold both of mine as I am having a significant clear out. They sell pretty easily and helped if they are runners.

No, I will sort it

Yes, a glance at the bottom of the oil tank proves that. Simple fix to the leak is to degrease the central foot bit of the oil tank and bond some thin metal to the case with JB weld which seals the oil tank and makes a stronger foot. Much cheaper and easier than replacing the crank cases!!

I have been in the saw today. The main issues that have caused the running issues: - 1) Impulse line off 2) Accelerator pump significantly worn 3) The cylinder has seized at some stage but only lightly. The transfer has pushed the piston toward the back of the bore and it has worn the plating off. I am thinking this rather than ingress of chip through the inlet port as is more common. Other issues - The bottom of the oil tank has worn from the outside bottom where the saw has been stood on concrete and now leaks. One of the muffler screws is M6. Clutch cover is pretty shot but am already waiting 2.5 months for 2 on order. Brake band worn. A few other bits and pieces.

All day long and every day forever. You won't be thanking yourself for saving £30 when that saw kicks back and cuts through your forehead. Some of these Chinese parts are crap, the early MS200T manifolds I purchased went straight in the bin and now stick to the OEM part, the AV mounts are like plastic and shear from the metal mounting plate and I avoid anything to do with brake bands and chain brake parts.

Tell you what......come back once you have been inside the thing and waggled your multimeter at it and the flashing red lights on the battery are pissing you off There are lots of ribbon cables in these electric tools and hell knows what they all do!!

Yes, 266 and is a 1982 model so only 39 years old. Guess who has one of those green 181SEs......they do pull pretty hard in the cut....mildly fettled!!