spudulike

Introduced 1977 but not sure of the discontinuation date, must be mid 80s. http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/5f352eae1aecdc9288256ba20048eb6b?OpenDocument

How about a pic of the saw and the serial...it may speak a thousand words!

What sort of saw is that? It cant have been manufactured in the last 30 years or so!

Drill the broken stud and use an easy out to remove them, just make sure it is a decent drill and a decent quality stud remover as some are pretty mediocre by anyones standards. The biggest issue is if the drill wanders in to the softer alloy as that will be bad news. I have seen snapped ones on 395/390 top cover but not the recoil cover.

You need to pull out the pump and clean, it is a small cylindrical affair and pulls out from the bottom. Easy once you have done a number of them!

Sorry ADW, I used to own a 345 and have done a fair few 350s so know this range well. It was the 245 thing that threw me and thought I would leave it to you

Ah, 345, the common places to get air leaks are the base of the top cylinder where it meets the engineered plastic lower crankcase cradle, the inlet manifold can split around the impulse nipple connector on the inlet manifold or the impulse line can come off where it joins the manifold clamp or the plastic plate the carb screws in to. If the air leak was pretty fast in happening, it is likely to be the impulse connector or possibly the manifold but if it was much slower in happening, the cylinder base is more likely.

It is this one and got it from this place, best price I could get it for on the day. Happy with it but cant say I regularly use it - wash the car and clean the drive/patio in the spring sort of use! Nilfisk Excellent E145 Pressure Washer - Easter Sales - CleanStore WWW.CLEANSTORE.CO.UK Nilfisk Excellent E145 Pressure Washer Power, Efficiency & Reliability The Nilfisk Excellent E145 model is a highly mobile, user-friendly pressure washer in Nilfisk's Excellent...

ADW may have a bit of info on the saw type and likely areas to look at. Probably easier than doing a full vac and pressure leak test. He is probably busy with his Downton Abbey box set on a Sunday night

And calm......hopefully you can cut some wood now

So, the choke mechanism is in the RUNNING position and the throttle linkage is resting on the idle screw conical part around 1/2 way up....as ADW asked. If it is doing this and then either the L screw is set a bit lean, you have a partial blockage in the fuel system just giving enough fuel for the saw to run or you have an air leak. If you can wind the idle screw right out and the saw is still racing, the saw has an air leak and if you can wind the L screw all the way in and the saw still runs, you have an air leak.

Bet he was on the dance floor every time Shalamar came on

Then all should be good unless there is a manufacturing issue that we are not aware off! Did you change the pinion?

I mean the drum will pull in and out on the crankshaft which is normal but wear in the shaft or bearing will allow the drum to wobble on the crankshaft like if you put a ball bearing under the centre of a dinner plate.....well how else do I explain what I mean It will....wobble!

Things like this always look great but in everyday situations, offer very little. I would rather do it once, slowly, bit of grease on the tap (or tallow for the old school toolmakers) .....get it straight and right rather than crashing through it and as Alec said....no good for blind holes!

There should be a bit of end float on the drum but it looks like you also have a bit of play in the bearing as when the drum is pushed in, you seem to have more clutch protruding on one side than the other. Check the state of the pinion where it contacts the drum.

I think you may have diagnosed the fault.....try another spark plug!

I wasn't hinting but good call on a donation, hope someone takes it and gives it a good home.

I paid around £50 each for my 80 & 100cc old bangers so nope, not worth much at all but the enjoyment is getting an old saw like this, up and running as it should. My theory is old saws should be owned by people that can maintain them as work tends to take longer than on modern saws - points are fun, multimeter, and timing wheel is best as long as you have the correct ignition timing figure although the old macs had timing marks you can also use!

I would say you have one of two issues, either the piston has been nipped up - taking off the muffler and posting a pic will tell us straight away.... the piston should be smooth and grey with no score marks. The other issue may be fuel delivery - first thing to do is get a new fuel filter on the fuel line and then try the saw again. If it plays up, try giving the H screw 1/2 turn anticlockwise and see what effect it has. The saw will either go all boggy and struggle to rev out which is the normal effect or, which I suspect may happen, the saw will rev out as it should. Small saws often struggle to rev out when they are set lean, big saws over rev and start screaming...not always but often. If the 1/2 turn thing works, try turning it a bit more until the saw doesn't rev and then turn the H screw clockwise 1/4 turn at a time until the saw revs as it should but doesn't scream and has a slight "Burble" or "four stroking" as it is known when revved flat out. The other issue may be wood chip in the carb gauze strainer - typically under the alloy cover held on with a single large screw on most small saws - best to prize it out and look at it against bright light with a magnifying glass as you can get fine scum in the open areas that is hard to see. Pic "B" is a nipped or lightly seized piston and what you don't want to see - it typically happens on the hottest exhaust side of the cylinder so removing the muffler is usually the first thing to do.

There are unlikely to be any issues under this diaphragm on a 2 year old machine. More likely to be fine chip in the gauze strainer under the cover on the other side or on older machines, perforated pump flaps on the pump diaphragm. You don't mention what the issue is - always a good starting point. My advice, leave that diaphragm where it is for now unless you are replacing it but it looks OK.

From what I remember, these saws have a CAT and these take time to warm up before use. If it isn't playing ball, you can try a carb retune and richening the H&L screws may help. On an older one I would mod the muffler to bypass the CAT but on a spanking new machine....it should work so back to the dealer!

Difficult to see what will happen without pics but if his tree falls on to your property and causes damages then you can claim from his house insurance. The other responses sound like they think the tree is on your side and the law states that any overhanging branches and roots going across the boundary can be cut back by the neighbor to the boundary but if they kill the tree, you can sue for damages. In your case, if his tree falls either through his actions or through other reasons, you can sue the owner for damages to your property.

I tend to take a blown up one apart and see what can be done rather than strip a near new machine down and go down that option.

He said it was from the farm, I said had it been stored in the slurry pit! All cleaned and running......unlike another one that came in from another in a similar condition and was seized, most parts were knackered including the side cover so that is going back. Got to love them!